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Sealing brake lines

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Raccoonman View Drop Down

Joined: Dec/11/2016
Location: North Charlesto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raccoonman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2018 at 8:25am
If you have a hydraulic service business local to you, they can fabricate new lines for you copying the old ones. I have a Parker dealer close by and had a couple of lines done for my Jag, they worked perfectly. Not too expensive either.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Joined: Jan/27/2010
Location: los angeles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 1:09am
flaring tube is tricky and requires a lot of care. i have one of the cheapest-possible type designs, the two bar thing with half-notches, and a saddle type flare. the bars don't adequately clamp, the saddle flare cone is happy pressing at an angle, etc. and the plating gets pitted. even so i can flare tubes OK if i'm extremely careful.

for even good tools, the tubing needs to be cut perfectly square, and not a rolling blade type cutter, but a hacksaw with fine teeth, and filed perfectly square and flat. i de-burr the outer edge, "bevel" a few thousandths. i bevel the inside visibly but lightly with a hand 90 degree burr remover. and clean the tube after cutting. 

the shape of the tube determines the quality of the flare. you can't really overdo it, it's gotta be perfect. you're just pressure-deforming metal, and unevenness translates into distortion.

my crappy bar clamp bows, so i either put the whole thing in a vise or use a C-clamp. i do no flares under the car, it's just asking for trouble. its better anyway for a whole bunch of reasons to fit and test and fit and test and flare off the car, get it so the flare perfectly lands in the cone wthout any side torque or forcing. the nut should go on with two fingers.

if it needs a lot of torque to stop a leak there's a problem. my policy is to get it bent perfectly so the nut goes on with no effort with two fingers, then just *snug* it with the line, probably not enough torque.  brake cleaner and a rag get it dry and clean, then pressure test. if it seeps, snug a bit more. as billd points out, the two slightly different angles between flare and cone does the sealing. nicks or deformity will prevent it from sealing.

if the cones are bad that's the end of that. they have to be good or it will never seal right.

lol, i rarely flare my own lines any more, only for oddball stuff. i simply buy a bunch of pre-flared stock tube and connect with couplers. i've never had to use more than one coupler (even two seems kludgey). i use each bend as an opportunity to change the effective length. they look good when done, no big hoops or weirdness. i do end up with extra lines but they're on the shelf for the next job. it's just too inexpensive to buy pre-flared in a bunch of lengths and not deal with it. 

1961 roadster american
195.6 OHV, modded
T5z, 3.42:1 mustang axle
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