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Sandin vs. York and hose fitment

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Pdok View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2016 at 8:10am
A couple things.  Agreed on the hoses, but mine are only 40-years old...! So I've got another 10 years before I have to worry about it... kidding of course.

That part number from Advance Auto for the r134 expansion valve has this review:


1.0

This valve WILL NOT work on the Jeep AC

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from Wilmington, NC

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    Comments about Factory Air Expansion Valve:

    This is advertised to work with a Jeep as an OEM replacement. It will not. It does not have the equalizing tube.


    Also, Jeep Air has a few Sanden compressors with tube-o fittings on the back plate, some designed for CJ retrofit that might be close enough. With a York to Sanden adapter plate, you can probably make it work.  I'd call them.

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    White70JavelinSST View Drop Down
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2016 at 12:54pm
    Farna has a great response.

    I''l add that if it were mine I'd do the same thing as I did on the White70Javelin.

    I had brass flare fittings machined to become o-ring fittings and I made a male o-ring fitting from multiple layers of soft copper silver soldered together, sandblasted them and had them machined into an o-ring fitting. I attached these to the evap coil by silver solder. All the AC connections are o-ring now. NO LEAKS. It was tested at 150 psi with dry nitrogen for 8 months..

    Search for my posts on AC going into the White70.
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2016 at 1:43pm
    As to 134 vs R12, Freon became dear in Phoenix in the early 2000's so when I got around to dealing with my AMC A/C I just filled them with R 134 and forgot about them.
    Why
    Because a junker in Arizona isn't worth scrap value if the A/C isn't working and an A/C specialist I was working with at the time said it is no problem.
    So all I can say is that is all I have done. I have sold everything except my Spirit which was filled with 134 in 2002 and no problems over the last 11 years, the two cars I am putting on the road will be R134 when done. I see no reason at all to continue using Freon. R134 seems to work better than Freon when the temperature gets over 100 degrees.
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/10/2016 at 2:20pm
    Originally posted by White70JavelinSST White70JavelinSST wrote:

    Farna has a great response.

    I''l add that if it were mine I'd do the same thing as I did on the White70Javelin.

    I had brass flare fittings machined to become o-ring fittings and I made a male o-ring fitting from multiple layers of soft copper silver soldered together, sandblasted them and had them machined into an o-ring fitting. I attached these to the evap coil by silver solder. All the AC connections are o-ring now. NO LEAKS. It was tested at 150 psi with dry nitrogen for 8 months..

    Search for my posts on AC going into the White70.




    That is one post that covers alot, and IMO is done when your system needs more than just serviced, or is an upgrade.

    Ucljohn is correct about no reason to move to freon. Though freon does cool better but I think it is on how the system is routed and its function. Our newer Honda, you must mess with the auto climate every time you start A/C. Reasons are, automatic blend of external air with cabin air, and it does not kick in full until you jack up the cooling to max. Once it cools, then set auto to prefered temp. Our 2000 Solara cools perfectly in dry or humid conditions, in automatic mode. For the kicker... my old 1995 chevy van had manual temp A/C and was the coldest of the three.
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