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rheostat interior light switch, 74 AMX

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MartyB View Drop Down
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    Posted: Apr/24/2018 at 2:50pm
Anyone have a source for the small nylon gear that is fitted btw the 2 metal gears in the switch.  Who thought putting a nylon gear btw metal gears would last?!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2018 at 5:57am
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/american+motors,1974,amx,5.9l+360cid+v8,1293881,electrical-switch+&+relay,headlamp+switch,4472

I think AMC used the same headlight switches as a lot of the other guys so probably it will be cheap and easiest to just instal a new one. I still haven't figured out how to get mine out yet to do the swap but so far its not high on the priority list.
 




Edited by vinny - Apr/25/2018 at 6:04am
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pit crew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2018 at 9:26am
Originally posted by MartyB MartyB wrote:

Anyone have a source for the small nylon gear that is fitted btw the 2 metal gears in the switch.  Who thought putting a nylon gear btw metal gears would last?!
But then again most cars from that era were only expected to last four or five years.

Lack of lubrication and dirt bind up the switch and people just push harder until the nylon gear strips out.

There is no known source at this time other than trying to score a used switch. In my experience they are very hard to come by but I did find one once where the rheostat was bad but the gear was still in good shape.

Since the frame is pot metal you can get it all apart but the bent over tabs break off in most cases.  I have had good luck using epoxy putting it back together. The most delicate part is the copper finger that is depressed for the courtesy lights. Be very careful of that sucker. Once bent it is real heck to get it back to the proper shape.

One option is to just add a little jumper wire to bypass the rheostat and run the dash lights at full bright.

If all else fails you can try a 73 switch which, if I remember correctly, was a three position switch which gives you three levels of brightness plus courtesy lighting. Not the most correct replacement but someone just looking at the dash would not know the difference and they are much easier to find.

P.S. Almost forgot. If you try the self repair option watch when putting things back together as there is a small tab of copper that supplies ground through the pot metal frame. You don't want to wind up insulating that with epoxy.


Edited by pit crew - Apr/25/2018 at 9:36am

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2018 at 10:32pm
As I recall (it's been over a year) mine has two levels of bright - sort of dim, and full bright, or interior lights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 7:57am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

As I recall (it's been over a year) mine has two levels of bright - sort of dim, and full bright, or interior lights.
Could be Bill. I was working from memory. What were we talking about? LOL

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 8:13am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

As I recall (it's been over a year) mine has two levels of bright - sort of dim, and full bright, or interior lights.


Yep, that is correct for 71 to 73... though there may be very late 73 builds with some 74 parts. Only 74 has the rheostat.

Any 71 to 73 dimmer switch will work as a replacement for 74. The only differences that i know of between 71/72 and 73/74 on the panel switches connections are for thé wiper switch, you can only mix between 71 and 72 only, or 73 and 74 only between the wiper motor switches. All other panel switches are pinned out the same for compatibility with swap out replacements.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrblatzman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 8:54am
I have one of the 74 only interior light rheostat type switches NOS...From memory it had some problem though...The gear part was good but it needed help moving when all the way forward or something like that...been a while...I would take $20 plus 8.50 postage if you think that might help your car...Bob in Alabama
Thankyou....Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2018 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

As I recall (it's been over a year) mine has two levels of bright - sort of dim, and full bright, or interior lights.
Could be Bill. I was working from memory. What were we talking about? LOL


Glove box lights, I think..........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dltowers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 4:12pm
"One Year Only"....


Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track.
G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2019 at 4:15pm
Purchased a non-rheostat light switch to replace the broken one in a 74 Javelin (from a vendor who said it checked good).  It had the same connections as the rheostat switch so I just plugged it in. Had other wiring problems so the battery was always unhooked at the finish of work and doors were open when battery was hooked up.  Anyway, after everything was 'finished', noticed that the interior lights and dome light will not turn off!  Removed the door switches and cleaned them up but the lights remain on at all times (no matter what position the interior light switch is set to).  The panel lights work as they should (turn on when the headlight switch is on) and the trunk light will turn on and off.  Map light also will turn on and off.  I even completely unhooked the door switch and it had no effect on the courtesy or dome lights.  Any sugestions?
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