Replacing timing chain on 196 cast iron engine

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   1962 Rambler Cross country wagon  6Cy 

Getting ready to pull the timing chain cover as I have a tapping noise that seems to be coming from the timing chain area. I has some questions if someone can help or lead me to a web site that tell me how to do this. I can do it without, but like to see or read how it is done as it helps avoid mistakes. 
Ordering new parts, is the chain for the cast iron motor different then the aluminum:
Should I change the sprockets at the same time?
What seals and gaskets will I likely need to replace, no current leaks. 

If this is not the issue, I plan to pull the whole motor to do the lower end. But the taping sounds like the chain flapping inside, we used a roller tube to see where the noise was coming from. I can't get the car into my buddy garage to pull the motors until after hot august nights, so I have some time to check if this is the issue as I can do this part at home. Already checked the lifters. 

Any help, advice or directions to videos would be great.

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PolarBear Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/16/2016 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 59	Post Options Post Reply Quote PolarBear Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Replacing timing chain on 196 cast iron engine Posted: Jul/22/2017 at 12:40am
	1962 Rambler Cross country wagon 6Cy Getting ready to pull the timing chain cover as I have a tapping noise that seems to be coming from the timing chain area. I has some questions if someone can help or lead me to a web site that tell me how to do this. I can do it without, but like to see or read how it is done as it helps avoid mistakes. Ordering new parts, is the chain for the cast iron motor different then the aluminum: Should I change the sprockets at the same time? What seals and gaskets will I likely need to replace, no current leaks. If this is not the issue, I plan to pull the whole motor to do the lower end. But the taping sounds like the chain flapping inside, we used a roller tube to see where the noise was coming from. I can't get the car into my buddy garage to pull the motors until after hot august nights, so I have some time to check if this is the issue as I can do this part at home. Already checked the lifters. Any help, advice or directions to videos would be great.

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9057	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/22/2017 at 10:29am
	Tips: check the harmonic balancer to see that it or and front pulley on it is tight. A loose pulley can produce a clacking sound. When pulling the balancer use a balancer puller and not a two or three jaw puller. Those old balancer are relatively fragile and the outer ring can break off. You might have to buy a complete gasket set to get the proper timing cover gasket, front seal and that balancer center seal. I think Best Gaskets bought the license and dies from Felpro, but Best is a good brand. I do not know if the timing chain is available without the gears. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

nickleone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/04/2008 Location: westminster co Status: Offline Points: 1438	Post Options Post Reply Quote nickleone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/22/2017 at 12:05pm
	The aluminum engine chain is different. There are bolt holes in the balancer which helps remove it. You need a technical service manual TSM to do the timing chain etc. Even with one it took us 3 tries to get the chain right. The Rambler is not CHEVY easy. Nick
	nick 401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold 390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold 1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19672	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2017 at 1:11pm
	I'd change both gears -- crank and cam -- but you can usually get by without changing the crank gear. Change it now and you will never have t be concerned with it though. Only one timing cover gasket, which can be replaced with RTV. There is a seal where the crank goes through also. One thing you might miss is the oil slinger. It's a concave washer that goes over the crank between gear and timing cover. The concave side goes over the back of the seal. It's purpose is to stop most oil before it reaches the seal and sling it back into the cover. There are dots on the gears that need to be lined up with each other, just like most motors. Since the cam turns two revolutions for one of the crank, you can be 180 degrees out. No big problem, just reposition distributor.
	Frank Swygert

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7539	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/23/2017 at 8:06pm
	i'd would buy a full 'timing chain set' and replace it all. what if the chain and teeth on the replacement is slightly different from what's in there? i've learned the hard way to not assume anything in these motors, they're just too old and too many people were in there in the last half a century messing around. isn't it one of those 'X chain links between dots'? TSM don't lie.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19672	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/24/2017 at 6:02am
	The TSM has both -- marked teeth across from each other, check by aligning the crank gear mark (dot) where the chain just starts to mesh with the gear (about 1 o'clock), then count back 19 pins (9.5 links) back up to the mark on the cam gear. I've never done the check... the gears are marked and that's always worked. I guess you could get a tooth off if not careful and the check will verify, or maybe a mismarked gear?
	Frank Swygert

vinny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837	Post Options Post Reply Quote vinny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/24/2017 at 6:37am
	Like pacerman says you will probably have to buy the complete set because the parts have changed and are no longer compatible. I can't remember where I got mine from but had some difficulty in finding it.

PolarBear Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/16/2016 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 59	Post Options Post Reply Quote PolarBear Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/25/2017 at 11:54pm
	Got it all taken apart. Chain is loose and the balancer had a crack around the wheel part. This issue I had taking it apart was that the balance is two piece. The core comes out of the wheel part, you have to use bolt to screw in to back it off. Puller wont work on this. Problem I have now is finding a new one like the part I took out, or replacing with new design. with new design I can get the balancer but not the parts that pull it together, shop manual has photo with new model but does not name the parts. Sent email to blazer and a couple other major AMC parts place, no response so far. Cant figure out how to add photo of what I need. Any one will good idea email me at kadellr45@gmail.com Thanks

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7539	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 1:09am
	not sure what your problem is? the harmonic balancer fell apart? that seems to happen on these engines. you can buy rebuilt ones -- they cast in new rubber. as to how to get the old one off -- the grooved outer portion falls off. i wouldn't use a puller that grips the the pulley groove even if it was good/new -- it will stress the rubber joint. the center ("core"?) has the big hole for the bolt and seal, but there should also be two 5/16-20 tapped holes for the optional accessory drive pulley. you can either pull from there, or make a "puller" that's just a flat piece of steel with holes for those two holes. thread the big bolt into the crank nose, minus all it's washer and seal stack, in about 3, 4 threads for something to push on, and use two 5/16" bolts to pull the core off by pushing on the head of the big bolt. the good news is that the harmonic balancer is just a slip fit onto the crank nose -- it's not tapered. it's all gummed up with old goo and sealant, but the half-fast puller will break that loose, should be all you need (as the strap "puller" has a very limited pull range). lots of pics of my 195.6 OHV being assembled in 2010 here: http://195.6ohv.com/2010-build/index.html
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

rocklandrambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: Nanuet, NY Status: Offline Points: 3953	Post Options Post Reply Quote rocklandrambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 3:12am
	www.kanter.com should have what you need. They have an on-line catalog.
	Past AMC's 1974 Hornet X (new) 1975 Gremlin X (new) 1964 Classic 660 Cross Country 1965 American 440-H