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replacement bushing for Z bar |
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1970390amx 
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Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
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 Posted: Jul/19/2017 at 12:55am |
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Mine is only mocked up but the end of the bell crank goes into the bracket far enough that you cant see the plastic bushing. The bell crank I have is 8 1/4 inches long from ball end to ball end.
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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
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kenoshakicker
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Joined: Feb/14/2015 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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Posted: Jul/24/2017 at 8:06pm |
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I ordered two each of the 1/2" and 1" bronze bushings from Aircraft Spruce ,shown in a previous post. The cup on the bell housing bracket measures about 1 3/4" deep so I cut the extra 1" bushings flange end off at about 3/4". I need a lathe. I inserted 2 thin copper washers,the short piece of bushing and then the complete bushing. I did this because I did not like that if the ball end moved in too far inward it would drop off the edge of the bushing. This way there is no drop off, only bronze the whole way inside the cup. I also drilled two more holes in the bell housing bracket to move it about 1/2" closer to the strut rod side. In the photo I posted earlier it shows that the ball in not very far inside the bracket cup. The ball measures about 1/2" long and about 1/2" of the shaft is inside the cup. If this is too short I will make a slot out of the two holes allowing for fine tuning of the length. My bell crank is also 8 1/4 inches long from ball end to ball end. Good idea or bad idea? Any thoughts? On the strut rod end I used a 1/2" bushing. I should have had another 1" bushing and cut it down a little because if the z bar moves toward the frame the ball end can fall out of the bushing. This is really no different than the factory set up with the nylon bushing. My factory bushing had the end completely worn which allowed the ball to be moving on nothing. To stop excessive movement towards the frame I installed a piece of heavy vinyl between the frame and the end of the z bar. Good idea or bad idea? Any thoughts? The strut rod end clip is toast. I have a very well fitting cotter key in its place. I thought about drilling a small hole where the factory clip rests and inserting a cotter key or pin. Has anyone ever purchased a bell crank retainer clip from amc-performance dot com? He has them listed for 68-69 AMX and Javelins. I emailed them and he said they seem to fit just fine on 1973 Javelins. At $30 a piece plus shipping I would like to know if someone has used them on a 71-74 Javelin, with success, before I shell out that kind of money for a small piece of metal. Should the bell crank to throw out lever rod be parallel to the frame or can it be a little canted? Thanks.   Edited by kenoshakicker - Jul/25/2017 at 4:18pm |
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Scene One
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Joined: Jan/13/2014 Location: Friedens Pa. Status: Offline Points: 699 |
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Posted: Jul/25/2017 at 2:09pm |
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Kicker, I am following your work on this thread because I will be moving on to my clutch linkage very soon. Keep me informed of your results and any tips you may have.
Thanks in advance BP. |
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White70JavelinSST
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Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4867 |
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Posted: Jul/25/2017 at 5:02pm |
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I've been driving the White 70 for over a year now with the oil-lite bronze flanged bushings installed. So far no problems. I really didn't have to modify anything like you are Kenosha. Except of course to tighten the one bushing up inside the housing, and I was lucky enough to have a use-able retainer clip.
Good luck with it all. I'll be watching as well, curious how your version turns out versus mine and I'm proud to see some one using my idea !  Edited by White70JavelinSST - Jul/26/2017 at 8:20am |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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kenoshakicker
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Posted: Jul/25/2017 at 5:49pm |
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The bronze bushings are the cat's pajamas. Thanks for posting them. Do not order online, they will mail the parts out via the USPS. The 4 bushings I got would have cost me around $15 to be shipped through UPS. The USPS is not an option with online orders. I also found an Aircraft Spruce promo code which, allegedly, would have given me a discount. I will try this the next time I order from them.
I am going to take the car off of the blocks in a little bit and take it for a ride tomorrow. I will then post the results.
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White70JavelinSST
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Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4867 |
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Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 8:23am |
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I believe I called them in as well Kenosha. Like stated in a previous post, how ridiculously cheap they are, four of them and shipping combined to a total of $6 bucks.
Good reminder for others who follow this thread and want to try it out though. I hope we get a positive report on your cruise today. |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Scene One
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Joined: Jan/13/2014 Location: Friedens Pa. Status: Offline Points: 699 |
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Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 10:33am |
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Just ordered mine today great tip!!!
Thanks Buster |
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kenoshakicker
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Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 6:56pm |
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I took the Javelin on the gauntlet run this afternoon. Other than needing to adjust the clutch, it works great. I noticed that the part of the bell crank the points downward, that the clutch rod attaches to, is slightly bent outward. This is what is causing the rod to be canted outward slightly. If I can find another bell crank and bell housing bracket I have a plan on making a new and improved version.
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scott
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Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Wildwood Pa. Status: Online Points: 3500 |
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Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 7:07pm |
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This setup makes a nice upgrade from the cheezy stock parts that wear out & fall off when the cotter pin gives up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cj5-Cj7-Cj8-72-85-Lower-Clutch-Rod-Adjuster-I-16919-08-16919-09-/371075446800?epid=1423308853&hash=item5665d1f810:g:ti0AAOSw7NNT~L0Q&vxp=mtr
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kenoshakicker
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Posted: Jul/26/2017 at 8:33pm |
I am putting this on my things to get list. Thanks.
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scott wrote: