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replacement bushing for Z bar

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pit crew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/16/2015 at 9:03am
Originally posted by White70JavelinSST White70JavelinSST wrote:

Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Oil-lite bronze would be better than brass.
Awesome tip pit crew, I'll look into that possibility, thanks.
One other option might be acetal. Back in the good old days when I had access to someone with a milling machine we used it to have him make window guide bushings for the big body Javelins. Acetal is stronger than nylon and slicker than teflon. I seem to remember it as a variation of delron. It might fit your need and be easier to machine than metal. I was able to buy it in sheets. I am not 100% anymore but I think the vendor was Industrial Plastics out of somewhere in California.



73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2015 at 2:25pm
Well, here's what I've come up with so far. The first picture has a trashed plastic bushing (on the left), then in the middle is a new bushing from AMARK. Then on the right side and in the plastic wrapper are flanged oilite bushings from Aircraft Spruce.

The center picture has the plastic bushing on the drivers end of the z bar.

The bottom picture shows the flanged oilite bushing  (5/8 ID x 3/4 OD X 1 flange diameter) (5/32 thick flange) on the z bar. 5/8 bushing would probably be OK, the end of this z bar was repaired by welding and hand filing to size by me, so it's not 100% perfect but it works. I put black magic marker on the ball to see where the interference was, exactly where I did the repair. The repaired ball is a bit oblonged.  It would be nice to have a NOS z bar to compare. Near as I can tell the original diameter of the "ball" is supposed to be about .615 to .625??  The inside of the plastic bushing measures roughly .645. The hole in the strut rod bracket is supposed to be 3/4 also, but it's hammered a tad bit too, so the bushing slops a little in that hole. I had to repair the hole by welding also, I guess I hand filed it a bit too oversize, otherwise the 3/4 OD of the bushing would be perfect, I suppose I can wrap it with shim stock and tap it in the hole.
Let me know what you think or can come up with for additional ideas.

Armand





Edited by White70JavelinSST - Feb/22/2023 at 8:00am
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2015 at 2:40pm
Aircraft Spruce has a pretty good selection of oilite bushings of the flange variety. The one I got had the thickest flange on it, that's why I chose it.

BTW, these things are ridiculously cheap too. These two bushings and two additional bushings, same size, just longer overall, cost about $6.00 to purchase and have them shipped to me.

The two in the picture are .74 cents each............


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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/07/2016 at 9:29am
I'm very happy to report that the weather was excellent yesterday which allowed me to work on the car again. I got the clutch linkage all back together with the oillite bushings installed on both ends of the z bar (bellcrank). See above posts for photos of the bushings. The bushing I installed in the support bracket is much longer than the busing installed in the strut rod bracket IIRC it is greater than one inch in overall length. The z bar has plenty of bushing to float back and forth with. I had to shim the bushing in the strut rod bracket to keep it from rotating in the strut rod bracket because that hole is hammered a bit oversize. The plastic bushings just don't last that long, maybe 6 to 8 thousand miles, and I lubed them. Anyway, I'm hoping the oillite flanged bushings will last much longer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2016 at 2:04pm
Bumping this post forward to help 83GT who is working this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/17/2017 at 6:46pm
How far is the ball, on the end of the z bar,  supposed to go into the bracket that is mounted on the bell housing?   When eyeing things up on mine, the ball only goes into the bracket about half way.  I am thinking about adding 1/2 inch to the open end of this bracket.  But first I will see if I have a transmission mount broken.


Edited by kenoshakicker - Jul/17/2017 at 8:41pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2017 at 9:05am
I can't tell you the exact measurement, because I would guess, that the ball moves sideways in and out of the bushings when the clutch pedal is depressed. There is a retainer clip on the strut rod bracket side of the Z bar that restricts the side to side movement.

The post above with the exploded view does mention that the bushings are about an inch in length.

I crawled under the car last evening to determine what length the bushings are, as you requested Kenoshakicker, but with the car on the ground it was too difficult to get my arms in there to move the rubber seals out of the way to check the bushing length. I think I measured the depth of the bushing holder mounted to the bellhousing and bought bushings according to that.

Hope this helps.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2017 at 6:18pm
Thanks, White70 for the info.  I ordered the bushings you have posted above.  I got one each of the  lengths listed for the OD and ID you have listed 1/2" and 1". 

Below is a photo which shows the location of the ball in relationship to the bell housing bracket.  The flange part of the outer bushing is still intact and in place when the photo was taken. Is this normal or is the ball too far from the bracket?  Thanks.




Edited by kenoshakicker - Jul/18/2017 at 6:22pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2017 at 7:16pm
The ball is to far from the bracket. Do you have a picture of the other end? If I remember correctly the strut rod end has the ball in the plastic bushing centered with the strut rod bracket. hope that made sense. The bell crank assy for a small body car is shorter than for a javelin. Are you sure yo have the right parts?
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenoshakicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2017 at 8:50pm
1970390AMX you are correct about the strut rod end bushing.  The center of mine is gone which allowed the rod to move towards the outside causing the z bar to fall.  This is a design flaw and a dangerous one at that.  I believe I have the correct z bar.  I will post a photo tomorrow.

How far does the ball go into the bell housing bracket? 

Also, I checked APD, Kennedy and AMarkAMc and could not find the steel clip that goes on the strut rod end of the z bar.  Is there another vendor who carries them?  I thought I saw these at Lowes.  Thanks for the help.
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