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Repairing a 401 that’s already .060 iver

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 4:25pm
Year of the block seems to matter also.
 I have a 71 I'm working on now that is bored 0.030" over and though I did not get a sheet, the shop was surprised as the 73 block I did last year had average 0.100" less material.
So the 71 block can go 0.090" over and still have more meat then the 73 at 0.060" over.
The 73 through 75 blocks I have worked on seem the same. I have not had a 72 block yet.
My opinion is that at the studs you need 0.300" minimum and everywhere else 0.250".

If I had the block, I would test and sleeve if possible. It really does not matter after the test to go standard bore on one cylinder or not. If 0.060" is the limit of the block, then make all the same. If you could do another bore to 0.090", then sleeve for the 0.090" bore and bore this time to 0.060".  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 4:32pm
Would anybody consider sleeving it back to 360 bore size, or possibly some intermediate size to facilitate a stroker combo with off the shelf parts, and building a stout 360 or other combo with provision for 4 bolt mains?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 5:02pm
71 Javelin AMX P-code Go pac 360/4spd/3.91's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramblage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 7:35pm
dang pretty interesting jpnjim. If shops charge 100 to sonic check I’m probably better off just buying my own which I just looked up there around 100 bucks and do build a lot of engines myself not just amc. Would definitely come in handy!
1959 Pattywagon Stock Rambler Custom
1960 Customized Rambler Super with Dodge 360 & 5spd
1971 Mellow yellow Javelin SST with 360
1972 Babydung Brown Dodge Dart Swinger 5.2 Magnum w/5spd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMoCoLite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

Would anybody consider sleeving it back to 360 bore size, or possibly some intermediate size to facilitate a stroker combo with off the shelf parts, and building a stout 360 or other combo with provision for 4 bolt mains?

I don’t know if it’s practical...but it seems like a pretty cool thought. Shocked
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 9:27pm
Cool, but also scary. 0.100" wall thickness - if the shop had told me that it would be scrap metal. 0.200" is what I was taught minimum for a cast block so i like the conservative 0.250".
They typically measure at piston ring top, mid and bottom of the stroke, not 5/8" down.

Have to do some math now, but if peak cylinder pressure is 22 to 27 degrees ATDC then 5/8" down must be close to middle from TDC to the top of the piston and seeing maximum cylinder pressure???
But have never seen a cylinder fail in that area???
Cracks at the head cap screws or near the bottom of the stroke from piston skirt wear seems common - other then throwing a rod.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 9:54pm
Originally posted by Ramblage Ramblage wrote:

dang pretty interesting jpnjim. If shops charge 100 to sonic check I’m probably better off just buying my own which I just looked up there around 100 bucks and do build a lot of engines myself not just amc. Would definitely come in handy!
Also most shops want to a the very least hot tank the block before they will sonic check it, so also figure on adding in this cost. I actually bought my own sonic checker and use brake clean on the cylinders for a quick and dirty evaluation. Here's what a through sonic check will look like and you really need to pay close attention to the thickness around the bolt holes.

Tom


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramblage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

Year of the block seems to matter also.
 I have a 71 I'm working on now that is bored 0.030" over and though I did not get a sheet, the shop was surprised as the 73 block I did last year had average 0.100" less material.
So the 71 block can go 0.090" over and still have more meat then the 73 at 0.060" over.
The 73 through 75 blocks I have worked on seem the same. I have not had a 72 block yet.
My opinion is that at the studs you need 0.300" minimum and everywhere else 0.250".

If I had the block, I would test and sleeve if possible. It really does not matter after the test to go standard bore on one cylinder or not. If 0.060" is the limit of the block, then make all the same. If you could do another bore to 0.090", then sleeve for the 0.090" bore and bore this time to 0.060".  

Not to sure on the year which I did look up the casting number on it (3198951) ranges from 71-78 and it’s just a bare block 
1959 Pattywagon Stock Rambler Custom
1960 Customized Rambler Super with Dodge 360 & 5spd
1971 Mellow yellow Javelin SST with 360
1972 Babydung Brown Dodge Dart Swinger 5.2 Magnum w/5spd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/15/2019 at 5:54am
$800 or so to sleeve it all back to original (or some other) bore. At that point figure out what pistons you want and go with whatever bore is most cost effective. Chevy pistons and rods? If you really want a 401 and can't find a closer to standard bore block (getting hard to do!) then sleeving all would be a good option. You'd probably pay $800+ for a good standard bore block, and sleeving done right is as good or better. Often the sleeves are stronger than the block. Or just build a stout 360.

The problem with the 0.060" overbore is that the engine will likely have heat related issues, especially if building for the street. You might get by with that on a drag car, but extended running will likely have issues. I wouldn't use it for a street build, would just get a 360 block and maybe use the 401 crank and rods for a stroker build. Four bolt mains aren't necessary, nor the thicker webs if you aren't going to be running it really hard all the time.

Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SC397 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/15/2019 at 9:31am

Thanks!
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