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Renewing valve seals with heads on.

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990V8 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 4:34pm
Galvins, on whom many blessings, are sending a set of replacement valve stem seals for my 327.
I want to fit them without removing the heads.
 
I intend holding up the valves by the indian rope trick, but how do I compress the valve springs?
What sort of tool do I need?
 
Ivor
63 Canadian Ambo 990 V8 327
74 LandRover Lightweight V8 SIII
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 5:15pm
I have used this one.  Your hands will be sore after you do 16 valves, but it is compact enough to get in tight places in the car.  Note, in a Spirit with a late model 401, not a 327 car like yours.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 5:16pm
With a stock single spring you should be able to use one like this Harbor Freight model: 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 6:38pm
We had shafts that bolted where the rocker arm shafts bolted and then levers that worked on the springs. We used air to hold the valves - adapters that plugged into the spark plug holes and used air from the compressor to hold the valves. 
I've done dozens of early and later AMC engines that way - I still have some of the tools we used to do that.

But Greayhounds_AMX suggestion may well work, too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattsGarage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 7:08pm
I use the air method also. Tha adapters that billd mentioned are usually available at napa. I noticed the other chain stores, at least in my area, stopped carrying them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 7:21pm
A tip - to make it easier, tap with a small hammer the retainers to help break the wedge bond that the keepers develop over time. Otherwise they may stick. It's especially a big deal if you use the lever type like I do - you press down on that lever to compress the spring and what happens is you push the whole thing down. So carefully tap the retainers to break that wedge bond with the keepers. It's the same sort of bond that ball joints and tie rod ends get because of the wedge shape. 
Don't hit TOO HARD or you can send the keepers flying out and have a bigger problem. I've seen a guy have trouble breaking the retainer loose from the two wedge shaped keepers and hit it hard enough it ended up launching parts. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 9:11pm
I switched to the rope trick. It works pretty much just as well as air to prevent the valves dropping into the cylinder, but:

1) You don't need to find/buy any special fittings
2) You don't need a compressor
3) You don't have to poop your pants during the explosive decompression that happens when you tap one of the valves with a rubber mallet to loosen the keeper
4) You don't blow out you Holley power valves during said decompression event

Once I was changing valve seals on my street/strip Javelin 258 using air to hold the valves, and had the carb off and some red shop towels stuffed down the gullet of the giant Clifford intake. To loosen the keeper I did what I would normally do on the bench, which is to take a big rubber mallet and smack the retainer. But when I did that the air in the cylinder exploded back up the intake with a sound like a shotgun and shot the red rags out of the intake at the same time. We though it was the end of the world - both of us needed new shorts. And to top it off my wife came down and chewed us out royally for making all that noise and waking the baby.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 9:22pm
Sorry but I'm still laughing like crazy. Uh, did you not use a regulator? LOL - if you used full pressure, wow. That many PSI on the head of a valve is a heck of a lot of bang when she opens up like with a mallet. I am trying to visualize that and I just keep laughing. 

Either way works fine - we always used air, I still use air - and break keepers loose first with a bit of a side smack. . 
The other thing to be aware of with air - if that piston isn't exactly on TDC or BDC - keep your hands away from the belts and fan when you connect the air!  Or have the darned thing in gear with the brake on if a stick. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 10:15pm
-pretty sure you can use a simple lever action tool like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25064?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ufsj4P34gIVWLbACh1H4gvFEAQYByABEgIa5PD_BwE



This tool is made to use on heads that have individual rocker arm studs like Chevy Gen1 or '66-'72 AMV8s where one would use the pre-existing rocker arm pivot and nut for the fulcrum point.

On '56-'67 RV8 heads, first take off the rocker shaft assembly. Then mount the tool onto the head using a bolt threaded into the one headbolt hole adjacent to each pair of valves. This way you should be able service two valve springs at a time.

I'd use another 'hardware store' type bolt, for the pivot bolt, not to booger up any hard to find RV8 head bolts.

-you may need to file/grind the pivot hole rearward so the forked end has enough reach onto the valve spring retainer (like all things 'universal' it might need some tinkering) ...or you may need to take the tool to a welder and have them extend the forked tip -just guessing

-you can clip on a pair of vice-grips, to extend the handle, to gain more leverage and control while holding the valve spring compressed

...yep; unstick the probably stuck spring retainer with a small ball peen hammer then squish the valve spring down, then use needlenose pliers to remove the 'locks'. Swap on your new valve seals, reassemble etc.

I like to use nylon rope, fed in through the spark plug hole: 'the rope trick'

I consistently get good results only torquing the rocker shaft headbolts to about 45 lbs -not to over-stretch the ancient/hard to find head bolts. (torque all other headbolts to 50 -same as Chevy Gen1 V8)


Edited by amcenthusiast - Jun/19/2019 at 10:33pm
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChillyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2019 at 5:24am
Plug your oil drain holes in case you fumble a valve stem lock.  Use something large and visible so you dont forget and leave the plug in place.  
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