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Removing Head from '68 232 |
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vinny 
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Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 487 |
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 Posted: Apr/05/2012 at 9:47am |
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You shouldn't need to replace head bolts. Just a waste of money IMO.
Are you taking the head in to have it redone?
I had a 196 head done years ago and they broached and reamed the guides. It seems to have worked quite well. |
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amc-rookie
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Joined: Jan/25/2009 Location: Schenectady NY Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Posted: Apr/05/2012 at 10:26am |
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Head is back from the valve job, and the shop also suggested the original bolts were good to re-use. They noted if they don't torque, they'll need to be replaced.
I would think stuff made in the '60's is better than stuff made today...  Dave |
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Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto
Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed |
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vinny
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Posted: Apr/05/2012 at 11:01am |
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You might want to clean up the threads in the block with a bottoming tap.
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amc-rookie
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Posted: Apr/05/2012 at 11:02pm |
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Anyone know the correct pushrod length for a 68 232?
Thanks, Dave |
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Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto
Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed |
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vinny
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 7:28am |
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I can get back to measure pushrods in about a week.
I found a replacement assembly but haven't had a chance to try it yet. Galvin's in California and Kanter's (NY?) sell replacement parts. |
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amc-rookie
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 8:44am |
Vinny, Thanks for the offer, but we're looking to assemble this weekend. I was looking for the length, to check the existing ones for wear. Dave |
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Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto
Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed |
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amc-rookie
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 9:54am |
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What about loc-tite on bolts? Head bolts, intake bolts, exhaust bolts, carb bolts???
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Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto
Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed |
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vinny
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 11:44am |
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No loc-tite required anywhere.
Some others might have suggestions on lubing the bolt threads. One of the front bolt holes may be drilled into the water pump cavity and may need sealant.
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KermitDRambler
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 11:57am |
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There is for sure a head bolt that needs a non-hardening sealant on it (The TSM says to use Permatex #2). I think it's the one in the front of the head on the manifold side. If you shine a flastlight in the waterpump cavity, you'll be able to see which on it is. The only other place where a dab of sealant is needed is on the rear main seal. I also use Permatex #2 on the water outlet gasket to make up for slightly warped outlets.
I don't recall the TSM saying to use any lubricant on the bolts but I don't have one in front of me.
As far as the pushrods go, you should be okay as long as they are straight. I rebuilt an engine that was run for a while with next to no oil pressure and while the rocker assembly and valve guides were badly worn, the pushrods were okay.
Matt
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1967 American wagon
http://www.mattsoldcars.com |
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tomj
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Posted: Apr/06/2012 at 8:53pm |
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All good advice here. I vaguely recall the "right front" head bolt, that penetrates into the water jacket, is *slightly* shorter then the others. I had a terrfying scare once when I started the engine after a routine head job and got a horrible noise -- simply the tip of that bolt fluttering against the water pump blades. No harm done.
This was a 1970 232, and this happened in 2004? So who knows, too-thin a washer under the headbolt? One oddball bolt? Thinner gasket? Slightly oversize water pump blade? I swapped the bolt, retorqued, no further problems. When cars get this old many variables creep in not factory-installed. |
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1963 American 440 hardtop
195.6 OHV, modded T-96 Twin Stick, 3.78 axle |
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vinny wrote: