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Topic Closedregluing window glass

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2010 at 10:20am
Searched quickly for some tips on re-gluing window glass.
Here's where we are:
1968 Javelin. Drivers door is the issue. Door is off car, window out, as well as window shoes. We have the aluminum bar kit to tie the shoes together. Tracks/channels cna be dropped.
Questions: Do we need to mount the door to accurately locate the glass in/on the shoes? If not, is it just glue the glass in, dry and assemble? We realize the door needs to be mounted to get the glass aligned with the roof rubber. Also, that kit seems to make the shoes thicker, does that cause a problem in use?
Thanks for the help!

Dave
Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto

Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2010 at 12:06pm

Below is what I have gotten over the years for gluing the channels back on. If you get them too far forward or back they will not bolt in the door right. Ask how I know, race car I did not have the measurements then.

I have the tie kit on my street car glass but have not installed the glass in the doors yet, will be some time yet. As said clean the tracks & rollers of ALL old grease & dirt. Also when gluing the make sure you space the glass in the channel side to side and should not sit on the bottom of channel or the glass will not go up to the roof seal.

 

Installed the glass sat, the dimensions I used should be good as I used the old glue lines as reference and the window fit great.
 
13 3/8" from the rear edge of glass to the front of the rear channel, then 26 1/8" to the rear of the front  channel, and ended up 12 11/16" between the two channels.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2010 at 12:20pm
You need to change from "last 6 months" to anytime, and use the advance search. There's a lot of threads on this, including some very lengthy threads with great detail
That tie is IMO paranoia insurance, as if everything it maintained and done correctly from time one, you won't have issues again - ESPECIALLY with the modern urethane adhesives used now.
Yeah, the old factory stuff let loose from time to time, especially if the grease got dry and hard and the owner kept using the window anyway. But with the modern materials, if it's done correctly (key words there, with clean being gospel) it's going to stay as long as you want it to.
You need to put the glass back how it came out............................FF has measurements that work, but ideally, you'll be able to measure using the "stains" and marks on the glass from the old materials.
CLEAN that glass - the last step JUST prior to assembly with urethane glass adhesive (about 12-13 bucks from any auto glass place) is to clean the glass AGAIN with acetone. Clean the channel in the glass "shoe" - again, last minute cleaning with acetone. DON'T touch the edge of the glass again after cleaning.
 
This is the key:
>> I used the old glue lines as reference and the window fit great<<
 
Yup - that's what I've done in every car (mostly Javelins) I've ever repaired windows in.
No need to mount the door - the factory sure didn't! The glass was glued into its supports before any car was ever put together. They didn't custom-assemble each door glass for a specific car - thus all the adjustments.
And you will go crazy with final adjustments - it can literally take minutes - or as in many cases, several HOURS to get it right.
My passanger side is perfect, the left is good but you can't roll the window clear up with the door closed (so plan ahead, or pull over and stop to roll the window up)
I don't have the patience for such adjustments, and it looks and seals fine with it up and the door closed, so i've never bothered..............
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2010 at 2:21pm
Alright, laid out the pieces and parts to get this together and have more questions than answers. I hate to be a PITA, but probably only want to do this once.
The glass, at the bottom is 42-1/16" long, rear shoe (to the point) is 13-1/8, the front shoe is 16-5/16; if the rear of the rear shoe and the front of the front shoe are tight to the ends of the glass, it leaves 12-5/8" between shoes. I guess that's close to 12-11/16". However, the 26-1/8" suggested front shoe dimension is more like 26. Sound logical? Metal extending past glass sounds bad, IMO.
Also, the front shoe appears to be lined with thin rubber, which centers the glass, the rear is missing this. Is this needed to keep glass centered? Seems like without it, the new adhesive needs to fill a larger gap. Adhesive on both sides of rubber, or just one?
Seems so easy, yet.... puzzling at the same time.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto

Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/10/2010 at 5:12pm

Yea channel past the end of glass is bad as I have never seen any like that.

So you are saying with the measurements given 1 of the channels are off the end of the glass? Do you have 1 side you can check for measurments?

As for the “rubber” what you may be seeing is the felt glue strips. This was wrapped around the glass and the channel pushed on till seated. This is what kept the glass centered & off the bottom of the channel. With it in place I don’t think you will be able to get the glass back in the channel.

 

When I did my drag car glass some one over the years had used some thing else that was rock hard. The glass shop told me to clean it all out before they glued the glass back in.

I found my 4” grinder with a knotted flat wire wheel would fit in the channel, I just ran it down 1 end to the other and it was like new. The shop did not center the glass or put some thing to keep the glass up a bit off the bottom. They did have measurements that I went with, at the time I had none, and when I installed the glass found they where not right. When I did my street car I used a tie bar kit I bought for this car and I marked the glass what channels went with what glass, and side went out and the ends of the glass where the channels went. They did center & blocked up the glass in the channels I just have not installed the glass to say how they fit.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2010 at 1:06pm
Should I re-use the felt, or get some new stuff? Without it, nothing accurately locates the glass in the pane (centered). It seems like too much gap for the urethane to hold.
Thanks,
Dave
Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto

Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2010 at 2:08pm
Urethane. Keep the glass centered with narrow strips of the original "tape".
The urethane will work just fine.
I put 3 strips of original tape - in the middle and one near each end.
That centered it in the bracket and kept the glass off the bottom as well. In other words, it set the glass right where it would have been factory. The urethane will setup and hold like crazy.
(It helps that I have a couple rolls of the original stuff here, well, one roll and a small part of another, left over from those years ago.)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2010 at 5:10pm

They say Popsicle sticks work good too and who doesn’t want a popsicle on a hot day Thumbs Up

Dave ----

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70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2010 at 6:33am
I thought it made sense to use pieces of the original to center.
Thanks!
We'll give this window repair thing a shot next!

Dave
Project (oh, heck yeah!) 1968 AMX #2789 was 290/auto

Son's car 1968 Javelin 6cyl/3 speed
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/16/2010 at 11:15am
I did this to my 68AMX about 7 years ago and the drivers window at that time was completely out of the track..I used 3M window weld adhesive after cleaning out all the old dried up factory sealant...removed and greased the rails and regulator and reisntalled the glass with tracks after it had cured...adjusted the gaps for a near perfect seal with the window rolled up..the seal is SUPER strong...still tight as a drum...I doubt I will ever have a problem again with the windows for as long as I own the car. I used magnetic strips cut to fit into the channels to adjsut the height of the glass as it sat in the channels and then filled the channels with the adhesive and set the glass. Worked like a charm...when you gut the channels you do remove the factory "lining" wich caused the glass to sit lower than originally but it isnt hard to make up the distance. if you dont the glass may have a gap when fully rolled up with the door shut.

Edited by 348AMX - May/09/2012 at 11:36pm
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