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recommended 5 speed gearing

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jpnjim View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/18/2017 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by BDCVG BDCVG wrote:

Just be careful of too low of a 5th gear. In My particular case 1980 rpm is 70 mph. My car pinged when accelerating up a steep enough hill so I had to modify My advance curve to avoid down-shifting. I now live in the hills of N.E.   P.A. and the .65 O/D is almost useless.

Yeah,
3.15's with ~25" tire, or 3.54's with ~27" tire will be a lot to pull with a super tall od like .65.

That's where it becomes a cruising only gear,
and you have to downshift for passing,
or have to speed up a little and maintain enough speed going up hill to remain in the engines power band.

I'm in the process of swapping 3.15's in my car (no OD)
after owning it for 27 years with 3.91's,
so everything is a compromise one way or the other. 
71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/18/2017 at 3:21pm
You guys really make it sound like I need to max out to 3.54 or look for deeper on my wagon.The op has 343/3spd/3.15s on 25" tires and wants to eviscerate the auto for a lightweight broad range manual. I'd say if he had 3.31s like I do in my Javelin, he'd be in that perfect sweet spot. I'll be going through my 304 later so I won't be able to chime in about power but it's a bit spooky. I've seen some gearing variations but they all seem more to do with engine torque curve and vehicle weight than anything else.

390/4spd/3.73s = Put a muzzle on that DOG!
304/3spd/3.31s = Lots of fun
258/3spd/2.72s = zips in short bursts but struggles to maintain on slight inclines
242/4spd/3.54s = Not too bad

With a mild MPFI 285/5spd/2.72s on stock 27.7" tires I have no idea what to expect for 4th and 5th gear. I assume 4th will hold for slight inclines unlike the warm 258 before it but up steep hills I'm going back to 3rd. 5th might hold on slight 1-4% grades on the freeway but they're rare and I live in a part of WA that is really flat. If I could do a 3.31 swap I would. I'm stuck between a 3.08/3.54 choice because I don't want to give up my low pinion Dana 30. The high pinion model doesn't offer any new range of gears though. Ermm
1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31

1983 American Limited
Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 232jav3sp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/18/2017 at 8:01pm
I used a gear ratio calculator to look at what my cruise rpm would be at 60mph using a .68 OD, 25" tires and various gear ratios.  I ended up choosing 3.31:1 as it gave me the best of both worlds with my 232.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 1:41am
You're fortunate to have that 3.31 ratio, it's so nice.These cars were optioned real nice. Right now I'm trying to address some of the really dumb cruising behaviors I had where there was a slow loss in speed up slight inclines at 70MPH even when punching the throttle all the way to the floor. My stock 2.72 ratio never did well with anything more than low strain and would viciously lunch parts of the 3spd automatic in protest.

Despite running +27 cubes with 2x torque and 1.5x hp up front, I'm worried about the same thing happening with my manual swap. One thing I keep dancing around but never figured out how to ask, how do I calculate the target cruise RPM for my engine HP/TQ+transmission+diff ratios? I know there has to be an exact science to this but what is it?
1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31

1983 American Limited
Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 6:10am
Right now my commuter ride is an '08 PT Cruiser. [Don't judge me...please.]

When the converter goes to lockup mode at 50-55 mph, the engine rpm drops by around 400. In OD, the car does 26 mph per 1000 rpm.

So 2000 rpm is about 52 mph. And 3000 rpm is right at 78 mph. And the car cruises well between 2000 and 3000 rpm, as if that's the "sweet spot" in the torque range.

I would say, based upon my experience, that the determining factor for YOUR car will be where the "sweet spot" in YOUR engine's torque range is, and then gear the trans and rear so that the way you drive [city or rural] the majority of the time is within that "sweet spot."

Not sure there's a "magic formula" without actually seeing the dyno numbers for the torque range of YOUR engine. And most of us don't dyno our engines.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 6:30am
That's a four cylinder though Buzz, it SHOULD run at higher rpm than a mid size V-8, though nowadays a 343 would be considered large. Anyway, 2000-2500 rpm is a good cruise speed for a V-8 or even in-line six. With most cams (including stock and good street performance) you want to maintain at least 2000 rpm cruising. Newer engines with electronic controls and good torque cams, and carefully geared trannys and axles, will cruise as low as 1500-1600 rpm and still be efficient, but that's with a lot of engineering. Keeping 2000-2500 rpm at low/high cruise speed is a good rule of thumb for the older V-8s and bigger long stroke I-6s (232 and larger).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 7:06am
I'm not sure what range the torque numbers would have to be for the 1800-2300 cruise range I'm thinking about but the estimate for now vs the abysmal junk that I had before this really stands out. I seriously want to get this thing on the dyno, mild cam and all. The power that screams out of this thing when I lightly blip the throttle is just ridiculous. Ouch

1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31

1983 American Limited
Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 7:47am
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

.

So 2000 rpm is about 52 mph. And 3000 rpm is right at 78 mph. And the car cruises well between 2000 and 3000 rpm, as if that's the "sweet spot" in the torque range.
My Fiesta ST is almost exactly the same stock (manual trans tho)
I would love to have a cruising gear that would let me drop a few hundred rpm at 80mph,
but even with the slightly taller tires I put on I'm still spinning 3100ish at 80.

It's a tiny 1.6L turbo (197hp) so it's happy spinning like that,
but there's plenty of power from 2-3k rpm & I would love to have a 7th gear that would use it.

Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

Not sure there's a "magic formula" without actually seeing the dyno numbers for the torque range of YOUR engine. And most of us don't dyno our engines.

^This is pretty much the key phrase

You're also limited by how wide the gear spread of your transmission is,
the T-10 in my AMC has the tall 2.23 first,
so the 3.91 rear was put there to make 1st gear work well,
spinning 4000rpms at 80 was more or less an unintended consequence.
71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 8:28am
I'm starting to think it doesn't really matter what I choose for tires because the end goal is to make use of my OD option. I just noticed that if I go to 3.54 gears, engaging OD is the same function as going from a 3.54 set straight back to 2.72! This means all this calculating and scrambling around that I've been doing to figure this out is pointless. I have to change to at least this 3.54 ratio or lower and since I can't go any lower, that's all there is to it. Pinch
1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31

1983 American Limited
Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 232jav3sp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2017 at 7:21pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

That's a four cylinder though Buzz, it SHOULD run at higher rpm than a mid size V-8, though nowadays a 343 would be considered large. Anyway, 2000-2500 rpm is a good cruise speed for a V-8 or even in-line six. With most cams (including stock and good street performance) you want to maintain at least 2000 rpm cruising. Newer engines with electronic controls and good torque cams, and carefully geared trannys and axles, will cruise as low as 1500-1600 rpm and still be efficient, but that's with a lot of engineering. Keeping 2000-2500 rpm at low/high cruise speed is a good rule of thumb for the older V-8s and bigger long stroke I-6s (232 and larger).

I would have to agree with that.  Especially when running a carb.  Still cannot drive the Javelin, but, the Rambler, with it's 232 that I hoped up and the BW T37 and 3.08 rear, turns around 2300 RPM at 60mph and is happy.
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