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Rear wheel wobble...

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Jan Phersson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jan Phersson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2019 at 11:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 5:33am
Some wheels don't provide clearance for the brake drum retaining screws.You can remove the screws so that the wheel will sit flat against the brake drum.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akimmet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 9:47am
You can just eliminate those small bolts, they are only there to keep the drum from falling off on the assembly line. These small bolts don't really serve any useful purpose anymore. Most aftermarket drums that exist for AMC cars don't even bother drilling holes for these bolts anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 10:20am
You can also used those push-on tin nuts, too....... I've seen enough wheels come off cars along the interstate - and drums slide enough to cause braking loss that I find a way to keep the retainers or replace them with the thin push on jobs. We did 24/7/365 towing with two wreckers - seen almost anything that can happen. IF it was to keep them on during assembly only - they'd use the cheaper push-on retainers and not drill the hubs and drums and install BOLTS. 
Assembly retainers are the thin, cheap, push-on things. 
They'd not waste resources drilling all those threaded holes, holes in drums, and create clearance for the bolt heads in their own wheels if it was for assembly only - they'd have saved over a buck a car on the tin push-on clips. 
When you've pulled in cars that have the drums still on vs. those that have had a drum slide off...... well, I keep the bolts or some sort of retainer personally. Like I say - have seen almost everything come on on the back end of a wrecker.
But it's your call and the "guesses" and majority are obviously against my logic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 11:32am
The studs go through the drum, and the wheel hold the drum on, why would I need to keep them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 11:47am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

You can also used those push-on tin nuts, too....... I've seen enough wheels come off cars along the interstate - and drums slide enough to cause braking loss that I find a way to keep the retainers or replace them with the thin push on jobs. We did 24/7/365 towing with two wreckers - seen almost anything that can happen. IF it was to keep them on during assembly only - they'd use the cheaper push-on retainers and not drill the hubs and drums and install BOLTS. 
Assembly retainers are the thin, cheap, push-on things. 
They'd not waste resources drilling all those threaded holes, holes in drums, and create clearance for the bolt heads in their own wheels if it was for assembly only - they'd have saved over a buck a car on the tin push-on clips. 
When you've pulled in cars that have the drums still on vs. those that have had a drum slide off...... well, I keep the bolts or some sort of retainer personally. Like I say - have seen almost everything come on on the back end of a wrecker.
But it's your call and the "guesses" and majority are obviously against my logic.


Some times I may not sound like I'm not following your logic, and it may seem so with others. Though, when looking at the mini lites back side, i could not tell if the wheel had enough clearance for the flat push on clips. In the past and my present wheel purchases, both wheel sets by different manufacturers allow for push on flat clips or the factory hex head fastener. Both sets of wheels were made for Ford OEM fit for separate older and newer generation cars from 2000 on up to 2015.

Anywho, I was going to state flat clips, but opted into stating counter sink the holes and use a proper fastener for clearance.

Also, usually i do follow your logic, once I see your methods that you share... just simply sound advice that anyone can emplement or not, if they choose to.

Ps, doesnt the axle cotter pin look a bit old and rusty? I did recommend having the axles re torqued. Until i had to remove my hubs from the axles, i realized normal wear and tear will cause one of the axles to loosen. Which i found easy enough to remove with simple hand tools... which shouldnt be so easy. My pins looked in about the same condition, as well.

Edited by 304-dude - May/29/2019 at 11:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 2:39pm
So one of my guesses proved correct.

A lump of something between the wheel and drum/hub.

Glad you found an easy solution.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2019 at 11:02pm
redundancy is the root of all reliability.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rogue343 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2019 at 8:04am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

You can also used those push-on tin nuts, too....... I've seen enough wheels come off cars along the interstate - and drums slide enough to cause braking loss that I find a way to keep the retainers or replace them with the thin push on jobs. We did 24/7/365 towing with two wreckers - seen almost anything that can happen. IF it was to keep them on during assembly only - they'd use the cheaper push-on retainers and not drill the hubs and drums and install BOLTS. 
Assembly retainers are the thin, cheap, push-on things. 
They'd not waste resources drilling all those threaded holes, holes in drums, and create clearance for the bolt heads in their own wheels if it was for assembly only - they'd have saved over a buck a car on the tin push-on clips. 
When you've pulled in cars that have the drums still on vs. those that have had a drum slide off...... well, I keep the bolts or some sort of retainer personally. Like I say - have seen almost everything come on on the back end of a wrecker.
But it's your call and the "guesses" and majority are obviously against my logic.


The push on tin nuts can cause issues as well if the wheel is machined flat such as the one pictured.  The tin nuts will not allow a wheel like that to seat properly against the drum/rotor.  Spent 35 years in the tire industry and when installing any aftermarket wheels always removed those clips, cleaned the mating surfaces, and checked wheel fitment for clearances on all parts before we even mounted a tire.  Never had an issue with wheels coming loose because of it. 
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1966 Rambler American 440 4 door Factory 290 (now 360) 4 speed VIN 100003
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2019 at 9:53pm
i run my drums without the little bolts. i figure if all five lug nuts come off, i may have more trouble than the drum coming loose.

it is possible that if the drum is loose enough on the hub, it can get caught off-center when installing a wheel and bend the edges of the drum lug holes. that would be a large issue assembling cars on an assembly line or in fleet service statistics. at this great remove we pay more attention to details than anyone did when these were new.

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1968 american, 199ci, T96
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