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Rear Leaf Springs

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Red20 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2016 at 2:48am
Thanks TX390AMX. I appreciate the offer. I've used a set of strut compressors everytime I've pulled the coils out and though they're definitely not made for it, I've got the method down to a science.

After thinking about it for a while, I decided around 10pm this evening to go ahead and cut the coils and see what I end up with. I have to drive the car to work tomorrow, so I can't screw it up. And yes, I'm a glutton for punishment.

I have the coils out now and am thinking about how these are square end coils and not tangential ends with ramped spring seats. I haven't gotten a new set of oxy/acetylene bottles since selling mine before moving to SoCal from Hawaii, so laying down that last turn isn't an option. I don't think I wanted to heat up the springs anyway. I'm thinking I'll make square cuts then grind them down flat perpendicular to the long axis of the coils. That should at least help distribute the pressure. I'm also thinking I want the cut end in the upper pocket. It seems better "captured" up top and subject to less movement perhaps.

Also, cutting a certain number of coils isn't consistent as the first "turn" is flat against the second turn. I'm gonna try the 1" in coil height equals 2" of drop theory and hope for the best. I'm looking for 2" of drop. I'll make my cut and figure in the reduction in height from flattening out the cut as well. I'm worried I'm gonna cut 1" and get 1" of drop. We'll see. I'll cut an inch of coil height and give it a week of driving to see where it settles.

It's 12:47am and I have the coils on the workbench just waiting for the cutoff wheel.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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amcgearhead View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcgearhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 7:20am
Good morning,did you come up with a solution for the perch??I'm doing a 72 Javelin shooting for a 2" drop also.
1972 SST, 2001 MERC., 2008 CROSSBONES If it moves,it's going to break!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 7:49am
Originally posted by amcgearhead amcgearhead wrote:

Good morning,did you come up with a solution for the perch??I'm doing a 72 Javelin shooting for a 2" drop also.


Prostreetamx did a 2 inch drop with a plate... no issues with his purch I can recall.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/13-disc-brakes-for-amcs_topic49307.html

I gone and did mine without a plate, even though I changed to Ford spindles, the purch mod will work on stock spindles.

I got the mod from an old website back in 2001 ish. Simple and seems to fit my requirements very well.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/mega-modding-suspension-steering_topic53345.html?KW=65+wide+track
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcgearhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 8:41am
304 dude.I read the info on the wide track thread.Without a side by side pic,s are you saying on mod 1,that the amc perch ends have to be cut off and the ford ends cut off?Then weld the amc ends onto the ford perch body.So I'm guessing the ford perch body is stamped out shorter in height from the rod center to the top.Then use the amc rod to remount.Without this in front of me I'm asking if there is any interference with the pivot motion hitting the a frame.Welding and fab no problem.Also what ford mounts were used for the mod 1.Thank you!!!!
1972 SST, 2001 MERC., 2008 CROSSBONES If it moves,it's going to break!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 8:57am
Ah, understood... both the AMC and Ford purch are stamped steel but have variances, outside of AMC being tall. Ford has a slightly smaller diameter coil than AMC, and uses a flat style pocket to hold the Ford spring. So you need to cut the ends off of a Ford and weld AMC ends to match the coil diameter and offset of the coil sides on each end.

If you can weld it is not too difficult to do. Plus you can use poly bushings, which are hard to find for AMC without a complete kit.

As for pivot of the hybrid purch... no Issue but the oversized zerk fitting may touch under big bumps. I am using a custom 1/4" ball joint spacer that fits between the ball joint and the upper control arm. Will set the ball joint a wee lower as to clear heavy bounces. Though intended for my Ford spindle, as it is about 1/4" shorter than AMC upright. I figure with stock components and rubber bump limiters that may never happen. As the original site never pointed out any other issues when completed with a stock AMC suspension.



Edited by 304-dude - Feb/05/2017 at 9:09am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcgearhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 9:12am
That is what is I was figuring,about the wire dia.This way you don't have to be concerned about the spring resting on the perch.Did it figure out around a 2 inch drop.And is there any rocking interference?I can weld a great bead.Mig ,tig,ark,gas.Tool and die experience.Not bragging.The whole idea is the spring nesting in.If it is cut,I don't see that happening,unless a perch mod could be made for the cut spring to rest on.Thank you!!!!Could just plug the zerk until lube time.Do you remember if you got a full 2" drop or round abouts?Sorry for the 20 questions.

Edited by amcgearhead - Feb/05/2017 at 9:22am
1972 SST, 2001 MERC., 2008 CROSSBONES If it moves,it's going to break!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 9:22am
Well you could grind a pocket using a porting ball to allow the larger diameter to fit better, then weld the underside where the hole was created. As for offset, once you realize the AMC spring fits with the modified Ford purch ends, you will need to allow for the rate of coil offset, so when the purch rests in place the spring does not bind against one side . The AMC purch as a spring stop to keep the coil from rotating when on bumpy roads.

Some find lowering this way is like cutting coils, as it will change some steering geometry. Nothing too much not to be able to have a proper realignment done.

You will find a wee bit more toe in if anything. Some of which can be undone with a few turns of the tierod adjusters equally, to allow safer driving to your nearest alignment shop.

Edited by 304-dude - Feb/05/2017 at 9:28am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcgearhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 9:37am
All that seems straight forward.Still asking is that a 2" difference when finished?I like this solution.If plates are used the offset will be different,the tire will ride higher into the wheel well,with the same amount of travel and maybe could hit depending on tire specs. also.The way I'm thinking,do it your suggestion and the bump stops and up travel won't be changed.The springs in the car are fairly new and also have another set of new ones from along way back.
1972 SST, 2001 MERC., 2008 CROSSBONES If it moves,it's going to break!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 2:48pm
I have responded to this thread once, but I will do it again. I am afraid I have never bothered overthinking lowering the front end. special that of the design from 1970 up.
I cut with a cut off wheel from the bottom a number of coils relating to an approximation of 3 inches drop/ 1 full turn. As I have done this not only my own cars but occasionally some one else's usually   conjunction with a front end rebuild of which I use rubber OEM equivalent parts. As after much study I am not a fan of polyurethane unless I have no other choice.
As one full coil brings the front down about 3 inches it gives the "TransAm" or Dago style of the front slightly lower than the rear.
As to the reliability of the 3 inches / coil drop I have had no problem with it. I have gone as far as a 6 inch drop. While the end result looked good to my minds eye, there were interference problems I had to deal with which lead me to the opinion that it was a stupid thing to do so I bought a set of Junk Yard springs and re-did them. Again from the bottom. Style and looks is a matter of opinion and mine is the OEM configuration of the front slightly higher than the rear is ugly.
I am currently using the same approach to install a set if `19 inch tires on 10 inch wide wheels on s 1976 Hornet and the objective is to get the wheels to turn with out running into the fender well openings. I started by purchasing an exceptionally stiff set of coil springs that extended the front suspension to maximum travel and by trimming the coil springs via cutting coils I probably need another 3/4 turn cut off to get the height of the front of the car at the appropriate ride height and when done the car should have the correct ride and still allow the wheels to turn and not hit anything while making a turn.
Tire size on this car is P265 30ZR 19's on 2006 Shelby Cobra Mustang take-offs with wheel adapters to adjust off set along with a shim if needed. Ride appears to be coming in satisfactory.
I have a Spirit which uses P215 60R 14's in front and P245 60R 14's in the back and it looks and drives quite nice.

I have never had a problem with rear springs that was never traceable to anything but salt induced rust and corrosion with the rear springs and I continue to use what came with the car or purchasing junkyard rear springs that fit. If I ever wanted to adjust ride height in the rear I would use quality purchased lowering blocks and go with them

Edited by uncljohn - Feb/05/2017 at 2:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2017 at 3:14pm
In response to Uncljohn cutting springs... I see no reason why not. If you are familiar with doing such a thing. Peeps have been doing it long before custom spindles and such flooded the market. Even old racers to boot. It is a common sense approach, not too much and do it right, along with a proper realignment.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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