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Rear End |
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one bad rambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2008 Location: On The Island Status: Offline Points: 2007 |
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A Granada 9 inch was a great score back in the day they were a randam piece even found a couple behind 6cyl. models
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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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idrambler
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Nampa,Idaho Status: Offline Points: 2942 |
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I have a MOPAR 8 3/4 full spool Moser axles and 4.10 R&P....57 1/4 flange to flange....under the Gremlin...has worked great so far...would run low 11's at sea level.....
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Jim....AMCRC
Treasure Valley AMC Club, Pres 69 AMX 401/727 74 GremlinX 401/727race only 73 Matador 2dr HT 360/727 |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Don't forget F150 rears... though they had big drums only. I chose the Ford 9 as it is more durable than the 68 to 70 Dodge A and B bodied car rears, and are almost the same weight. The only big difference between the F150 rear over the car versions, is that the tubes are bigger with wider support spread at the center. If worried about the weight, going with 31 spline 8.8 axles will save some, over the truck axles, even if you get 28 pline versions. Some trucks have 35 spline axles.
Also you get the big bearing ends, though Explorer 8.8 has the same bearing size to fit 9 inch truck ends, just the ID of the bearing is a wee smaller than the 9 inch axle bearing. I could have bothered with an 8.8 that would need a wee bit more work to fit, but had great deals on sourcing parts for my 9 inch build. I know it is not narrowed, for drag slicks, and will not see the tree... but it is a nice setup if changing the pumpkin, and can grow from a good durable unit with grey iron, to a nasty nodular when your performance needs grow. Edited by 304-dude - May/07/2016 at 12:47pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Glenn Quinn
AMC Apprentice Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Conshohocken PA Status: Offline Points: 212 |
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Dana 60 with 4.10's.
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The "X", 8.74 @ 162 - N/A
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amx390ssc
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2015 Location: Bath, Pa Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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strange 60 check it out ! yes its really a dana 60, but look at it close. I purchased one no problems.
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PROSTOCKTOM
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2458 |
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Having a friend that has owned a rearend shop for over 35 years and having built and raced cars for 30 years now would probably qualify me for this thread with complete impartiality. Therefore I will give the pros and cons of each based on all that I know about them. You can further break this down for street cars vs race cars and by race cars I mean serious drag racing with slicks in particular.
First off we will deal with the purest and the AMC 20. AMC 20 Cons: First off you need to buy aftermarket ends and axles to make it safe before you even get into the interior for even a mild street car. Limited choice and availability of aftermarket parts, limited gear ratios (relative to others), expensive, not the strongest rearend in the lot. 30-spline axles really limit the amount of power and tire adhesion you can put to it. Pros: It's an AMC part Ford 8.8" Cons: There really are no cons with an 8.8" other than you can not just pull the pumpkin out and change the gears like you can in a 9" in 30 minutes if you want to change ratios. Also 33-spline is about the limit in axle size. Pros: Sky's the limit on the Pros, cheap, plentiful, unlimited availability of aftermarket parts, ton and tons of used parts all over swap meets and eBay. Gear ratios from 2.47 to up in the low 5.00's. The Explorer 8.8" is the absolute best bang for the buck in the $100-150 range. You get a 3.73, traction lock posi,31- spline axles, 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern, and disc brakes. Need it legal for NHRA/ IHRA racing add a C-clip eliminator kit and your rolling. Pickup an extra short side axle at the Pick-N-Pull and narrow one side 3" and you have a center pinion housing with a 56-1/2" wide wheel mounting to wheel mounting width. Don't like 3.73 gear ratio that can easily be adjusted by shopping for an Explorer rearend with a 3.55 or 4.10 ratio. (3.73 is the most common) 2-dr Sports almost always have 4.10's in them. I read in a previous post that they are, "as strong as a 10-bolt" I am not sure what 10-bolt they were making reference to, but an 8.8" is a lot stronger than the standard 8.2" GM 10-bolt and still even stronger than a 8.5" 10-bolt GM rear. There are a lot of very serious PRO 5.0 Mustangs running crazy fast with a 8.8" rear. It's hands down the best choice for even the smallest of budget. Dana 60 Cons: Big, Heavy No ratios commonly available taller than 3.54 (They did list a 3.31 in the Dana book, but I have never seen a 3.31 set in 30 years), However you can get ratios up to 7.17 if you need to race 330 ft., Can not change ratio at the track like you can with a Ford 9" Pros: Iconic with the Mopar faithful, WOW factor, Basically bullet proof, 9.75" ring gear, fairly cheap to build, I personally use them in my Duster and Hornet based on the fact that they are the best bang for the buck in hardcore drag racing. Aftermarket parts availability, tons and tons of used parts from almost 60 years of use. 9" Ford Cons: Few for a street ride, Need for more serious parts when getting serious at the race track. Transbrake and 4-speed cars quickly require aftermarket case when they blow the caps off the stock case, and all should have a Daytona pinion support regardless of transmission choice. Can get expensive when you add up all the parts it takes to build one for a serious race car. Pros: The 9" Ford is like shopping at Subway. You can get it built anyway you want from mild to wild, the Sky is the limit on this rearend. Sheet metal housings, all aluminum cases, every kind of posi or spool you could want. 1/8 mile race on Friday night and change the pumpkin for 1/4 mile racing Saturday night. Then switch back for 1/8 mile on Sunday it can be done with relative ease. If you want the most options in every component the 9" is King of the rearends. Everyone has there opinion on what they think is the ultimate in rearend choice, but here are some facts to help guide you in making a educated selection. Hope this helps someone. Tom Edited by PROSTOCKTOM - Jul/19/2016 at 11:53pm |
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sasyamx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/24/2007 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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On the 8.8 explore rear ends, do you have to modify the spring perches or are they the same distance as the Amc 20 ,I looking at putting one in a 68 Javelin,and what about the drive shaft ,what do you have to do to it
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Red Devil
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1743 |
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Not sure about perches, but handy chart in the link below shows the pinion u-joint centre to-axle housing centre distance and pinion vertical offset. Looks like 8.8" or 9" swaps need a longer driveshaft for proper fit. Not sure if there is a companion flange to U-joint adapter that would work with the stock driveshaft?
http://www.truehi9.com/driveshaft2.html Note the Explorer 8.8 pinion is also offset a fair bit from centre. Not sure about the '68 Javelin, but pinion offset is 9/16" to the right on my '74 Javelin AMC20. Hope this helps,RD. |
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sasyamx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/24/2007 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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Thanks
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