Rear End

AMC 20, 4.44 Dealer Installed Gears, factory 2 piece center section, Henri's axles....It was "built" in 1970/71...ran best of 11.40's with 8 inch slick at York US 30 in 1971.....has about 200 runs on it by the original owner with no issues.  The OE has picts of the front wheels about 12" off the ground on a 7000 RPM launch....only time he said he ever did it.....but he didn't lift!!!...just carried through.  The above guys are running today's technology and if building in today's world the Ford 9" or Dana 60 are the only way to go.

original 1969 (Hemi/440 4spd) B-body D60, Spicer 4.56's Detroit & 35 spline Mosers....



oh, it's in my trail Jeep now
but it came out of an 11 second B-body so that counts, right?

im with one bad rambler 8.8 are dime a dozen any mustang or explore will have one parts are cheap and with the right mods can handle over 600 hp they are as strong as a gm 10 bolt you can pick parts up out of mustang forums a rear end will cost about 100$

Red Devil wrote: Anyone know the actual finished install cost of an 8.8 vs. just putting one-piece shafts into an AMC20 for say a 12-13 sec. car? - does stock driveshaft work, i.e. just need yoke/adapter/conversion u-joint or need a longer/shorter shaft? - what is the cost of c-clip eliminators to suit drag - cost to adapt brake hoses, e-brake cables, etc. - u-bolts, shock mounting plate, etc. to suit larger diameter tube - deal with greater pinion offset - do Ford hubs have a smaller pilot diameter if using hub-centric wheels Dr.Diff cut-to-fit one-piece shaft kit for the AMC 20 is $295. Can you fit an 8.8 for less that is stronger? http://www.doctordiff.com/amc-1-piece-passenger-car-axle-pkg.html Thanks,RD.

I paid $250 for a 3.73 posi (they also had a few 3.55 and 4.11`s) 31 spline 3 1/4 inch tube with all the disc brakes and that also included the extra short axle and the companion flang for the drive shaft....i measured the ford joint (1330) and the AMC joint bought a quality joint for 30 bucks shaft was the correct length you can switch the l/s and r/s brake hoses and it hooks up or you can run a new brake line on the l/side of the car(Much safer and smarter) you can also modify the ends of your org. parking brake cables to fit the calipers..Overall strength is apples and oranges...my fiend runs one of these in a 7 sec car.....your hooked on the Dr diff axles i`m not..don`t get me wrong i run a model 20 in my altered wheelbase wagon and have probably set up a couple of hundred for customers back in my jeep days..and 12 and 13 sec cars are not race car`s 

We ran 8 3/4 rears behind some some pretty stout big block mopars and the held up just fine..The better your suspension is set up the less strain on your posi, limited slip,twin grip will suffer