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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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Cricket View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cricket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2015 at 12:05pm
I tried to contact Gus Averil, but my email got kicked back. Has anyone else been able to contact him, get an adapter, bought one, or make one? I want to use my torque tube rear with a modern drivetrain, and would really like some suggestions. Thanks again. Cricket
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/04/2015 at 6:48am
This is member fox12303's late model Mustang 8.8" installation in a 1964 Classic. He used a 1989 model, but any Fox body axle should be the same. Don't relegate yourself to the 8.8" if running a six or even a small V-8 for a cruiser. The 7.5" axle was used in all Mustangs until 1986, even GT V-8s (and the heavier T-bird). It's stronger than most think, and it is 70-80 pounds lighter than the 8.8". Unless you plan on drag racing with slicks and a high power engine the 7.5" will be fine.  The 7.5 will also cost a lot less, as it isn't in demand like the 8.8".

The Mustang axle has some offset but it is almost identical to the original AMC axle. The Rambler axle measured 58.5", Fox Mustang is published as 59.25" - only 3/4" wider.  A tubular crossmember was used for the upper arm mounts. Look closely at the photos you will see that the crossmember is in the same location as the rear rubber brake line mount on the floor. The mount was moved to the crossmember, and you can see the end of the original mount welded to the floor. He used a Summit Racing tubular rear control arm kit. Material for the crossmember is 2" DOM tubing and 1/8" steel plate for all brackets.

The original thread is located here: http://theamcforum.com/forum/66-rambler-6cyl-removed_topic67069_page1.html. He also installed a Ford 302 and AOD, but the axle install will work with any engine, even an AMC -- just need to build the appropriate driveshaft.










Edited by farna - Nov/04/2015 at 7:03am
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2016 at 10:49am
Originally posted by 59ramblersuper6 59ramblersuper6 wrote:

I'm running the stock rambler wheels. I forget which size tire but they don't rub. The spacer was nessary with the wrangler d35 due to the end of the axle hub being to big. The center hole in the wheel would not fit over it. I had the spacer machined to allow the wheel to fit over the spacer center hole. The tires stick out a bit but this give a hint that the car has a little more that the 196 up its sleeve.

I'll post pics when I get started. Still far too cold and snowy to start this project.

I saw down in a different thread you mentioned the car is up and running on the truck arms. I would dearly love to hear and see the detailed install, or even a just what you did will do!

If it's posted somewhere else a line? I was off-list due to some massive depression and surgery plus MRSA issues and didn't see anything.
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65 Ambassador Ragtop rustbucket
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
2012 Mitsubishi Lancer S.E.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cricket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2016 at 6:40pm
What is the drum to drum measurement? Should be the same for my 66 Classic, I assume, and want to keep my rear drum brakes(I just bought all new tires, and like the 14" wheels/tires), so I am sure a 7.5 should be plenty strong for my 327 if I don't romp it much!

Originally posted by Oliverpuller Oliverpuller wrote:



I am currently doing a V-8/rear end swap in my '64 770 2dr Classic Hardtop. Thought I would share my parts list and a few pics of the rearend swap. May help someone down the road...
89 Ford Ranger 7.5" rear axle, Mopar A-Body rear leaf springs. I built the front leaf spring mounts from 3 1/2" x 3/16" square tubing, factory A-Body front bushings; the rear mounts I used 1 3/8 OD x 7/8" ID DOM tubing welded to 3/16" x 3 flat; rear shackles are 1/4" x 1 1/4 flat; rear shackle bushings are Mopar A-Body (7/8" OD x 1/2" ID); Shocks mounts are Ford Ranger, pass side in factory position, drivers side was re-located; Ford Ranger rear shocks; the upper tube is 1 1/2" x 1/8" tubing; spring perches were removed and re-located to the bottom of axle tube. Pinion angle is 3 degrees to follow the 3 degree angle of the Ford 302/AOD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2017 at 8:43am
These pics are from member oldbikers Dodge V-6 installation (http://theamcforum.com/forum/60-rambler-with-dodge-v6-5-speed-build_topic72789.html). Home made truck arms (1.5"x2.0" 11 gauge rectangular steel tubing). Not the best pics of the front crossmember, but good enough that you get the idea. Rubber bushings used in front pivots. He reused the stock panhard rod from the 1960 Rambler Six (big car) and the spring seats. Axle is a Ford Ranger 8.8".










Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2017 at 9:35am
Here are photos of another truck arm installation from Forum member 59ramblersuper6 in Delaware.  He used Hot Rods To heck arms. After contacting them they recommended the components they use as a Buick torque tube eliminator kit. He welded the front crossmember in, also has installed a "frame connector". The truck arm crossmember welds to the intersection of the connector and unitbody front sill.

The HRTR G-Body kit is also a good choice, has all the needed components, though some  modification of the front crossmember would be required. HRTH use the same arms in all their kits,  different front crossmembers. You can order a set of arms from them for $300 if you don't want to
make your own, and fab your own front crossmember.

http://hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/truckarm_gbody/truckarm_gbody.htm
http://hotrodstohell.net/catalog/catalog.htm#CC (scroll down for arms and other parts)

The axle is an early Ford Explorer with drum brakes. The 3" offset of the pinion caused the driveshaft to hit the cut-out (notch) in the crossmember. To fix that he had a shop swap the long and short axle tubes -- both were removed and long put in factory short side, and vice-versa. Overall width was okay, so no narrowing. Car is a 59 Super Sedan (big car). The side to side swap brought the pinion closer to center. He also made 1/2" spacers to raise the spring seats. This was done to clear the u-bolts for the truck arms, not to raise the car. The offset is obvious in the second photo. Another option would have been to offset the notch in the crossmember -- probably a cheaper option. Couldn't move it very far without relocating the pivots a bit further apart though, which would change the angle of the arms. If making your own arms that shouldn't be an issue, but could be with the HRTH arms.  As long as everything clears the offset pinion is not an issue.

















Edited by farna - Feb/12/2017 at 9:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2017 at 3:03pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Originally posted by amcramblermarlin amcramblermarlin wrote:




Ford purchased (finally) the rights to manufacture the BW M8-12 auto transmission (which goes back in history to the story of Studebaker Detroit Gear DG 200 and DG 250 four speed lock up automatic transmission designed in '49/'50) starting around '67, and made a few changes to it then re-named it "FMX". Ford continued to use the FMX thru '78 in trucks? The FMX is another trans swap candidate then and should have the same bolt patterns as the BW M8-12 used in AMC products... and the the other plausible interchanges, such as high stall torque converter shift kit etc. but the AMC BWs can be tuned to shift firm if you know you're doing
You are joking.    Ford did not buy the rights......................the "FMX" is the last version of the Ford cast iron cruise-o-matic. and NONE of the parts interchange either.  and I guess you have been reading this incorrect information as usual...............Confused


Nope; Since I enjoy rebuilding these units & since I'm an amateur AMC historian, I've studied this topic for a long, long time. (yes, so many lies about our favorite cars) Just trying to reduce confusion about the trans in order to improve our AMC reputation.

This is easily proved by comparing trans tags and noting the Warner Gear units have the patent numbers and the nearly identical Ford made units don't. This is what patents are for; to protect the original designers and protect against copycats trying to make money by stealing and manufacturing someone else's invention.

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Sorry to sidetrack the thread, but it seems that the perception of an inferior drivetrain is basic to questions about drivetrain swap.

If one was really a Chevy person, here's a pic of the ultimate upgrade for a Chevelle (converts GM intermediate to make it similar to Rambler Classic/Marlin!)



-Similar expensive kits are sold to convert classic Mustangs to have Classic/Marlin type rear suspension.

Gen 3 full unibody Camaro with strut type front suspension and coil sprung torque arm rear suspension inadvertently proves AM was at least 15 years ahead in unibody design and engineering.



Edited by amcenthusiast - Jun/03/2017 at 3:06pm
Link to XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/favorite_links.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2017 at 10:19am
Let's stay on topic guys!! I'm going to have to clean this thread up to keep it more relevant. Refer lots of newbies to threads like this... the "clutter" of off-topic things just causes confusion.

Amcenthusiasts -- your last post is actually a good one. That type suspension could be adapted to a Rambler body with a little fab work. Only "problem" is, as you stated, it's a bit expensive.
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