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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/03/2010 at 9:51am
The very front of the lift pads is closer to three feet from the axle center line. You'd need to weld a crossmember across the floor and tie it into the front of the lift pads/rear rails and/or the inner rocker (side sill) edges. The crossmember would have a "hump" in the center for the driveshaft, mounted down to serve as a rear driveshaft loop. 
http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition-Engineering/247/2019/10002/-1?parentProductId=743909

Scroll down to the 32 and 34 Ford kits on this page:
http://www.morfabcustoms.com/catalog/Catalog2005.html
I really like the long ladder bars, but the crossmember may not be long enough to span between the inner rockers on the 63-66 big Rambler (60-7/32") -- call and see if they make a wider one or just weld on extensions. An alternative would be to make "subframe" connectors and mount the ladder bar crossmember on them.
Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine
www.amc-mag.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E.J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/03/2010 at 9:21pm
Thank you for the info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E.J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2010 at 7:37pm
The ladder bars on the morfabcustoms.com site has the ladder bars runing at an angle toward the the center of the car. Is the angle important? If so what is the angle. I believe it was said that the longer the bars the better. I'm considering making my own bars instead of buying them to get them longer. I'm hearing that urethane rod ends are better for the street, at least in the front. Does anyone know of a good source for rod ends etc.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2010 at 8:16pm
The angle isn't important. The angled bars let the rear axle flex more from side to side. Parallel bars would be stiffer. You can find all the rod ends and other odd bits and pieces you'd ever want at www.speedwaymotors.com. YES -- use urethane rod ends in the front. I'd use the same ends used for four link bars, 1/2" bolt hole, 5/8" or 3/4" threads into the rods. Spherical rod ends wear out too fast, even when you get the little rubber seals for them. If you only drive the car occasionally it might be okay to replace rod ends every 3-5 years. From rodders I've talked to you're lucky if the spherical ends last 8-10K miles before they are too loose to drive -- many got less. So no sphericals for a daily driver!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2010 at 10:45am
I bought a pair of RHE ARCA truck arms. $112 shipped for the pair.
They are 51" center to center and are currently setup for monoballs, which I also figure will have a short street life. I am either going to go with them and see how long they last or I have a link some posted here for universal poly bushings that has sizes that will fit in the monoball end bore.

For angle, I plan on one of two options.
One I will pick a crossmember from Hotrodstohell that is wide enough to go unibody rail to rail.
Or use a stock 62-72 chevy truck crossmember. That will place the arms at the angle those years trucks used and it will be all setup for me for the most part.

option two, I will build my own and if doing that I will point the imaginary intersect point at where the current torque tube meets the trans.

If, you decide to build your own as near as a quick measure shows you can achieve bars of up to about 65"s long, which would certainly allow for plenty of twist, however with a 65" long bar you will want to make sure the stock if heavy enough not to bend, yet still have some flex for twist.

my measurements were just eyeballed with a tape measure on my 65 Ambassador.
Wrambler

69 AMC Rambler

4.0L, 5 speed

65 Ambassador Ragtop rustbucket

97 Cherokee Sport

4.0L 5 speed

04 Grand Cherokee Laredo

4.7L Quadratrac II

Zip is 26505
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2010 at 11:43am
A universal ladder bar crossmember should work nicely to start with. But rolling your own is a good solution if you can. Maybe make a crossmember from square tubing with a gap and "bridge" for the driveshaft...
Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine
www.amc-mag.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cadipacer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/09/2010 at 9:07am
 I did this swap 15 years ago on my 1962 Rambler classic 2 dr  401 2-4bbls  (  selling due to retirement)
 I used ALLLLLLLLLL Rambler/AMC parts...  PM for my  phone ,, we can talk (  have spare rear assy already set up with coils,, panhard brackets,, shock brackets.. less  ring/pin)


Edited by cadipacer - Nov/10/2010 at 8:40am
78 Pacer wagon w/ 500 cid Cadillac V8, 2:87 spool.Stock appearance
with hubcaps & white wall tires












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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcron57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/05/2010 at 10:00pm
When swapping out the rear end in a 65/66 Ambassador or Classic, do you have to modify the rear floor pans when using GM truck arms? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2010 at 12:10pm
Nope. There's room. The truss rods on the torque tube axle are in about the same area the truck arms need. You will need to install a crossmember for the front of the truck arms, unless you mount them all the way up on the trans crossmember. If you do that replace the rubber crossmember mounts. Galvin's and other AMC vendors have repros now. Or make a solid bracket to replace the original rubber mount.
Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine
www.amc-mag.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcron57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/18/2010 at 6:13pm
Thanks for the information. I'm moving forward with the project and I should have the rear-end installed within a couple of weeks.
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