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rear end swap 56-66 Classic

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2013 at 5:37pm
PM sent...

For those interested in what we war talking about, here's a link:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-leaf-spring-slider.html


Edited by farna - Feb/13/2013 at 5:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cadipacer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2013 at 7:55pm
 This is for sale  $150
SOLD!/SOLD!78 Pacer wagon w/ 500 cid Cadillac V8, 2:87 spool.

1956 Nash Statesman.PS,PB AC 360 rack & pin.2:56 gears.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramblage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2013 at 6:57pm
Has anyone done the truck arm suspension setup? Im planning on going that route since it looks easier to setup and has more benefits than the ladder bar in my 59 rambler custom.
1960 Customized Land Barge Rambler Super with Dodge 360 & 5spd
1971 Silver Bullet Javelin w/232 Engyne!
1972 Crappy Green Javelin w/401 and AW4, still in the works
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RamblinMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2013 at 9:27pm
The main problem with truck arms is exhaust routing. It a pain in the trucks with no footwells. It will be a serious headache in a car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramblage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2013 at 11:12pm
Exhaust routing im not too worried about that because the car is gonna be setup for racing, and correction its for my 60 rambler super not my 59! I don't mind also re-modifying the rear foot wells either if I have to since im only gona have a driver and front passenger seat.
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1972 Crappy Green Javelin w/401 and AW4, still in the works
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 9:45am
On the big Ramblers exhaust routing isn't a problem as long as you keep it close to stock. The torque-tube rear end has strut rods that go from the outer edges of the axle (the shock mounts) to the torque tube about 18" back from the transmission.

I haven't seen a truck-arm suspension installed in a Rambler yet. If you want to see about what it should look like see http://www.hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/truckarm_gbody/truckarm_gbody.htm. That's a GM G-body (78-87 Regal/Cutlass/Grand Prix/Monte Carlo). They have the rear springs mounted on the axles like the Ramblers do. HRTH uses I-beam arms with the shock mounts made onto the arms, but you can cut the shock mounts from the original axle (they bolt on, riveted to the strut rod) and use them. The arms don't have to be I-beam, but should have some flex to them. Round tubing won't work as well as light gauge (about 12-10 gauge) rectangular tubing. I would use 1" wide x 2" tall at a minimum for a street car, maybe go with 3" tall for a high power drag car (and could go 1.5" wide, but 1" should be good). You can use heim joints in front, but they will be noisy. I'd use either tie rod ends (yes, plain old steering tie rod ends -- Ford used them in their 30s and 40s cars on locator rods) or a rubber or poly end for the front. The long arms are supposed to flex (twist) a little, so you don't need a rod end that flexs like a heim joint. There are poly rod ends that flex similar to a heim available from 4x4 places, sometimes called a "Johnny Joint" in various sizes (http://www.4wd.com/Fabrication-Tools/Flex-Joints.aspx?t_c=86&t_s=528&t_pt=101460). If you're not sure about using a solid joint try one of those instead of metal on metal heim joints.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 11:23am
They did a half A$$ed truck arm in a 58 ish rambler wagon on Loud and obnoxious, (or whatever the name is) Fast and loud?. They used rectangular tubing and the quick pics I saw had the arms way to far apart at the front.

I have a set of REI nascar arms and a 65 Ambassador Convertible...I just need to decide on a rear axle and finish my last few chores on the 69 Rambler.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramblage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/22/2013 at 1:57pm
Checked out that setup as well as other setups on other cars on that website which has a lot of great information! I figure the stock I beam setup would be more forgiving in twist so I might just go with that. Im gona swap the rear end with a furd 9" wich would require alittle more fab work but im up to the task! Tie rod ends in the front sound like a good idea Tho!
I didn't know they did that Wrambler, I thought they went with a 4 link. Havent seen any pics on that setup but using rectangular tubing im not gonna go that route!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/23/2013 at 11:52am
My ends are setup for miniball mounts.
Thought about swapping them to stock style or some poly generic ends sized to fit in place of the miniball ends. I need to search it out again, but there is a place that sells generic sized businhgs that can go in where the miniballs would sit. Still thinking on that.

   I'm putting an 8.8 in the 69 Rambler, so I may just go that route on the Ambassador to keep things the same.

Time to go buy some materials to clean off the original mounts from the first 8.8*.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote elkyman70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2013 at 5:05pm
Wrambler, planning a 8.8 swap for my 66 Marlin. By my measurements the Explorers rears are about 1/2" wider than my Marlins. The Explorers rear has a 2" offset to the right for the pinion. I swapped rears in an'85 S-10 with a '98 S-10 which was a "bolt-in" kinda same same thing so no issues. Was wondering if you or anyone else whose made this work has had an issue with the offset. If I'm looking at shortening, lengthening etc etc the axles to even out the length it might become prohibitively expensive to do the swap. I'm open to suggestions.   
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