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Rear brakes draging |
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n1njazx7
AMC Fan Joined: Oct/05/2017 Location: Louisville Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: Oct/05/2017 at 6:59pm |
I just got a 1965 Marlin and have been trying to get the brakes lined out. So far I have the front disc brakes working good. The rear seems to hold when I press the brake more than light pressure. I took the rear drums off and found the short shoe on the rear and long shoe on the front. I through this was wrong so I turned them around and it seems a little worse. What way is right? Could they have worn as they were installed before and now won't work as I installed them?
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Gelalthedamned
AMC Nut Joined: Nov/28/2014 Location: Athens ga Status: Offline Points: 376 |
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Big shoe in the front of both sides is universal theory I think
What’s the emergency brake line doing toward the rear? Mine was maladjusted once. I deleted it and don’t park on hills |
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Calamity - 73 Gremlin X zombie rod (daily driver)
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hassyfoto
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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When you say rubbing, additional information might help. Do you feel the rubbing is on the drum or on the backing plate? Is the brake shoe adjustment correct?
Quick checks 1. Lift the rear off the ground, put in neutral, emergency brake off and turn each wheel by hand. What do you get? The wheel should turn freely and if adjusted properly you will hear slight rubbing of the drum to the brake shoes. Like a scratching noise. (Many times the adjustment is incorrect, many times new shoes are adjusted to tight. Mechanics do this so that re-adjustment is not needed as quickly) 2. Make sure the emergency brake is adjusted properly and the cables work properly. Sometimes the cables will hang up. As soon as the e-brake is used one or both sides hang up. Again with the rear of the car in the air ( tires/wheels on) engage the e-brake, check that the wheels are holding, release the e-brake and check again. Maybe do this several times as e-brake can hang up intermittently. 3. Get a TSM ( Service manual) and check for the correct placement of all parts. Springs and adjusting cable are often installed incorrectly. Another part if installed backwards that can cause problems is the (parking brake "link" or called the "strut" or called the "push rod"). The return spring on this part is often installed on the incorrect side. Check the TSM for the correct location specific to your car. 4. Check the brake wheel cylinder. You may need to remove the brake shoes and springs. See if both wheel cylinder push rods are moving freely. Do this by hand, do not push on the brake pedal. As the wheel cylinder wears or begins to rust out the piston cup will start to turn slightly and catches the side of the wheel cylinder housing causing a binding issue. If there is any resistance from a smooth movement of the piston cup, remove the rubber boot and visually check the bore of the wheel cylinder. Some other things to check. Incorrect brake shoe size is a common problem. Usually the width is the issue. This will cause the drum to rub against the side of the brake pad and can cause the brake pad to hit against the backing plate. I have returned many new brake pads because they may have been packaged incorrectly. ( Wrong part, but the correct part number). It happens! Worn out springs may cause sloppiness in the brake parts, which can cause intermittent issues such as rubbing problems, premature wear of parts, etc. Drum is out of round. Measure proper thickness and the drum is concentric. Brake pads have uneven wear. ( Many causes, cheap pads, pad is separating from shoe, pad is not tight against the shoe, etc.. - visual check that all parts are built correctly and assembly is correct) Just some quick thoughts for things to look at. |
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6213 |
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The primary brake shoe ( small ) should be toward the front on both sides. Look at your TSM, or any TSM, Chilton manual, etc.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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I'd say replace the rubber line connecting to the diff and make sure the cables slide easily in their jackets. A new spring kit and new cylinders wouldn't hurt. That stuff is cheap these days. I suppose there is also the possibility of the MC hanging up.
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ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Online Points: 11535 |
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A '65 Marlin came from the factory with front discs and with weird non-servo rear brakes. These are next to impossible to find correct parts for. And I don't even know to tell you what to look for! But do try to figure out if you have the correct wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes, etc. (And don't order anything for these brakes from Autozone or Advance or Rock Auto or NAPA because in all likelihood it won't be correct, even if it's listed for a '65 Marlin.)
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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Online Points: 5457 |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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