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rally pack

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Steve_P View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2020 at 9:53pm
the 68-9 RP amp gauge wiring is  heavy gauge (#8?)  like the alternator lead. I've stripped a few down.  I agree it's stupid to run 30A+ into the car, but I've also never put an amp clamp on the wiring.  There's no added resistance in the harness - unless it's in the gauge and I can't see that's possible as that'd melt the dash.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/21/2020 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

fuse
 
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

All the current from the alternator goes through the AMP gauge. Stick with the original plan.

Eep! IF that's where the fusible link is, absolutely you are 100% correct. I was thinking that it was a feed for the rest of the gauge cluster. Speciically not ammeter. My bad.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote knobbler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/23/2020 at 1:58am
If you aren't set on keeping things original, you can replace the ammeter with a voltmeter. I've done this with my pod, using a 2" gauge Bosch sells. It's actually pretty simple to do, gives you more useful info than the ammeter (though this might be a matter of opinion), and gets rid of the need for that fusible and running the fat wire all the way from the front to the interior and back (and the potential failures that come with it).

You'd need to do a little modification to the back enclosure of the gauge pods, because the Bosch gauge has studs that are offset from the spacing of the OE ammeter. You'd also need to remove the metal can used as an enclosure for the Bosch gauge (really simple to do), then make some slight changes to reduce the circumference of the gauge face plate to make it look right. 

I'm thinking of putting together a picture tutorial to show what I did, but it's a pretty straightforward process when you have the parts laid out in front of you. All the same, let me know if you're interested and I'll get something posted some time this next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bcsideshow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/01/2020 at 11:08am
Here are the instruction sheets from my NOS 70 kit.  Not a lot of detail but hope it helps.  I think 69 would connect the same.  
1969 SCRambler "B"
1970 AMX 390 Auto
1968 AMX 390 Auto
1970 Rebel Machine Project
1969 AMX 390 4SPD Project
1969 AMX 390 Auto Project
1969 Javelin 390 project
1997 Cherokee lifted
1998 TJ Lifted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/01/2020 at 6:19pm
If there's a heavy wire or wires on the amp gauge then i would have to assume that the gauge is not a shunt type. The junction block may simply be a connection point.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/01/2020 at 6:47pm
Right. 
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
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70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)
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