Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
rally pack |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | ||
Steve_P
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Status: Offline Points: 3808 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
the 68-9 RP amp gauge wiring is heavy gauge (#8?) like the alternator lead. I've stripped a few down. I agree it's stupid to run 30A+ into the car, but I've also never put an amp clamp on the wiring. There's no added resistance in the harness - unless it's in the gauge and I can't see that's possible as that'd melt the dash.
|
||
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Eep! IF that's where the fusible link is, absolutely you are 100% correct. I was thinking that it was a feed for the rest of the gauge cluster. Speciically not ammeter. My bad. |
||
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
||
knobbler
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/13/2015 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 171 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
If you aren't set on keeping things original, you can replace the ammeter with a voltmeter. I've done this with my pod, using a 2" gauge Bosch sells. It's actually pretty simple to do, gives you more useful info than the ammeter (though this might be a matter of opinion), and gets rid of the need for that fusible and running the fat wire all the way from the front to the interior and back (and the potential failures that come with it).
You'd need to do a little modification to the back enclosure of the gauge pods, because the Bosch gauge has studs that are offset from the spacing of the OE ammeter. You'd also need to remove the metal can used as an enclosure for the Bosch gauge (really simple to do), then make some slight changes to reduce the circumference of the gauge face plate to make it look right. I'm thinking of putting together a picture tutorial to show what I did, but it's a pretty straightforward process when you have the parts laid out in front of you. All the same, let me know if you're interested and I'll get something posted some time this next week.
|
||
bcsideshow
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: May/19/2010 Location: Kenosha Status: Offline Points: 1228 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Here are the instruction sheets from my NOS 70 kit. Not a lot of detail but hope it helps. I think 69 would connect the same.
|
||
1969 SCRambler "B"
1970 AMX 390 Auto 1968 AMX 390 Auto 1970 Rebel Machine Project 1969 AMX 390 4SPD Project 1969 AMX 390 Auto Project 1969 Javelin 390 project 1997 Cherokee lifted 1998 TJ Lifted |
||
george w
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/27/2013 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 2899 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
If there's a heavy wire or wires on the amp gauge then i would have to assume that the gauge is not a shunt type. The junction block may simply be a connection point.
|
||
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
|
||
ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 11545 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Right.
|
||
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
||
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |