radio for 73 Jav.....

If your making it by what you have... it will be more stout than the AMC one. I literally had to straighten a wee bit from the weight of radio, speaker and sag of dash pad over the years.

It's probably too late in the day to send out and have you get it Tuesday. I am smack center of IL, but by the time i get it packaged and out the door to USPS and all, would be a mad dash.

Understood about the troubles. I too had to spend some time with glue and silicone over the parts I have been working on.

I donno if you can remove the glove box door by the reverse end with the unit out, by undoing the latch loop.

I'd trade my dark blue one unlocked and a spare key and latch loop, if you can manage that. I really don't care about it being functional just there to fill the open hole. I may just end up using the door as a backing to fill in the seam and texture the hole thing, part of my interior customisation. Already filled the speaker hole, so no problem there.

If you think it is something you may want to do let me know, and i will try to package everything up and make a run. No guarantees to get there Tuesday, if USPS closes before i get there.

You may want to refresh the page... i did an update just before you replied.

Maybe we can take up a collection of extra used trunk keys and send them to you. Had a guy at the pick and pull find a key match with his existing lock. I am sure there is at least 5 or more worn keys that may unlock your glove box lock, from various years.

I may just for the fun of it, try picking my lock just to see if the old trick of filing down the fist 4 tumbler cuts will allow picking the lock.

My cousin... yeah I know, again he brings up his cousin. Is always picking locks and has jailer's key rings filled with keys of all makes. I always see him practicing when he has spare time on his hands.

Yep about selling complete lock and doors... though if you don't have a key, then at least make sure the lock is unlocked.

The Issues you have had with some purchase at swap meets.... i wonder how bad it really is for some. Though I have not made many in my time, but have found myself lucky, until I go think i can do with something similar, only on a pinch.



Edited by 304-dude - Apr/21/2018 at 9:13pm

I was under the impression the lock was locked, for some odd reason.

I searched and did not find anything differing to using old keys. Many have successfully used other keys to lock and unlock. Some suggested swap meets to have others give It a try, with their key.

If you are desperate and willing, the old quick and dirty way is to drill out the tumbler, progressively using larger bits until 7/16" is reached.

Luckily there are flats on each side of the lock, which makes using a way to set In position. Since the lock cylinder is pot metal, drilling carefully and slow, should not be that difficult.

The worst thing is damaging the lock latch assembly... but you have a good one with the lock your trying to swap.

Those are the only two methods I can say will get your lock of.

Even if you can get the lock slider to move past the lock tumbler, slow methodical key sliding with an improper key that can lock and unlock, will allow the cylinder to come out. I tested myself with a partial key insertion once i got the cylinder to slide past the lock tumbler.

So you don't necessarily need a perfect match key.

Billd, i was able to remove the lock cylinder from the lock assembly without a key. Just needed a paper clip and remove the two screws holding the lock assembly to the door.

There is another square hole in the 3 o'clock position that is hidden by being mounted against the door when secured by screws.

Once you undo the screws you can rotate the lock assembly counter clockwise, till you see the square hole through the maintenance hole, just as you would in the locked position.

Just poke the lock tumbler down as you would before inserting the key. Then pull lock assembly carefully to release the tumbler past the hole. The tumbler knob will hold against the door, so by pulling on the assembly, allows releasing each tumbler without having the barrel slip back into the cylinder by finger pressure. You may have to jiggle up and down a wee bit, but never turn the barrel, and use the paper clip to release the next few tumblers.

Should work for you, and and i think the engineers thought of It for lost key replacement.

I thought of it as a means to drill such a hole, to allow the release while in the relaxed position, since the tumblers are already free for rotation in the barrel.

Edited by 304-dude - Apr/22/2018 at 10:10am

OK, I will measure out the distances for mounting holes between front hole and plastic frame.

As for the hole... i can upload and post a picture to show what i mean. It is possible the lock assembly is a wee different for 71 than 73, as for revision. Or maybe flashing on the cast structure.

If by chance you don't see the hole, you can carefully create one, as on as the mounting hole that has been rotated is 12 o'clock. A small bit near center of the maintenance hole will be enough to push a tumbler down. Though you will have to feel to catch the next tumbler if wiggling does not free it. The last 2 usually can come out with up and down wiggling. But once you get the hang of pushing the tumblers at the front edge down, the procedure is fairly quick.

I know how you feel with having too much to do. Seems like weekends are work days. Plus having to think things through can burn you out.

Should have all the info you require on both key lock and mounting locations between the front and rear holes soon.