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radio for 73 Jav.....

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pit crew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 2:12pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Ken/pit crew - WHAT SIZE speaker did you run in the dash - the dual-voice coil?
There's precious little room, looks like a small oval, 5.5 x 6" perhaps?
The dash is busteed up and patched pretty badly and thye PO has put some sort of blue epoxy like stuff around the speaker hole to stabilize it and the speaker filler grill that AMC has there has an ear broken off and the area of where that broken off or missing ear would go is all epoxied.
So I can't do much messing with that area unless I want to spend another grand for more dash parts that are probably not much better than mine are.
Depending on how you measure, it's almost round, maybe a half inch off from being round, 6x6.5 of 5.5 x 6"
Just wondering what you used, where you got it, what size and so on. 
I'm afraid tr look in the trunk - it's scary back there, holes, rust, trunk gasket really nasty - could be things alive - or worse, dead - back there, but I'll see what speakers are needed back there.
I don't have pockets on the door panels, but hate to cut these totally uncut panels - they are the best part of the interior except the carpet and FRONT seats.
Bill, No oval. Round. The speaker has it's own sheet metal mounting plate that sit on the top of the center stack and the speaker grill in the dash pad just floats over it. Now you have me wondering if your missing the speaker mount. I have a pretty poor picture of the mount I'll post and you can let me know if you have it. Just ignore the mouse nest we had to clean out. I have to check the paper work but it seems to me it was a 5.5 shallow profile dual coil from RetroSound.

In this instance the factory speaker is gone. On this car they carved up the doors, carved up the dash, put in a large aftermarket radio, put oversized speakers in the door, and use the old speaker mounting bracket as a place to attach their back support strap. Shade tree engineering at its finest.





73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 2:12pm
I had wondered about that solution as I've seen guys do this with Honda and other cars, one guy had a chevy pickup where he jammed a huge AC system in his dash and had no room for a standard radio, PERIOD.
They all talk of using CAT5 or similar, and rigging a cable allowing the radio to be anywhere, and the faceplate stuck to the dash any place they wanted it. 

I'm REALLY thinking of this after seeing other forums (mostly car stereo forums and foreign car forums) do this and now YOU said you did it?? That brings it closer to home - an AMC'er and a forum member did it and it worked.  I am a former IT network admin - and I have shielded cable up the wazoo anything from 50 pair to 4 pair, ribbon cable, CAT5, level 6, you name it.

I am going to take the faceplate off my Eagle's ALPINE unit as well as another I have and see how it would work. If it looks ok, I'm going for it.

Geesh, this place has been good - tips on speaker locations and types, tips on where to put the USB and AUX, cool.
I'll get there - THANKS TO ALL (yeah, even you, dude - HAHA - just kidding. The idea on USB did give me the idea of putting it in the CONSOLE if I get that sort of a radio system.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 2:17pm
THANK YOU KEN! That picture is priceless - YEA, NO SPEAKER MOUNT at all. Was this a no-radio car, perhaps? Or maybe it had speakers in the rear deck at some point?? Or there was a mount and the PO removed it like he did everything else he didn't like or understand???

Blast, I see in your photo one other thing I'm missing - mouse nest. I wonder if I can buy one of those locally??  Oh, wait, you said to ignore that part. OK, the TSM didn't say anything about the nest ,not supposed to be there, I guess.

What did the speaker bracket screw to?? Hard to tell in that pic.
Did it screw to the firewall in the front? And dash structure at the rear?
I have Eagle speaker brackets maybe I could adapt - or make one, whatever. But you are correct, I have NO front speaker bracket at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

THANK YOU KEN! That picture is priceless - YEA, NO SPEAKER MOUNT at all. Was this a no-radio car, perhaps? Or maybe it had speakers in the rear deck at some point?? Or there was a mount and the PO removed it like he did everything else he didn't like or understand???

Blast, I see in your photo one other thing I'm missing - mouse nest. I wonder if I can buy one of those locally??  Oh, wait, you said to ignore that part. OK, the TSM didn't say anything about the nest ,not supposed to be there, I guess.

What did the speaker bracket screw to?? Hard to tell in that pic.
Did it screw to the firewall in the front? And dash structure at the rear?
I have Eagle speaker brackets maybe I could adapt - or make one, whatever. But you are correct, I have NO front speaker bracket at all.
There is, or was, a nut and stud fastener on the firewall right in the split of the defroster vent. The mount is V shaped at the firewall end and slips down into the split. The other end uses two J clips to screw to the top of the center stack. I have yet to see a big body without that speaker mount, even radio delete cars, as it also provides a structural tie for the top of the center stack to the firewall. My guess is the PO tossed it. Put up a wanted ad?

I would be glad to pack up a mouse nest for you so you can get your car back to (live)stock condition. LOL

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 3:26pm
I got one, already pulled. That is one reason why I have not taken pix. Just 90% stripped down. That's why I was so quick at measurements for the console shifter.

Oh your amc radio sort of needs the speaker mount. There is a wee bracket on Javelin radios. Not critical, but it should releave strain on the controls. If you get a non Javelin radio you can add a wee bracket to screw in from the speaker holder / frame.
71 Javelin SST body
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rms827 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 4:18pm
Bill, no poking fun at the glove box!  I'l have you know my Rambler has a good 3 or 4 square inches of space it it's glove box, ROFL.

As far as using Cat5 cable...  I've never seen a stereo setup that takes it.  Guess they're out there though.  One thing to keep in mind though; Cat5 and later cables (we're on Cat7e or 8 now IIRC) don't have the greatest signal shielding.  Computers don't run on high voltages after all.

Ergo if anybody goes that route, first get a shielded cable.  The "e" types typically are. Then ideally get some further shielding to wrap around the wire.  That way you avoid any feedback from the ignition system or other electrical devices in the car.

Newer cars can be really fun in terms of feedback and signal interference.  We'd seen cases of things like neon ground effect lighting generating signals that interfered with the PCM (engine computer) signal.  Great fun, LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 6:06pm
The twists give cross-talk and other protections. there's a spec xx number of twists per foot or whatever it is. Gig will run fine over Cat5. Level 6 was the highest we used in our rack except for the fiber. (we ran a fiber switch for the drive shelf and controller)

I was referring to using the Cat5 or similar twisted pair to do what many others have done - extend the faceplate away from the radio itself. Not a cable with RJ5 ends
I was reading some posts on stereo and car forums where they used network cables to make cables to extend the faceplate from the radio. A number of people have used the twisted pair wires for that. (not referring to the cables with the AT&T RJ5 ends, but the bulk cable itself)
I have pretty much any cable, like said, from 5 to 6, shielded, maybe even some 50 
Those guys used network cables and did fine. We're talking control signals for the most part, except for those with USB in the faceplate, then you ARE sending the streaming info across it.
BTW - I have some 5e cable and it's not shielded..........
If I do such a setup the cable would be extremely short, like three or four inches. Just enough to get through the face of the dash. the radio itself would be mounted in the same place as stock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 6:20pm
One example using ribbon cable - perhaps like used in the old computers for the drives? I didn't read that part or that far...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/85-fj60-remote-faceplate-stereo-install.816807/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73LevisX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 6:40pm
Glad to hear you’re going for it billd!

I definitely didn’t use the CAT5/6 Network Cable. I sacrificed an old DB25. I think, iircc, there were 16 contacts. I soldered and then hot glued the cable to the deck and faceplate etc.

On a related note, I didn’t want to cut door or other panels in my car. So... I did a fibreglass kick panel mod. I built rings for 6 1/2” woofers and mounted them on a spare kick panel on small pedestals with enough depth for the woofer. I stretched an old tshirt across and coated it with fibreglass (a couple coats was all it took) and plan to sand and paint it interior colour matching. This made a decent cavity for either a coaxial 61/2 or, what I did, a 2way component set with tweeter surface mounted. I added a pickup truck, low profile, 10” sub box in the hatch and power it all with an Alpine 3554 - 150WRMS (4ohm) x 1 to the sub and 75WRMSx2 (4ohm) to the components. It sounds great!

I too did the IASCA car stereo thing in the late 80’s. This isn’t an SPL competitor - LOL - but the old school Japanese Alpine stuff is hard to beat for quality and is what I’m most familiar with. Not to mention that you can pick it up cheap on eBay and CL usually.

Can’t wait to see how yours turns out.
Chuck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 7:19pm
I may have to see if my 1980s EQ and amps still work. the nice speakers have long since lost their foam and got tossed. I kept the subs but I see one of them has a small hole in the foam.
I have the DIN cables, EQ and both amps from my Jeep Comanche.

As far as the dash speaker bracket - I can sure see how that made the structure more solid. When I got mine all apart I noted how FLIMSY the framework was  - what was left in the car wobbled a lot and seems to have no support. I also couldn't see how the radio would have been braced, surrounded by thin plastic on the sides and bottom - but it makes sense that the radio clipped to that speaker bracket. 
I found the stud at the front - on the firewall below the glass between the defrost duct Y part and the two clips or nuts for the screws at the rear. Why in the world did the PO take that brace or bracket off and leave it off????
Now I need to MAKE one - started going back together with parts of it but ran out of day.
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