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radio for 73 Jav..... |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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In this instance the factory speaker is gone. On this car they carved up the doors, carved up the dash, put in a large aftermarket radio, put oversized speakers in the door, and use the old speaker mounting bracket as a place to attach their back support strap. Shade tree engineering at its finest. |
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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I had wondered about that solution as I've seen guys do this with Honda and other cars, one guy had a chevy pickup where he jammed a huge AC system in his dash and had no room for a standard radio, PERIOD.
They all talk of using CAT5 or similar, and rigging a cable allowing the radio to be anywhere, and the faceplate stuck to the dash any place they wanted it. I'm REALLY thinking of this after seeing other forums (mostly car stereo forums and foreign car forums) do this and now YOU said you did it?? That brings it closer to home - an AMC'er and a forum member did it and it worked. I am a former IT network admin - and I have shielded cable up the wazoo anything from 50 pair to 4 pair, ribbon cable, CAT5, level 6, you name it. I am going to take the faceplate off my Eagle's ALPINE unit as well as another I have and see how it would work. If it looks ok, I'm going for it. Geesh, this place has been good - tips on speaker locations and types, tips on where to put the USB and AUX, cool. I'll get there - THANKS TO ALL (yeah, even you, dude - HAHA - just kidding. The idea on USB did give me the idea of putting it in the CONSOLE if I get that sort of a radio system.)
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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THANK YOU KEN! That picture is priceless - YEA, NO SPEAKER MOUNT at all. Was this a no-radio car, perhaps? Or maybe it had speakers in the rear deck at some point?? Or there was a mount and the PO removed it like he did everything else he didn't like or understand???
Blast, I see in your photo one other thing I'm missing - mouse nest. I wonder if I can buy one of those locally?? Oh, wait, you said to ignore that part. OK, the TSM didn't say anything about the nest ,not supposed to be there, I guess. What did the speaker bracket screw to?? Hard to tell in that pic. Did it screw to the firewall in the front? And dash structure at the rear? I have Eagle speaker brackets maybe I could adapt - or make one, whatever. But you are correct, I have NO front speaker bracket at all. |
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pit crew
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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I would be glad to pack up a mouse nest for you so you can get your car back to (live)stock condition. LOL |
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73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
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I got one, already pulled. That is one reason why I have not taken pix. Just 90% stripped down. That's why I was so quick at measurements for the console shifter.
Oh your amc radio sort of needs the speaker mount. There is a wee bracket on Javelin radios. Not critical, but it should releave strain on the controls. If you get a non Javelin radio you can add a wee bracket to screw in from the speaker holder / frame. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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rms827
AMC Nut Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Bill, no poking fun at the glove box! I'l have you know my Rambler has a good 3 or 4 square inches of space it it's glove box, ROFL.
As far as using Cat5 cable... I've never seen a stereo setup that takes it. Guess they're out there though. One thing to keep in mind though; Cat5 and later cables (we're on Cat7e or 8 now IIRC) don't have the greatest signal shielding. Computers don't run on high voltages after all. Ergo if anybody goes that route, first get a shielded cable. The "e" types typically are. Then ideally get some further shielding to wrap around the wire. That way you avoid any feedback from the ignition system or other electrical devices in the car. Newer cars can be really fun in terms of feedback and signal interference. We'd seen cases of things like neon ground effect lighting generating signals that interfered with the PCM (engine computer) signal. Great fun, LOL. |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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The twists give cross-talk and other protections. there's a spec xx number of twists per foot or whatever it is. Gig will run fine over Cat5. Level 6 was the highest we used in our rack except for the fiber. (we ran a fiber switch for the drive shelf and controller)
I was referring to using the Cat5 or similar twisted pair to do what many others have done - extend the faceplate away from the radio itself. Not a cable with RJ5 ends I was reading some posts on stereo and car forums where they used network cables to make cables to extend the faceplate from the radio. A number of people have used the twisted pair wires for that. (not referring to the cables with the AT&T RJ5 ends, but the bulk cable itself) I have pretty much any cable, like said, from 5 to 6, shielded, maybe even some 50 Those guys used network cables and did fine. We're talking control signals for the most part, except for those with USB in the faceplate, then you ARE sending the streaming info across it. BTW - I have some 5e cable and it's not shielded.......... If I do such a setup the cable would be extremely short, like three or four inches. Just enough to get through the face of the dash. the radio itself would be mounted in the same place as stock. |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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One example using ribbon cable - perhaps like used in the old computers for the drives? I didn't read that part or that far...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/85-fj60-remote-faceplate-stereo-install.816807/ |
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73LevisX
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: May/23/2009 Location: Ottawa, ON Status: Offline Points: 232 |
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Glad to hear you’re going for it billd!
I definitely didn’t use the CAT5/6 Network Cable. I sacrificed an old DB25. I think, iircc, there were 16 contacts. I soldered and then hot glued the cable to the deck and faceplate etc. On a related note, I didn’t want to cut door or other panels in my car. So... I did a fibreglass kick panel mod. I built rings for 6 1/2” woofers and mounted them on a spare kick panel on small pedestals with enough depth for the woofer. I stretched an old tshirt across and coated it with fibreglass (a couple coats was all it took) and plan to sand and paint it interior colour matching. This made a decent cavity for either a coaxial 61/2 or, what I did, a 2way component set with tweeter surface mounted. I added a pickup truck, low profile, 10” sub box in the hatch and power it all with an Alpine 3554 - 150WRMS (4ohm) x 1 to the sub and 75WRMSx2 (4ohm) to the components. It sounds great! I too did the IASCA car stereo thing in the late 80’s. This isn’t an SPL competitor - LOL - but the old school Japanese Alpine stuff is hard to beat for quality and is what I’m most familiar with. Not to mention that you can pick it up cheap on eBay and CL usually. Can’t wait to see how yours turns out. Chuck. |
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'73 Hornet X
304/904 |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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I may have to see if my 1980s EQ and amps still work. the nice speakers have long since lost their foam and got tossed. I kept the subs but I see one of them has a small hole in the foam.
I have the DIN cables, EQ and both amps from my Jeep Comanche. As far as the dash speaker bracket - I can sure see how that made the structure more solid. When I got mine all apart I noted how FLIMSY the framework was - what was left in the car wobbled a lot and seems to have no support. I also couldn't see how the radio would have been braced, surrounded by thin plastic on the sides and bottom - but it makes sense that the radio clipped to that speaker bracket. I found the stud at the front - on the firewall below the glass between the defrost duct Y part and the two clips or nuts for the screws at the rear. Why in the world did the PO take that brace or bracket off and leave it off???? Now I need to MAKE one - started going back together with parts of it but ran out of day. |
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