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radio for 73 Jav.....

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mrblatzman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrblatzman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 9:46am
Thanks for the information Ken/pit crew.....Bob
Thankyou....Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 10:06am
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Originally posted by mrblatzman mrblatzman wrote:

Could someone please explain what the term DIN means???   Bob Reno in Alabama
Sure Bob,

It an industry standard measurement for modern car audio devices.

DIN refers to size 2″ x 8″ opening that a radio fits into. DIN stands for Duetch Industri Normen which the Germans starting using to standardize the radio's in Audi's, BMW's, Mercedes, VW's way back in the mid 80's.
It has since become the industry standard. DOUBLE DIN is the same width of 8″ but is 4″ instead of 2″

The US standard for a DIN radio is 6.83" x 2" (although the actual 180 mm width converts to something like 7-3/32" so most people use 7-1/8" to allow for clearance)
 and the Double DIN sized radio is a 7" x 4".

So once again "standard" does not always mean standard.


While as Compressor Controls Corp, I worked with a fellow who was a university professor of computer science who wanted to take a break from teaching to actually work in the field. So he worked with me in IT - he did programming, etc. 
I loved his comments on standards:
The nice thing about computer standards is that there are so many of them to choose from.

DIN - not so far off from that!
Now on the Javelin dash I measured from the far right edge of where the tach stops - where the gauge mounting plastic ends on the right, to the right edge of the cluster face or bezel where it transitions to the next part of the dash that goes back and to the right.......
6.5"
That means even USA DIN standard is WAAY too big. If you cut for our DIN standard you'll be either into the gauges or into the other part of the dash, off the right edge of the cluster face or bezel. 
We've probably all seen on eBay "Javelin cluster, cut for radio" and you look and it's a big rectangular hole that goes clear off the right end of the cluster - it's open on the end. They ran out of room and it looks like #%#$$! plus it ruins the integrity.

You have to mount a shell that the system slides into and it's bigger than 6.8x - ask how I know... My SX4 had a DIN system center pod so I thought cool, a DIN Alpine head unit will fit. Nope - had to do some work. And depth - hahaha - it smacks the defroster duct in the back and the wires make a HARD angle out. 

I can see I'm not going to have anything within a couple of days, so it goes back together sans radio and I'll just take it apart again if I order something. At least next time it will have the correct screws and be put together correctly and not come apart so bad. 

the must-haves are Bluetooth, AM/FM/MP3 (USB) 
and frankly the shops are saying Bluetooth isn't even a standard any more - because so many people stream from a phone or whatever. If you want it, they may have to order it that way.
My phone is for calls, I used a GPS device for GPS, and I want my phone to be hands-free for talking (though I normally pull over for calls or don't answer unless I'm stopped) so Bluetooth is a must - besides, it can be used to stream from another device, not just phone calls.
I could actually do without FM because there's nothing on FM I care to listen to............. not around here. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 10:10am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Billd, you are to use remote extension adapters to connect to the aux and usb ports on stereos.

Basically you can place the remote ports under the dash on a mounting tab or for a cleaner look make use of the glove box for USB stick access.



You know what the glove boxes are like, right? Ha  Wink - once that is back together that stupid glove box AMC made a mockery of may as well be glued shut. I will never open it again except for access to cables and wires. That is among the worst ideas AMC ever had - that stupid joke of a glove box on the floor pointed to the passenger and not enclosed.
I have a mini-USB stick in my Eagle system and it sticks out only a quarter inch - now THAT's a clean look. No extra cables stuck in the dash, nothing else to mount. Ideally - the ideal system has the ports on the FRONT, right where I want them, NO extra cables to dangle or tie up. 
Clean is where it's all integrated and a tiny mini-USB is in the port.
For aux use - that's not so bad as I'd not use that too often. And since aux is for MP3 players you don't want a cable dangling in your way from the front of the system, that's fine elsewhere. In my Eagle I ran the iPod connection cable into the glovebox. But it has a decent glovebox the driver can get to and big enough to hold a lot of stuff.


Well, that is why I mentioned the glove box.

Though, I rarely ever need to pull out an external storage device once I install it, as i have over 55 GB of recordings of our CDs v we have collected since the late 80's.

With a USB stick or even SD card, you can store as many songs as you have room to store them.

You may look into Bluetooth media player option. You can stream from your smart phone. Stereo options don't need much for complexity. A smaller amp 30w+30w or 45w+45w amp would fit where in the glove box.

I have an old portable usb, MP3 player with SD card storage. The option was simple and small, as it fits nicely in the 71 Javelin ashtray compartment. Just have to connect earphone jack to amp via adapter cable. To make it powered by car, a simple 3.3v charger with 2 1n4001 diodes in series as my 1.6v power source, connected to accessory. Some devices use more voltage and may not need the two diodes, or a larger supply voltage like a phone charger, at 5v.





Edited by 304-dude - Apr/20/2018 at 10:15am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 10:12am
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Bill,

I just did an install on a 72 a few week ago so it is some what fresh in my mind.

The 72 has door pockets so the owner did not want to cut in door speakers. Instead we installed one DUAL VOICE COIL speaker in the factory dash location and two speakers in the factory locations in the rear package shelf. The separation and balance are surprising good with this configuration and you retain both left to right and back to front adjustment. I have used this same "three" speaker configuration for the 68-70 AMXs and the owners have been very please with the results.

Also be sure to get the smaller radio knobs. They offer all these fancy knobs but the right hand side is so close to the dash pad you have to use their smaller knobs or you may have a clearance issue.

As far as USB. The best option is to use an USB extension cable to get down to the glove box and use that as the access point. That way the USB stick is out of sight and it removes the temptation from anyone walking past the car. Ditto for the AUX cables. No ports on the front of the radio keeps it more "stock" looking. I think RetroSound sells an USB cable that ends in a surface mount that could be mounted on an inconspicuous location of the dash if you really wanted fast access.

You would be surprised at how well 25 watts covers the inside of the car. I suspect from the way it performs that is really closer to a true 25 watts than what other manufactures claim for their products.

If all else fails you could do the old "mount a monster amp" under the rear package shelf trick. The downside there is your not sure if the exhaust or the radio made you deaf.  LOL

  




GREAT TIP on the speakers - thanks! I hadn't thought of that. I used to do the car stereo contests in the 1980s but that was YEARS AND YEARS AGO and things have changed. 

I use the mini-USB sticks, they barely stick out of a port at all. In my Eagle you can hardly tell I have one in there. I don't use the full-length USB devices except in my pickup where the USP port is in the console. I guess there's an option - mount it in the console....... hmmmmmm........... I'm still thinking of a custom lid for the console with a cup holder so I could do USB there, or just in the front of the console. Yeah, I like that idea. And the cable would go straight down from the radio, to the floor, then straight back to the console. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 10:29am
Another small option that works well, especially when you still hear the sound of the lower RPMs while cruising.

A powered self contained sub that allows connecting to the powered speakers for signal pickup. Most self contained units have various hookup options. Even wireless. Just need to run a power cable to where you mount the speaker. My cousin, mounted his under the seat, as they are made betwen 3.5" and 4".

As pictured my Pitcrew you can mount it on a wooden back board along with your amp. Just be sure to put thick felt between the wood or mounting brackets if mounted directly, and the back shelf or devider frame.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 11:18am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

GREAT TIP on the speakers - thanks! I hadn't thought of that. I used to do the car stereo contests in the 1980s but that was YEARS AND YEARS AGO and things have changed. 

I use the mini-USB sticks, they barely stick out of a port at all. In my Eagle you can hardly tell I have one in there. I don't use the full-length USB devices except in my pickup where the USP port is in the console. I guess there's an option - mount it in the console....... hmmmmmm........... I'm still thinking of a custom lid for the console with a cup holder so I could do USB there, or just in the front of the console. Yeah, I like that idea. And the cable would go straight down from the radio, to the floor, then straight back to the console. 
The good news here is that your coming up with a number of ideas on how to accomplish your goal and you are not hitting a dead end, yet. LOL

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 11:25am
OK, I can see the advantage of having USB stuck in the console, even run AUX to the console. I had forgotten it even had a console - maybe because it didn't until a couple of weeks ago - ha.

So if there's ports on the back, that's where I'd run 'em - to the console.

Ken/pit crew - WHAT SIZE speaker did you run in the dash - the dual-voice coil?
There's precious little room, looks like a small oval, 5.5 x 6" perhaps?
The dash is busteed up and patched pretty badly and thye PO has put some sort of blue epoxy like stuff around the speaker hole to stabilize it and the speaker filler grill that AMC has there has an ear broken off and the area of where that broken off or missing ear would go is all epoxied.
So I can't do much messing with that area unless I want to spend another grand for more dash parts that are probably not much better than mine are.
Depending on how you measure, it's almost round, maybe a half inch off from being round, 6x6.5 of 5.5 x 6"
Just wondering what you used, where you got it, what size and so on. 
I'm afraid tr look in the trunk - it's scary back there, holes, rust, trunk gasket really nasty - could be things alive - or worse, dead - back there, but I'll see what speakers are needed back there.
I don't have pockets on the door panels, but hate to cut these totally uncut panels - they are the best part of the interior except the carpet and FRONT seats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 1:18pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Another small option that works well, especially when you still hear the sound of the lower RPMs while cruising.

A powered self contained sub that allows connecting to the powered speakers for signal pickup. Most self contained units have various hookup options. Even wireless. Just need to run a power cable to where you mount the speaker. My cousin, mounted his under the seat, as they are made betwen 3.5" and 4".

As pictured my Pitcrew you can mount it on a wooden back board along with your amp. Just be sure to put thick felt between the wood or mounting brackets if mounted directly, and the back shelf or devider frame.


Nope - you take the signal for the subs directly from an EQ or other device, not pick the signal up from other speakers.
I KNOW how to build enclosures, how to mount, how NOT to mount, how to wire, etc. as I used to do contests and had a massive Alpine system I put together in the 80s.

I had ten speakers,  two large subs, two amps (one dedicated to the subs at 220 watts and the other was something like 300 watts to drive the other speakers)
The subs were in an enclosure I made using a computer program to design the size, etc.
I used high-density particle board and covered it with material that matched EXACTLY the carpet in the Jeep.
the other speakers were driven by the EQ output. There were four up front and four at the cab corners. (two mid-range and two tweeters in the doors and two mid-range and two tweeters just back of the seats)
I made guides for the rear tweeters to direct the sound since highs are very directional.
I carried screwdrivers and allen wrenches to put mirrors back and tighten screws every few weeks.
I had ten gauge wire feeding each amp and a 35 amp breaker for each amp under the hood. Power came directly from the battery area.
DIN cable connected the head unit to the EQ, etc. and I had the passive cross-overs mounted on the ends of the sub enclosure which fit BARELY behind the seat - back of the seat against the rear of the cab. I made a holder for the jack and jack handle on the top of the sub enclosure since I took their space with the subs. 
The whole thing was something like $3500 if I recall.......... and I'm still paying for it with hearing aid batteries. 
Every single contest I finished a two, never a one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Another small option that works well, especially when you still hear the sound of the lower RPMs while cruising.

A powered self contained sub that allows connecting to the powered speakers for signal pickup. Most self contained units have various hookup options. Even wireless. Just need to run a power cable to where you mount the speaker. My cousin, mounted his under the seat, as they are made betwen 3.5" and 4".

As pictured my Pitcrew you can mount it on a wooden back board along with your amp. Just be sure to put thick felt between the wood or mounting brackets if mounted directly, and the back shelf or devider frame.



Nope - you take the signal for the subs directly from an EQ or other device, not pick the signal up from other speakers.
I have ten speakers, two large subs, two amps (one dedicated to the subs at 220 watts and the other was something like 300 watts to drive the other speakers)
The subs were in an enclosure I made using a computer program to design the size, etc.
I used high-density particle board and covered it with material that matched EXACTLY the carpet in the Jeep.
the other speakers were driven by the EQ output. There were four up front and four at the cab corners. (two mid-range and two tweeters in the doors and two mid-range and two tweeters just back of the seats)
I made guides for the rear tweeters to direct the sound since highs are very directional.
I carried screwdrivers and allen wrenches to put mirrors back and tighten screws every few weeks.
I had ten gauge wire feeding each amp and a 35 amp breaker for each amp under the hood. Power came directly from the battery area.
DIN cable connected the head unit to the EQ, etc. and I had the cross-overs mounted on the ends of the sub enclosure which fit BARELY behind the seat - back of the seat against the rear of the cab. I made a holder for the jack and jack handle on the top of the sub enclosure since I took their space with the subs. 
The whole thing was something like $3500 if I recall.......... and I'm still paying for it with hearing aid batteries. 
Every single contest I finished a two, never a one. 


Yep, but like I said some have multiple ways to hook up an audio connection depending on how limited you are.

Just saying with the unit I have, it allows less wires to be ran to the back if you already have the speakers setup.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73LevisX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 1:38pm
Assuming that the twin shaft mounting location is the same size as my Hornet. Should be right?

I used a removable face DIN head unit (Alpine from the early 2000's) and made a custom cable (think DB25 or maybe even CAT5/6 would work) that ran between the faceplate and the head unit. I soldered a connection between each pin on the faceplate and head unit and mounted the head unit remotely in the glovebox. This allowed me to remotely control the head unit and I was able to simply stick/glue the faceplate over the old twin-shaft opening on the dash. The faceplate is only about 1/2" thick so looks good.

So far it works well. The only PITA is the fact that you have to lean over to change CD's. But, I'm sure you can find a new head unit with USB or Bluetooth that will allow you to play from memory stick or Smart Phone and would mitigate this. My solution is that I have a 6 CD Changer that I will mount at some point that will, at least, offer multiple more tracks between changes.

I already had the head unit and amplifiers so the solution was cost effective in my case.

'73 Hornet X
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