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radio for 73 Jav..... |
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billd 
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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 Posted: May/01/2018 at 8:32pm |
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I wish I had done the right door panel the way I cleaned up the left - so the right door will come apart again as far as door panel for better cleaning and such.
anyway, it's not the loudness, it's the sound quality. I became a believer when I put my system into my Comanche back in 87. I was hearing things I never heard in my music before - instruments, vocals, it all came alive. It wasn't the loudness as much as the accuracy of the reproduction. The ability to hear those things you never heard before WITHOUT cranking it. It sounded all so real, tympani, cymbals, wow. you could even actually finally understand some of the lyrics! I am putting this system together with no amps and without the EQ, just so I can get the bloody thing done and out of my shop and get back to OTHER things. I did mount the radio in the dash today - and plugged things in and turned it on and WOW. Even without amps, without the EQ, it sounded NICE. Not as good as my Jeep did back then (but I had over $3600 invested in that system) but for some reason it sounds a lot better than my Eagle - so the Eagle may get an UPGRADE soon - at least that one is DIN and I'll go NON-CD in that one when I re-do it. (I have an Alpine unit and Alpine speakers but it still just isn't right - maybe the stock factory wiring is a problem) I have the system in the Javelin tucked back in the dash behind the face - I can reach through the stock radio hole to get to some things but at least I can use it until I get the cable made to move the faceplate out. I can reach through the radio hole and do most things and will be able to remove the faceplate out through the stock hole when I get the dash all back together so I have some time on the faceplate cable. I had a cable made but used stiff wires (stripped from network cable) and it was just too stiff for those fragile soldered connections. So I supposed I do over with stranded wires or something. It worked - until a couple of wires popped loose (and the fact I was holding it in place because the connectors are normally held together when the faceplate CLIPS to the radio so they don't normally stay together on their own - the one pops out of the other so will have to address that issue. Now trying to put the dang dash back together. Ugh, what a mess.
Edited by billd - May/01/2018 at 8:36pm |
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rms827
AMC Nut 
Joined: Apr/18/2018 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: May/01/2018 at 8:50pm |
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It's almost over, Bill.
 Completely agree on the sound quality issue also. Air tools and revving engines were hard enough on my hearing as it was. |
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1964 AMC Rambler Classic 660
"You can think I'm an idiot, just don't talk to me like I'm one." - Batman |
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: May/01/2018 at 9:03pm |
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Them alpine radios with tape player and remote 10 CD changer box, is what what i had, and looks very close to yours billd. The button scheme was like that in the early 90s.
Peeps still used cassettes back then, and one wonderful thing was 20hz to 20khz frequency response on the tape player. I used TDK type IV. Still have one or two. Made recordings from LPs which sounded cleaner than the enhanced CDs I had. Nothing like a nice tuner and descent speakers, with proper enclosures. Now you kind of know why a mentioned to gut a unit, expecting to find a dead parts unit on fleabay. The main thing was to allow a proper clip in connection for the remote face. But anywho, i am sure you'll get it right soon. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: May/01/2018 at 9:31pm |
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Why buy a unit and gut it, to get $8 worth of parts....?
I can buy new that cheap. Frankly, USED parts would be a royal pain because I'd have to disassemble the unit, unsolder the parts - a pain and you end up with messy connectors, not necessarily in good shape. Taking apart a radio to salvage such VERY VERY small parts isn't worth it - I'd cut parts, first (a new one would be stupid to do that to, and used ones? It would need to be very specific models - still very pricey) It's a craps shoot as far as the parts being usable if salvaged and it's just not worth it when you can buy new.
Nope, that option was never on the table. |
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: May/02/2018 at 4:12am |
Oh, i thought you did not mind doing such a thing... now I know. For me it would be no problem. I guess I am use to finding broken or dead electronics for a good price. It was just a thought, though I should know better by know, you probably have thought of every direction, and made the simplest choice for connecting. Any who, i was thinking ribbon cable, since it flexes good and there are many various pin headers and pitches, for connections that may allow soldering a header to the connector that fits your removable head unit control. As in making an interface. This way any strain is only at the connector not the wire. I know you have a good understanding, just thought an extra idea may add to your thought process not be an aggravation. Don't want to make it out that my way or what ever is better, |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: May/02/2018 at 6:25am |
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This isn't the time to spend time looking for that right, CHEAP used head unit and spending time salvaging parts when new ones are available.
Ribbon cable - thought of that but no, then you have a wide cable that only flexes in certain ways - it would be 20 wires wide- and the wires would be PARALLEL - perfect for introducing troubles. Ribbon cables are fine for certain applications, but also trying to separate the conductors to solder onto two parallel rows of ten each and then flexing it - too much hassle. Soldering to the leads on the connectors would be more of a pain than other wires.
The connectors for the Alpine face place are proprietary, as is the spacing. I've checked around and there isn't any choice but directly soldering the wires. They are surface mount connectors, meant to connect to a PC board directly. Well, one is surface mount and the other appears to be half surface mount, half hole, the way the leads are arranged. On the female portion, the leads are so extremely close together and arranged weird, I had to literally straighten out one row of pins just to gain access to the other as one row was over top of the other. That's why I suspect one row was intended to be surface mount and the other row through holes. The male version was surface mount as they were laid out flat. Ribbon cable was just too much of a pain due to pin layout and the extremely fine wires - too risky and too inflexible. |
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: May/02/2018 at 6:44am |
I hear you about the connector issues and all. Been there done that. Really I am not trying to thwart your idea. As for flat ribbon cables... UDMA 66 flat ribbon cable for older hard disks, has twice the pitch as standard 40 pin cable. Every other pin is ground by the connector head or, even or odd pins (can't remember off hand, probably odd pins) being grounded. It's enough to keep cross talk from happening. After all most of the signals in head units, are on off momentary, some linear analog, with a few data links for security if digital. You can shield it by a wrap of aluminum foil and securing with packing tape for protection. Or spend money in shielded flat ribbon cable, which is a wee thicker. As for bends, fold over in various angles can allow complex bending without compromising much in flatness. But all this is just ideas not a text book and lecture. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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MR291
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Joined: Aug/21/2018 Location: kingston Status: Offline Points: 94 |
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Posted: Jan/02/2019 at 6:11pm |
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What did you decide on as to what to run between the door and the cowl side for the speaker wiring. Doing the same and trying to keep it looking stock. Thanks.
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Ruby loye
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Joined: Jul/15/2012 Location: wa state Status: Offline Points: 793 |
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Posted: Jan/03/2019 at 9:13am |
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Ok guys, love the post. Stupid question, what is DIN?
I have a new/old system Pioneer/100W to go into my 65 Classic, it was originally going to go into a 64, but when the guy said he had to cut the dash to make it fit, I took the unit home to decide how to hook it up. So I went to the place where he said he would have to cut and there are all sorts of unseen under dash holes accessible. So glad I did not get it installed. For one that car went down the road 10 years ago and I have a donor Sony deck if I choose to use it. I think I am going to put it either under my seat or in the glove box. That would save me having to find a box liner. I will just retro fit something and paint it black, Mick Jagger was onto something. Enjoy your tunes, even if it only the factory V8! Mark
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pit crew
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Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Posted: Jan/03/2019 at 9:25pm |
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 73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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billd wrote: