I thought I would share the install that I did on my car and Wooster Kevin has done on his. Most of this is based on the experience I've garnered over the past 6+ years since I've put mine in.
My install was a retrofit done with the engine in it while his was done when the car was being restored so everything was open. One difference being where the bulkhead connector is on the firewall. Mine is close to where the original heater hoses came thru while his further to the right coming out in the wheel well. That allowed the hoses to be mostly hidden and the engine compartment to be kept much cleaner looking. I'll keep adding to this as I remember more details or answer questions. Hopefully it will give some of you ideas on how to do this yourself.
Javelin A/C Install parts list (partial)
Gen II ComPac - Heat Cool and Defrost - 68000-VUZ-A Base Model Horizontal 4-Lever Control Panel - 49110-SHQ Sanden SD 709 Compressor Double V-groove pulley Standard Finish - 04709-VUA Horizontal SuperFlow Condenser 14 IN. tall x 24 IN - 03263-VUC Louver for 2.5-Inch Hose 3.875-Inch x 2-Inch All Black - 49327-VUL are what I used w/o factory A/C. Will need 2.5" duct hose. I used a 4-Way Diamond Bulkhead Plate for AC and Heater since it was in the engine compartment but others could be used. A hose and drier kit depending upon what they want to use. I use a trianry switch with electric fans. They will need to find 3 groove pulleys for the crank and water pump. They will need a York to Sanden adapter plate. They
will need to upgrade the alternator if they use electric fans. They
will need to use a double pulley on the alternator so that you have
double belts. Ford Contour fans fit the Javelin radiators perfectly.
I highly recommend using a Sanden SD 709 7 cylinder compressor (04709-VUA) to avoid the possibility of having harmonics in your lines. It happened to me using the 5 cylinder compressor on the 304 that use to be in the car. At times there would be a moaning noise in the A/C lines and a guy from Vintage Air confirmed that was what is was and the only real fix was to switch compressors. If anybody is interested in buying any Vintage Air, I have a
VERY good dealer to work with and I always recommend him. He's worked several guys on here now doing this. I doubt
you'll beat his price too. Call Andy at A Plus Rod and Custom. Tell him
Keith sent you. The guy with the Hemi Javelin. https://www.aplusrodandkustom.com" rel="nofollow - https://www.aplusrodandkustom.com/
Something that you must understand if you're going to do this, you need to spend time and money to insulate your car as well. The reason is because this unit is to small for the size of the car and if you push it hard, the evaporator core can freeze up. It's happened to me several times. Insulating the car and tinting the windows helps the unit keep the car cool inside even while driving across the desert in 100° + temps.
Here's a few of the insulating materials I used on my car and Kevin has as well as you can see in some of the pictures below.
DEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II as a radiant barrier.
http://designengineering.com/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-extreme-heat-shield/" rel="nofollow - http://designengineering.com/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-extreme-heat-shield/
Boom Mat Under Carpet Lite. I have a ton of this in my car. This stuff is amazing on what can do for only a 1/2" thick. http://designengineering.com/under-carpet-lite-sound-absorbtion-insulation/" rel="nofollow - http://designengineering.com/under-carpet-lite-sound-absorbtion-insulation/ You can use this stuff in many places including above your headliner for a cooler, quieter car.
The pictures below are a mix of my install and Kevin's install. Since there's no windshield in Kevin's car yet, it made it easy to photograph.
Here are pictures of the unit installed behind the dash. It's tight but it fits.
Note that we installed a support bar across the front of the unit with 2 straps holding it up to the firewall. The rear hanger is a couple of pictures down.
Here is we installed the rear hanger.
Here is Kevin's bulkhead connector. It's about 4" to the right than mine is.
This picture shows how nice the factory defroster duct fits right over the defroster outlets on the unit. I put some foam around the bottom of the duct to fill some of the gap but it's not really needed as the air will push upwards. The defrost works well on a dew covered or foggy window!
Now the unit is mounted into the car, you'll need to block off the hole in the cowl. What I came up with was to install a plate with a plastic blast gate in it so I could still have a passenger side floor vent. A blast gate is for a dust collection system. I used a 4" if I remember right and bonded it to an aluminum plate as shown below.
I put a screw in the sliding door part of it and hooked my factory passenger side floor vent cable to it. I used the support strap to hold it with the original cable clip as well.
Here's how I route the ducting.
With only 3 outlets for the dash on the unit and 4 louvers on the dash, I used a Y from the center outlet to feed the 2 center louvers.
Here are some pictures of the way we routed the lines on Kevin's car.
Here's a picture of mine back when I put it in. You can see where the bulkhead connector is.
When Kevin was doing all the metal work on his car, he cut out the section where the holes for the fan motor and heater hoses came thru and welded new metal in there. Here's how I covered that section with the engine still in the car. I cut out the ribbed area so the firewall was smooth. I cut a panel to cover the whole area and used body panel adheasive to bond it to the firewall. Seam sealed and painted it.
I'll get some pictures of how I mounted the louvers in the dash and the part numbers for them.
Here's the louvers in my dash pad.
I used a Vintage Air 49327-VUL louver in all 4 locations. My dash face didn't have air so I cut the opening in and snapped the louver in. On the pad I had to trim something out a little and these fit right in but wouldn't stay so I used some clear silicone to hold them in as you can see. It was really easy to do. If your dash pad doesn't have air, I don't see why you couldn't cut the openings and pop the louvers in by themselves.
The last thing is the control head. I used the standard slider type since resembles the original but I didn't like the look of it being on top of the filler plate. I had a filler plate made with all the same slots as the control head had under the sticker. I drilled and tapped the control head and mounted it to the backside of filler plate and installed a new sticker on it. Now it looks factory looking. Here's some pictures.
And the finished product.
I have a friend that I sent the CAD drawing to who has a CNC plasma table and he cut some more of them out for me. We put one in Wooster Kevin's car. If someone is interested in doing this, pm me if you're interested in buying one of these filler plates.
Here's a few pictures of the compressor on the 304 I had.
I think I covered all the bases. This is how I did it but if you can improve on it, please post it. If you have any questions, post them, or pm me.
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" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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