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199 Model 1931 Carb Questions

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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made I-6 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=98944
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Topic: 199 Model 1931 Carb Questions
Posted By: Fisherwerke
Subject: 199 Model 1931 Carb Questions
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 7:17am
Hello everyone,

I recently brought home my wife's grandfathers 1968 American that has been sitting since 1993. I am tasked with getting it running for his upcoming 80th birthday. I have a few questions though. The carb was removed over a year ago for rebuild but then was replaced with an already rebuilt unit from Rock Auto. I am not sure where a few things go so I am here for assistance.

1. How does the throttle linkage get secured? There is a hole in the shaft for a cotter pin but it does not stick down far enough to do any good. 





2. Where does this spring attach to? 


3. Finally the new carb does not have this arm and spring. The threaded bit that holds it on is not on the new carb. It was cut off. Is this necessary? The carb is an Autoline form Rock Auto. 




Replies:
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 9:15am
In the top picture a spring and washer normally go in there and the cotter pin gets put in with the hole inside the bracket, for lack of a better way of explaining it. 

Not sure on the long spring unless it has something to do with throttle return on the pedal linkage.

The short spring looks like it could be for throttle plate return making for a more positive low idle. Maybe the new one will work OK without it. 




Posted By: First_Gear
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 9:33am
On the rebuilt carburetor is there a spring around the white plastic accelerator pump that is not on the original carburetor? I'm thinking these do the same thing and are just two different styles. I believe the long spring is supposed to attach to a tab on the rotating throttle arm. It is the pedal return spring.

I see you are from grand rapids, my grandmother Marge lives there!


Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 9:42am
It looks like you are almost there in getting it to run. But after getting it going with the new carb I'd get a kit from Napa and clean up the original. Then save the new one for a spare or sell it. 


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 12:57pm
Originally posted by First_Gear First_Gear wrote:

On the rebuilt carburetor is there a spring around the white plastic accelerator pump that is not on the original carburetor? I'm thinking these do the same thing and are just two different styles. I believe the long spring is supposed to attach to a tab on the rotating throttle arm. It is the pedal return spring.

I see you are from grand rapids, my grandmother Marge lives there!

I will take a look when I get home this evening.

No kidding? Its a great city to live in. Have you visited?


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 12:58pm
Originally posted by vinny vinny wrote:

It looks like you are almost there in getting it to run. But after getting it going with the new carb I'd get a kit from Napa and clean up the original. Then save the new one for a spare or sell it. 

Already ordered a rebuild kit for the original carb. It will be staying with us for sure. 


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 3:28pm
Alright still at work but another thing crossed my mind. Where does this line go? On my car there is just a piece of tape over that port....




Posted By: rocklandrambler
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 4:27pm
That vacuum line should go to the wiper motor, provided you have vacuum wipers and not electric.

-------------
Past AMC's
1974 Hornet X (new)
1975 Gremlin X (new)
1964 Classic 660 Cross Country
1965 American 440-H


Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 5:00pm
The vacuum line from the fuel pump goes to the left side of the wiper motor. The bottom port (air inlet) of the wiper motor stays open.  


Posted By: First_Gear
Date Posted: Mar/12/2019 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by Fisherwerke Fisherwerke wrote:

I will take a look when I get home this evening.

No kidding? Its a great city to live in. Have you visited?

Yeah I was just there for New year's. Also note that the flat rod style fuel pump is no longer in production so don't take  it off unless you really need to. I'm guessing you could buy the round shaft one and swap the shafts if you really needed to.


Posted By: DocLong
Date Posted: Mar/13/2019 at 4:38am
Round and flat shafts don't interchange. I just bought a flat shaft  accelerator pump off eBay two days ago for about $20. We'll see what the quality is...


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/13/2019 at 7:22am
Thanks guys, Hoping the fuel pump is alright and I won't need to replace it. So here are a couple more photos of the issue I am having with the rebuilt carb. The threaded bit that this bushing/arm/return spring are supposed to attach to has been filed off. I did not see anywhere a different spring setup could be used but I could have missed it surely. 

Here the stock image from Rock Auto shows the part I am missing in place.


Here is my actual carb with the part filed off



Here is the old carb with the parts in place. Note: I removed the nut and washer to transfer the parts before realizing it was not possible.


Here are a few other photos of the new carb in place. Is there a second place that spring could go?




Posted By: DocLong
Date Posted: Mar/13/2019 at 7:25am
The pump I'm talking about is the accelerator pump in the carb. Not the fuel pump. 


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/13/2019 at 9:18am
Rock Auto's customer service was absolutely useless when I asked about the part problem. So I emailed Autoline themselves. They are sending me a replacement throttle plate so I can transfer the parts over. 


Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Mar/13/2019 at 1:29pm
Just my $.02 but I would send the carb back to Autoline and either make them fix it or get a refund.  The carb you thought you were purchasing was shown by Rockauto to have the correct parts, correct?  Joe

-------------
Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 9:05am
I wanted to do that obviously. Unfortunately the carb was purchased a year ago and just sat. With the distance the car was away from me and only getting up there on holidays the flaw went undetected. It did cross my mind to order another and return the flawed unit. 


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/20/2019 at 11:06am
Received the replacement throttle shaft in the mail last night. Got it replaced and back on the car and everything hooked up. We are now much closer to getting this baby running again. Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to help me sort it out. I will have plenty more!


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 4:15pm
Hi everyone,

What is the spacer under the carb called? And where can I get one? The pcv hose connects to it. Today the port broke right off while trying to remove the old crusty hose....


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 10:08pm
they usually break. it's a dumb design. if the rest of the plate is OK a cheap and solid fix is to file the broken stub flat, and drill the remaining hole just large enough to tap into place a short section of 3/8" or 5/16" steel tubing, whatever that hose wants. then JB Weld on the tube, tap it in, let it cure, and go. it'll last forever.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Aug/05/2019 at 10:42am
Hey everyone, Been away a little but need to hunker down and get this thing ready for a road test. It starts and runs but seems to have issues with the linkage still. If I rev it up it kicks the choke back on and raises the idle. I'm not sure why this is happening. Could I have a spring on incorrectly?


Posted By: Heavy 488
Date Posted: Aug/05/2019 at 11:13am
Look on the choke side of the throttle shaft. Any possibility that the lever got flipped over on the wrong side of the fast idle cam.
With the engine off, move the throttle all the way by hand. Watch the fast idle cam. Is anything interfering with it to bump it or is the choke itself pulling on it.


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Aug/05/2019 at 8:30pm
Nothing that I can see is interfering. I had some leaks to take care of and have to install the recored heater core tomorrow night. Then I can try to start it and tune it again


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/05/2019 at 9:44pm
i assume that it does this after the engine is totally warmed up, and looking down the throat of the carb, the choke plate is open all the way? if that is NOT the case, then the choke is probably just set wrong.


what's funny here is just today i installed a "new" Holley 1931 from rockauto.com on a 1968 American with 199ci. the one i pulled off had a throttle return spring built-in, on the "front" of the throttle shaft, under the bowl. the replacement does not, and relies on the return spring that pulls from the bracket bolted to the manifold.

the return spring that was on the car was too weak to actually close the throttle all the way; it didn't overcome the spring tension in the accell pump. i much prefer carbs thatr have a built-in return spring, for safety.

(i would have rebuilt my old 1931, but it's got the flat accellerator pump rod and there are literally no rebuild parts for it available.)




-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: Heavy 488
Date Posted: Aug/05/2019 at 9:52pm
Then maybe like the last post referring to a choke adjjstment. When the engine is warm, see if the butterfly is somewhat firmly held open by the choke bimetallic spring. It may be slightly off allowing the choke mechanism to flip a little. 


Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Aug/07/2019 at 9:49pm
Alright, Finally had a chance to get the heater core back in, everything reassembled, and rolled it outside to start it up. Pumped the pedal a couple times and she fired right up as usual but was idling very high. Bumped it off the fast idle cam and it died. Would not restart until the pedal/linkage was pushed and it bumped back up to the top of the fast idle. I played with the screw a little and it would run for a few seconds but then die. The only way it currently stays running is on fast idle.








Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Aug/07/2019 at 9:50pm
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

i assume that it does this after the engine is totally warmed up, and looking down the throat of the carb, the choke plate is open all the way? if that is NOT the case, then the choke is probably just set wrong.


what's funny here is just today i installed a "new" Holley 1931 from rockauto.com on a 1968 American with 199ci. the one i pulled off had a throttle return spring built-in, on the "front" of the throttle shaft, under the bowl. the replacement does not, and relies on the return spring that pulls from the bracket bolted to the manifold.

the return spring that was on the car was too weak to actually close the throttle all the way; it didn't overcome the spring tension in the accell pump. i much prefer carbs thatr have a built-in return spring, for safety.

(i would have rebuilt my old 1931, but it's got the flat accellerator pump rod and there are literally no rebuild parts for it available.)



I missed this post..... I will have to take a look tomorrow night. Thanks!


Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Aug/08/2019 at 11:13am
If it won't run with idle air screw adjustment it seems to me like you have a vacuum leak coming from somewhere. 

I don't know this carb but normally the idle air screw gets turned out about a turn and a half and once running gets adjusted for max idle. When turning it in for the initial setting make sure you do not seat it hard, just touching. You don't want to deform the housing.

Make sure there are no open lines. 

Maybe the intake manifold gasket shrunk, but by tightening those could get you into more trouble if one or some of them break. I have removed two manifolds and can't remember breaking one so I would loosen first before re-tightening.

Maybe try blocking that PCV line temporarily. 

Some people say to spray something like carb cleaner around possible leak areas. If it speeds up then there is your leak. 



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/09/2019 at 1:06am
i can see from the top pic of OPs post that the fast idle cam is active, on highest idle speed.

if this is a new put of the box carb, it's got to be adjusted. it will not work out of the box.

make sure the idle MIXTURE screw is in whatever is the recommended startign position (lol, i'll do all this myself in a couple of days). GENTLY! with fingers! bottom the idle screw, back it out exactly two turns.

pull the hose off the distributor vacuum advance and plug it during the following. you must have ignition timing set right to start with. 5 degrees BTDC (even if the book says 0). timing interacts with idle mixture. it must be right!

let the car warm up though whatever means are necessary.

adjust the thermostat (bimetallic jobbie under the black disc on the rear of the carb) leaner, so it falls of the fast idle cam when you blip the throttle. you need to open it to take the tension off it. you definigetly do not want the choke activated on a warmed up car. in these initial setup phases, its OK to set it crazy-leran to essentially disable it, to get overything else working. then deal with it later. it's summer, you can get it to warm up somehow...

if the car stalls, turn the idle STOP screw in a couple of turns, start it, back it out till it starts to run crappy. you want engine RPM well under 1000, so that the idle MIXTURE screw is the sole source of fuel. if it's running at 1000, 1200, rpm, then its running on midrange circuits, not idle, and nothing will make sense.

if it just won't run at say 800 rpm, with the idle MIX screw out two turns, try 2.5, or 3. if it needs to be open more than that, you have a vacuum leak (or plugged carb, etc). dont proceed until this works.



assuming it will idle, even badly, 800 rpm or so, not on the fast-idle cam, and with the choke plate 100% open straight up and down....

turn the idle MIXTURE screw a quarter or half a turn, in or out, and wait a second to see what it does. it will speed up, or slow down. you want to use the idle MIXTURE screw to make the fastest idle speed, then the idle STOP screw to set the right idle speed.

when you get it close, the idle MIX screw should be sensitive; 1/8 or 1/4 turn makes a noticeable (50, 100 rpm) difference.

if the idle mix screw ends up out more than a couple turns -- richer -- you have an air leak somewhere. its adding fuel to accommodate the extra, unwanted air. stop and fix!

if the idle mix screw isn't out a full turn or more, there's an internal gas leak. this is less unlikely.


when all that's working, put the distributor vacuum advance hose back on. the idle ought to speed up again. (if not, see if the vacuum advance unit is leaking or stuck). adjust the idle STOP screw to set the idle to what you want, probably aroudn 600 rpm.




-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/11/2019 at 10:39pm
OK, you won't want to hear this but...

i too have a 68 american and the 1931 carb. i too bought a remain carb from Rockauto.com.

mine is total junk. the rebuild was an act of desperation on their part, assembled with the wrong parts and it doesn't work as shipped. its also quite unsafe.

here's the major flaws with mine:

* throttle shaft bore and/or throttle shaft worn to laughable state: i can easily stick a 0.032" wire between the shaft and the throttle shaft bore. it's so loose the linkage jams on the other end.

* assembled with the wrong throttle shaft; the replacement doesn/t have the built-in return spring on the non-working end of the shaft.

* the spring in the accellerator pump mechanism OPENS the throttle about 25%. it relies on the external return spring to fully close it. THIS IS UNSAFE. this is due to the lack of the return spring under the bowl.

* the bowl vent cap was missing.

* the choke unloader strikes the throttle lever, preventing it from fully closing the throttle plate. hence it "idles" about 1800 rpm.

* the throttle plate retaining screws were loose! and the throttle plate was cocked and also wouldn't close all the way. the loss of thos escrews down the manifold would nick pistons and bend valves, and the thottle would then be "wide open". THIS IS UNSAFE.

* throttle linkage (with all it's extra protuberances for other applications) was bent, causing the unloader striking above. clearly this wasn't tested at all.

* the idle mixture screw was corroded or buggered, and wouldn't set the idle, but with all the vacuum leak of the comically bad throttle shaft, it doesn't matter anyway.

i have photos and a video of the throttle shaft slop. no one competent would have stuck that together. it needs to be bushed, and it's not.


i'm sad swear words are blocked on this forum because they're all that apply to this carb. NO WAY i will ever use this rebuilder's junk again. (AutoLine from rockauto).

i agree it's a problem for this car. i'm not worried about originality, so i made a bracket to accept the twist throttle for an old Carter YF i've had around for 15 years or so. i think it's for a 72 Hornet.

it started, idled, adjusted right off. now i need to get a new air cleaner, it's a larger diameter opening, and the vacuum spigots are all different (i just plugged them).



ON TOP OF ALL THIS, and somewhat immaterial, the Holley 1931 is a crap carburetor, by construction design. bowl gaskets wet with gasoline are just stupid. yeah, i know better than Holley, as would any backyard mechanic. there's no reason for it, absolutely no advantage. and on an old carb, it's a fire hazard. the original 1931 on this car was seeping out the bottom of the bowl, slowly. it evaporares slowly, but when is dripping gas a good thing?

also it seems to have a very large bowl capacity; there's a lot of gasoline in there! by comparison a modern Weber has about one ounce of fuel in the bowl. this i'd just chalk up to old design, but coupled with the other deficiencies, it's just insult to injury.

no idea how well it operates. and i don't care. i'm throwing this one in the metal scrap pile and returning the "new" one to rockauto.

yeah i'm pissed off.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/11/2019 at 10:42pm

check out this throttle shaft wear! that's a length of 0.032" stainless steel safety wire. it's inserted 1/2", all the way into the bore!

how's that for AutoLine quality control?



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/13/2019 at 8:59pm
OK well i guess i'm a party pooper! lol

i just read the entire thread again.

it's good that you got AutoLine to send you the correct throttle shaft that accepts that front-mounted return spring. it's a safety hazard without it.

if you are still unable to make it idle right, next time you have the carb off, see if the throttle shaft is loose in the body. it should not "rattle" or have excessive play. that will leak enough air at idle to prevent proper idle mix setup.

on nearly any carb, the idle mixture screw setting should be fairly "sharp" -- when you're close to the right mix, 1/4 turn too lean (screw in) will audibly drop the idle speed. (quarter too rich will be "softer" but should also drop idle speed.) i don't know the 1931's; but the mix screw should not be out more than two turns. if it is, that's also indicative of air leak.

on mine, the linkages around the two idle speed screws ("stop" screws, the left/front one with the big w3asher is all-warmed-up idle speed (speed, not mix) were wrong or bent. there's a little bent tang on the throttle lever that was striking the choke unloader (the lever with the weight towards the valve cover) and causing the choke to move and increase speed. it was hard to see and visualize. i had to bend the throttle lever to increase clearance. this should absolutely have been caught by even a modest rebuild job; operate the linkage to check for interference. sheesh.

i'm dismayed with AutoLine. junk quality.

i bought parts for my Carter YF from Mike's Carburetor. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ i emailed them abourt the flat-accell-pump-rod Holley 1931; they have no parts for it. so i bought from Rockauto hoping i'd get a round-shaft carb, but instead this junker (already sent back).

Mike's is a small shop. quality all around. no bull. and no replacement parts for the 1931.  at least they didn't lie to me.


if you ultimately give up on this carb, there is a Carter YF with the right throttle linkage. it's a far, far better design, parts are widely available. the catch here is that the air cleaner for the 1931 will not fit. you'll need an air filter with a 2-3/4" opening. it's only slightly taller. i had to bend the choke stove to fit. 



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: Fisherwerke
Date Posted: Aug/19/2019 at 8:48am
Hi tomj,

Definitely not a party pooper. I see you've had trouble with the carb like I have but with me not being used to this carb at all I may have missed some of the slop you discovered on yours. I will definitely take some notes and check mine closer. Its definitely not a nice rebuild. I was unhappy with the quality right away. 

I used your instructions to tune in the carb but had to give up due to the alternator not charging. I just replaced that last night and started the transmission service. I think it just needs a couple more adjustments then I can see if its ready to move under its own power. 


-------------
1968 Rambler American 199


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 9:50am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

OK, you won't want to hear this but...

i too have a 68 american and the 1931 carb. i too bought a remain carb from Rockauto.com.

mine is total junk. the rebuild was an act of desperation on their part, assembled with the wrong parts and it doesn't work as shipped. its also quite unsafe.

here's the major flaws with mine:

* throttle shaft bore and/or throttle shaft worn to laughable state: i can easily stick a 0.032" wire between the shaft and the throttle shaft bore. it's so loose the linkage jams on the other end.

* assembled with the wrong throttle shaft; the replacement doesn/t have the built-in return spring on the non-working end of the shaft.

* the spring in the accellerator pump mechanism OPENS the throttle about 25%. it relies on the external return spring to fully close it. THIS IS UNSAFE. this is due to the lack of the return spring under the bowl.

* the bowl vent cap was missing.

* the choke unloader strikes the throttle lever, preventing it from fully closing the throttle plate. hence it "idles" about 1800 rpm.

* the throttle plate retaining screws were loose! and the throttle plate was cocked and also wouldn't close all the way. the loss of thos escrews down the manifold would nick pistons and bend valves, and the thottle would then be "wide open". THIS IS UNSAFE.

* throttle linkage (with all it's extra protuberances for other applications) was bent, causing the unloader striking above. clearly this wasn't tested at all.

* the idle mixture screw was corroded or buggered, and wouldn't set the idle, but with all the vacuum leak of the comically bad throttle shaft, it doesn't matter anyway.

i have photos and a video of the throttle shaft slop. no one competent would have stuck that together. it needs to be bushed, and it's not.


i'm sad swear words are blocked on this forum because they're all that apply to this carb. NO WAY i will ever use this rebuilder's junk again. (AutoLine from rockauto).

i agree it's a problem for this car. i'm not worried about originality, so i made a bracket to accept the twist throttle for an old Carter YF i've had around for 15 years or so. i think it's for a 72 Hornet.

it started, idled, adjusted right off. now i need to get a new air cleaner, it's a larger diameter opening, and the vacuum spigots are all different (i just plugged them).



ON TOP OF ALL THIS, and somewhat immaterial, the Holley 1931 is a crap carburetor, by construction design. bowl gaskets wet with gasoline are just stupid. yeah, i know better than Holley, as would any backyard mechanic. there's no reason for it, absolutely no advantage. and on an old carb, it's a fire hazard. the original 1931 on this car was seeping out the bottom of the bowl, slowly. it evaporares slowly, but when is dripping gas a good thing?

also it seems to have a very large bowl capacity; there's a lot of gasoline in there! by comparison a modern Weber has about one ounce of fuel in the bowl. this i'd just chalk up to old design, but coupled with the other deficiencies, it's just insult to injury.

no idea how well it operates. and i don't care. i'm throwing this one in the metal scrap pile and returning the "new" one to rockauto.

yeah i'm pissed off.



I HATE REMAN PARTS. Period. Perhaps Tom, you have read my rants about them, but having been in the business for over 4.5 decades, and having had to deal with reman junk - and having actually TOURED facilities.......... it's scary. I have shelves of carbs - some reman, and what they do to "make it fit xxx model" is sometimes funny, sometimes sad....... 
Same for reman alternators - I have  many dozens of alternators in my shop, many are "reman" from the past or even recent years and it's no bloody wonder people have to go through 2 or 3 to get one that works right. Wrong parts, stators patched up, paint over RUST, a mix of whatever bolts they had to hold it together. 
Some folks get really lucky and get a great reman part first time - maybe two or three times in a row, and swear by them - me, after having spent decades fixing problems caused by reman parts - I can't ever recommend them. Carbs are the worst........... 

-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 9:57am
Originally posted by Fisherwerke Fisherwerke wrote:

Rock Auto's customer service was absolutely useless when I asked about the part problem. So I emailed Autoline themselves. They are sending me a replacement throttle plate so I can transfer the parts over. 


Rockauto never touches or sees most of the stuff they sell - if any of it at all. They are a seller - things are typically drop shipped from their suppliers. They also only go by what their supplier tells them. 
This means if a part is wrong but their supplier says it's right, RA says it's right and won't do anything. I could give two great examples - one a selector shaft seal for MOPAR automatic transmissions, another for the steering stabilizer for Eagle - Gabriel had the totally wrong part listed, it was huge, too long, too big around, just plain wrong, you couldn't make it fit with a torch and big hammer. It was WRONG. I told RA they sent the wrong part - AND I took detailed photos of the original and the crap they sent me - showing how it was at least an inch too long and couldn't possibly fit next to the cross member. No way - still, they said that's what Gabriel said was right, so I was stuck. Same on that seal - the seal they sent was the OUTPUT seal - huge compared to the selector shaft seal. 
See - Rockauto doesn't stock parts, they take their vendors parts list and put into their tree and when you order, they order and it's sent to you with an RA label. At least that's how they used to do business. They stocked nothing. It was started out of a garage. 
If THEY screw up it's usually good for you - you keep the wrong part and they send you the right part. But if it's a vendor problem, they will not make it right. 
They do sell some very good parts - brake parts if you buy the NAME BRAND STUFF - Bendix, Wagner, and certain others - but stay clear of the discount brands!

-------------


http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com

http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com


Posted By: Heavy 488
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 10:05am
The whole replacement parts market is manufacturing junk. Evev OE replacement parts are packaged made in China. I've had to send some back for failure within a week. Sad when youre willing to pay up front in the hopes of doing it once only having to do it over. 


Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by Heavy 488 Heavy 488 wrote:

The whole replacement parts market is manufacturing junk. Evev OE replacement parts are packaged made in China. I've had to send some back for failure within a week. Sad when youre willing to pay up front in the hopes of doing it once only having to do it over. 
Amen. Even the OE parts from the dealer is made in china....Been there seen that...


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 9:56pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

I HATE REMAN PARTS. Period. Perhaps Tom, you have read my rants about them, but having been in the business for over 4.5 decades, and having had to deal with reman junk - and having actually TOURED facilities.......... it's scary


you won't get an argument from me. i was in the spot where i had a literally-unbuildable carb -- the flat-rod version -- and hoping to get one with a round rod. FAIL. i may do something creative with the metal parts, but it won't go on a car.

i stand by my assessment of the Holley carb(s), design-wise. the sideways bowl is a stupid unsafe design.

the Carter YF on now is just fine. haven't checked jetting yet. i will eventually.



-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Rockauto never touches or sees most of the stuff they sell - if any of it at all.


they're a very modern thing -- the drop-shipper. it can be a successful business model.

i liken them to the giant corporate farmers in the California Central Valley -- they draw deeply from the "well" of scattered suppliers/warehousers/manufacturers of auto parts. they do a great job of coordinating/consolidating various parts databases (the best single-source cross-ref site ever!) and /most of the time/ do precisely what they claim to do.

but i think they are also sucking the ground dry. this sounds funny... but many of their prices are waaay too cheap. they're clearing out old-fashioned warehouses at a crazy rate. i really think we are going to have some serious old-car parts shortages very soon. i'm stockpiling like some crazy [Rambler] survivalist. no one reputable is making new brake drums -- period. wheel cyls can be relined (not cheap, but then they last forever -- assuming you can find cups), shoes relined, drums need replacement after one or two cuts.

a friend of mine that runs an old style repair shop spends half his time tracking down parts. some stuff is already scarce. we were grousing about it just this morning.

and yeah, carbs are the worst! subtle, delicate, very few people know how to _deeply_ work with them, or adapt realistic carbs to cars that need them.


-------------
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com




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