Print Page | Close Window

amc 360 rpm to 7k

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: Competition
Forum Name: Drag Racing
Forum Description: Your latest numbers, events you attended and more
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=97757
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 10:52pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: amc 360 rpm to 7k
Posted By: Amc wannabe
Subject: amc 360 rpm to 7k
Date Posted: Dec/20/2018 at 9:09am
What would be the minimum required to spin to a max of 7k safely? Trying to decide on my build direction and need to find my build limitations since I’m new at this. Want to spin it to max 7k to get as much hp as I can without having to move into the car. It’s going In a street/strip 70 javelin 5 speed.



Replies:
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 3:08am
I'd say for long term reliability, you probably need forged pistons and rods, but you would be able to turn 7K on factory parts if the valve train is up to it.

-------------
I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.


Posted By: jpnjim
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 10:53am
Forged rods and a way to keep oil in the pan at all times would be my first two boxes to check off.

I would think a properly prepared (cast) 360 crank would be ok at 7000,
 but I bet the whole thing would appreciate 6500 a lot more.




-------------
71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords


Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 8:05pm
I don't think 7,000 rpms correlates as a street/ strip engine. If you truly want an engine that will still be making power at 7,000 rpms it will not be a very streetable combination. Either way you need to plan on spending some serious money for reliability at that rpm level. Nothing can be over looked or skimped on.

Tom


Posted By: Amc wannabe
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 6:47am
Tom, the dream is to have it rev to somewhere like 6,500/6,800 and me being a pessimist want to ensure if I I slip up and don’t shift until 7k I’m not gonna be left pushing it.


Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 7:40am
I'm running reconditioned factory cast rods with ARP bolts and cast pistons in my 360, got 30 passes on it now turning 6300-6400 but it's been up to 6700 once or twice already, wish me luck  Smile

-------------
I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.


Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 10:24am
Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

I'm running reconditioned factory cast rods with ARP bolts and cast pistons in my 360, got 30 passes on it now turning 6300-6400 but it's been up to 6700 once or twice already, wish me luck  Smile
So long as you keep high quality gasoline running through the engine and not detonate it cast pistons will live a very long life.  A friend and I built a 460 Ford with .060" over Badger cast pistons he bought from PAW many years ago. That engine made over 600 1/8 mile passes running 6200-6300 rpms (up to 7,000 when he would miss a shift with the frontend in the air). Turned consistent 7.00-7.05 1/8 times and 10.85 1/4 mile times. We never had any issues with that engine and just ran VP Red for fuel. He built a larger engine later on and sold that cast piston engine to another racer that used it for several more years.  

Tom


Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 3:51pm
Can add nothing from real world hands on experience, but would say from reading
agree with other poster, keeping oil in the Pan for the pick-up, aka adequate drain-back,
like the AN lines a forum member posted pictures of they added to the heads at the ends
rather than attaching them to the Valve covers.  It is a lot of reading and you will have to
create a log-in account to see the pictures, but there is a LOT of good AMC Traco Info posted
over on the Camaro Research Group CRG Forum under Trans Am Camaros under Traco Fans...


-------------


Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video



Posted By: Steve Obertanec
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 7:26pm
With a good valve train & ignition almost any motor will rev that high but..... In order to need to rev that high you'll need a few more things than a good short block. You'll need a cam, intake & heads that will support that kind of rpm or you will just be making noise & probably be slower than if you shifted lower. A good motor is achieved from a good combination. More food for thought.

-------------
Steve Obertanec
www.stevandracing.com


Posted By: The Anti Chrysler
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 8:38pm
Why spin it like that? Everybody wants a $10K+ race motor for the street that never gets built.
Build something realistic and go drive it instead of sitting around dreaming of being a hero.


Posted By: Amc wannabe
Date Posted: Dec/24/2018 at 8:27am
the goal is to build an engine that splits the difference between midrange and high end power. I plan on a holley 750, air gap intake and hooker headers with a cam based on what I need after this refresh/rebuild. Don’t want 7k as a regular number but plan on drag/autox and am pretty fresh to the 4 wheel world and fully expect to miss shifts/overrev as I’m in competition as a green horn. The air gap says its max suggested rpm is 6,500. That’s the max I am aiming for but like I said I want to overbuild a little to keep my green horn from costing me more green.


Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Dec/24/2018 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Amc wannabe Amc wannabe wrote:

the goal is to build an engine that splits the difference between midrange and high end power. I plan on a holley 750, air gap intake and hooker headers with a cam based on what I need after this refresh/rebuild. Don’t want 7k as a regular number but plan on drag/autox and am pretty fresh to the 4 wheel world and fully expect to miss shifts/overrev as I’m in competition as a green horn. The air gap says its max suggested rpm is 6,500. That’s the max I am aiming for but like I said I want to overbuild a little to keep my green horn from costing me more green.
If your plan is to make power in the range you have suggested in this and previous post you will want to use a Edelbrock Torker rather than a Performer RPM Air Gap. Also since you have mentioned it in several of your post about over revving the engine I would suggest that you use an MSD ignition box and install a high side chip in an appropriate rpm limit.

Tom


Posted By: Amc wannabe
Date Posted: Dec/24/2018 at 10:48am
so do you think I should lower my expectations down to 6k in order to get the best use out of the air gap? It’s advertised to 6,500 and I’m looking to split the difference between race and street performance so I don’t want to overdo it and force myself into a race only setup(which I assume the torker is most likely on a 360 since it’s minimum suggested rpm I think was 3 or 4K) that won’t be as fun to daily. Really green on building so the only thing I have to go on are the advertisers suggested rpm ranges and advise. Be gentle haha


Posted By: Steve Obertanec
Date Posted: Dec/24/2018 at 11:04am
Don't get stuck on that RPM number. Most street cams dont make power that high & all you would be doing is testing parts. You can build a stout bottom end with the K1 rods, Wiseco pistons & a stock crank (balanced) that will withstand the rpm your looking for. You can freshen up your heads & run the air gap till you get used to things & then do an upgrade. Just thoughts...

-------------
Steve Obertanec
www.stevandracing.com


Posted By: Amc wannabe
Date Posted: Dec/25/2018 at 5:30am
Steve, what are your thoughts on the limitations of a original rotating assembly? I just got my heads off and haven’t measured the cylinders just yet but it looks pretty fresh by eyeball standards. Is it de facto chango on these things if your looking for hp in the 400s? Or will it survive a while? Has me thinking of possibly just milling the heads etc to up compression and throw it back together if measurements check out. Any thoughts?


Posted By: Steve Obertanec
Date Posted: Dec/25/2018 at 9:23am
You can build a reliable powerful 360 with stock components & a little love. 

If the crank is clean & within tolerance  you can just polish & reuse. The stock pistons should be fine cleaned up with new moly rings. I would resize the rods & install new rod bolts. Stock bolts are a weak spot. King engine bearings & dura bond cam bearings have shown the best performance  & reasonably priced. We have used the big summit cam for amc with really good results. We u se the Comp Cams Magnum lifters. They hold up over 6500 rpm. Milling the heads for compression isn't a bad idea. Cleaning up the sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent detonation on cheap gas. You should put new springs locks & retainers. Do not cheap out on the valve locks. Make sure you get machined not stamped. There is only like a $15 difference.  Hardened pushrods. 

Always remember a good motor is a good combination. A fast car is a good combination.  

I'm sure I'm missing stuff but this should get you thinking. 


-------------
Steve Obertanec
www.stevandracing.com


Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Dec/25/2018 at 12:07pm
You should read up on John's 360 build here on the forum or even possibly buy one from him.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/360-on-the-dyno_topic96292_page1.html" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/360-on-the-dyno_topic96292_page1.html

This is a tried and true, guaranteed combination that I think would work well for you.

Tom


Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/25/2018 at 7:00pm
There is only so much you can mill off the heads before you get into the valve seats, the easiest way to build compression in the 360 is to slap some flat top pistons in it, cast if you are game or step up to forged if you want to have a little more piece of mind. That will boost compression from factory 8.5:1 up to around 10.5:1 depending on head choice.

I'd second installing some form of rev limiter, that will give you some protection from the odd missed shift or red mist induced brain fade.

My suggestion is to run the Torker with throttle body injection, either Holley Sniper or Fitech, it takes a lot of guess work out of the tuning side of things. You can also use these systems to run the ignition and in that application, they will have built in rev limiting capabilities.


-------------
I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.


Posted By: turbo
Date Posted: Dec/25/2018 at 7:36pm
You will kill it.......Amc won't sustain 7k

-------------
they call me Capt RETIRED!


Posted By: amx390ssc
Date Posted: Dec/26/2018 at 7:49am
listen to Steve!!! 7k is not a problem.


Posted By: racerM95
Date Posted: Jan/11/2019 at 3:40pm
Joe Elmore Power Nation TV did a VERY stout 360 Build, even shows dyno results...
Bottom of the page even gives part numbers...

https://www.powernationtv.com/episode/HP2012-04/amc-other-engine-build-up


Posted By: pfordamx
Date Posted: Jan/21/2019 at 10:31pm
7000 rpm isn't a issue we ran a stock rodded with arp bolts 390 for years with forged pistons and healthy hydraulic that would trap inbetween 6800-7000. if the block is prepped correctly and your using a miloden pan or something similar with external pickups its not an issue. amcs are easy to build to live at that rpm. especially a stock stroke 360 it won't have the piston speed of something like a 401 or 390 or some of the 4.00 stroker crank motors, or engines with offset ground cranks. i have a indy headed 433 thats a street motor 9.5 to 1 solid lifter cam thats seen 7300 because we had to deep of a gear in the car first time out got it right now were we shift at 6800 and traps about the same runs 10.50s at 124 in a 3150lb amx. its nice if you can do it without the rpm but there are a ton of amcs out there that see 6500-7000 regularly without issue.



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net