Torqstorm 401 Build
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URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=97028
Printed Date: Apr/19/2024 at 2:29pm
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Topic: Torqstorm 401 Build
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Subject: Torqstorm 401 Build
Date Posted: Oct/26/2018 at 6:21am
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Decided to start a thread on this build. Machine shop has baked the block, fitted the Pro-Gramm 4-bolt main caps and line honed it. Will be decked flat next.  Picked up a timing set and rocker stud girdle. 
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Replies:
Posted By: brownspirit
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 9:07am
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What are you planning to use for heads? Andy ------------- 69' BBB AMX 390/4-speed 69' s/crambler project 69’ International F210d Cummins/5+4 |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 3:04pm
Got a pair of aluminum Edelbrocks. Planning on a roller cam & lifters. Lower end will be stock 401 crank offset ground with 2.1" end Molnar stroker rods. Pistons yet to be determined. -Steve-
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brownspirit wrote:Posted By: brownspirit
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 4:57pm
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I assume this setup is going in your RWB AMX? Do you have a 727 in that? What are you hope for power wise out of it? Carb or EFI? Sorry for all the questions, I'm intrigued by supercharged engines. Andy ------------- 69' BBB AMX 390/4-speed 69' s/crambler project 69’ International F210d Cummins/5+4 |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 6:05pm
Yes, it's going in the R/W/B AMX and it has a 727. Target it 650 HP on 93 octane pump gas. Still haven't decided on carb vs EFI. Torqstorm tells me they make more power with a carburetor. I'm not looking to run this engine on the ragged edge so I'm leaning towards EFI. I believe it will run in the safe operating range more readily. This is my first experience with a supercharger so I'm gathering as much info as I can. -Steve-
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Posted By: brownspirit
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 7:18pm
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That sounds like alot of fun. EFI seems like it would make for a killer setup if your computer savvy, but the added cost would be a tough pill to swallow if it was my money. Andy ------------- 69' BBB AMX 390/4-speed 69' s/crambler project 69’ International F210d Cummins/5+4 |
Posted By: ARIZONAAMX
Date Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 7:58pm
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If you decide to go with a carb.I would recommend CSU.It works perfect as delivered.not cheap (1000.00). ------------- 68 AMX 401,727. |
Posted By: rockAMX
Date Posted: Nov/04/2018 at 2:42pm
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Get your shop to put in the cam bearings as well. They are tricky on AMC engines.
------------- DWR 1968 AMX  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 7:20am
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Stopped by the machine shop today. They ordered a set of custom Diamond pistons, pins & rings. Gave me sticker shock but now is no time to get cheap. Since we're using the Molnar 2.1" stroker rods it was hard to get a low compression piston. With the right head gasket we should be in the 9.0 - 9.2 range. A few more pics of the heads and superchager. -Steve-     |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Nov/21/2018 at 1:11pm
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I am watching this one come together. If you run into questions feel free to reach out. That is a good looking kit you have coming together. I understand the shock on the pistons. I think my Diamonds cost as much as the ones they sell at a jewelry store $1800 if I remember correctly but they are some great looking slugs. ------------- 
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Nov/21/2018 at 4:13pm
They've got a long lead time as well. Probably won't see them for a few more weeks. I'll be sure to post pics of the short block when it's assembled. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Nov/26/2018 at 6:02pm
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ATI damper finally arrived.  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/03/2018 at 3:24pm
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Another piece of the puzzle arrived today. May pull the trigger on a fuel injection system if one of the sellers has a holiday sale.  |
Posted By: 74Bubblefender
Date Posted: Dec/03/2018 at 4:27pm
That is significant.  ------------- We are just about to forge new AMC V8 crankshafts.. please check here http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showthread.php?19564 |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/03/2018 at 6:48pm
Hurts to admit I'm now in that neighborhood. They had to be custom as we're dropping static compression and stroking at the same time. At least they come with good rings. -Steve-
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Posted By: motorhead_1
Date Posted: Dec/03/2018 at 9:27pm
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what FI were you looking at? holley is having their annual xmas sale ------------- 69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/04/2018 at 6:17am
The Holley Super Sniper 1250 is what I want. Haven't seen that one on sale though. Think they're Terminator is. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/12/2018 at 5:05pm
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Stopped by the engine builder's this morning. They're installing the rotating assembly today. Rod journals were widened 0.080" (I think) for the stroker Molnar rods that use Cheverolet bearings.   |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 5:10pm
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Pistons have arrived. They'll have the shortblock together shortly and measure for compression then order head gaskets.  |
Posted By: 401ton
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 5:40pm
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Looking good, Keep the pictures coming. ------------- 1969 SC/Rambler |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/19/2018 at 5:23pm
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Shortblock is assembled.   |
Posted By: jpnjim
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 10:26am
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Looks beautiful! I'd put that in a plastic bag and sleep with it under my pillow    ------------- 71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX some Jeeps and some Fords |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 6:19pm
LOL! -Steve-
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Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 6:33pm
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yeah, back when I had my Buick 401 rebuilt, the engine was so bright and shinny after the machine work, and once I saw it after assembly, big bummer to see it painted a pea green. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Dec/23/2018 at 3:59pm
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When I get it home I'll post the specs on everything. It was bored 0.030" and stroked to 3.800" for 420 CID. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jan/12/2019 at 10:42am
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Fresh powdercoat on the intake.  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 7:09pm
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Johnson short travel roller lifters have finally arrived! Now we can measure for pushrods. -Steve-  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/06/2019 at 6:41pm
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Home from the machine shop! Gonna check/correct the distributor drive oil feed first. Then I'll do the windage tray.  Cam card in case you're interested. Keeping boost to a pump gas friendly 6 lbs.  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/10/2019 at 3:13pm
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Checked the timing gear to ensure the distributor drive is going to get lubed, appears Rollmaster got it right. The inner area is clearanced all the way around so it doesn't matter where the cam journal feed is.  Additionally they have two feeds for the fuel pump eccentric (some have 4 others have 6) neither of which intersect the feed path. Yay!  Also got the windage tray modified and installed.  Probably slide the oil slinger on it and get the oil pump and timing case installed next. Then I'll fit the oil pan. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/13/2019 at 5:07pm
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Another piece of the puzzle!  |
Posted By: Red20
Date Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 5:26pm
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Not sure on the Sniper specifically, but some folks have had issues with the full height plenum divider on the AMC version of the Air Gap with an EFI throttle body. A 1" spacer or milling the plenum some helps. I know for sure it's been an issue with Terminator throttle bodies. ------------- 1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018 1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 5:52pm
Guess we'll look at that when we dyno this thing. The current engine has the Edelbrock Air-Gap and a Holley 4150 carb with a 1" spacer. Got the oil pump assembled and the timing cover damper seal in place. Also fitted the oil pickup tube and the oil pan. Needed some tweaking. Next I'll install the dipstick tube. Thought I had one somewhere around here but can't find it.  |
Posted By: rockAMX
Date Posted: Feb/18/2019 at 1:19pm
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If you are going with headers, it is useful to cut the dipstick tube closer to the block and use a slightly larger diameter sleeve to connect the two pieces of tube. I did this so I can take the headers off easily without having to remove the dipstick tube completely from the block. The tube will usually get in the way of the headers. ------------- DWR 1968 AMX |
Posted By: Jims69
Date Posted: Feb/26/2019 at 10:03pm
| Was this build at Triple R? I pick my 390 up from there tomorrow, so I can begin assembly. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 5:00pm
Sure was. They asked me if I had a spare bell housing lying around so they could find a way to couple AMC engines to their dyno. They told me they were doing a 390 for a customer in Peoria. -Steve-
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Posted By: wheelz
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 6:35pm
I have always hated the ugly AMC dipstick ruining the look of my nice valve covers. What I do now is cut the tube a couple inches from the block and then cut the dipstick and mark it. It now sits low and out of the way. I tried the Buick GS stick which has no tube and seals to the block directly but kind of hard to see the hole
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 7:47pm
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Bolted the timing case on and temporarily bolted the oil pan (still need a dipstick tube) so I could paint the engine. Amazing how fast it goes when you're not painting the intake, heads and pan!  |
Posted By: Jims69
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 9:33pm
| that’s me.... I have that spare bell housing if you need it for Dyno session. I saw your stuff in the machine shop when I visited. I’ll bring my bellhousing with me tomorrow. Just in case. In fact I’m going to post my build right here in projects as well. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 9:48pm
I loaned them my T-10 bellhousing, they should be covered. Look forward to your build pics. -Steve- |
Posted By: Jims69
Date Posted: Feb/27/2019 at 9:57pm
| ok glad you have it covered |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/06/2019 at 7:10pm
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Dipstick tube arrived and got it installed along with the oil pan. The pan's baffle needed a hole in it for the oil dipstick to clear.  Also snapped a pic of the engine with the intake sitting on it, it's getting exciting! Gotta figure out what oil to run. I'm liking the Joe Gibbs Driven LS30.  |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 4:59am
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about oil, I was surprised to find euro formula Mobil 1 at our Advance auto store. its one of the best over the counter oils, though its not discounted in the ads. So, I went with high milage Castrol synthetic performance oil. it was $36 while the Mobil 1 performance 0w-20 was $32 there abouts, after discount. As stated by a previous member about oils, Joe Gibbs does use another company to label their own oil. Though, it is spec is a Joe Gibbs formula not what is sold by original label. Many relabeled products get some additives or changes to the formula to make a product more suited to the needs of the order. That is why Joe Gibbs oil rates better than the oil its based upon. there is no reason why a high milage oil wont work, just the additives may not be suited for ones needs, by the fact shorter change cycles will be needed, as the oil has a smaller brake down window over the higher rated oils. Though it is one tuff oil when you need wear protection when you do stress the oil. Probaby a great oil for street use, and some occasional strip use without change outs. I always used the brake down window as a key indicator to how often I change the oil. Stress the engine, your stressing the oil. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 6:55am
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After having wiped a distributor drive gearset in the current engine using Mobil 1 synthetic I'm trying to educate myself about oil characteristics. There's an infamous oil blog out there ( http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/" rel="nofollow - https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ ) that says the sheering strength is most important regarding wear. The author goes to great lengths testing a variety of oils for many characteristics such as sheering strength and thermal breakdown temperature. The results of those tests indicate to me the Joe Gibbs LS30 is a good choice for this engine's use. My engine builder recommends the use of a break-in oil to seat the rings properly. -Steve-
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Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 8:50am
Wasn't negging your choice oil, just making comment on others that were also top rated. Yes, Mobil 1 has only one oil that meets your criteria, and that's the Euro formula, not the more commonly found oil you selected earlier. I had the Euro formula rang up, and found it not part of the oil sale this month. It was another $20 on the total ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: 1968Javelin343
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 12:19pm
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PennGrade 1, made at the old Kendall refinery in Bradford Pennsylvania. ------------- Bryan 1968 Javelin 343 |
Posted By: VT71AMX
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 3:58pm
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Thats a good looking build. I a looking forward to seeing your Dyno numbers. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/07/2019 at 5:22pm
My engine builder said Brad Penn recently significantly reduced the ZDDP in their oil. He liked the old Kendall stuff though. -Steve- |
Posted By: 1968Javelin343
Date Posted: Mar/08/2019 at 12:30pm
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Steve, PennGrade 1 still has all the ZDDP, the PennGrade select and PennGrade Blend are fully synthetic or a blend that are modern oil formulations with reduced ZDDP, etc. ------------- Bryan 1968 Javelin 343 |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/08/2019 at 5:06pm
Good to know, thanks for clearing that up. -Steve-
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Posted By: RAZER
Date Posted: Mar/08/2019 at 7:09pm
| Amsoil makes an oil specifically for the older hot rods, zddp included. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/09/2019 at 7:58am
My engine builder mentioned Amsoil's Z-Rod oil but according to the infamous blog it isn't as good as the aforementioned Joe Gibbs LS30. However, Amsoil's Signature Series's synthetic is at the top of his list with fantastic wear protection and no degredation in wear protection at elevated temperatures. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/10/2019 at 3:43pm
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Today was the nicest day for nearly four months here so I got the AMX out of hibernation and took a spin. Also fabbed up a better PCV baffle for the Air-Gap. The one it comes with is useless.   |
Posted By: texasamx
Date Posted: Mar/14/2019 at 8:13pm
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ZDDP is very important for the start up of flat tappet cams, not so much for the roller cam set up you have, but it wouldn't hurt either. ------------- texasamx |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/17/2019 at 7:15pm
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True, I wiped a flat tappet cam on break-in some years back because of that. I'm thinking the old school distributor driven oil pump puts a pretty good load on the distributor gears at high RPM and may wear prematurely without enough ZDDP. Primed the oiling system and bolted the intake on, it looks good. Next I'll get the EFI system ready for use at the dyno. Thought I'd include pics of the end seal. Most people prefer to use RTV. You can see the extra material on the end which prevents the seal from mating to the head properly.  I grind the excess material off using a bench grinder. You can see the angle conforms to the head, just dab some RTV on the end. When the intake is installed it will squish it downwards and complete the seal.   |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Mar/28/2019 at 9:17am
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It is looking really good. Can’t wait to hear your dyno numbers
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Mar/30/2019 at 4:59pm
Me either! Right now I'm rounding up fittings & hose to get the EFI system plumbed for the dyno. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Apr/05/2019 at 7:02pm
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A few more bits. Mounted the fuel system components on some plywood for use in the dyno room, still have to plumb it. Another piece will be used for the electrical (ignition system, EFI & fuel pump). CD box is on backorder. -Steve-  |
Posted By: Eazybee
Date Posted: Apr/12/2019 at 10:00am
| I believe I see an external fuel regulator? I thought the Sniper had an internal fuel regulator (in the throttle body) so it has me wondering what your gaining by adding an external? Thanks. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Apr/12/2019 at 5:23pm
No, the Super Sniper throttle body doesn't have one. They require a return style regulator. This system has the regulator after the throttle body. That way it gets full pressure. The flow is: fuel tank / pre-filter / fuel pump / post-filter / Sniper throttle body / regulator / return line back to tank. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/07/2019 at 1:05pm
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Making small steps before dyno day (whenever that turns out to be). Holley Super Sniper EFI and Hyperspark ignition installed. Headers should be here tomorrow. They've been on back order for six weeks.  |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: May/07/2019 at 1:37pm
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That engine looks mighty big with the supercharger installed. I take it your going to strong arm the steering, as I dont see any room for power steering pump. A beautiful piece it is! I am sure they have all the issues sorted out with belt jump, one thing that may help if your romping around with sudden stabs and releases, is to use a longer throw arm (Mopar tensioner). I have been playing on the idea... If the input shaft on the supercharger, can be machined for a hub for various adaptions of pulleys, I would try using a Police Intercepter alternator clutch pulley as an end all to any belt jumping, especially if using NOS. Though it would be 20% overdrive to make boost start just above idle. Though it would limit your RPM range for anything above 6500 or so. Just ideas from my thoughts of using one. Space has limited me on incorporating it into my plans. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/07/2019 at 7:05pm
I took the power steering off the car when I built it. I requested the driver's side mounted supercharger specifically since there's nothing over there. Tensioner is in a prone position right now, no spring action. It snugs up pretty good at the supercharger pulley when the belt is on. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/08/2019 at 6:42pm
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FINALLY!  Is it really that hard to get the flange welded in square?  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/25/2019 at 3:50pm
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Installing the last bits for the Torqstorm system. Some interference with the inlet and oil filler.  Shortened the oil filler tube.   Now waiting for dyno time! -Steve- |
Posted By: Eazybee
Date Posted: May/25/2019 at 5:55pm
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Oh man. I'm as excited as you probably are to fire that up. My mount is on the passenger side (ps pump) but it doesn't change having to alter the oil filler tube. I'm trying to dream up alternatives. My block went to the machine shop last Tuesday. For now I am living vicariously through you. ;)
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/25/2019 at 7:33pm
If there was some way to angle the filler tube that would solve the problem. Maybe I should look into that also. -Steve-
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Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: May/26/2019 at 2:56pm
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Found out the Sniper throttle body uses a 1/4" stud and the Torqstorm hat comes with a nice stainless nut which has a rubber seal on the underside but it's 5/16". Made a stud using a 1/4" bolt and some 5/16" all thread. Welded the all thread to the top of the bolt head and ground it down. Didn't turn out too bad! -Steve-   |
Posted By: Phitown Hustler
Date Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 4:32pm
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I am thinking of a Torqstorm or procharger setup on the next engine for my Spirit but not sure if its gonna fit. I would also do a driver side since I have no power accesories but have concerns it will fit in the bay and also under the hood with an air gap. Anyone else done TS on a small car? |
Posted By: crossramrambler
Date Posted: Jun/04/2019 at 8:47pm
| I second that. Looks like it would be very tight on a small body.I searched all over the internet and the only small body I found with a torquestorm has a small block Chevy too bad it was a killer car..... |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/07/2019 at 5:17pm
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Mounted on the dyno, should get numbers early next week! -Steve-  |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/10/2019 at 5:26pm
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Engine ran the dyno today, very disappointing. We think the Holley Super Sniper system is keeping things well inside the safe zone. Since it's self-learning it may not be suitable for running on an engine dyno. We'll try mapping the fuel and timing curves and see if it can be dialed in. -Steve- |
Posted By: crossramrambler
Date Posted: Jun/10/2019 at 9:07pm
| Keep your chin up. Dyno's have a way of hurting a guy. Maybe a carb for the base line pulls would be better. The cam you chose was that a special grind for EFI and boost? Going to be ditching the cross ram and go Torque storm and EFI. Have a 420 with Indy heads. So am very interested in your progress. Good luck...Jim |
Posted By: motorhead_1
Date Posted: Jun/10/2019 at 10:25pm
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how much boost? what's the afr? any meth injection? do you have intake air temps? ------------- 69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/11/2019 at 6:53am
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Boost ran up to 10 PSI. AFR average was 12.8. No meth injection. Don't have intake temp. Timing was set to retard 1.5 degrees/LB of boost. We changed it to 1 degree and it started popping. Seems okay at 1.3 degrees. Steve Morris Engines offers the Super Sniper with preloaded fuel maps. Wish I had got the system from them. -Steve-
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Posted By: Phitown Hustler
Date Posted: Jun/11/2019 at 2:04pm
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Cant wait to see the numbers. I am thinking of a TS in combo with the new Edelbrock manifold and a Throttle body system on my Spirit. I emailed TS a week ago to inquire about fitment on a small car but have not heard back yet. |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/11/2019 at 5:18pm
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Engine shop phoned Holley. Yesterday we ran idle then made pulls. Holley says that's the wrong thing to do with the Super Sniper EFI. Their advice was to make the first pull at 1/4 throttle, then another at 1/2 throttle and then 3/4 throttle. The system has to learn as though it were in a vehicle being driven. Without those part-throttle "learn" incidents it doesn't have a base to draw from for a full pull. Will stop by tomorrow morning and see if they had any luck with it. -Steve-
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Posted By: motorhead_1
Date Posted: Jun/11/2019 at 7:57pm
sorry for the hijack, i emailed TS last night and got an email this morning about putting their unit in my concord. they asked for some pics as they have not put one of these in a small body car. Chris Beardsley TorqStorm Superchargers 616-706-5580 end hihjack glad to hear holley has a plan for you to get this to work. let us know what happens. thx ------------- 69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/12/2019 at 5:19pm
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The part-throttle pulls got everything squared away but life still is a series of disappointments. The numbers are in. Missed our 650 HP target by a ton.    It's still a good amount of power for 93 octane pump gasoline. Doubt it'll get the AMX in the 10s which has been the goal. The RPM Air-Gap intake and possibly the Performer RPM heads just can't flow enough air to make our target numbers. Likely the intake more so than the heads. A single plane would work better for top end power. Eventually the supercharger can't cram enough fuel/air down the engine's throat. You can blow as hard as you want through a straw but eventually the flow will top out and pressure won't matter. I'll run it as-is for now. Maybe at some point swap in an Indy single plane intake. We'll see. -Steve- |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Jun/12/2019 at 5:43pm
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Hard to believe torque drops as RPM increases past 4000. Even below 5K, which makes me think something may have been overlooked. Did you try a simple non boosted calibration to see how the engine is responding just with the FI system, even though your cam is set for a boosted application, you may see a broader upward torque curve before it falls. Not the very narrow and light peak. Gosh, I expected 700hp for the build. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jun/12/2019 at 8:53pm
No, didn't run it without boost. Once it's in the car and it gets more data it may improve some but probably not that much. We'll see. -Steve- |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Jun/13/2019 at 7:22am
Just a question that popped up, as some like to do a baseline comparison, to see results or help trouble shoot. Maybe it really needs to be driven to self tune... but as of recent with another fresh build, the valve springs were just a tad too strong for the lifters. Seems it may be a possible issue, if your torque curve continues to sag after installation into your car. The nice thing is a wee adjustment to valve lash to correct, if that be the case. Sorry to see your disappointment with the initial results, as i too would feel the same, with mixed feelings to the efforts. I am sure, it will be sorted out without much trouble to correct. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: Phitown Hustler
Date Posted: Jun/17/2019 at 3:21pm
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TS sent me these nice dimension drawings of both kits. They said they have not installed one on a small body yet but know of 2 installations   |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/12/2019 at 7:22pm
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Started installing the engine in the car today. Next time I use the Canton pan I'm going to cut and slope the front sump area so it won't interfere with the stock engine cradle. Another problem I've run into is the Doug's header collides with the spark plugs on the Edelbrock Performer heads. I'll have to pull them back out and cut the mounting flanges back a bit. Always something...... |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/13/2019 at 5:40pm
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Pulled the headers out and ground the spark plug sides down a bit. Started putting in the supercharger and ran into some fitment issues. Air filter won't fit right on the supercharger, hits the master cylinder and upper control arm mount.  I was going to relocate it to the underside of the hood scoop but after looking at the height of the supercharger hat there's going to be a clearance problem.   |
Posted By: Ramzilla
Date Posted: Jul/17/2019 at 9:14pm
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Thanks for all the pictures and hard work. It will help when I am ready to install my torgstorm on STR crossram. SC Rambler, thinking about just using one torqstorm on passenger side relocating battery to driver side connecting both fitech fi units together with torqstorm. You mention that your CR was 9.2 was that static compression. And do you know what your dynamic effective compression ratio would end up being. My static is 10.2 but with cam adjustment dynamic would be 8.5 is that to much compression for stock motor using torqstorm. Motor bottom end is totally stock except for cam and STR Crossram. Any input from anyone is appreciated. Thanks ------------- SC Rambler |
Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jul/17/2019 at 10:14pm
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That's a common problem I've seen with those setups and leaving the air
filter there to pull all that hot air in is a bad idea - especially
without knock sensors. You really should try to get cold air into it. One suggestion would be to put a hole in the inner fender, forward of the shock tower and run ductwork to the front of the car under the trough or in the trough to have the filter up beside the headlight. I'm not sure how much room you have compared to a humpster. I have my filter in the inner fender with ducting to have the air inlet beside the headlight so it gets air coming thru the grill. -------------  " http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
Posted By: Ramzilla
Date Posted: Jul/18/2019 at 12:40pm
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Mopar guy I was going to try to get the intake. Close to or connected to where my hood scoop enters from the hood. SC Rambler, maybe with some flex tubing not sure. Also about finding a filter that fits within a canister, I have a setup on my motor home like that but it takes up too much room. I know I need a filter somewhere before air enters the torqstorm. Yes I don't like the air filter just sitting there receiving hot air from motor under hood. Would like to make hood scoop functional. Maybe some kind of factory air box would work smaller the better routing from hood scoop to box to torqstorm. Anyway Motor is still in car still working on front suppension almost done. Pulled tranny and bellhousing but thinking ahead about motor things. Thanks Ramzilla ------------- SC Rambler |
Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jul/18/2019 at 5:28pm
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Here's a few pictures of my cold air intake ducting if it gives you any ideas.    ------------- " http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/18/2019 at 8:27pm
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I think something like this could work. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aid-100-350/overview/" rel="nofollow - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aid-100-350/overview/ -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/18/2019 at 9:07pm
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Had a long fan spacer cut down so I could use the mechanical fan with the Torqstorm supercharger. Got about 3/16" of clearance. Probably an inch between the fan and radiator (once I get it installed).  |
Posted By: Ramzilla
Date Posted: Jul/26/2019 at 4:07pm
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I like the suggestion of that Airaid from Summit put it in My wish list. Thanks ------------- SC Rambler |
Posted By: 401Ambo
Date Posted: Jul/27/2019 at 6:48am
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This my intake set-up for a Vortech blower, it uses a cast aluminum 180° elbow made by Vortech:  ------------- '72 401 Ambassador wagon '69 pro-Street AMX AMX/2 (starting soon) |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/27/2019 at 3:09pm
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Nice setup! Got mine started and running today although it won't shut off just like the MSD 6AL system I had before. Since Holley owns MSD I'm betting the ballast resistor fix is necessary. Gonna drop Holley a note and find out. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/27/2019 at 6:35pm
I got one of those and cut some sections. Nice tube made of solid material. Here's a word of warning though...... I cut some sections using an angle grinder and cutting wheel. When cutting the plastic turns molten then sticks to and burns exposed skin like napalm. Got a couple of good blisters from it. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/28/2019 at 4:45pm
Installed the dual ballast resistor as the MSD directions say to.
Engine now shuts off but I'm concerned about the amount of power it
consumes when running. One side is about 5 ohms and the other is about 1.5. When
running it's dissipating about 28 watts and it's pretty hot.
When
I first connect the battery cable there's an arc so I put an ammeter
inline with it. It will draw a few milliamps and then taper off to no
current draw. There's probably some capacitance in the system taking a
charge when first connecting the battery. I'm guessing the dual ballast
resistor is probably being used to discharge that. -Steve- |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/30/2019 at 7:21pm
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May have a solution for keeping things under the hood. If I swap the 1" throttle body spacer with a 1/4" that'll buy me another 3/4" of hood clearance and if I change the orientation of the upper radiator hose it creates a dip. I may be able to run the pressure side tube in that dip. The area between the throttle body and oil filler is now open for the inlet side of the supercharger. Hope to use the hood scoop to feed it.  |
Posted By: 401Ambo
Date Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 7:27am
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Are you sure your set-up won't clear the hood? When I was installing the Vortech I thought it too would hit the hood but when I closed it and checked the clearance was fine. Did you check with the hood on? It may rise in the center more than you think. ------------- '72 401 Ambassador wagon '69 pro-Street AMX AMX/2 (starting soon) |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 1:41pm
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Yeah, the hood is on and the cutout I had for the previous round air filter isn't big enough. This morning I took the supercharger hat off, cut the snout off and angled it downwards. Then took it to a local welding shop to put back on. This combined with a shorter throttle body spacer should get me the clearance I need. -Steve- |
Posted By: Have2SC's
Date Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 5:29pm
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Rebel, looks like your upper hose is on backwards which would explain that dip in the middle currently. ------------- 1971 SC360 Hornet 4 speed 1970 Javelin 390 4 speed "Base Model" 1967 Rambler 220 X code 343 4 speed |
Posted By: Rebel Machine
Date Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 9:27pm
Yes, that's intentional to make room for the pressure side tubing. You can see the radiator side isn't actually attached, got a new one on order. Today I removed the supercharger hat and cut it such that it tilts downward a bit. It's at a welding shop right now to be reattached. Also have a 3/8" throttle body spacer on order. Hopefully I'll have the new pieces Friday. -Steve- |