Aussie Gremlin
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: Competition
Forum Name: Drag Racing
Forum Description: Your latest numbers, events you attended and more
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=96598
Printed Date: Apr/23/2024 at 12:47pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Aussie Gremlin
Posted By: WesternRed
Subject: Aussie Gremlin
Date Posted: Sep/30/2018 at 8:52pm
|
Time to kick of the new season with the Aussie 360 powered Gremlin It's no longer stock, never really was in hindsight, so I think a new thread is in order. Here is the old thread for reference: http://theamcforum.com/forum/stock-360-output_topic91270.html" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/stock-360-output_topic91270.html This is a wrap of what we achieved last season: 29/11/17 first night out with 265/50/14 street tires: Best time 16.23 @ 87.9 mph, best 60' 2.69  06/12/17 swapped out the street tires for the 26" x 10" slicks, didn't really need the extra traction but the T/As were old and cracked so I'd been told not to come back with them on the car. Also lost the front bumper for a 72 lb. weight saving. Best time 16.07 @ 91.2 mph, best 60' 2.68  20/12/17 advanced ignition timing from 5 deg initial to 15 deg initial, amazing how much difference a little bit of extra timing makes. Best time 15.00, best mph 93.8, best 60' 2.30 3/01/18 didn't want to waste time messing with the 600 vacuum secondary Holley carb that was never going to be a long term solution, so installed a Holley Sniper with 1" open spacer on the Performer intake over Christmas Best time 14.42 @ 95.9 mph, best 60' 2.24  31/01/18 replaced the rear main seal, not really a performance improvement, but better than leaking oil all over the place. The previous weeks Sniper data logs had also shown that I wasn't getting full throttle, so I fixed that Best time 14.24 @ 98.0 mph, best 60' 2.25 14/02/18 installed electric fans, this fixed the overheating issue I'd been having with the old factory flex fan Best time 14.12, best mph 98.1, best 60' 2.15  28/02/18 installed a CRT reverse pattern manual valve body, did struggle with gear selection that night, but managed one clean run Best time 14.00 @ 98.1 mph, best 60' 2.13  7/03/18 the previous week had identified some problems with axle windup (driveshaft was hitting the floor), so added some homemade slapper bars, which fixed that and also modified the shifter to fix the gear selection issues Best time 13.98 @ 98.4 mph, best 60' 2.14  9/05/18 the engine had always had a fair bit of lifter noise so on further investigation it was found that one of the exhaust lobes and the corresponding lifter had failed. Installed a new bigger and badder cam, but only got one run before the starter motor died Best time 14.60 @ 98.0 mph, best 60' 2.48  16/05/18 back with another starter, but it became pretty obvious that the new cam wasn't helping things, probably way too big given the relatively low compression of the otherwise stock engine and lack of a decent high stall torque convertor Best time 14.37 @ 98.7 mph, best 60' 2.36 26/05/18 thought I would try to be smart and advance the cam 8 degrees, didn't really help Best time 14.59 best mph 96.5, best 60' 2.30  Made a total of 62 runs over the season and did make some good gains before the slicks were packed away for the winter break. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Replies:
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/30/2018 at 10:04pm
|
So over the winter break, the engine has been out for a freshen up, full detail here: http://theamcforum.com/forum/360-shenanigans_topic94523_page6.html" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/360-shenanigans_topic94523_page6.html Basically what's been done is: Installed 343 style flat top pistons increasing compression to around 10.5:1 Balanced rotating assembly Home ported cylinder heads Torker intake to replace the old Performer Electric water pump Upgrade to 120 Amp one wire alternator Machine early style 71 crank to Torqueflite specs Installed a Turbo Action 10" S-800 converter, should be around 3500 stall Back together and ready to run:  Hope to run it down the strip this Wednesday night weather permitting, will be very interesting to find out if all of that work has been worthwhile. Edit: Still running the larger cam from last season, now installed at 105 ICL with the new timing set and measured as follows: Intake: Open 36 BTDC, Close 82 ABDC, Duration 298 0.050", 11 BTDC, 41 ABDC, Duration 232 Intake center line 105 Valve Lift 0.510" Exhaust Open 77 BBDC Close 45 ATDC, Duration 302 0.050", 52 BBDC, 6 ATDC, Duration 238 Exhaust center line 106 Valve lift 0.510" LSA 110 Exhaust it still choked through factory free flows and small bore 2" dual exhaust. Any predictions? ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Oct/03/2018 at 4:53am
|
I think a smaller cam or at least another point of compression would help ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: steinercj5
Date Posted: Oct/03/2018 at 6:58am
| I predict you pass right over the 13's and are now in the 12's. I had a very similar setup in a '66 American and it was mid 12's consistently. Good air and different elevation made a 12.26. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/03/2018 at 5:38pm
Not in the 12's just yet, had the rain come in last night, so only got 4 runs in before they called it off. The first run off the trailer was the best run of the night, isn't it always, 13.52 @ 101.76: Had a buddy there as well:  I reckon he was a bit rusty, so managed to catch him napping at the lights:  Pretty happy so far although I was probably hoping for a bit more, still need to work on the 60' times, I've picked up about 3/10 there over last time out, but less than 1/10 over what it did with the smaller cam. Bit more practice there will probably help. Also seems to be lacking a bit in the top end and I'm wondering if the pea shooter exhaust is holding it back. Currently has dual 2" pipes with some unknown old mufflers on it, maybe some gains to be found there without the need for headers.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/04/2018 at 3:21am
|
I had a good read back over the old thread and as usual there's still a few basics I need to go back over. First one is timing, I set it up initially with 30 deg total advance, I suspect it will need a bit more? In my defence, the 4 runs last night were all made within about 30 minutes before the rain set in, so I didn't really have time to make any adjustments. Any thoughts on what the maximum safe timing would be with the new setup, I wouldn't trust myself to detect any pinging under race conditions? Couple of degrees at a time I guess and see what happens with the mph and times. Not really sure what's the best approach to using the new convertor, seems like it flashes to around 3500 RPM, what sort of RPM should I be aiming to hold on the line? I'm trying to gauge how much of an issue the exhaust might be, ET/MPH suggest around 250 HP, not sure how accurate this is http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/" rel="nofollow - http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ , seems to suggest that I am approaching the limits of dual 2" pipes without even allowing for mufflers. Interested to know how much HP the factory free flows (2.25" outlet) will support, to know if I would be wasting my time putting some bigger pipes on it for now. I know I really need some headers for it, but trying to hold off on that. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: steinercj5
Date Posted: Oct/04/2018 at 8:13am
| I found my 3500 stall converter to not really be enough. When I got up on the converter before launch (about 1700 rpm- any more pushed me through the beams) it would leave the line a bit lazy- until I got to 3000. The car definitely did better when I stabbed from idle but still needed more stall. I'd try both ways and see what your best 60' is. |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Oct/06/2018 at 6:22pm
|
34* total timing should be good 2" exhaust is small ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/06/2018 at 6:53pm
|
Had an interesting discovery under the front seat, found a missing time sheet from back in May, the car actually ran 102.92 mph which is actually a fraction faster that it did with the fresh engine last week. Pretty much suggests that while the new converter is getting it off the line a lot quicker and producing better elapsed times, it's not really making anymore power. I'd temper this with the fact that I haven't played with the timing yet. In the meantime, I had a dig around in the back of the shed and found this:  The headers have had a hard life as well as being pretty old and crusty:  Now I've seen the Engine Masters header bash episode, but I still wasn't going to stand for that, so did a bit of straightening:  Gave them the once over with the wire wheel and hit them with a bit of rust converter, just need to install them now. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/07/2018 at 6:13am
|
Anyway, off with some dirty old exhaust bits:  And back on with some other dirty old stuff:  There is no way the other bit of exhaust will fit these headers easily, so it looks like starting from scratch is going to be the best option.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: RUMBLR
Date Posted: Oct/08/2018 at 5:12am
|
Looks great Darren!, hadn't caught up with it all for a while. I think it will make a big difference the exhaust. I dropped 4 tenths by taking off the 2.5" exhaust with straight through mufflers, and having it straight out the collectors. 12.2 > 11.8. ------------- 343 904 M20 - 11.83@115 |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/08/2018 at 5:50pm
|
Thanks Adam, I remember you telling me about that previously, I'm going to build a new 3" system that dumps at the diff from scratch. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/09/2018 at 12:30am
Since I will be building a new exhaust system this week instead of racing, thought I would do some bench racing instead using the good old Dyno 2000 software: "Original 270H" is basically where we started. "New Cam" is when the current cam was installed in the old 8.5:1 compression motor with the dual plane intake, can see now why this was a backwards step. "New Engine" is where we are now with the same cam, 10.5:1 compression, single plane intake and pocket porting of the heads, assuming that's the equivalent of what I've achieved with my backyard porting exercise. Now at this point, it looks like I haven't really realised any of the expected gains except for quicker 60' times due to the new converter, but haven't tried any tuning/timing adjustments either. "New Exhaust" is what it should achieve with small tube headers through mufflers. Interesting that the first two sims seem to be pretty much on the money. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Oct/09/2018 at 10:04pm
|
That Gremlin oughtta do same as my '69 367 "X"... Stand on Brakes, Knot Up Converter big time, launch, 1.8x 60', 8.x @ 86.x 1/8, 10.x 1k ft, 12.6x @ 108.x 1/4... #3200, Pump, 343/367, 10:1 Cast, 218 @ .050, Torker, 750DP, MSD/Delco, Stk Motorola, h20 Pump, Flex-A-Lite, Carter 6906 Mech Pump, Stk 5/16" Suction, 3k 727, 3.73, 26x8.5's @ 9 psi HOT, Man Strg, ~500' Above SL, 1.63 Cyclone, 2.5 Full Mandrel Ex, No "X", FM 40's...  -------------  Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/10/2018 at 12:07am
|
Should really do a bit better than that even, certainly hoping it is just the exhaust holding it back now, 2" press bent pipes are probably more like 1.75" around the curves in reality. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/17/2018 at 5:29pm
Exhaust has helped a bit, but unsure how much yet: The gear shifter has gone out of adjustment, so no third gear hence the low terminal speed even though this was the best ever ET, did pick up 6 tenths and 6 mph over the 1/8th mile though. The bad news is that it has sprayed oil all over the engine bay, possibly as a result of hitting 7,000 RPM, so only got the one run. Now I have to figure out where all of the oil came from.  Seems like a lot of oil to come out of the breather, so maybe blown a rocker cover gasket out? edit: No, looks like it all came out of the breather ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: dbltrbl
Date Posted: Oct/18/2018 at 6:06am
| We built 360 with similar pistons, timing had to be correct othervise it pinged easily. I hope you didnt break piston ring land. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/18/2018 at 7:01am
|
That's what I've been thinking about all day at work today, the only way that much oil comes out the breather is if there is some sort of catastrophic engine damage. First thing I did tonight is pull the plugs, they all look ok, did a quick compression test and all cylinders were ok. Checked valve cover bolts and they were loose, looks like I might have dodged a bullet this time. I will clean it up, put it back together and see if there is much in the way of blow by. Did notice that the alternator belt is missing in action, (can't call it a fan belt when there is no fan).
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: DragRacingSpirit
Date Posted: Oct/18/2018 at 9:15am
|
In my experience, if you are running good gas and have no detonation issues, they like more total timing than 34 degrees. My race car with 14-1 compression and 114 octane race gas likes 38 degrees of total. Are you running cast pistons in it ? If so you should have spent a few hundred extra and upgraded to forged for your application. Just a suggestion but put some decent race gas in it and give it more total timing.
------------- Best 1/4 mile 8.99, 1/8 mile 5.71, 60 foot 1.27, no power adders |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/18/2018 at 9:34am
|
I definitely should have used forged pistons and rods, but I am a TARO "Tight Arsed Rambler Owner', that said, I was pricing forged pistons today fearing the worst, LOL. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/21/2018 at 8:25pm
|
Took to the engine bay today with a couple of cans of spray greaser so now it's clean and oil free again. New alternator belt installed, Bosch one this time, might stay on a little better than the el cheapo parts store one, might not either. Also adjusted the shift linkage, so hopefully I will have 3 gears again. Since I hadn't done the obligatory video with the new exhaust, here it is: Looks like it is all set to go again. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/25/2018 at 7:25am
Well it seems like no serious damage was done and the new exhaust seems to have helped just a little bit: ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: steinercj5
Date Posted: Oct/25/2018 at 8:17am
| Nearly a full second is substantial. You gotta be pretty happy with that. I'm guessing 'seat of the pants' feel was fun too. Glad to hear. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Oct/26/2018 at 11:26pm
So it was all corked up huh...  ------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/26/2018 at 11:39pm
Was actually more than a second, only ran 13.52 with the old exhaust, definitely worth making that change. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
steinercj5 wrote:Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Oct/28/2018 at 9:29pm
|
Looks like there will be a short break in proceedings due to some fool falling off a ladder at the weekend and fracturing several bones in his foot:  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 9:53pm
|
It's about time for an update. I couldn't do much while the foot was healing so tinkered with a couple of small cosmetic jobs: I'd accumulated a bit of a collection of factory mirrors in various states of disrepair:  With the addition of some new glass, I managed to cobble together a couple of non-remote mirrors from that lot (passenger side is not finished yet):  I also made up a new door card backing from aluminium composite sign board over a year ago:  While functional, it was not very pretty. The factory door cards are padded, I thought something similar was in order and so cracked out the foam padding and contact adhesive to replicate this:  Then re-applied the original factory vinyl over the top, little bit bumpy in places, but certainly a big improvement:  Ok, neither of these things are going to make it go faster and some might question the wisdom of adding additional weight, but it's done now. Now onto to the more important stuff, back to the track for Mopar night this week. But a bit of fun first, there were some hot hatches lined up at the track, so thought I would get in on the action:  Then it was time for the on track action:  I actually had a really good night, it took a little while to get going, I'm going to blame the 10-12 mph head wind at the track that did ease off towards the end of the night and let me finish with a new PB of 12.23 @ 110.75 mph.  Green is a PB, yellow is the best on the night. Starting to get a sniff of 11's now.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 10:02pm
|
Couple of runs: ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 10:09pm
|
Seems like there is a bit of scope to improve 60' times with the current mph.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: 70BBOAMX
Date Posted: Dec/14/2018 at 10:44pm
| Running strong! Congrats. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/16/2018 at 6:29am
|
So the Gremlin went on a bit of a diet today, took out the rear seat, rear seat belts and wiper motor, that's about 40 lbs. The other thing I'm wondering about is this roof spoiler:  I realize that a Gremlin is about as aerodynamic as a brick, but just wondering if this would be creating any measurable drag, other than that's it's probably another 10 lbs off the car, so should I loose it or not? Also thinning of adding some adjustable front shocks, now I have scoured the internet for a least an hour and cannot find any evidence of what they might gain in terms of ET, sure they will help weight transfer, but to what end?
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: gremlin1945
Date Posted: Dec/16/2018 at 9:54pm
|
Lose the rear spoiler for starters. You'll need a pair of 90/10s shocks in the front. There's no front end lift at all in the video. As per our conversation use the line lock to get the tires spinning staticly on the burnout. I used to use rear shocks calibrated to 70/30 on my gremlin. Gave the visual appearance of the old mopars with the tires planting and the rear body seperating. ------------- former NHRA #1945 former IHRA #1945 T/SA |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/17/2018 at 12:00am
|
Might have to order some new front shocks for Christmas then. Competition engineering 3 way adjustable shocks on the back, but still set 50/50. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/19/2018 at 10:01pm
|
Had another crack at it last night, as mentioned, I have removed the rear seat, rear seat belts, wiper motor and roof top spoiler saving 46 lbs in total.
Didn't match last weeks PB, but overall slightly better and more consistent. Was hoping that loosing the spoiler might have reduced aerodynamic drag slightly for a little more MPH, but most of the gains seem to have come from better 60' times. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Dec/20/2018 at 2:34pm
|
What front coil springs are in the car? I put 6-cyl Javelin Front Springs in my '69 AMX and it help weight transfer imho. My AMX stock had the heaviest stock springs, H/D with A/C, etc. and I had removed a bunch of weight, iron manifolds, A/C, P/S, yada yada... Javelin 6-cyl springs = 9.84" @ #850, #93/in & 9.84" @ #800, #83/in AMX HD A/C springs = 9.84" @ #1010, #115/in & 9.84" @ #935, #115/in Wonder if Gremlin Front Coil Springs V8 vs I-6 have that much different between them? Would imagine a considerable amount of front end weight has been removed from your Gremlin.
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/20/2018 at 10:34pm
|
I have no idea what front springs are in it, but it is originally a 6 cylinder car. There were no V8 Hornets in Australia or Gremlins of any form back in the day, so it’s unlikely that the factory springs would have been swapped out for anything heavier. That said, the V8 probably has better weight distribution than the 6 cylinder due to the engine effectively sitting further back in the bay. Front does appear to sit up a bit stance wise, so maybe some lighter front springs would be the go. Front shocks are just what was in the car when I got it, might be time to order some front drag shocks for it. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 7:00am
For the sake of a little more interest I pulled some numbers off the data logger from the last night out (runs are in the same order). I was trying a few different stall speeds to see if it made any difference off the line and also have recorded the actual stall speed achieved and shift points. Can't say that I see much in it in regard to what if anything worked better. Maybe somebody has better eyes than me?  It looks like am probably shifting into 2nd about half way to 330' and into top just after 330'. PS: I forgot the SIM card the previous time, so no data there.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 7:31am
Any thoughts on the plugs, been in there since I started running it last season with the old motor. Note number 6 is an odd plug NGK BP5ES, the rest are Champion N12YC, broke one when I put the new motor together so used an old plug from something else to get it running: Replacing them with NGK BP6ES, hope I'm going in the right direction with a colder plug, not that the old ones look too bad really.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/03/2019 at 6:08am
|
First update for the new year, had a run on Wednesday night, no startling developments other than it did run slightly higher mph for the first few runs, fresh plugs perhaps, before tailing off a bit towards the end of the night, somewhat due to driver inattention I think. I did fiddle with a couple of small changes to the EFI system This is a fairly typical run from the previous outing just before Christmas with a few points of interest highlighted. It does seem to go a little rich when the throttle first hits the floor and it also seems to take a little while to build RPM once the converter flashes to 4,000 RPM or so (not sure if this is normal).  I did take a little off the acceleration enrichment and that appears to have removed the rich spike, but did not really made any difference off the line:  I also thought I would try a run with the closed loop learning disabled after some input that the apparent oscillation of the AFR might be consistent with the learning mode chasing it's tail. This didn't appear to make a lot of difference other than the AFR ratio being a little less consistent across the run.  Note that timing is still via a traditional mechanical advance distributor, vacuum advance is not hooked up, running 34 degrees total advance that is all in by 4000 rpm, probably earlier. Perhaps some more attention here is in order so I will re-check the timing curve and see what it looks like. Any thoughts from here? ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/05/2019 at 2:09am
|
Thinking to add some form of cold air intake, this looks like it has some potential:  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/05/2019 at 6:55pm
|
This is the basis of my thinking, manifold air temperatures: 2nd run 122 F 3rd run 127 F last run 140 F It's not lost on me that quite often the first run of the night will have the highest terminal speed. Night time air temperatures at the track will typically be in the 50-80 F Range. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jan/07/2019 at 9:49am
Tom |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Jan/07/2019 at 1:04pm
|
Agree, cowl air should help... does the EFI have Intake Air Temp Sensor? or just engine temp? Those spark plugs had been in there awhile it seems... I'd probably went hotter, not colder... Thought with reading plugs, start with a fresh new set, make a full pass or a decent little "drive" then inspect / read the plugs... the "annealing ring" location on the side electrode "tells" alot... Pics of some AutoLites 65s or 66s, fresh 343/367, Torker & Holley, couple few hundred miles, MSD 6T.  
 ------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/07/2019 at 6:33pm
|
Tom, that photo of the air cleaner is the mock up design concept. I'm a little concerned about the size of the intake snorkel, so have cut that out and will make a new one that is roughly 10" x 2" to make sure plenty of air can get in. I'd previously made a cover for the wiper motor hole, so will cut a matching hole in that and use some pinchweld seal to seal everything off. Probably seal off the vents into the cabin as well to maximise any potential ram air effects.  Phat, there is an intake air temperature probe mounted somewhere on the EFI throttle, so the quoted temperature were taken from actual race data logs, that's one of the reasons I thought they were really interesting. They are average temperature for the run, probably no more than +/- 5 degrees variation across the run itself. The guys at the track are always banging on about the colder night air bringing quicker times as the night progresses, but it's certainly not something I've observed personally and it would appear the reason is obvious. Potentially knocking 50 degrees of the intake air temperature can only be a good thing. As for the spark plugs, I think you can completely disregard my previous post. The plugs obviously have a fair bit of history under different past engine conditions and on further investigation, the odd coloured NGK plug would have already looked like that when I put it in. There is obviously a bit of a science in reading plugs correctly under different conditions, however, this is one of the new NGK BP6ES plugs after the first night's racing, it looks pretty good to me.  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: Jmerican
Date Posted: Jan/07/2019 at 11:22pm
|
NO DONT DO THAT. Isn’t that where the gremlin lives?
|
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/10/2019 at 7:40am
|
Back onto the air cleaner build. Maybe I can use this to build a dual snorkel air cleaner some other time;  This looks more like it, just need to weld it in now:  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Jan/10/2019 at 12:33pm
|
Have you all happened to see what vintage, or reproduction for that matter, rare Chevy passenger side Cowl Air Duct, Air Cleaner "Kits" sale for ? 
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/10/2019 at 4:35pm
|
Yes, came across that in my google search, then the massive arguments in the Chevy forums because it was way too much to pay for the possible performance gains since lots of people don't understand how much rare vintage parts cost just because they are rare, not because the do anything special. You could ask the same question here, have you seen how much a 71 dual snorkel AMX air filter with flapper top goes for these days? ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Jan/10/2019 at 7:07pm
|
So that's a high dollar item you've conceived, designed, and fabricated there for your Gremlin! Gonna have a flexible section ? Nice work. Gonna invoice yourself what ? about $2,500 or so ?... LOL 
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/10/2019 at 7:37pm
|
$229.34 http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/spe-98801/overview/" rel="nofollow - http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/spe-98801/overview/ would be the going rate. Probably could have brought on of these in hindsight now that I have revised my design for connecting it to the cowl. Their duct on that model is too big to fit through the wiper motor hole in the cowl, but I've figured out that it doesn't need to do that. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 9:58pm
|
Final touches on the cold air induction:   Should be all good to test it out at the Nostalgia Drags at the local track next weekend. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: pfordamx
Date Posted: Jan/21/2019 at 10:53pm
| this is a really cool thread i appreciate you sharing your journey and the lag your seeing from stall to it accelerating is because you need closer to a 5100rpm converter it should flash about 1000-900 rpm below your shift point with a 3 speed( for a drag car). i really like your cowl induction and the homemade slapper bars maybe it was mentioned but what rear axle and gears and if its amc 20 still have you put good axles in it? also i would try 38-39 degrees of total timing if your running over 100 octane that seems to be the sweet spot on amc engines and use the lighest advance springs possible or better lock it out and put a start retard on it. still really cool the holley sniper unit is tempting i like that data logs thats pretty useful in a race car on its own. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 1:36am
|
AMC20 with 4.10 gears, Truetrac and Moser axles. Converter sort of fell in my lap at a bargain basement price, probably something I will need to revisit in the future. I do need to play with the timing some more,I’m just running pump gas, which I believe is equivalent to US 93 octane. Drag shocks for the front are also in the post at the moment. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 1:01pm
Tom
|
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/27/2019 at 8:56pm
|
Raced yesterday and it seems that I have achieved something with a new PB, so close to an 11 now:  Looking across a few runs, I'd say it's picked up two tenths and about 1 mph from last time out. Temperature data is a little interesting though, given that it was a day meeting, rather than the usual night meeting and averaging the numbers. Last time out (night meet) the ambient air temperature from the track weather station was 69 F, manifold air temperature 137 F, so it was a 68 degree difference. Today the ambient air temperature from the track weather station was 88 F, manifold air temperature 128 F, that is a 40 degree difference. Seems that I have definitely reduced the difference between ambient and MAT, but given that today was hotter, the cooler air entering the engine was not that much cooler than the previous event, so I'm not sure that the cold air intake can account for the improved performance.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 8:09am
| Oh wow! That's fantastic Darren! That cold air intake really helped a lot! Congrats. |
Posted By: idrambler
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 11:28am
|
congrats.......pretty cool...what is your track elevation???.... ------------- Jim....AMCRC Treasure Valley AMC Club, Pres 69 AMX 401/727 74 GremlinX 401/727race only 73 Matador 2dr HT 360/727 |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 3:58pm
|
The track is about 100' above sea level, density altitude at the weekend was around 2000', which is actually quite high for the venue, I have seen D/A down at -600' on one occasion. Will be interesting to see if it picks up a fraction on a more typical Wednesday night meet. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: idrambler
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 4:01pm
|
sweet....it should pick up little cooler temps.......the track here is 2700Ft...Summer time DA can be 5000ft plus.... ------------- Jim....AMCRC Treasure Valley AMC Club, Pres 69 AMX 401/727 74 GremlinX 401/727race only 73 Matador 2dr HT 360/727 |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 4:30pm
|
Perth Motorplex ?
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 6:12pm
That’s the one, pretty good track I reckon. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Jan/29/2019 at 7:22pm
|
Checking out YouTube Videos, looks like it could be a little slick sometimes maybe, or is it just some awesome fast 6.x second cars over power the track? Does look like a nice facility with all different kinds of racing. Do they allow bringing in your own coolers and barbecue grill and stuff?
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 2:58pm
|
So when is the next night meet? Tom
|
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jan/31/2019 at 6:51pm
|
Should be out again next Wednesday night, we have test and tune every Wednesday during the season, nothing much else unless you step up to open meets these days, Nostalgia Drags last Sunday is a once a year thing.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Feb/21/2019 at 1:49am
|
Better late than never, finally got off my butt and took the car to the track last night. I was keen to give it a run with the cold air induction under the more normal Wednesday night conditions so no changes from the previous outing. First run went down the toilet when it pushed through the line while stalling it up, next run 12.042 then this happened:  First run in the 11's, whoooo hooo, if only by 0.004 of second. Backed it up with 12.011 and 12.002. Decided to give it another couple of degrees of timing (37 deg total) and it reeled off it's best run of the night, best run ever and a little more convincing 11 second run:
Followed up with 11.993, 12.072 and 12.056, so I'm not totally convinced the additional timing made any difference. No question, the cold air intake definitely seems to be doing something. I have some no expense spared Summit Racing 3 way adjustable drag shocks to throw on the front next. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: Mostly last.
Date Posted: Feb/21/2019 at 6:23am
|
Been following this thread. Great how you keep improving on your time. ------------- 69 AMX. Aussie AMX#14 68 AMX 390 ex USA. |
Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Feb/21/2019 at 8:35am
|
That is so awesome Darren!!!!!!!!! You have really really done great things with this car! I am totally impressed with the results! |
Posted By: idrambler
Date Posted: Feb/21/2019 at 10:14am
|
Pretty Cool...congrats on the 11's...... ------------- Jim....AMCRC Treasure Valley AMC Club, Pres 69 AMX 401/727 74 GremlinX 401/727race only 73 Matador 2dr HT 360/727 |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Feb/21/2019 at 10:26am
|
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 6:59am
|
Thats good news. Now the next hurdle? The 10's? LOL Tom
|
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 5:30pm
|
Might see 10's one day when it gets a 401, but needs safety gear to go there. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 6:32pm
|
12.00 flat was my goal in the 90's with my street strip car because at my local track, any quicker. than that and they wisely required a Fire Jacket, 5-Point Harness ( I think, or 4 ), and a Roll Bar. So 12.00 flat for a street car seemed like a reasonable respectable limit or goal. No idea what current cut-off times or speeds or requirements are at my old track now. May I ask, what are the current "break points" and Safety Requirements at Perth MotorPlex ?
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 8:30pm
|
For the off street drag nights that I run things are a little more relaxed, I can run down to 11.00 as is then for 10.00 to 10.99, I would need a 4 point cage and 4 point harness, at 140 mph I need to add a parachute and for 9.99 or quicker it needs to meet current ANDRA (our version of NHRA) regulations, which would include a bunch of other requirements. Modern street cars manufactured after 2008 can run down to 10.00 as delivered. I’ll be pretty happy if I can squeeze another couple of tenths out of it as is with minor upgrades and tuning. If I actually want to enter a proper race meeting it would fit into our “Super Street” class, which is dial your own handicap racing for 10.00-13.00 second cars, so consistency becomes more important than outright speed. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: MattsGarage
Date Posted: Mar/03/2019 at 8:11pm
| It's cool seeing all the progress made thanks for sharing it with us. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/01/2019 at 5:28pm
|
Not your regular drag racing weekend, just a bit of fun in the old Gremlin with a few mates doing what we call "Go to Whoa" down under: Basically zero traction and I really need to adjust that rear brake proportioning valve I installed, but not enough time between rounds for any of that. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: Lucas660
Date Posted: Apr/02/2019 at 1:36am
|
Totally off topic but the Charger with the CH front is one of the coolest I have seen. Makes me wonder why they didn't go into production with that style. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/02/2019 at 2:23am
|
Yes, I reckon it looks great too, but obviously upsets some of the purists. It is a very well setup car with a Vortech supercharged and injected 360. Goes very fast in a straight line and around corners as well. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/04/2019 at 6:05pm
|
I had expected the Gremlin to be the king of Motorkhana cars, but apparently not: ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/04/2019 at 6:08pm
|
Purple charger showing us how it's done (For Lucas) ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: Jmerican
Date Posted: Apr/05/2019 at 6:54pm
|
ok, that is bad rump, all that playing. Some surprise performances. What’s the scoop on the XJ? That Gremlin needs to place higher. Do we set up a go fund me😃 The slappers really point down under braking. How bout some custom leafs? I’ve never studied cal tracs under braking, that type could help more that torque links. Anyhow, tuning! More vids.
|
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/05/2019 at 9:25pm
|
The XJ has a Sprintex Supercharger on the in-line 6, normally does burnout duties. Was just a bit of fun really, so I’m not sure any additional tuning is required, realised in hindsight that the 3500 stall converter is probably not helping in the motorkhana activities, maybe with some less expensive skinny tires on the back, could just light it up and keep going. Back to 1/4 mile duties I think although tempted to try a hill climb with it. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/06/2019 at 7:34am
|
Motorkhana playlist here if you want to see how the other guys went: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL06C1iaR4ESGuZVmtoAGAmHNBtB3vhXzh" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL06C1iaR4ESGuZVmtoAGAmHNBtB3vhXzh ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: Lucas660
Date Posted: Apr/06/2019 at 8:15pm
|
The purple charger is cool, but I like your driving style better. Looks like you could do with a quicker ratio steering box though. Good to see these kind of events happening. Around here it's all about burnout comps which to me get boring pretty quickly. |
Posted By: Jmerican
Date Posted: Apr/07/2019 at 12:29pm
| interesting to see how the cars work. That turbo Mopar does get a move on, but the gremlin is capable of better in that autocross/ barrel racing routine. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Apr/24/2019 at 11:35pm
|
Back to the normal course of events this week after a nearly 2 month layoff, has it really been that long? Wanted to give it a run with the 17" drag radials (Toyo Proxes TQ) while they were still on the car from the recent motorkhana event. They are probably a bit beyond their prime as a race tire being about 5 years old and it definitely showed in lack of traction off the line. Best I could manage with a gentle launch was 12.25 @ 111 mph and basically slower everywhere with a 1.86 second 60' time.  I have been contemplating changing to a drag radials when the current set of bias ply slicks wear out, so this was a good opportunity to test the water. One factor that might have come into play is that despite the 275/40/17 being 25.7" in diameter, they are noticeably smaller than the 26" slicks that I normally run and I think it might be starting to lay over at the top end of the track so maybe 6,500 rpm is pushing the limit with the current setup (did see 7000 rpm on one shift oops). Maybe some slightly taller tires will be on the cards next time. Seems a bit of a fine line, since I normally try to shift at 6,200-6,300 and if I short shift, say 5,800, it does run slower.  Slicks will be back on next time out for sure. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: May/01/2019 at 4:59pm
|
Had another hit out tonight to take advantage of some cooler night air, no temperature data on the time sheets, but would be in the low teens, so close to 10 deg C cooler than last week. Only change to the car was installing some 90/10 drag shocks on the front. The cold air didn't disappoint with a string of 11.8 second runs and an extra couple of mph over previous efforts, best run of the night was 11.74 @ 114.3 mph. Can't say I noticed any real improvement in the 60' times, so not sure if the new shocks made any difference, did drop tire pressure later in the night and saw a couple 1.69 60' times, so slightly better than previous 1.71-1.72 second efforts, but maybe more pressure than shock related. Probably highlight of the season was beating this guy:  I'm sure he wasn't really racing me, but I'll take the win anyway. Some of you guys may recognize the car from Drag Week, he has shipped it over to the US a few times to run the series:  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: May/16/2019 at 6:11am
|
Had another run last night, was quite warm considering it is getting closer to winter down here, so no PBs, best run of 11.91 @ 112.9. What I have experienced is some traction issues, it seems to get off the line without any trouble, but at the previous outing, it spun badly when shifted into second and last night it blew the tires of at the top end of first. Any thoughts on possible causes? Slicks possibly past their use by date, maybe the rear suspension needs some attention, I would be pretty confidant that the spring bushes are cactus, otherwise it's just leaf springs and slapper bars. Competition Engineering 3 way shocks set 50:50. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: May/17/2019 at 1:04pm
|
What PSI in the slicks? 3,200 lbs is right on the "break-point" per M/T tire pressure recommendations iirc, but I got my best traction running only 8 or 9 psi HOT in 26x8.5 M/T E/T Slicks. About 285-300 RWHP 3k stall 3.73's. More than that and it would not hook, bite, and lurch out on launch. But it did get a little "floaty" at the big end. --------- AMC AMX MICKEY THOMPSON SLICK INFO Oct 19, 2007 numbers off of the MT slicks I had: CY8J L8 KL388 CY8J L8 KL408 Medium---------------------------Soft B1 M7 M5 R2 R1 L8 L7 M9 B2 L4 M2 B1- For motorcycles. B2- For motorcycles. L4 - Soft compound for Dragsters, lightweight vehicles and vehicles without rear suspension. L7- For motorcycles. L8- Good compound for general use. M2- For Jr. Dragsters. M5- Good compound for general use. M7- Good compound for general use. M9- Aggressive compound for heavy cars, 3000lbs+ R1- Special Compound for ET Drag Radial. R2- Special Compound for ET Street Radial. ET DRAG AND ET STREET VEHICLE WEIGHT TIRE SIZE AIR PRESSURE UNDER 2,500 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 6 P.S.I. AND UP UNDER 2,500 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 4 P.S.I. AND UP 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 8 P.S.I. AND UP 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 6 P.S.I. AND UP OVER 3,000 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 16 P.S.I. AND UP OVER 3,000 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 10 P.S.I. AND UP #3052 = 26x8.50x15 ET Drag Mickey Thompson Part Number Nov 2008 On-Line #9553 = Suggested Tube 19 lbs. 25.9 = Diameter on Measured Rim 8.0 = inch measured rim 9.9 = Section Width 8.1 = Tread Width ---> 6.833 ft / 82" circumference = Rollout Dimension for 26 x 8.5 ET Drag Slicks #3054 = 28x9.00x15 ET Drag Mickey Thompson Part Number Nov 2008 On-Line 27.30 dia 86" Circ. 10.8 = Section Width 8.6 = Tread Width 8.0 = inch measured rim
------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: May/17/2019 at 8:19pm
|
That's pretty handy, I've been running 15-18 psi in mine, so might have to air down a bit, 26" x 10" ET Drag. Also been a while since the main drag season finished, so maybe not the best track prep for the street meets, somebody suggested they might only be spraying the first 100' or so. Not sure if I'll get another run this season, only a couple of weeks left now.
------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: May/17/2019 at 9:02pm
|
[QUOTE=PHAT69AMX]What PSI in the slicks? 3,200 lbs is right on the "break-point" per M/T tire pressure recommendations iirc, but I got my best traction running only 8 or 9 psi HOT More than that and it would not hook, bite, and lurch out on launch. But it did get a little "floaty" at the big end. ET DRAG AND ET STREET VEHICLE WEIGHT TIRE SIZE AIR PRESSURE UNDER 2,500 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 6 P.S.I. AND UP UNDER 2,500 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 4 P.S.I. AND UP 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 8 P.S.I. AND UP 2,500 TO 3,000 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 6 P.S.I. AND UP OVER 3,000 POUNDS UNDER 30" DIAMETER 16 P.S.I. AND UP OVER 3,000 POUNDS OVER 30" DIAMETER 10 P.S.I. AND UP I totally disagree with these psi recommendations. They should have done it using tire width and not diameter. I used to run 13 pounds on 28" x 9" slicks and 12 is where it would start to walk around. Regardless of what that chart says 8 or 9 pounds dangerously low on a 26" x 8.5" size slick and that's why it was squirrely on the top end, as well as, a good way to crash a car. I'll bet it wads the tires up really bad on launch as well? On a 3000 pound 65 Mustang with 14" x 32" slicks mounted on 14" wide rims we run 8 psi. The 17" x 33" tires I ran on my 98 Pro Stock Mustang and what most other PS cars run is around 5 psi. It is fairly linear that as the tire width increases you run less psi and the more narrow the tire is the more psi it requires to support the weight. When it start walking around and feels unstable it's time to increase the psi and start looking at other ways to gain more traction by either increasing tire size, adding weight in the rear bumper, improving the suspension, or a combination of all three if possible Tom
|
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: May/17/2019 at 10:05pm
|
Agree, 8 is low, lotta room between 15 and 8 though...
I do not have a picture of the rear tire at launch. It was just on a street strip car so not super fast, 106-107 ish trap speed, driven to track with radials that were swapped out for slicks once there. Stock Leaf Spring and Torque Link Rear Suspension, Stock Front susp, 6 Cyl Coil Springs, w/ Sway Bar, Front tires were 15x4 Weld DragLites with 26" Dia. 6.00 x 15 Bias Ply "Volkswagen" Tires. Here is a link to the current inflation information on the Mickey Thompson web site, it does differ from the old 2007 ? information previously posted: https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech-bulletins/street-air-pressure-guidelines" rel="nofollow - https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech-bulletins/street-air-pressure-guidelines  ------------- Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 6:39am
|
Will this cam wake up my 360 or put windows in the block: Ultradyne Custom Solid Cam and Bullet .904 Solid lifters
251/255@50 and 608/621lift 108 lsa  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 2:24pm
|
For what it's worth I ran a 250* solid lifter cam in a 302 and it was a great cam. I think you'll see noticeable gains in power with that grind. Tom ------------- Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods 1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 5:43pm
|
Heads will need some work to accommodate that much lift, would anybody know if I'm going to need deeper valve reliefs? Might almost be time to put a 401 together although I'm probably going to need a gave before that. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 10:58pm
Tom ------------- Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods 1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jul/22/2019 at 12:07am
|
It’s pretty much at the limit with the current cam, but that is on the ends of the ramps as the current cam has more total duration, still don’t fancy my chances though. I have a bit of thinking to do on this I reckon. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 5:43pm
|
I have got the word back from Bullet on valve spring specs and they have suggested to install it at 102 ICL on the smaller cube 360 to provide more early torque with the relatively tame 3500 stall I have. The cam was originally specced for a 401 build running a set of Knowlton CNC ported Eddy heads. I will have to make a decision on which direction to go with this thing. I have 291C, 993 and Edelbrock heads available to me. Currently running the 993 heads on the 360 and have been backyard ported by me, probably need to upgrade valves from the current factory jobs and do some work to accomodate the extra lift. The Eddies are untouched and would support the lift of the new cam, boost compression from current 10.5:1 up to 11:1 and would just need a bit of porting and some fresh valve springs, assuming the Eddy supplied valves are up to the task. 291C heads would have to start from scratch and once sorted would give me 11.5:1 compression. Do I persevere with the current 360 bottom end, which is ARP bolted factory rods and aftermarket cast pistons, how hard can I realistically spin this thing before something lets go? I have most of the stuff to build a stock stroke 0.030" over 401 including some nice Ross pistons, just need rods and a tonne of machine work. I'm also at 11.74 in the 1/4 now and if I run under 11.0, I will need a cage. I do like the idea of a 10 second Gremlin, but will need to check with the local fabricators to see if a cage will blow the budget. Also have to do some bodywork, would would probably be an opportune time to put the cage in as well. Any thoughts on what else I will need to upgrade for 10's, AMC20, 727, etc? Decisions? ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Aug/01/2019 at 6:29pm
|
For what it's worth I would worry about a cage now and the engine later. You can always build an engine you can't always rebuild yourself. At my local tracks there are several guys run 155 mph in the 1/8 mile. 7.50 is the break and I tell the slow guys all the time they need cages. Maybe not so much for the speed they run but for the 155 mph car that crashes into you at the top end. Besides your going to need to stiffen up the car anyway if you add more power. Tom
------------- Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods 1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
Posted By: Hurst390
Date Posted: Aug/02/2019 at 7:16am
|
In my experience I would install the cam at 104-106 ------------- SC/Hurst Rambler 11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Aug/02/2019 at 5:33pm
|
Tom, I'm inclined to agree with you as far as doing some safety upgrades first, I certainly wouldn't want to be hitting the wall at 115-120 mph. Last season they let me run against one of the Drag Week cars, who spent 5 seconds spooling his turbos on the line and passed me at the finishing line at 188 mph, which could have ended badly for me in my rusty little old Gremlin if something went wrong. At this stage I don't even have a driveshaft loop in the car. I would be thinking basic cage, decent seat, harness and the driveshaft loop as a minimum. I actually find the factory seating position terrible, always seems like you are squished up against the door, so would be good to improve the driving experience. Hurst, so you like having a bit more at the top end then. Probably address any lack or early torque with a converter upgrade. I'd have to be looking at spinning it to 7000 RPM anyway unless I do a gear change or taller tires. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |