Never replaced studs on the 69 disc rotor but have done many others, no issues:

- soak overnight in dextron/acetone

- select a deep impact socket the appropriate size for the back of the stud

- set up on hydraulic press and press the studs out

- reverse and press new studs in

Are the backs of these studs welded???

Galvin's sells the CORRECT lug studs.

Here is a before and after picture of before and after swedge studs.

Here is my hub. Notice the swedge on the lug. My question is how do I remove the Swedge?

Taking one of those swedge removal tool takes out the flare but also removes material from the hub.

Carefully drilling/grinding or drilling center out and chisel off, the button from the back and pressing the stud from back to front seems like the cleanest removal method without damaging the hub.

Early Mack trucks swedged their studs and this was their service method.

Have never run across these things, learn something new every day.  

David0141,

To post pictures, 30 points (posts) are required by list rules.

Still, if you don't put a stud back in with the swage, there is no support for the rim with a tapered nut on a rim. The rim will deform.

To achieve a proper torque you would have to repair the taper if installing a standard stud.

Still of the opinion that Mack had the better removal/replacement option. 

 A carbide tip hollow end mill will machine away the shoulder using a drill press. This will prevent damage to the valuable hub. Always felt there was more than one way to skin a cat.

BINGO! GOODSON Tools and Supply sells the Swedge Cutting Tool. Bit pricy, Part # ST-500 is $92.99. It is for 1/2" wheel studs. Goodson also sells several other sizes. Here is a picture from their website for a 1/2" Swedge cutting tool.

couldn't you just hacksaw the stud flush, or cut above the flat, and mill it close to flush? then just drive the stub out normally. and/or drill out the chopped stub to relieve the metal swaged below flush, though if it were milled flush with the hub face that metal wouldn't have much strength left.

i guess i've been lucky with my 6 cyl hubs, they use flat-headed studs and serrated press-in. are serrated press-in studs available? hard to believe the swage provides much advantage. i've never had a stud come loose, that seems like it would take an awful lot of effort/abuse to accomplish.

I think I will buy the tool from Goodson to remove.

One other question. Why does it need to be swedged going back in? 

Won't the wheel & lug nut hold every thing in place?

The swadge process  crushed the shoulder at the base of the wheel stud. I found this out the hard way. Bought an expensive set (4) of Tq Thrust ll  two-piece wheels. The wheels would not sit flush against the  FDB hubs because of a terrible wheel stud swadge job. 

You ask a good question and I have pondered it many times. The key would be finding the right wheel stud. I have looked at Dorman's extensive catalogs of wheel studs. It is like looking at NYPD's complete library of mug shots. It is amazing all the different dimensions that play into this. Here is the correct AMX wheel stud I got at Galvin's, the day his wheel stud vendor paid a visit. We had a short chat about how the correct wheel stud was not available until now. Here is a picture I took of the wheel stud. 

I removed the drum from a 62 six assembly. Knocked studs out and took the hub to a local NAPA and had it turned down to fit a Previa disc (scarebird conversion). My partner in crime found a dril bit sized  for the new studs (don't remember size) and installed them.  We used slotted mags with the uni-lug pattern .

They are a pain to remove and install but my partner had them in the garage for about 30 years and never used them. He bought them cheap.

Nick