Alternator Upgrade Questions
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Electrical - non engine
Forum Description: Charging systems, lights, non-ignition system, it goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=96242
Printed Date: Apr/18/2024 at 12:58am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Alternator Upgrade Questions
Posted By: WesternRed
Subject: Alternator Upgrade Questions
Date Posted: Sep/10/2018 at 9:16am
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Looking to upgrade the alternator on my 360 since the old Motorola one from 1971 doesn’t seem to be cutting it. I am running fuel injection and associated ancillaries, dual thermo-fans and soon to be CSR electric water pump. Thinking around 140 Amps and internally regulated would be the go. What are people using and how do you have it mounted. Doesn’t look like the factory bracketry will work with the CSR pump. This is primarily for drag racing so lots of battery draining short runs. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Replies:
Posted By: BrotherBamc
Date Posted: Sep/10/2018 at 10:36am
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http://theamcforum.com/forum/motorcraft-alternator-upgrade_topic39960_post363799.html?KW=#363799 Check this thread out.. ------------- 77 CJ5 360 73 Gremlin 401 4 speed 2006 Dodge Magnum R/T AWD http://www.lxforums.com/board/garage.php?do=user_garage_view&id=19745" rel="nofollow - My Garage |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/10/2018 at 5:41pm
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Good info there. Looks like it is a chrome Aeroflow brand a GM/Delco 120 Amp unit then, pretty much the cheapest thing available on Aussie eBay without getting into used parts. Should get the job done. The only other thing i want to do is to hook up a relay to the ignition terminal on the starter solenoid to turn off the thermo-fans while the engine is cranking to save a bit of juice. Oh, and upgrade to a mini-starter. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Sep/11/2018 at 11:21am
| A Delco cs130 from an 89 Pontiac Safari is an easy install. By cutting an inch off the back of the pivot base it will mount the same as the Motorola. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/11/2018 at 7:39pm
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Pretty sure the one I ordered is an updated version in the 10SI case and will do one or three wire hookup as needed. With the electric water pump, I won't be able to run the Motorola brackets, so will have to make something up anyway. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:17am
Just to close this out, got the alternator mounted up today: Ha ha, only kidding that was just a quick mock up to work out what I needed, this is the finished job:  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:27am
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Ha! sockets make great spacers, plus they are chromed to match. Looks nice and clean, like new even. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:36am
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Never mind the sockets, you should try finding a 7" long x 7/16" UNC bolt on a public holiday. ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 9:39am
Ah, that I understand... ended up using a head stud for my custom setup. ------------- 71 Javelin SST body 390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
WesternRed wrote:Posted By: pwrslide
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 3:56pm
With that much amperage you will want to consider running power to a new fuse panel to run the hi current draw accesories. I am running the same style 10si (100 amp) internal regulated. I ran a #6 wire to the relay and then to a Painless wiring junction block which feeds the 10 circuit underdash Painless fuse block and also the factory feed to the original fuse panel. The junction block makes it nice as I ran out of room on the relay post as you can see as the Robb MC starter feed needs to be on the hot side of the relay  |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Sep/25/2018 at 11:32pm
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I hope your socket spacers are Snap-On - otherwise people will think you are cheap. ;-) -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Sep/30/2018 at 9:30am
My solution to this was to install a bank of fused relays in the engine bay picking up power from the battery feed side of the starter relay, the alternator charge wire also connects here. Keeps everything fairly accessible, which is probably a good thing for a race car.  ------------- I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil. |
Posted By: CHAR
Date Posted: Mar/05/2019 at 5:46pm
| I dont know how your stem mount for the alternator has held up, but I tried the same thing with my '70 Boss 302. Long Grade 8 bolt with a spacer cut to hold it out into the belt plane with the adjuster underneath. Halfway thru a lap the bolt snapped at the block, the alt still wrapped around the belt tried to rip the adjuster bracket off and finally bounced out the bottom just low enough to catch the road. Then I ran over it with the oil pan. What a racket! Fab a new 'Z' type or whatever to help take that load of the bolt. the adjuster now matter how hard you tighten it, doesnt do much for ya. |