What i'm wondering, is how did this fall out of the carb. ?

if it revs out of control after you start it, without your foot on the gas etc -- check the throttle linkage. you should be able to puzzle out how it works without the manual, assuming it's assembled more or less correctly. it should snap back to the idle position when you let go. if it sticks, or stays in any position, it's AFU.

it's possible that the fast idle business is set crazy high.

carburetors are frustratingly simple and subtle. first time around you should literally go by the book.

there's a bunch of gasoline in there. if it pumps all over the place you can easily have a carb fire that turns into a garage fire, etc. you can puzzle them out yourself, but you really need to RTFM the basics of how they work -- they are nearly all the same in function -- or you'll drive yourself crazy.

keep in mind that carburetors are literally analog computing devices. with air flow, wet emulsions, Bernoulli principle (same one that makes airplanes fly, really), levers and springs and calibrated holes.

but what you're trying to do is just assembling a pre-made puzzle and tweaking it to correct. but you'll have to read how carbs work or you'll not get anywhere useful.

Thank you very much for the response, that was not directed towards you as your response was just what I needed. I was priding the forum in my last post for being extremely helpful, there's always gotta be THOSE guys though. Anyways, thank you!

 

 I have had a brass carb. float that had a hole in it, it sunk to the bottom of the float bowl and wouldn't close the needle valve .  Engine RPM went very high instantly.   Had to shut the engine down.

Finally figured out what the cause was.  Different exact cause,  but the same effect.

We all make mistakes, that's how we learn.

i think OP said the needle fell out of the OLD carb, not the new one. right? i confuse. lol.

so you got a new carb, and it "runs away" RPM-wise? any more info on that? i'll assume you can ID the major adjustments:

* idle SPEED screw

* idle MIXTURE screw

* FAST IDLE screw

* choke

those are the main adjustments on any carb. if you're reasonably sure the carb isn't completely nuts, what i would do first is loosen the choke housing and rotate it so that the choke is OFF/OPEN, and inoperable. the engine won't be easy to make idle when it's cold but the choke sets fast idle and that complicates initial shake out. you can easily re-set it later.

back out the idle SPEED screw so the throttle closes all the way. looking closely, turn it in until the screw touches the stop, then another turn, maybe two.

idle MIXTURE screw bottomed, **GENTLY** (two fingers or equiv) then out 1.5 to 2 turns, or wtf the manual sez.

if there's fuel in the carb (you cranked/ran it before) operatring the throttle all the way open should squirt gas, visibly, on the venturi horn down it's throat. which you should be able to see with the choke off.

start the car. if it NOW runs away, somethings very AFU. stop adn regroup.

if you're lucky, it will fire, run for a few seconds, then stall or idle like crap. that's fine. this is the base line from which to tweak the carb into shape.

if you always start from First Principles, you can make any carb go "well enough" with basic knowledge.

No, he's not trolling. The float needle fell out of his carburetor and he is unfamiliar with where it goes in the carburetor. 

And I was an asshole to joke about it. I'm sorry and I am ashamed. He is 26 and I am 23. We need each other's help in this community. The classic car community is not kind to young people. Fighting that for years has made me bitter and resentful, which is why I made my snappy remark at him. I became that which I hate: I became an angry bitter car guy holding another car guys' age or inexperience against them. I HATE when people do that to me, and I was a total hypocrite to do that someone else. Sometimes I need a reminder that another young person in the classic car hobby is not my enemy or competitor. They are my ally against true enemies and competitors. 

Sorry for that, Brad2192. I am glad you figured it out on your own and stood up for yourself. 

FSjunkie, you're --> 23 <-- ? oh boy, OPEN SEASON! HORRIBLE YOUNG PERSON! heh heh! lol

i thought  you were older. that could be flattery or an insult. YOU DECIDE.

yeah, it seems most car folk (dangerous generalizing...) go for nostalgia. young people making mistakes doesn't fit into that. i don't really understand nostalgia, i didn't get that gene. ugh, i don't want what i had before, i wanna do new things (sometimes with old stuff, eg. cars, cuz they're hackable. i add software.) i feel like i mostly make mistakes. i have piles of them. just installed my 7th (seventh) instrument panel today). 

i did far dumber stuff, and persisted at it, than just mis-identifying a stupid needle valve. but it was pre-internet, so fewer witnesses.

also, the culture then was a lot more comfortable with the logic of physical stuff, physical problem-solving. today, "kids" (lol) all of the goods, and all of the metaphors, are software constructs. in the 70's, old guys complained that kids were playing with computers instead of radios/electronics, as $DIETY intended. today, it's all clicking on corporate-managed phone-product.

owed fokes should FKN CELEBRATE "young people" messing with physical, actual technology -- it's much harder now for very many reasons including there's simply less of it to mess with.

That was probably the coolest dung I've ever heard come from anyone. Thanks for the apology, like everyone said that is some real-man action to do what you just did, made the whole post worth it. 

No problem. Respect of young people in the classic car hobby is a big soap box of mine. 

Do you know the most common reason for why people put others down? For why they insult others? It's because they are insecure about themselves, or more specifically are insecure about how they are seen within a group of people. They are worried about their "status" within that group. They see a newcomer, a younger person, a weaker person, or a more ignorant person as an opportunity to prove they are of a higher status. They insult that person to make that person look weaker while making themselves look stronger.

It's very masculine and caveman. Competitive. Primal. The males of almost all species do it. They compete for status and respect. The young ram wants status, the old ram wants to defend it, so they see each other as threats and fight. The weak are seen as easy targets to demonstrate one's status. Human men do it too. Especially online. Especially in car groups. Most wars and atrocities can be traced to this. "We are strong, they are weak, let's go kill them and take their property." 

We must resist that. Especially if we want young people to join us. We must find ways to be secure in ourselves and not see others as a threat or competition. If we do that, there is no reason to insult others or put them down. Everybody is happier. 

I think the entire world would benefit from that. 

But I have installed a carb with a hole in the float, and it  did display close to the same symptom.

When I cranked  it, the RPM ran away, couldn't control it, I cut the ignition off in about 1-2 seconds.

When I looked under the hood, yes, there was gas spilling out of the carb, it probably would have choked itself to a stop from way too much gas if i'd let it run longer, I just didn't give it a chance.

But the point being the car will start,  if it's a quick starting engine, even if there is completely no control of the fuel coming into the carb float bowl.   But the RPM will instantly climb and you won't be able to stop it, except by killing the ignition.

The difference being most of my AMC engines started very easy, ( just shake the keys at it,  as they say )  no long cranking period unless it was very cold.

It wound up being the issue. The new carb did not come with the piece only the gasket, but when it was out it revved up to the point of almost grenading. The next day when I got out of work I pulled off the line before the float chamber and tossed it in there, wound up working just fine now.