Print Page | Close Window

Scrambler Windshield Install

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Body/Interior
Forum Description: Paint, glass, interior, rust, sheetmetal goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=95779
Printed Date: Mar/29/2024 at 4:27am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Scrambler Windshield Install
Posted By: scramboy
Subject: Scrambler Windshield Install
Date Posted: Aug/11/2018 at 8:00pm
I recently had a new windshield installed in my Scrambler with new clips and a new gasket by a "professional" $225 later (don't laugh its NY). He couldnt get the P/S vertical molding to sit flush so he proceeded to dent it and glue it on with eurethane. I don't want to discuss his mistakes I just want to know any experiences with Scrambler windshield installation because Im going to re-do it myself. It seems that over and over anything I farm out ends in a disaster. I don't care if I do it 5 times I want it right.



Replies:
Posted By: 6768rogues
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 9:40am
I install the gasket on the glass, and hold it in place with masking tape. Then soap the groove that goes on the pinch weld with some dish soap. Insert a piece of nylon sash cord in the rubber groove and put the windshield in place on the outside of the frame. As a helper pushes it in from outside, you are inside pulling the sash cord to peel the rubber over the pinch weld. I like to have one of these tools at hand: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Malco-SideSwiper-Siding-Removal-Tool-SRT2/100098527" rel="nofollow - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Malco-SideSwiper-Siding-Removal-Tool-SRT2/100098527
It is a vinyl siding removal tool and only costs a nominal amount. If the rubber gets stuck, that tool will slide in and grab it to get it going properly again. After it is in, you can slide it around and get it centered. That is why I don't put any sealant on it. I recently had one professionally done with new glass and they didn't put sealer on it, either. If it leaks later or if you want it sealed, you can use a tube of flowable sealer and put it under the rubber.
After it is done and centered, the trim should slip in.
With a helper or two, it is not too  hard to do. I had one done professionally because I wanted new glass and they provided the glass and installed it for about the same price a piece of glass would cost me delivered. Glass was $250 plus $150 delivery if I bought one and the glass shop did it, tax and all, for $407. They did a perfect job.


-------------
Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.

Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 11:33am
I'm a professional.  I've installed rubber gasket windshields in everything from a 55 Chevy wrap around, to a Kenworth  split front windshield.

I done it without sealant and with.
Noticed no big difference in being able to slide the glass around a little to center it with or without the sealant.  
It is messier using the sealant,  but you just wipe the rope off as it comes to hand,  and clean up after the job is done.

I have noticed the none sealant jobs did have a greater occurance of small leaks,  that you might,  or might not, be able to stop later with sealant.

Leaks are like a lot of other car problems,  it better to do it right in the first place,  than to try to stop it later with a patch job.

I know why a lot of "professionals " don't use the sealant first,  it's faster, and there's no clean up later.
Time is uppermost in their world, get the job done and on to the next job.



-------------
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: gtoman_us
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 1:34pm
The TSM for the 64 Ambassador calls for sealant at the top dead center. My factory installed windshield did have that in place about 18" long. I have seen several of the big cars with water damaged headliners in replacement windshield that did not have the sealant. Interesting to note that the factory sealant/adhesive was still flexible 42 years later.

-------------
Moderator - Emeritus

Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"


Posted By: Samuelsc360
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 2:06pm
I installed gasketed windshields for almost 30 years. Never used sealant and never had one to leak.

-------------
1971 SC360
1973 Ambassador Sedan 360
1973 Hornet X 360
1973 Javelin AMC 401
1975 Sportabout X 258


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 4:14pm
I've installed them for 45 years,  probably just a few hundred, but to tell the truth, a few did leak.
But most of the windshields I replaced were because of a serious collision, with lots of body and chassis damage, sometimes breaking the windshield just because of chassis flex, not from a direct impact.

Most that I remember that did leak came back later with the leak. 
 Because I usually tested a windshield just after I installed it, when I had time.

But a few did slip past, and came back later with small leaks, usually near the corners.  So that's where I began to pay particular attention to and add sealant.

I hate come backs.


-------------
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: gtoman_us
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 5:46pm
Since I am a complete armature/ shade tree I just read what the TSM tells me to do. Why I am current on the topic is that I am ready to install my 64' Ambo windshield next weekend. My Buddy who is a pro installer will lead the install and I am going to assist.

With the custom fabric I had produced for the wagon head liner I used as heck don't want to risk water pushing through at highway speeds.

-------------
Moderator - Emeritus

Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles

1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO
1931 Model A original survivor
"Flat Roofs are Cool"


Posted By: scramboy
Date Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 7:39pm
My car is mostly a cruise night/drag car it will never be driven in the rain (maybe trailered), I discovered that the installer didn't seat the windshield on the drivers side it was out 1/8". Im getting another new gasket this week and Im going to attempt it myself. I will see how it goes if I need sealant or not. There are some good videos on youtube on how to install a Mustang windshield, its very similar. It does seem everyone has their own sealing methods.


Posted By: scramboy
Date Posted: Sep/02/2018 at 8:33am
Did a test install with a new gasket dry and the drivers side still sticks out 1/8 inch. The pinch weld is completely clean and repainted, new clip's and a second new gasket. Could the windshield be formed incorrectly? It is a brand new Pilkington glass windshield. This is very frustrating.


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Sep/02/2018 at 10:31am
Wasn't aware anyone was still making new windshields for the Americans 64-69.

Does it have any numbers on it that could give any clues as to when and where it was made ?


-------------
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: 6768rogues
Date Posted: Sep/02/2018 at 3:40pm
Did you check to see if the car is bent? With a lot of torque and a lightweight unit body car, there is a lot of twist when launching or shifting, especially with engine and/or tire modifications. I saw a Chevy II that twisted so hard on launch that they had to strap the doors closed.
For those looking for a windshield, I looked around and an AMC vendor wanted $250 plus $150 shipping. Ray Sands Glass in Rochester, NY provided the glass and installed it for me for $407, and in that price was a new piece of glass, shipping and installation. I provided a new rubber gasket and the polished trim. To avoid the cost of a mobile installation, I trailered my car over to their shop. I drove it in the shop, they did the glass, and the next day I drove it out of their shop. They did not even move the car. It is perfect. They are now my glass shop.


-------------
Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.

Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.


Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Sep/02/2018 at 4:00pm
It might be a good idea to check the openings for square.

Take a tape measure and go from one diagonal corner to the other,  they should be the same within 1/4 inch.  Or if you have access to a tram bar,  it's much more accurate for such measurements.
 Also check A-pillar height from side to side.
  If the opening is out of square,  it's easy to get it in square with a Porta-Power.

You'd be surprised how easy it is to jack that front,  or rear window opening around when there's no window in the opening.


-------------
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: scramboy
Date Posted: Sep/02/2018 at 4:26pm
Those are all valid points but the windshield that I just removed fit just fine and for all I know was in there for 49 years. The drivers side is 1/8 in more forward than the pass side, it can also explain why the drivers side vertical molying won't go on.I will call Pilkington on Tuesday. I've really had a run of bad luck in my AMC endeavor's lately.



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net