Oil Pan Removal
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made I-6 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94474
Printed Date: Apr/16/2024 at 12:33pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Oil Pan Removal
Posted By: Mickey12
Subject: Oil Pan Removal
Date Posted: May/31/2018 at 8:15am
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How do I remove my oil pan to replace a leaking gasket from my '65 6cy. Classic without engine removal? Read a few posts, but still asking.
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Replies:
Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: May/31/2018 at 11:00pm
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there's really no easy way drop the cross member or pull the motor you might get away with dropping the cross member alittle and support the engine without dropping the suspension with it either way its time consuming ------------- 69 amx 290 auto 65 220 290 4spd 80 ford fairmont |
Posted By: Greyhounds_AMX
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 6:08pm
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In the TSM there's a procedure where they use a beam of some sort across the top of the fenders to hold up the engine. Then you can take out the crossmember and then get at the oil pan. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 w/T5 |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 6:30pm
| With the V8's, support the engine from above and lower the cross member and drag link to get the oil pan out, I presume the 6 is the same. You don't need to take the cross member right out, just remove the 4 attaching bolts/nuts and pull it down a bit, that way you don't mess up your front end alignment. |
Posted By: Mickey12
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 6:49pm
| Great info guys!!!!!! Thanks. |
Posted By: Pdok
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:24pm
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I'll throw this out there, as far as I can tell from reading the 6-cyl oil pan removal experience is pretty much the same across the various years. After successfully doing mine with the engine in the car, I swore never again without pulling the motor/trans (as a unit). But, totally doable in the car too. But, I unbolted the x-member, unbolted steering gearbox, unbolted motor mounts, sway bar, seems like some other stuff (exhaust probably), accel and trans linkages, shifter, etc. (it's pretty obvious what to unhook) then raised the engine from overhead until the trans hit the tunnel with a hoist while letting the x-member hang to bottom of bolts. Did not clear enough to get the pan out, however. I had to wedge 2x4s and force the x-member down another 1.5 inches to slide the pan free (barely). In retro, by the time I got all that disconnected, I could have just hoisted the motor clear anyway without the hassle of the crossmember. I was already doing a cam and head, so most of the accessories, hoses, wires were disconnected anyway. That may not be your situation though. One thing I didn't try was drop the trans mount and tilt the motor/trans at a steep angle to get more clearance at the crossmember. Just didn't occur to me from under the car on my driveway. If it were me, I'd replace all 3 eng/trans mounts, rear seal, and inspect the bottom end, oil pickup carefully while the pan is off and engine is jacked up. Not sure on crossover to your year, but the Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket is a thing of beauty if it fits for you. Not a drip from mine now.  ------------- 76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:07pm
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Pdok, my experience was that you have to disconnect the strut rods from the lower arms (4 bolts) to release any tension there, then the cross member will pull well down and not need to be wedged down. I tried wedging it down like you, but just couldn't get enough clearance. Forgot to mention that above. Home made engine support:  Cross member well clear, note disconnected pitman arm and would have unbolted the idler arm from the frame as well.  |
Posted By: Pdok
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:16pm
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That's much better...I didn't have a puller for the pitman arm and it wouldn't come off without one. Yes, strut rods, forgot about that. You guys are much craftier than I was... ------------- 76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap. |
Posted By: WesternRed
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 9:22pm
| Don’t worry, took me a while to figure out why the cross member wouldn’t drop, then it dawned on me to release the tension from the strut rods |
Posted By: amcenthusiast
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 10:02pm
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Excellent pic there by Western Red & good explanation. Similar DIY engine lift tool is shown in some Chilton's Repair Manuals... hint hint ------------- 443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/ |
Posted By: PROSTOCKTOM
Date Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 11:54pm
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Pulling the engine is a lot less time consuming than trying to downall the bottom end off the car. Probably a whole lot safer as well. You can have the engine out and back in before you get done unhooking everything and you won't have to get the frontend realigned after your done. Tom
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Posted By: matty 401
Date Posted: Jun/02/2018 at 8:35am
 this is what i used from NAPA part number 791-7125 about 100 bucks ------------- 72 matador 401 the beast 79 concord 2 door 72 matador 304 grasshopper 68 Rogue 406 93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed |
Posted By: Greyhounds_AMX
Date Posted: Jun/02/2018 at 12:18pm
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Good point on taking the engine out. We couldnt get the rear main seal out of the block until we heated it with a torch, and it would have felt alot safer doing that on an engine stand. ------------- 1968 AMX 390 w/T5 |
Posted By: trewyn15
Date Posted: Jun/02/2018 at 5:58pm
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With the V8's, couldn't you just hoist them from the top to get enough space since the oil pump is in the rear and behind the cross member? ------------- 2020 Ram 1500 Big Horn Night Edition 2000 Trans Am WS6 1989 Trans Am GTA 1989 Grand Prix ASC/McLaren 1983 AMC Concord DL 1966 AMC Rambler Rebel Classic |