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removing driveshaft on 64 american

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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Transmission & Drivetrain
Forum Description: If it's between the engine and wheels, it goes here
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=92487
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 7:28pm
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Topic: removing driveshaft on 64 american
Posted By: auag85201
Subject: removing driveshaft on 64 american
Date Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 7:05pm
i was going to pull the driveshaft on my american ..crawled under and saw a strange coupler holding the driveshaft to the rear end...has anyone ever messed with one of these?..whats the easiest way to pull the driveshaft out ?




Replies:
Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 8:25pm
That is commonly referred to as the "big nut" driveshaft.   Instead of messing with that fastener which requires large wrenches and lots of torque to loosen, you can remove the c-clips from the rear u-joint and disconnect it there.  You will need a good light and a small screwdriver to pry the retainer clips out.  Once you get one out, you will realize that it is not so hard.  Joe

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Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: ramblinrev
Date Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 8:38pm
Don't mess with the big nut! Like Joe said...split the u-joint and get the driveshaft out.

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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 11:46pm
the big nut axle is a big PITA... i bought the wrenches and do it the hard? easy? way. joe's suggestion is a good one.

http://sr-ix.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Big-nut/" rel="nofollow - http://sr-ix.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Big-nut/




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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: graewolf
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 12:00am
Thank you tomj! I was about to pull mine to replace the seal. What size are the wrenches you used? And did you find a seal that worked? Thanks in advance.....

Perk


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Americans, 65 Convertible, 64-65 Wagons, 64 220 2Dr, 66 2Dr Hardtop..... They follow me home!!!


Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 12:08am
I took my drive shaft out and never could get it to stay on after that ended up just changing the rear end good luck in your endever

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69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: auag85201
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 12:31am
that is a crazy way to attach a yoke to a rear end...lol...how do you set the preload on the pinion bearings?


Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 1:17am
that has nothing to do with preload but you have to make sure its on far enough or you send the drive shaft in to the trans to far yes it is a funky set up

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69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: Ken Doyle
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by mixed up mixed up wrote:

I took my drive shaft out and never could get it to stay on after that ended up just changing the rear end good luck in your endever

You've got to get it really clean, and use a special version of Loctite made for splines.

But if you don't really have to remove the rear yoke, DON'T !


Posted By: auag85201
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 2:18pm
thanks for the replies...i didnt want to mess with that yoke....i'll try to break the ujoint loose and split it on the car


Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 9:35pm
Originally posted by graewolf graewolf wrote:

Thank you tomj! I was about to pull mine to replace the seal. What size are the wrenches you used? And did you find a seal that worked? Thanks in advance.....


the wrenches: i bought a pair fairly inexpensively, "fuller" brand, from amazon. they were hard to find -- simply because searching the size, i think it's2-3/8", but measure --  turned up mostly tiny little wrenches! they're nice things have on the wall too.

alas, as far as i know there are no seals that fit. direct replacements are long gone. i never found a solution -- i replaced it with a narrowed mustang 7.5" axle (they're cheap, everyone thinks they need the 8"). even autozone has parts for that.

mine wasn't leaking (though it was only a matter of time...). even the driveshaft was worn out; the cups were loose in the cast yokes.

i have two of these boat anchors down here, free to anyone who wants them. both ratios (std and twin stick). new axle bearings and flawless brakes. in los angeles. obviously gotta be local to get them. i will likely scrap them this year.



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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 9:39pm
as far as tightening it goes, i finally got mine to stop slipping when i chopped an access hole in the pan to get it from the top -- up on a lift would do but i dont have one -- as 300 flt lbs of torque is not easy to generate even with a pair of 36" long wrenches.

there are a number of Nash design left overs in this car to remind you of just why it was they were failing and needed to merge with Hudson... and not one speck of Hudson technology survived the merger, so Nash had the good stuff.

the unibody design is pretty great, it's a marvel. its light and very very stiff.



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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com



Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 12:36am
the rear end I replace mine with because I went v8 was a 8inch ford out of a maverick it fit perfect but a this point I think that might be hard to find

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69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Feb/20/2018 at 6:36am
It's held on that way because the pinion gear is the same as used in the bigger Ramblers with torque tubes and slip couplings at the rear -- just one u-joint at the front. Pinion bearing preload is set by a nut under that cupped seal shield and stepped seal. Which reminds me -- that seal is darned near impossible to find. The metal housing has a step in it to clear the pinion bearing nut, and is no longer made. 65 was the last year for that design. I've often thought about making a seal adapter. Piece of tubing to fit where the original seal did in the housing, straight out then another piece of tubing to hold a seal that fits the pinion shaft. Would have to ditch the seal protector, but a lot of drive shafts are missing those. They were just crimped on, and could be knocked loose by road debris. When it started "ringing" due to being loose, many just cut it off, or it comes off when the shaft is off.

When you pull the driveshaft by taking the u-joint apart the car must be supported by the rear axle. If the axle is hanging the driveshaft moves forward enough to bind against the transmission. As long as weight is on the axle (or tires if you have a drive-on lift/ramps/pit) it can be done easy enough. I use a block of wood against the shaft (make sure it's against the very end, not the tube itself) and knock the shaft over to drive one cap off, then carefully pull the cross back into the opposing cap and drive it off. Helps to have the axle on jack stands so you can turn one tire and rotate the shaft where needed.


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Frank Swygert



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