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Rear Glass sealing issue

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Body/Interior
Forum Description: Paint, glass, interior, rust, sheetmetal goes here.
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=91810
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 9:18am
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Topic: Rear Glass sealing issue
Posted By: ffltstn
Subject: Rear Glass sealing issue
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 10:26pm
The car I recently bought from a reputable body man has some leaks around the rear glass. He uses Butyl tape and I see the black primer stuff was used. Can the leaks be fixed? Heat up tape? Add some butyl sealant? Or am I stuck having to reinstall the window? (something I have never done). 

It looks like water always pools at the bottom of the glass, (outside) anything that can be done about that also?
Thanks,
Ken



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Ken In Orlando Fl.
'73 Javelin AMX
'73 Javelin



Replies:
Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 10:49pm
I've never had much success sealing a leak on a butyl window once it has leaked for a little while.

Back in the day when I did a lot of butyl windows, I'd water test it immediately.  If there was a problem,   I'd dry out the area with gentle air pressure, and reapply a little of the butyl primer in that spot with a small acid brush,  let it dry, then apply a small bit of the left over butyl, stuffing this in tight with a nylon window stick.

But if it has been leaking for a while,  the leak area will be dirty,  and there's no way to clean it out so fresh butyl will stick.  And about the only thing that will stick to butyl is butyl, or it's primer,  other than your fingers.    Silicone or urethane will not stick to butyl good enough to seal long term.

 Heating up a tempered glass with a heat gun is just begging for a shattered window.

Seeing as how you're in Florida, it might be warm enough to let the sunshine heat up the glass,  I've removed many a butyl glass  by heating it in the sun and then just pushing it out.  But heating the butyl still isn't likely to clean the leaking area enough for the butyl to reseal.

To be honest with you, after working with butyl early in my bodyman career,  I consider it a obsolete material,  I only use it if someone insist on me using it,  and will only take the job if I know the car is going to be a garage queen.


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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: ffltstn
Date Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 4:35pm
OK so if that's how i need to go what do you recommend to use to seal it? Whats the procedure? I'm having trouble finding much information on line about replacing an classic cars window.
Thanks,
Ken


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Ken In Orlando Fl.
'73 Javelin AMX
'73 Javelin


Posted By: 1948kaiser
Date Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 9:16am
car?


Posted By: hassyfoto
Date Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 5:52pm
Urethane is the preferred replacement method. There are multiple urethane products available to reset the glass. Unfortunately you will need to remove the glass, clean all the old adhesive off the glass and the pinch weld of the car, possible remove the paint on the pinch weld, clean & apply urethane primer, apply the correct bead of urethane and reset the glass in place.

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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment



Posted By: Bruce Clarkson
Date Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 10:17pm
I'm sure the above are the better sure thing but I had a similar situation with the front windshield on my 67 Ambassador. I did not want to risk removal. Instead I first tried a leak sealant. I think it was a Locktite product. It's a very runny sealant that sealed my issues (I assume) via capillary action. I was sure I'd need to pull the glass, was not looking forward to it, and avoided it.

I bet this doesn't work for everyone but it saved my bacon a couple of years ago.

Of course, your milage may vary.
Bruce Clarkson

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Bruce Clarkson



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