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Spun Axle Tube

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Transmission & Drivetrain
Forum Description: If it's between the engine and wheels, it goes here
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=89934
Printed Date: Mar/28/2024 at 3:17pm
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Topic: Spun Axle Tube
Posted By: Red20
Subject: Spun Axle Tube
Date Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 12:28am
I haven't had the chance to crawl under it yet, but I'm suspecting I may have spun a tube. I launched fairly hard from a stop sign on a road with no traffic where I often accelerate hard for fun and something didn't feel right. It didn't hook up and launch very hard. It was mushy, for lack of a better description. The the rest of the drive home felt a little like I had two low tires on the passenger side. It wasn't pulling hard, just felt off and the car didn't feel level. When I parked and looked at it, the rear end was a good 1-1/2" - 2" lower on the passenger side.

Any thoughts on possible causes. I was thinking either spun tube, broken leaf, damaged spring pocket/unibody, spring perch...? Is there a quick way to tell if a tube is spun?

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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER



Replies:
Posted By: Gelalthedamned
Date Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 4:17am
I broke a rear shock mount once

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Calamity - 73 Gremlin X zombie rod (daily driver)


Posted By: Red20
Date Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 4:44am
I hope it's something simple like that! The shock mount is on the lower u bolt plate. Maybe the upper mount tore through? I should know later this afternoon after I get it up in the air and crawl around underneath. I need to reinforce and move my sway bar mounting pads on the unibody rail also. I installed it when I had the original springs in the car. With the HD springs and extra leaf, the ride height change causes the end links to not be straight up and down. I'm really liking the ride with the forward clamped HD AMX springs and extra leaf. Hope one's not broken.

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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER


Posted By: Lyle
Date Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 7:52am
For 69 take a close look at the upper shock mount area. Sorry to say but this is weaker then the lower mount if the car did not have the cross mount plate installed (which would be the easiest fix).


Posted By: 6768rogues
Date Posted: Sep/24/2017 at 7:55am
Sounds to me like a spring problem, broken or twisted. With the U bolts torqued and spring plates welded to the tube, it is hard to twist a tube but it could happen. Twisting that tube would have had to hold the spring wound up to make the car lower on one side. If it slipped inside the U bolts, it would not be lower. Shocks do not support weight, but I guess a severely bent mounting point could hold the shock at its limit but it would have to be really bent. I hope it is not serious damage to a suspension mounting point. I would start with the springs, I have broken leaves several times and not always by doing hard launches, sometimes they just break. Look closely, could be a break buried in the spring pack.


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Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.

Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 7:32am
Check to see if the hub moved on the axle -- unless you're using one piece aftermarket axles. Easy to see -- pull the center cap of the wheel then take the axle nut off. If the key is sheared or moved...

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Frank Swygert


Posted By: Red20
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 8:49am
Thanks gentlemen! I haven't had more than 2 minutes to look under the car this weekend. I was gone most of the week and the honey-do list was long this weekend plus 5 kids and sports. A quick look didn't reveal a broken leaf or spun tube. BUT I'm probably missing something. It'll have to wait until this weekend to put the car in the air and go through everything. If I had money, I'd just get all new springs front and rear and rebuild or replace the rear end altogether.

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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER


Posted By: 6768rogues
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 2:35pm
The car sitting lower on one side is what lead me to believe that it is a spring problem. Even if it does not appear to be broken, take some measurements to be sure. Sometimes breaks can be hidden from sight.


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Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.

Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.


Posted By: Red20
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 5:06pm
Originally posted by 6768rogues 6768rogues wrote:

The car sitting lower on one side is what lead me to believe that it is a spring problem. Even if it does not appear to be broken, take some measurements to be sure. Sometimes breaks can be hidden from sight.


That's what I'm hoping it is. I'm wanting to either rebuild the Model 20 and go with solid axles and a Detroit OR swap in a 9" (possibly a built 8"). But I'm not ready financially to do that yet. Springs aren't cheap, but I know where I can get another used pack to custom build kind of like I did this set. But even if I get a new pair, it's cheaper than a new rear end.

Ideally, I'd just have the money and go ahead and build a new rear end, get some Calvert Racing split monos and CalTrac bars and get new, proper lower front coils. My cut front coils and Frankenstein rear leaf packs work and look great but aren't exactly long term solutions. I'm working my way through the 60s and 70s tech on my way to actually doing things right with modern aftermarket technology. Nostalgia by virtue of a limited budget and the desire to tinker and hack, I suppose.

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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER


Posted By: Lyle
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 6:47pm
Trucks break springs all the time and they have curve and load charts that go way back for cars and trucks of almost any make and model. If you have one side broken you will have to do both anyhow. I had mine re-curved and an extra leaf added for $225. I know others will say go new but there has been decades of these people doing this work and a good shop will know what they are doing and you will likely get a better product at the end of the day.


Posted By: Red20
Date Posted: Sep/25/2017 at 7:21pm
I'm with you, Lyle. I actually really liked the ride I had with the HD AMX springs with my own home brewed add a leaf. I'm sure a recurve from a reputable shop would work nicely.

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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 6:27am
Late model Ranger 8.8" is about the right width, Explorer axle is 1.5" too wide. Of course that can be corrected with deeper offset wheels... 

Recurve of the springs usually works, really depends on the shop and just how bad the springs are. I have heard people say they don't always last very long. I'd get new ones if the cost isn't that much over recurving. I've only had early Americans with leaf springs, and just used a half-leaf overload spring to bolster them. Coil springs on the rear of the big cars are so much nicer, either order new springs or use an Air-Lift insert type air spring. You can adapt a pickup Air-Lift overload spring to the Javelin fairly easy though. Would have to mod/fab the mounts, but should bolt onto the axle fairly easy. The upper mount would be a little more difficult. Don't need an air compressor, just check air occasionally like your tires (maybe more often that that...).


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Frank Swygert



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