Edelbrock heads vs Indy
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Topic: Edelbrock heads vs Indy
Posted By: kingsX
Subject: Edelbrock heads vs Indy
Date Posted: Sep/09/2017 at 10:52am
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Hey guys, I'm gathering parts to build my 401 this winter and I'm debating on Edelbrock vs Indy heads. I'm somewhat copying Shootist's build but using a Vortec V3 blower rather than the Procharger he used. I'm sure both will perform excellently. Just looking for some pros/cons from folks who have used either or both. I appreciate all comments good or bad. Thanks, Steve ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC  
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Replies:
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/09/2017 at 12:03pm
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The Edelbrock is a street performance that is fairly nicely finished and reasonably engineered. It is not designed as a race head and port csa's are not hugely different than stock. It is a good street performance head, relatively bolt on, good for the average guy. The Indy is a much more race oriented design and not as well finished. It has a raised SSR and the csa through the middle is huge, but the port inlet is squeezed down to stock csa to mate with a stock size port manifold. In stock form an Indy is a long way from optimized, and with the ports raised you need either china wall spacers or the Indy Intake, which is also huge. To make best use of an Indy it wants a lot more work, but also has a lot more potential. It is better for the guy who wants serious performance, and has the skills to make proper use of the head.
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Posted By: 401jim
Date Posted: Sep/09/2017 at 1:39pm
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Ditto with Ken!!!!! Indy is for racing and eddy is for mild performance. ------------- 
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Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Sep/09/2017 at 1:40pm
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I've got the Indy SRs on my street 401 with AirGap intake. A couple advantages of Indy heads: - can drill for extra head bolts without hitting water (no sleeves required). Not sure at what level with a blower extra bolts are needed? - can order with springs to suit solid or roller cam up to 0.650" valve lift. My cam is 0.616"/0.624" so Edelbrock heads would need work to suit. I ordered the Indys set up to suit. However, as Ken said they required a fair bit of cleaning and prep work, check all bolt holes, deck flatness, valve runout, etc. I used the ARP bolt kit, made end rail spacers from aluminium square bar from Home Depot, machined for extra head bolts and used FelPro head gaskets and valley pan. Used Hooker 7103s which had previously been modified at flanges to fit stock heads. Haven't seen Edelbrock heads, but by all accounts they are a better bolt-on option for most street applications. Hope this helps,RD
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Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/10/2017 at 11:14am
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Thanks for the responses guys. My car is 90% street car with an occasional trip to the track. Sounds like Edelbrock's should be the way to go for me. ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/10/2017 at 12:55pm
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The Edelbrock head is an excellent product and with 185CC's out of the box they have the cross sectional area of a ported set of iron heads. The bowl is larger and better than factory iron but the runner is small for a 2.02" valve if you care about sizing it There is enough casting material to open them up from the entrance to the top of the turn, which is where they need to be bigger. For a street car as described they are fine out of the box as long as they are taken apart and inspected and cleared of any issues. One thing I am up in the air about concerning them is the exhaust port which flows 160 out of the box on my bench, not the 190 advertised. With some porting I am sure this number will come up to advertised or more. Another exhaust concern is, the exit is a lot smaller than factory. Scribing a header gasket on the exit shows that if I match the bottom of the runner it will have about .080-.100 max for a sealing surface. I have decided to match from the floor up only. The ridge that will be left may have an added benefit of preventing exhaust pulse reversion but unless an A, B dyno test was done I do not know if it hurts, helps, or makes no difference. All in all they are a very nice product. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/11/2017 at 5:53pm
 
------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/11/2017 at 6:25pm
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The csa on the edelbrock exhaust is REALLY small where the bowl transitions around the bend. My opinion is it should be bigger for performance use. Would like the resources to properly test. I've done a couple sets and been pretty happy with the results. Have a set on my Rambler, and it was a bit of an experiment for max output in a truly street low maintenance application; "relatively" mild hydraulic cam (lotsa different opinions on that) and pump gas. I did not want the Indy height and port csa, although it is clearly a better head for the power I was looking for. So I went with Eddys and made the csa exactly what I wanted. A lot of work, and not really recommended for others, but sometimes I'm and idiot. It made 567 hp and 560 ft-lbs, so far an 11.05 @ 126 with the pathetic launch a street clutch and combo will give. That was in street trim, full "relatively" quiet exhaust. It's actually too much low end, even in 3rd it will blow the tires loose if you roll into the throttle. My wife is scared of it now; be careful what you ask for when you go hunting for torque.
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Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/11/2017 at 7:13pm
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I agree on the small exhaust runner as cast. I will post runner volumes, flow and pictures when I am done with them later this week or next week. I think the intake runner will be around 195-200 cc's when I am done. That is if they are 185 cc's now as advertised. I did not measure them. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 2:06pm
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Wow, I never realized the exhaust port was so much smaller than the headers. I would think there would be a lot to gain by opening this up. Are the iron heads like this too?? ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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Posted By: texasamx
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 2:54pm
| My son and I used the Edelbrock heads on our 401 build and so far we're pleased. |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 3:05pm
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The AMC dog leg can be made to flow astonishingly well. It is quite a bit larger than the Edelbrock in csa although both have quite a variation through the port length. If you port the iron head right (and it is simple but not necessarily intuitive) you can keep the flow attached to the SSR and get truly astonishing flow numbers. The phenomena is a fairly advanced aerodynamic trick that I'll bet the AMC engineers had no clue about 50 years ago. Blind luck is great. The Edelbrock cannot get even remotely close. For that matter an iron can outflow an Indy. When you get a bunch of various heads across the bench over the years you get to realize just how good the dog leg is flow wise. However, one thing to remember is flow bench conditions are unrelated to a running engine. In the blowdown phase the exhaust flow is sonic, and the temp is in the 1400 F range. Name a flowbench that can do that. Many (me included) consider a flowbench fairly useless for developing exhaust. I do not care what the flow is. I do care what the port size and shape is. So is the amazingly good dog leg exhaust port flow (with the right porting) a good thing? Does the fact that you can keep the flow attached to the SSR at flowbench conditions matter? I don't know. |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 5:09pm
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Iron heads are much closer but need some opening up to match. I am not matching the gasket on the bottom because there will not be enough sealing surface if I do. I will have some flow numbers on it tomorrow with a valve job and porting. The Edelbrock head has a taller short turn before it transitions to the floor and the shape is a little different inside. It seems like the went with a more simple shape. I was at a seminar when someone asked Ed Iskenderian what he thought about the exhaust. His reply was, "I don't think about it, it gets out". I feel the same way. NA heads are all about getting the air in the intake side and the exhaust will find a way out. This exhaust flow of these heads will support a plenty of power. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: steinercj5
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 5:43pm
| So here's my question... Take a running and driving mild performance build with untouched iron heads and replace with Edelbrock out of the box heads (for sake of argument, cc's are the same and compression remains the same). What kind of performance difference will be felt? Noticeable? Little? I understand the weight savings of alum and ability to build for higher CR with same octane fuel is also part of the reason to go with aluminum heads- just trying to compare apples to apples. |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/12/2017 at 6:26pm
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If the runner volumes were the same there would probalby not be much difference. That is one area where the Edelbrock heads shine. They have the runner volume of a well ported iron head and a bowl that cannot be matched with iron without hitting water. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 8:16am
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Interesting discussion. KingsX, I am very pleased with my setup and the Edelbrock heads work just fine. The largest problem that I have is getting traction. You will have none on the streets guaranteed regardless of which head you choose. So, unless you are trying to be as comptetive as possible the Eddy heads are a great bolt on that require little to no work. If you were near me I would take you for a spin and let you see for yourself. The thing is quite extreme and scares me everytime I stomp the long skinny pedal.
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Posted By: Class Guy
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 8:21am
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Ken Parkman: "So is the amazingly good dog leg exhaust port flow (with the right porting) a good thing? Does the fact that you can keep the flow attached to the SSR at flowbench conditions matter?" My experience says Yes and Yes. Of course, the related components in the engine package (headers, valves and camshaft events) come into play. ------------- Addicted to acceleration. Owner and Admin for www.classracerinfo.com |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 12:43pm
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Interesting that all out drag race high compression high speed stuff has gone for smaller and smaller exhaust valves and ports. Apparently that technology is considered too small for Nascar - exhaust system maybe? And newer factory stuff seems to have fairly small exhaust ports. But what is also interesting is I do not see more recent race designs that are closer to stock port locations using the perhaps inadvertent AMC Aerodynamic trick. I've never seen ANYTHING with a factory type port location touch what an AMC exhaust can flow, and I've had a lot of stuff across the bench. |
Posted By: jtsllc1
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 2:05pm
Kaplan designed the dogleg to widen the floor of the port.... I am sure if someone would have asked Kaplan the right questions when they interviewed him he might have mentioned this. Now if you look at the Trapezoid head the floor is also wider. Now look at the picture of the blue print and decide for your self. I.M.O. it is not just a notch that means nothing but understanding and using the dogleg properly will gain some HP. Flowing in the 200 CFM range is no problem with a 1.625 valve but what you need to ask yourself is what percentage are you shooting for between the exhaust and the intake. After this has been determined just call up Erson with your flow numbers and they will run it through their program giving you some cam options for your application... I ordered on Monday and the cam was to my door by Wednesday... As far as heads I see no reason to use any after market head for high flow numbers to .500 lift and as for the exhaust well the iron head is just perfect... For this reason the AMC has a good chance to run well with this years rules for the EMC. ------------- JTSLLC1 |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 4:05pm
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I will say that the upside for Kings application and selecting an aluminum head is going to be the additional heat dispersion inherrent in aluminum heads. Since he is running on the street and running boost, that is one thing that makes them worth buying. I also don't think the guy who spends 4-6k on a supoercharger is going to be too concerned with spending 2k on a set of aluminum heads especially if it means he has better detonation resistance which in a supercharged vehicle I will take every fractional bit of help I can to avoid. -------------
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Posted By: Boris Badanov
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 4:07pm
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I was told many many moons ago it was originally for the air injection. they were committed to production when the idea was abandoned. BS? maybe but it makes sense. ------------- Gremlin Dreams |
Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 5:58pm
There's an AMC racer guy that lives near me that recommended the Indy's. That was my main reason for the post. I'm glad I started it now. Great info goin on here. If only I understood all of it. I'm still waiting for my stroker kit to come from Tom Molnar. Should be here by the end of November..... I hope. I've got the 401, blower, and Bulltear serpentine brackets/pulleys for it already. Heads and fuel injection is next. Still need to find an engine builder that's good with AMC's and not crazy expensive. ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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shootist wrote:Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 6:50pm
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Iron, Edelbrock or Indy heads will all work well for you. There was an old article where a mild 401 boosted made over 700hp using hardly touched iron heads and something like 14 lbs boost. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/13/2017 at 6:53pm
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I can get 195-200 range out of a 1.625 valve but it takes a bit of grinding to do it. Maybe I do not understand the shape as well as others which is entirely possible. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 6:31am
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jcisworthy, the difference in flow between Edelbrock advertised and what you get could just be the difference in the flow benches used, though I'm sure Edelbrock will advertise the best numbers they can find (the ones they flowed could be cleaned up some...) About the sealing area... IMHO you may as well port out at least part of that lower area. The gasket is still going to seal on the smaller area, what you leave above the gasket won't help. Unless of course you're thinking about the possibility of going back to a stock manifold at some point. Then the extra sealing area might come in handy. You might want to compare a stock manifold gasket to the header gasket. If you've already considered this (and there's a good chance you have!) I apologize for pointing out the obvious... ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 9:03am
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If anything, I think it will help leaving the floor taller. The air will flow into the header without restriction and the lip should help in exhaust pulses from returning. I am up to 187 CFM with a pipe and have the short turn to work so that should easily go past the 190 advertised. Flow benches can be off but 25 CFM would indicate some short tum work at least before they posted their numbers. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: DaemonForce
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 9:21am
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When it comes to street and mild racing, Edelbrock is a better choice for weight reduction and higher flow with less work. It's essentially the bolt-on option but it's restricted to the fat bore engines only. The Indy heads are for hard race. Production value is good and those tall chambers are exciting but I have issue with the large valves and the amount of material to seal them. I fear no man. But those heads. They scare me. O_o ------------- 1971 Javelin SST American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31 1983 American Limited Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72 |
Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 9:24am
What are you planning for boost pressure, head gaskets and sealing? Perhaps he recommended Indy SRs because the casting allows them to be machined for extra head bolts, and can be ordered already machined, plus the larger exhaust port vs. Edelbrock may better suit a blower application? ... Just be aware that Indy is a small manufacturer with sometimes questionable quality, so check everything! |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 3:33pm
That article you are referencing was from Hot Rod. It is the build which I based mine off of. I went with Eddy heads, roller cam and just a tad more compression so I am gessing I would be making at least as much in the HP/TQ numbers but suspect it is likely a little more. I was inspired by the article you might say.  -------------
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Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 8:25pm
I was also inspired by the article and your build of course. That and I have a few guys at work running super chargers on their chevelles and mustangs with great success. I got my vortec V3 from one for them that upgraded to a kenne bell. I like it cause it works with my bulltear serpentine system. I know the Procharger pushes more air but I already had the serpentine and got the V3 for a steal. ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/14/2017 at 8:34pm
I probly wont go crazy with the boost. 10-12 lbs max. Will start out around 6-8lbs. This guy doesn't run a blower in any of his cars as far as I know but has a few pure drag cars that he uses Indys on. He has more cars than I can think of. Wish I had that problem. He's also made me aware of the inconsistent quality issues with Indy. And says not to have them do my machine work. Mostly because of what they charge for it. ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 4:35am
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Indy heads are a great product in my opinion. They need a lot of work to make them real good but they are cast with enough material so you can do whatever you want to them without breaking through. When a power adder is in the mix they would work fine out of the box. The beauty of porting them using a power adder is that they would make the same power with less boost if you are not wanting to turn the boost up. jtsllc1 wrote "As far as heads I see no reason to use any after market head for high flow numbers to .500 lift and as for the exhaust well the iron head is just perfect... " I have to agree with you there. After getting into these Edelbrock heads the factory iron head is hard o beat for flow to .500. The Indy head will take off at .400 over iron but the Edelbrock is not much better past .400 I never thought I wold say this but I prefer the iron over the Edelbrock in many ways. With iron, I have a fresh pallet to start with if you will. With Edelbrock I am improving on work someone else has done. Where I think the Edelbrock heads would shine for me is to install a larger valve, perhaps a 2.055, which would allow for all the angles of my valve job I developed to come in.
Although not completely finished, I did get the exhaust up to 200 with a pipe at .700 and it does not stall until .900. That was with the shape in the previous pictures and not matching below the as cast floor. Also, after getting into these heads, they are basically what you would get from porting iron except for the bowl being larger than you can make an iron head. On the Edelbrock bowl, they took the bias out which I think the factory iron is a better design with the bias. If Edelbrock took a ported iron head and copied it only making it bigger, they would be a better head in my opinion. Now if they offered a raised runner application that would be a different story all together. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: Boris Badanov
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 5:55am
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Weight is a factor. All things being equal you will save 50 lbs give or take. To the head porter and racer there is another big advantage to any aluminum head, you can easily weld up the whoopsies. Damage from blown up motors or sneezing while doing a sensitive area can be weld repaired. I had a set of heads DESTROYED by a drunken head porter when they were nearly finished. If they were aluminum they could have been fixed. Personally I chose the Indy head because of the potential of the raised intake and the longer short side radius. ------------- Gremlin Dreams |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 8:49am
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Glad to hear your parts gathering is coming along King. You will love it once you get it together. I have yet to run mine past 5k RPM because at that point the thing is just scaring the crap out of me. Based solely on the dyno for the hot rod build I am still about 110HP short of feeling what the car can make in power. It is so radical for the street in fact that I am considering changing the pulley to make quite a bit less power for driving off track. You just have to ride in it to understand. I tried some Nitto NT555 drag radials on the back and still can't get it to hook in 1st or 2nd gear. It is a blast to drive but leaves you shaking everytime. If you haven't ever driven a car making the level of power the motor you are putting together will be capable of making you are in for a experience. Just be careful, since I changed to the straightdrive I can break traction going into 3rd and 4th gear with ease.
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Posted By: DaemonForce
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 9:41am
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Weight being comparable to every Ford FE I've ever had to constantly tune and overall power production over powerplant weight being the primary factors, going to an aluminum Eddy or Indy head over the iron cast heads is a win to me no matter how many ways you slice it. Sure you can fix boogers on the aluminum heads but input/output things need to be taken into consideration for relative size. You don't want to overbuild the intake for power the engine can't handle after like 80% throttle or prone to severe rich/flooding. Likewise, you don't want that intake to be the reason the engine falls flat either. If I were building another large bore engine I would most likely pick the Indy heads for a 390-436 final size. The Eddy heads would probably serve better on a destroked variation between 357-375. One thing I've learned this year is that most of the problems I've encountered with big engines goes away when I eliminate components that have "too much" potential. ------------- 1971 Javelin SST American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31 1983 American Limited Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72 |
Posted By: kingsX
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 2:55pm
Shootist, I'm so excited to get this thing together. I haven't driven but have been passenger in a 700-800 HP street cars several times. I know its no where near the same experience as driving them but holy cow are they fast. My plan is to start off with the base pulley that came with the blower and see where that gets me. Probly going to do the Eddy heads straight out of the box, Fitech FI, and run E85. If that gets me over 600HP I'll be good. If not, we'll see. I also don't think I'll ever go over 5-5500 rpm's. Don't think I'll need to really. I currently run Nitto NT555(not drag radials) and honestly they don't hook up now. I've just been waiting for them to loose a little more tread before I toss them and get something new. Shouldn't take long after the motor swap. ------------- 73 AMX Javelin PC
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Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/15/2017 at 4:04pm
Got some Edelbrock flow numbers for a street engine I am building. Competition valve job with some porting. No chamber work yet other than a unshrouding cut. Chambers are good as cast so there probalby will not be much change when done but you never know.  ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/16/2017 at 5:55pm
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One disappointment I had with quality control on these Edelbrock heads was the free drop. For those who do not know, free drop is the distance the head of the valve is in relation to the deck. The intakes were .025" different from one head to the other and the exhausts were .010. I corrected them to no more than .002 from one head to the other when I did my valve job.
------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jtsllc1
Date Posted: Sep/16/2017 at 7:20pm
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The customer pays all that money to have Aluminum bolt on heads and then the final bill comes into play. Not to mention some of the heads need to be re decked and the guides are to tight so they need to opened up and then you have the false advertised flow numbers to contend with. So the question is what is the final price to get a bolt on aluminum head to the advertised spec. ? Does it end up being twice the price? ------------- JTSLLC1 |
Posted By: gremlinsteve
Date Posted: Sep/16/2017 at 7:53pm
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So here the question remains To go e Brock or go Indy sr There both close in price |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 5:05am
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Oh yeah, the guides were tight and they were not straight so I honed them straight to .0016-.0018 clearance. I told someone else, these heads are technically bolt on but they are not up to top quality out of the box. They will bolt on and run but that is not the quality I am interested in. If someone does not care so much about it they will work out of the box. Indy will also work out of the box but like Ken and others have said, they need work if you want top quality heads. Factor it all in and like jtsllc! alluded to, a set of ported cast iron heads does not look so bad after all. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 5:53am
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One more thing to think about. The amount of work it takes to get 200CFM on the exhaust is as much or more than what it takes on an iron head. I would recommend Indy heads if you want aluminum or a set of ported heads if not ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 5:55am
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Set of ported iron heads if not. ------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: jpnjim
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 12:17pm
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My only fear with iron heads is cracking them. It seems the 51cc's are more prone to that than the later heads, but worry about cracking a set of perfect, newly machined & ported heads would keep me up at night  ------------- 71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX some Jeeps and some Fords |
Posted By: jpnjim
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 12:32pm
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Also, Not sure if these prices are still good http://www.aeroheadracing.com/amc-heads/" rel="nofollow - http://www.aeroheadracing.com/amc-heads/ These heads are reconditioned and come assembled with a “like new” apperance and quality, with all new Aeromaxx parts installed and a milled deck surface. These heads have outstanding features that include premium one-piece, stainless steel, high flow valves, heat treated and machined steel retainers and valve locks, seals, bronze wall valve guides, 3 angle valve job, and heavy duty valve springs. All heads listed accept their respective stock equipment (i.e. intake manifolds, exhaust headers and manifolds, valve train, valve covers, and accessory bolt holes) Must state cam lift when ordering head assembilies.
Block Heads (Assembled)
------------- 71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX some Jeeps and some Fords |
Posted By: jcisworthy
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 1:11pm
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The only iron heads I have seen weep water out near the outer head bolt area are the 291 castings. I know others have mentioned other castings cracking. I heard bad things about the Aerohead's. Never had a set but I heard from someone who worked on them before and he said that the quality was terrible. If you have a leak in any head, I have had success with Caswell gas tank sealer. Like any sealer, epoxy, etc, the heads have to be spotless clean. I tape off all water holes except one and pour the better part of a quart in the water jacket, tape the hole shut, tilt the head in all directions for a few minutes, drain it, pour it in the other head and repeat. So far no issues. It leaves about a .060" layer, maybe more, in the entire water jacket. I know others who have used is with success also.
------------- Specializing in dyno services, engine building, and cylinder head porting rbjracing.com Phone Number 518-915-3203 |
Posted By: Boris Badanov
Date Posted: Sep/17/2017 at 7:39pm
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My 1970 390 head(s) cracked at the front exhaust bolt at the edge of the milled surface. There was a sharp corner in the intersection of the milled surfaces. I am reasonably sure that caused the crack. It did not leak badly, just a few drops here and there. So I let it leak... ------------- Gremlin Dreams |
Posted By: mmechlin
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 4:52pm
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567 h/p . Seems impressive, What engine do you have in your rambler? What else have you done to it. |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 7:29pm
| It's a 426, relatively trick build. Edelbrock heads with about 2.5 sq in min csa (lots of work), Torker enlarged to match, 1000 Pro-systems, 1 3/4 hookers, 10.2 compression, 232 HR with good valvetrain and beehives, and a few tricks in the shortblock. There was some effort to make the HR rpm, and the combo was matched for midrange. At 1.31 ft-lbs/in it was right up there on output, and the HR did hang on to 6500 rpm. It did make more power than I expected. As I said a bit of an experiment in max streetable output. If the Rambler was set up for race (slicks, auto with race converter, open pipes, electric water pump) it would be a low 10 combo, but it's a street car with a stick so the poor launch keeps it to only an 11 flat. |
Posted By: mmechlin
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 8:01pm
| Stroked 401? |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 8:08pm
|
Yep |
Posted By: mmechlin
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 8:17pm
| What's the stroke? |
Posted By: Ken_Parkman
Date Posted: Sep/26/2017 at 8:22pm
|
3.85", 6" rod with 2" journal. |
Posted By: mmechlin
Date Posted: Sep/27/2017 at 4:03pm
| I'm new to the group and trying to figure out how to use the sight correctly and also add pics. I have a 72 Javelin with a stroked 360 that Im trying to work the bugs out of. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Sep/28/2017 at 6:17am
|
Until you get about 20 posts you can't upload pics directly, have to use a third party site. Not Photobucket unless you have a premium account, which is a bit on the costly side. They found out a lot of people were using the free account for hosting third party pics and stopped that. I have to find another site to put my photos I want to share on. I wouldn't mind paying a modest fee for the little sharing I do, but not the $40 a month they want for a . If the $6 a month option allowed third party hosting, even if they limited the number of photos you could host to 20 or so and/or reduced the storage space (even 10-15 GB would do for a limited amount of photos) I'd give them some money. They throw so many ads at you now on the free account that it's rather annoying... more an effort to get you to pay than help the advertisers IMHO. You can do just about anything from the site except contact to comment -- can only contact support! See http://theamcforum.com/forum/guide-to-posting-photos_topic220.html" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/guide-to-posting-photos_topic220.html for general guidelines and instructions for posting pics. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: mmechlin
Date Posted: Sep/28/2017 at 7:55am
| Thanks for the info. Ill start posting more I guess. |
Posted By: Brad
Date Posted: Sep/28/2017 at 10:21am
| Good information, thanks all. Still my head is spinning on what heads to buy.... Varied opinions..... I have heard the same thing about all Eddy heads regardless of the engine make. You will need to check everything and likely retouch the seats. etc.... |