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Catalytic Converter Removal

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made I-6 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=88546
Printed Date: Apr/18/2024 at 1:51pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Catalytic Converter Removal
Posted By: Fahques
Subject: Catalytic Converter Removal
Date Posted: Jul/15/2017 at 10:40am
I have a 1982 Concord wagon, 258, V6, auto trans. The muffler recently cracked & needs to be replaced. The muffler is welded to the connecting pipes. Since I would have to cut the pipes to replace the muffler, I was thinking about replacing everything from the header pipe to the end and removing the CC and putting in a glass pack with as much straight pipe as possible.

This is my first AMC and what I'm not sure about is if by doing so I am going to mess up the way the car runs by messing with all the 'innovative' emissions stuff or vacuum lines or oxygen sensors or anything else.

I guess my question is, can I just remove the exhaust and beef it up with new pipes and a loud muffler ?





Replies:
Posted By: 73Gremlin401
Date Posted: Jul/15/2017 at 12:09pm
Originally posted by Fahques Fahques wrote:

I have a 1982 Concord wagon, 258, V6, auto trans. The muffler recently cracked & needs to be replaced. The muffler is welded to the connecting pipes. Since I would have to cut the pipes to replace the muffler, I was thinking about replacing everything from the header pipe to the end and removing the CC and putting in a glass pack with as much straight pipe as possible.

This is my first AMC and what I'm not sure about is if by doing so I am going to mess up the way the car runs by messing with all the 'innovative' emissions stuff or vacuum lines or oxygen sensors or anything else.

I guess my question is, can I just remove the exhaust and beef it up with new pipes and a loud muffler ?


IMHO, AMC 6cyls with the pulse-air system need the catalyst to operate properly.  Question is, does your car have pulse air.  It's easy to spot on the catalyst - there will be a roughly 5/8" diameter pipe running from it back up to the engine. If your engine is stock, and everything else emissions wise is in place and operating properly, I'd recommend replacing the catalyst when you do the rest of the exhaust system. 

If however, you don't have pulse-air, or do but a lot of the system is missing/butchered up, whatever, and you don't have emissions testing in your area, then by all means get rid of it, and finish cleaning up the remnants that may exist under the hood. 

Note that some of the stuff, EGR, PCV, and TAC are all good things, and if in proper condition with no vacuum leaks and good valves, really do make your stock 6 run a lot smoother, and I'd recommend leaving them in place, or repairing as needed.

In general, AMC did a better job with emission controls than the big 3 did on the 6 in the late 70s and 80s, with regard to general driveability.  Sometimes stock is better, and if your motor is as delivered from the factory, keeping the emissions stuff as close to OEM as possible is actually a good thing.

Again, just my opinion, I'm sure there will be plenty others!!


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73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto



Posted By: FSJunkie
Date Posted: Jul/15/2017 at 1:55pm
Originally posted by 73Gremlin401 73Gremlin401 wrote:


Note that some of the stuff, EGR, PCV, and TAC are all good things, and if in proper condition with no vacuum leaks and good valves, really do make your stock 6 run a lot smoother, and I'd recommend leaving them in place, or repairing as needed.

In general, AMC did a better job with emission controls than the big 3 did on the 6 in the late 70s and 80s, with regard to general driveability.  Sometimes stock is better, and if your motor is as delivered from the factory, keeping the emissions stuff as close to OEM as possible is actually a good thing.
You'll get a big "amen" from me on that. GM did a pretty good job, too. My 1977 Buick runs really good with all its stock stuff. Of course, AMC used a lot of Rochester (GM) emission control parts. 

You won't notice any performance increase by using a straight-through glasspack muffler instead of the stock type chambered (also called turbo) muffler. With the correct size pipe (2" is plenty) just about any muffler will flow more than you need. All you'll do with the glasspack is make your early 80s luxury car sound like a rice burner, but without the performance to show for all the noise. 

Converters also help make the car quieter, and if they are properly sized and in good condition they have essentially zero impact on performance. That being said, a clogged old converter will murder your performance, and old carbureted engines are dirty enough that they tend to clog up their converter pretty quickly.

2" exhaust pipe, Thrush or Walker turbo muffler, downturned tip. It makes for quiet exhaust, but you get a nice low rumble at idle. It sounds respectable. 


-------------
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited


Posted By: scott
Date Posted: Jul/15/2017 at 2:51pm
You'll need the catalytic convertor in place to get your Concord to pass the state inspection in Pennsylvania. Unless you have it registered as an antique car.  


Posted By: pacerman
Date Posted: Jul/15/2017 at 2:54pm
Those old pellet converters lose their pellets over time so if you tap on your converter it may sound hollow, meaning that it is empty.  If you are subject to a visual inspection (only) to pass the "emissions" test, I would leave it in place.  Joe

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Happiness is making something out of nothing.


Posted By: FSJunkie
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 1:06am
^ Yep. If I had a car with a pellet cat, I'd pull the drain plug and let all the pellets out, then sell them for platinum. 

People do the same with monolith cats, though there isn't much reason to. A good monolith cat doesn't restrict unless the engine is out of tune and plugs it up...which a lot are. 




-------------
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited


Posted By: tomslik
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 7:32am
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:


^ Yep. If I had a car with a pellet cat, I'd pull the drain plug and let all the pellets out, then sell them for platinum. 

People do the same with monolith cats, though there isn't much reason to. A good monolith cat doesn't restrict unless the engine is out of tune and plugs it up...which a lot are. 





and if it were me, i'd put a new monolithic cat on it and forget the muffler....legal and you won't get the muffler shop fined

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67 american 290/4speed


Posted By: amcfool1
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 12:07pm
hi, in 82 there was no "pulse air" system, that didn't come 'till 84. 82 should have an "air injection" cat, ie, still using an air injection (smog) pump. those tubes tend to rust out, and are no longer available, so, unless you fab your own, best to go with a NON injection cat. new cats are not very restrictive, (or that expensive) and will keep you legal. i HIGHLY recommend you keep a cat. converter. Unless you have a working air injection system, replace the cat. converter, without it's air injection, it can overheat (or not, but why take a chance) and roast your carpet and may even start a fire, the newer ones are much better, good luck, gz
ps, love to see that 258 V6!:)


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george z


Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 1:53pm
On certain cars, the EGR needs backpressure to open.  (some GM cars did)  AMC used Delco EGR valves, (althrough I have a AMC 360 with the Chrysler EGR valve)....   and usually if you keep everything working and hooked up correctly, it will run good.


Posted By: FSJunkie
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 2:20pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

On certain cars, the EGR needs backpressure to open.  (some GM cars did)  AMC used Delco EGR valves, (althrough I have a AMC 360 with the Chrysler EGR valve)....   and usually if you keep everything working and hooked up correctly, it will run good.
Yeah, he almost certainly has a positive backpressure EGR valve. Most AMC engines got them from 1976 onwards. The more backpressure it has, the more exhaust it recirculates, so less backpressure due to a higher flowing exhaust would simply mean less EGR. That's not necessarily a bad thing. 

I wouldn't worry about throwing off the EGR with an exhaust change. I have two engines with positive backpressure EGR: one is a 1977 AMC 232 I6 and another is a 1977 Buick 231 V6. I drove both of them with their stock exhaust systems (both 2" systems with converters) then I drove them again with improved, higher flow exhaust systems (2" or 2.25" with no cat) and noticed zero change in performance or how the EGR operated. I've even driven them with no EGR what so ever and they didn't ping or have any ill effects. Some engines will ping without their EGR unless the timing and fuel mixture are changed, but mine never have. 


-------------
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited


Posted By: Fahques
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 7:10pm
Thanks for all the advice. Seems like the general consensus is to leave everything as stock as possible. As far as I know, it's almost 100% stock, minus some wear & tear parts. Everything looks stock as far as I can tell. It has 'low' miles for an 82 at 73,326 & runs very decent considering the age. But, I do like the cracked muffler rumble. Oh well, I'm not in high school anymore & it's definitely not a muscle wagon.

I guess it's a smarter choice to leave it original & not start tinkering around with back pressure & possible overheating. One of the things I do love about the car is the fact that it NEVER runs hot. Even in the mid-high 90 degrees here in PA, it runs pretty cool.

I'll definitely get back with what happens after it's all taken care of & as far as pix goes, if I'm permitted to throw some up, I will.

Thanks again


Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Jul/16/2017 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

On certain cars, the EGR needs backpressure to open.  (some GM cars did)  AMC used Delco EGR valves, (althrough I have a AMC 360 with the Chrysler EGR valve)....   and usually if you keep everything working and hooked up correctly, it will run good.
Yeah, he almost certainly has a positive backpressure EGR valve. Most AMC engines got them from 1976 onwards. The more backpressure it has, the more exhaust it recirculates, so less backpressure due to a higher flowing exhaust would simply mean less EGR. That's not necessarily a bad thing. 

I wouldn't worry about throwing off the EGR with an exhaust change. I have two engines with positive backpressure EGR: one is a 1977 AMC 232 I6 and another is a 1977 Buick 231 V6. I drove both of them with their stock exhaust systems (both 2" systems with converters) then I drove them again with improved, higher flow exhaust systems (2" or 2.25" with no cat) and noticed zero change in performance or how the EGR operated. I've even driven them with no EGR what so ever and they didn't ping or have any ill effects. Some engines will ping without their EGR unless the timing and fuel mixture are changed, but mine never have. 
Ive noticed that the engines run smoother with the EGR working, and yeah Ive eliminated EGRs.......Fords were bad for pinging when the EGR wouldnt open or the passage was plugged up.........anymore I keep the EGR functional if I have all of the stuff that works with it.  my 1974 258 does not have EGR.  (some 1974s had EGR while others did not)


Posted By: FSJunkie
Date Posted: Jul/17/2017 at 12:19am
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Ive noticed that the engines run smoother with the EGR working...I keep the EGR functional if I have all of the stuff that works with it.
I agree and do the same. The only time EGR has given me problems is if the carburetor is on the edge of being too lean. They'll run ok without the EGR, but lean bog like heck when the EGR kicks in. 

I like EGR. The idea of a cooler running engine that uses less fuel sounds like a win to me. It's just variable displacement. Take a 300 cubic inch engine, fill it with 100 cubic inches of inert gas, and you only have to give it 200 cubic inches worth of fuel and air. Open the throttle more, the EGR stops, and now you're back to a 300 cubic inch engine. I think that is really cool.

Wait, you and I agreed on something. LOL Good on ya, mate.  


-------------
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited


Posted By: 73Gremlin401
Date Posted: Jul/17/2017 at 12:25am
Glad you've made a decision!   Regarding exhaust sound, when you replace the muffler, you can ask the muffler shop to install a 'turbo' muffler (generic term for a lower restriction/stock shape & size muffler)

You could also increase the exhaust tubing size from the stock 1 7/8 to 2" or 2 1/4", and the muffler shop won't have too hard of a time getting it over the axle.  Doing 1 or the other, or both will result in a slightly deeper exhaust note without being loud or raspy, and keep things looking stock.


-------------
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto




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