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DURAFIX aluminum welding rods

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Topic: DURAFIX aluminum welding rods
Posted By: 304-dude
Subject: DURAFIX aluminum welding rods
Date Posted: Apr/21/2017 at 6:18pm
I know this is a review section, but I am interested in using these rods. They claim it will work with a propane torch and thin aluminum. Would be great to touch up some door sill erosion at my edges, and help clean up some aluminum bracket and intake mods.

Anyone familiar working with the product?

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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker



Replies:
Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Apr/22/2017 at 9:11am
I've used it,  but it was on thick aluminum.  
I tried a torch with Mapp gas, but had a hard time getting the base aluminum hot enough,  it'd would radiate the heat away faster than I could heat it.
I used a acetylene torch with very low gas pressure, and had more luck.

They call it welding,  but I think it's actually brazing.  You're not getting the base metal hot enough to melt.

Do a lot of practice on something you don't mind destroying first.   I had a hard time at first,  but once I got the technique down it worked pretty good.
There's several videos on U-tube about it,  it can't hurt to watch them.


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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.


Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Apr/22/2017 at 9:24am
Great to hear... i was noticing their video, as it was with thin aluminum. So I may have to give it a try with folded over cut aluminum cans to see how well it will work when fixing edges to my door driver side sill. I have two map gas units, and medium 3/8" thick parts. So I may be able to work on as well.

I figure with a lower melt point, used intakes could be done well heated round the area. May keep the aluminum from igniting if petroleum contaminants are present around the machine work to be welded, or brazed.

It doesn't seem to expensive to give it whirl. Just need a bit more to add to the jobs to make it worth while, as my sill edge is not bad off, just a wee touch up so to speak.

A custom bracket could be made of cut square tubing, but if I can braze a few sections of aluminum on hand, then things would be more worth while, as I expect from using the product.

Thanks for the input! I was beginning to think I would be the first here to give it a try... Eventually.

-------------
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker


Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Apr/23/2017 at 5:24pm
I think the biggest thing to remember is that unlike metals touching each other causes accelerated corrosion.

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Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Apr/23/2017 at 6:43pm
Originally posted by shootist shootist wrote:

I think the biggest thing to remember is that unlike metals touching each other causes accelerated corrosion.


I may have to request more info about the product, as for its composition, then figure out if what ever corrosion or ionisation between the fix material and component is any worse than that with aluminum parts on steel and iron.

I have a feeling it may be a percentage of aluminum and some other low melt point metal to allow fusion to aluminum pieces.

One odd thing that popped up in my head when writing this reply... Mercury and gold to plate with. Yes I get an odd random thought time or two. And it's like having two conversations at once. And yet gold and mercury have nothing to do with aluminum. WTF!



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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker



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