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Doug's 70 AMX Build

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Topic: Doug's 70 AMX Build
Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Subject: Doug's 70 AMX Build
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 7:55pm
Thought I'd post some before pics of my AMX, and some pics along the journey.  First time I've undertook a project like this. Have raced most of my life, and wanted to find something to do that still kept my competitive juices flowing.  I remember seeing a 68 or 69 AMX at the Drag Races when I was a kid, early's 70's.  Fell in love with them, so when I decided to take on a resto or resto mod, that's the car I chose.  Love Firebirds, Camaros, Goats, Novas........but you see them everywhere.

This is an August 69 build, so an uber early 70 AMX.


Pics below are as I brought it home from Kenosha, of all places............





Replies:
Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 8:11pm
If I can figure out how to post pics ...........


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 8:12pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 8:35pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 8:41pm
Now I'll jump all the way to when I got the carpet out..............and found this.................. Confused

Somebody "tried" fixing it at one time Ouch




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 8:49pm
Grill, before and after




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 9:17pm
Rimblow before 


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 9:18pm
Rimblow Before


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 9:20pm
Rimblow after Dave Tays restored




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 9:21pm


Posted By: austinsamx74
Date Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 10:03pm
Keep up the good work. Grille turned out real nice


Posted By: green70AMX
Date Posted: Apr/07/2017 at 6:37pm
looking great. who did your grill and steering wheel repairs? Robert

-------------
green70AMX


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/07/2017 at 7:47pm
Originally posted by green70AMX green70AMX wrote:

looking great. who did your grill and steering wheel repairs? Robert

Dash was done by Julie at classic car plastics in Wisconsin.  She is great to work with and does a great job.

http://www.classiccarplastics.com/

Rimblow steering wheel was done by Dave Tays in Indiana who is also great to work with. Here is his site:

http://www.rimblowsteeringwheels.com/


Posted By: jav343
Date Posted: Apr/07/2017 at 8:03pm
Very cool. It looks like you have a pretty nice base to build from. I'm looking forward to following this thread.

-------------
2000 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L, 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L, 1968 AMC Javelin 5.6L 


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/09/2017 at 7:29pm
Interior is now naked, engine bay and firewall is now naked, car is loaded and heading to Reisinger Custom Rebuilders in Evansville tomorrow or Tuesday.  One thing i do NOT do, is body work!  Time for me to start working in the blast cabinet, cleaning parts, painting parts, etc. and continue to round up needed parts!




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Apr/30/2017 at 7:55pm
As I started sandblasting more parts today, I noticed I have two different style headlight buckets.  First one is a bucket I took off my 70 and blasted.  Second one is a bucket I bought off another member that was supposed to be for a 70, but as you can see the spring hooks up differently. Any ideas on which style is correct for a 70?

Doug


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 6:44pm
Anyone have a headlight bucket like is in the first picture?  I put a post in wanted section as well.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 6:51pm
Ok, car got soda blasted to see what we have to work with.  I don't know whether to laugh or cry but am leaning towards crying!




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 6:56pm


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 7:01pm
That looks fine, I wouldnt worry about it.

Your front fenders look like they have actually never been off the car as you can see what looks to be the original factory braze where they meet the rocker panel, the passenger side probably was all dented up and thats the reason for the filler, since there is no rust on the bottoms and the drivers side condition is good.

Filler on the hood is probably due to dents underneath, not rust. Rear quarters are also good, 95% of the original body style lines are going to be able to be left on the car just some sections of repro panels need to be welded on since there is probably sheet metal patches and brazing under that filler.

The higher up patches of filler on the sail panels are probably covering up pounded out dents and not rust, given how rust free the rest of the car is.   Thats going to be straight forward stuff for a good body shop.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by 348AMX 348AMX wrote:

That looks fine, I wouldnt worry about it.

Your front fenders look great,and it looks like they have actually never been off the car as you can see what looks to be the original factory braze where they meet the rocker panel, the passenger side probably was all dented up and thats the reason for the filler, since there is no rust on the bottoms and the drivers side condition is good.

Filler on the hood is probably due to dents underneath, not rust. Rear quarters are also good, 95% of the original body style lines are going to be able to be left on the car just some sections of repro panels need to be welded on since there is probably sheet metal patches and brazing under that filler.

The higher up patches of filler on the sail panels are probably covering up pounded out dents and not rust, given how rust free the rest of the car is.   Thats going to be straight forward stuff for a good body shop.

Thanks.  Your post makes me feel a little better!  Clap

I am still thinking it needs rear quarters and maybe a better right front fender?  There is some rust around the wheel wells on the rear quarters, just hard to see in the pics.


Posted By: Dan390
Date Posted: May/04/2017 at 10:25pm
MOST people don't see bodywork properly, or understand what really goes into proper repair and bodywork, and then once a car is stripped they are shocked at how much worse it is than they thought, so don't be hard on yourself, this is a very common thing unfortunately.

Yours is not bad at all, I am a bit of a perfectionist so I personally would probably replace the lower quarters or if you have recently hit the lottery and have amazing parts sources I'd replace the whole quarters...but you can make due with lower patch panels easy enough.

I'm assuming they were rusted out based on the amount of filler, even if they put a patch in there previously it might also be rusting now, that's common too with older bodywork.

The thing you should be happy with, is you are doing it right, stripped it down and now you really know what you have and can get it fixed properly, THAT'S what will make a long lasting, great car for you to enjoy!


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/05/2017 at 9:40am
Dan,

Appreciate the vote of confidence and your comments!

Doug


Posted By: 348AMX
Date Posted: May/05/2017 at 12:29pm
Also it looks like this is just the normal body work that would have been done on a repaint with some rust and dents, and the fact that the fenders are original(factory braze at rockers is still there) hood is original etc etc means that the car was probably never in an accident or hit hard. If it were doors hoods and fenders would have been replaced with NOS or non rusted or dented replacements and the filler would'nt be there most likely. All the major body lines are going to be original which is a big plus.


Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: May/05/2017 at 6:47pm
If you need one I have a passenger fender I'd donate.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/05/2017 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by bigbadgreen bigbadgreen wrote:

If you need one I have a passenger fender I'd donate.

Thanks Earl, just sent you a PM.


Posted By: 1970390amx
Date Posted: May/05/2017 at 10:45pm
Looks good to me. The fender is an easy fix. Most AMXs and javelins have rust in the rear quarters so I wold have expected some damage there. The only concern I would have is the filler in the right quarter in front of the wheel. How bad is the damage under it. My cars right quarter had been side swiped, so so fixed and then rusted  when I started on it

-------------
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: May/13/2017 at 7:59pm
Also found frame rot at front, where frame turns up into engine bay....................not sure how bad that is until we cut into it but as is the usual, the deeper we go, finding more work/money is needed!  


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jun/09/2017 at 7:35pm
Went down to Reisinger's this morning and took new quarter panels down.  They have most of the bondo out that was left after soda blasting.  Not sure what happened to the top of the right front fender..............


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jun/10/2017 at 8:20am


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jun/10/2017 at 8:24am
Trying to restore my grill brackets.  Some pitting on a few of them.  Wondering if a high fill primer, followed by light sanding and then painting will cover the pitting, or should I just open my wallet and buy repops for $150?????

Blasted them and painted the bottoms, but decided I need to stop and take a breath before painting the rest of them..............






Posted By: Dan390
Date Posted: Jun/11/2017 at 11:05pm
Hi-fill primer or even spot putty would be an easy fix, they aren't that deep so as long as they are clean a small amount of fill and sand would fix them right up on the cheap!


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jul/01/2017 at 4:42pm
Has anyone got good photos of their restored 70 parking lamp housings?  Here are mine, not sure where to go from here.  I don't think I can replicate the shiny silver surface inside, but thinking about light sanding and using a good chrome spray paint.  Any suggestions?

Same concern on the rear of the housing.  How did these look when new?




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 7:31am
Working on blasting, cleaning, painting some smalls.  Still need to polish and install the pedal inserts.


Posted By: 69BBB3904spAMX
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 11:24am
Here is a pic of un-restored 70 housings, the back side are dull chrome. In the pic of yours above, yours look like they have been sprayed in grey primer? 

 

-------------
37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored
69BBB3904spAMX
70 Camaro 1st car
74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto
2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers
Aluminum Deck Car Trailer


Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 12:03pm
Should be safe to use chrome spray paint as it's never as shiny as chrome.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 1:52pm
Mine are definitely dull grey like a primer, but they certainly don't look like they have been sprayed before. I think I will use the spray chrome on the exterior.  Wonder if that's what I should do on the inside as well...............


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 3:51pm
I thought there were 2 styles, chrome and cast. 

-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by amxdreamer amxdreamer wrote:

I thought there were 2 styles, chrome and cast. 

The exterior (rear) of my housings certainly don't look like they were ever chromed. I think I'll look at some of the cars in Kenosha to get a better idea.  Cast, dull gray, is what mine look like they always were, just want to be sure.


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Jul/09/2017 at 10:47pm
I believe there are different connections also (2 or 3 wire). Those grill brackets will look great with a little spot putty and some sanding.



-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jul/19/2017 at 7:24pm
Sending my bumpers off for rechrome at Knox Custom Chrome in Knoxville, TN tomorrow.  

http://www.knoxcustomchrome.com/

Also hope to pick up a few parts in Kenosha this weekend, and can't wait to see all of the AMX's and other AMC's all in one place!!!




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 8:11pm
Body work continues.  Also picked up a set of trendsetter covers and rails at Kenosha from madmax



Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 8:14pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 8:15pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 8:16pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/12/2017 at 8:19pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/13/2017 at 7:47pm
M12 has been rebuilt but need to make it look more original. Plate also is in bad shape, assume someone offers repop plates?  Not sure what the number stamped on this plate tells me.............




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/13/2017 at 7:50pm


Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: Aug/15/2017 at 4:41pm
Cool Doug. Moving right along....


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/16/2017 at 5:59am
Parking lights and lenses installed on grill




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Aug/19/2017 at 3:00pm
Left rear quarter replaced.




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Sep/02/2017 at 6:26am
Right rear quarter replaced.  Now to the floor pans and inner rockers.




Posted By: Bandana
Date Posted: Sep/02/2017 at 10:55am
I see a fellow named Dave Tayes redid your steering wheel? Who / where is he located?


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Sep/02/2017 at 11:21am
http://www.rimblowsteeringwheels.com/Home_Page.php

David Tays
WOODGRAINWHEELS.COM
2000 East County Road 500 South
Greensburg, IN. 47240
phone: 812-593-4328
 

He is located in Greensburg, Indiana, which is just southwest of Indy.  Great guy to work with.  Big into Mopar woodgrain steering wheel restorations, but does them all and has done many AMX/Javelin wheels.

Doug


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/17/2017 at 8:26pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/17/2017 at 8:28pm
One more coat of primer and final sanding and then the old turd should get color on it by the end of next week !!!


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/17/2017 at 8:30pm
Also, have the short block together, ready to install the 291C heads and R4B intake.  Engine coming along nicely.





Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/23/2017 at 5:13pm
Question............Is the water pump painted engine color or just as cast?

Same question for water outlet (thermostat housing)?

Doug


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/23/2017 at 5:15pm
Also just can't decide what to do regarding a carb.  I know the 4300 was OE, but have heard nothing but horror stories about them.  Car won't be 100% stock anyway, so leaning towards 650 DP Holley or Quick Fuel, or 700/750 electric choke vac secondaries.


Posted By: scott
Date Posted: Oct/23/2017 at 5:32pm
Water pump is painted engine color, Thermostat housing is bare aluminum.

I have 2 cars with 4300's on them, I love them both. The one on my 70 390 is the best running carb I have ever had. If you decide to get rid of yours, I'll be happy to take it off your hands. I like to have a few spares just in case.

Nice work on the quarter panels!


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/23/2017 at 5:56pm
Interesting on the 4300s. I actually don't have a carb yet that's why contemplating how to go. Have the stock steel intake and an R4B.


Posted By: scott
Date Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 3:36pm
If you don't have a 4300 carb I see no problem going with one of the aftermarket offerings, especially if the engine is not going to be stock. I don't have any opinions on an aftermarket carb, I haven't found a Holley or Edelbrock that agreed with me. If you did have a 4300, I would say it is well worth the price of a kit to rebuild it & see how you like it.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/28/2017 at 6:17pm
Thought I'd post a few more pics I took this week to show the progress............or lack of progress lol




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/28/2017 at 6:27pm
Short block together.  Just about time to make some decisions on intake and carb.  Think I like the R4B and would leave it aluminum cast color, but the Ram Air fit issue scares me.............

Still torn between 4300 Motorcraft as they came, or a Quick Fuel 670 vac sec/elec choke.........don't have either one but need to decide soon.

Leaning towards free flow exhaust manifolds, if I can find a good set.

Decisions decisions


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/28/2017 at 6:29pm


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Oct/28/2017 at 6:30pm
Sent my water pump off to waterpumpman.................hoping to get it back soon Thumbs Up


Posted By: amcglass
Date Posted: Oct/29/2017 at 8:34am
keep the updates coming

-------------
Javmanpres

BBG Mark Donohue 401

74 Jav/AMX
71 Matador 2dr sedan delivery wagon
1902 Rambler Runabout   
70 T/A Javelin


Posted By: Ram Air Rick
Date Posted: Oct/29/2017 at 6:59pm
Originally posted by DoughertyAMX DoughertyAMX wrote:

Short block together.  Just about time to make some decisions on intake and carb.  Think I like the R4B and would leave it aluminum cast color, but the Ram Air fit issue scares me.............

Still torn between 4300 Motorcraft as they came, or a Quick Fuel 670 vac sec/elec choke.........don't have either one but need to decide soon.
Leaning towards free flow exhaust manifolds, if I can find a good set.

Decisions decisions

I'm a believer in the Autolite 4300's. Many don't think they're good carbs, but my experience is different, and I've had good luck with them. My experience is with the stock intake manifolds though.

With your current intake selection, I think I'd consider an aftermarket carb..

I noticed new free flow exhaust manifolds for sale on ebay.

Good luck...

Rich C.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 4:52am
Does anyone have the height spec on the Autolite 4300, mounting surface to air horn (ac mounting) vs a Holley 4150 series?  You know where I'm going............the ram air concern using an R4B.  I have read and read and read differing opinions on whether an R4B will work with a 70 Ram Air Hood.  I am leaning towards taking a shot at using the R4B, no spacer, and a 670 Quick Fuel, then cut down the ram air seal.  Many say that works fine, others say they still hit............

Just hate to put that 53 pound intake slug on such a nice motor. I know the 532c intake is a nice flowing intake for a cast/stock intake, just heavy.  Heck, I'm not even sure my engine stand will hold the motor up if I install it!

An R4B still makes it 1970 correct even if using a non Autolite carb makes it non correct.

My other concern with using the R4B is the heat riser tube coming off the ac housing.  Assume most who use the R4B and Ram Air just remove it?  Not needed if you run electric choke anyway.

Pretty much decided NOT to use a 4300 carb, now just trying to decide on the intake to use.  The cast stock intake and go away with no worries about hood clearance, or make the R4B work.


Posted By: Ram Air Rick
Date Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 6:44am

"Does anyone have the height spec on the Autolite 4300, mounting surface to air horn....."

Don't forget, since it looks like you'll be using this dimension, to gauge the height differences, and how that would compare to the stock configuration for hood clearance, add the 4300 spacer height as well.

Rich C.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 7:48am
Yes, looking at total height difference including spacer, which is .540.

I know others have said the 532c is one inch shorter than the R4B, but I'm going to take a measurement on that myself just to be sure.  Like they say, measure twice cut once.  I'm assuming the 4300 and a 4150 Holley is the same height but would like to know for sure.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/19/2017 at 5:05pm

Trying to figure out the water pump bolts and studs and all the mounting brackets, what a nightmare!  So, does the long 3/8 special stud below go in the top or bottom water jacket hole on the pump (driver side).  Also, is this where the power steering adjustment bracket goes?

The small special stud, which hole does that go in and is that for an AC idler pulley bracket?

This is an AC car with Power Steering.............anyone who would happen to have pics of the brackets and mounting hardware would be appreciated Wink

As a side bar, I am searching for  the AC compressor mounting bracket and accompanying hardware, and the idler pulley and bracket.





Posted By: THE MENACE
Date Posted: Dec/19/2017 at 5:38pm
The long "special" stud in your picture goes in the top hole on the driver side and helps support the power steering pump. The aluminum bracket slides onto the short side of the stud than a nut goes on. Not sure where the other one goes.

Dennis

-------------
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 5:01pm
Color is on, but not buffed yet............


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 5:05pm
The shine after buffing Thumbs Up




Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 5:33pm
Very nice. Big bad orange?


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 5:53pm
Earl, you got it, Big Bad Orange.


Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 6:02pm
Lookin good....or Bad? either way very nice!


Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 6:46pm
Looking good!

-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/21/2017 at 7:12pm
Thanks Earl and Tony.  Has been a long process and still a long way to go!  At least when you finally see some color you feel like you're making progress.

Doug


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/26/2017 at 3:22pm
Restored Motorola Alternator received from Bill D.  Awesome work as usual!




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Dec/26/2017 at 8:10pm


Posted By: bigbadgreen
Date Posted: Dec/26/2017 at 8:24pm
Oooohhhh shiny!😍


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:24pm
Pretty happy with the quality of the bodywork and paint.  Dupont Chroma One Base coat (now owned by Axalta), with Dupont Chroma Premier clear.  Next is the C stripe.

Not real happy with the fit of the chrome ram air inserts.  Have some work to do there..........






Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:29pm
Badges are one of my favorite parts of the AMX




Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:30pm
Question...............I need to spatter paint the inside of the trunk.  What rattle can is the closest to original, or what have others used to replicate the correct trunk paint?  


Posted By: White70JavelinSST
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:56pm
I bought a rattle can of trunk spatter paint form APD quite a few years ago that was correct.
I'll have to dig around and see what the can says.


-------------
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:56pm
Before someone asks.........no these aren't the wheels that will be going on it Wink

I've got a ways to go before I worry about tires and wheels!

Also, trunk is not all the way closed, hence the huge gap.  I know there are many who don't care for the looks of the Group 19 Donahue spoiler on an AMX..............but I do !

Several other details I need to correct also but at least we're making progress!






Posted By: White70JavelinSST
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 5:17pm
The trunk spatter paint I got from APD is made by Plastikote. The part number is 502 Dark Green/Aqua

-------------
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by White70JavelinSST White70JavelinSST wrote:

The trunk spatter paint I got from APD is made by Plastikote. The part number is 502 Dark Green/Aqua

Thanks.  Have also been told Dupli Color DM102 is close.  Did you clear the Plastikote?  My understanding is all spatter paint in a rattle can is water based and needs to be cleared over?

Have also heard that Zolatone Onyx Black in a quart can, ready to spray is correct.  So many decisions, lol.


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 6:00pm
Worked on more smalls today.  Tedious.................

Got a rebuild kit for the brake proportioning valve, so need to rebuild/restore it, along with the blower resistor and firewall plate.  Looks like decent enough parts to work with.

Wish I had some of the skills many of you have.  I'm used to working on race cars, where it's all about performance and not necessarily the little visual details, but sure is fun.






Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Feb/15/2018 at 6:35pm
My car being a very early build 70, it came with the dual vacuum advance. I'm sure after 50 years it is shot, and don't believe they are available anywhere.  What are others doing in this case, just replacing it with the single line vacuum advance?


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Feb/15/2018 at 6:37pm
Also, as I have my car back and am ready to start assembling it back together, I'm debating on whether to use the original type repop under dash/firewall insulation, or just use Dynamat.  The carpet is going to cover it either way where it would be visible.  Thoughts?


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 8:23am
Boom mat installed.  Will cover with padded interior carpet.

Does anyone have a good pic of the rear kick panel (behind seats under  1/4 window trim).  Someone had just glued carpet to the sheet metal on mine, and I think there should be a cardboard/plastic panel covered in vinyl?






Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 11:54am
Legendary makes correct panels for the 1/4 trim cover.



-------------
Tony
Vancouver, BC
1970 AMX
1972 Badassador
AMO#10333


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 12:03pm
Originally posted by amxdreamer amxdreamer wrote:

Legendary makes correct panels for the 1/4 trim cover.


Thanks Tony, I will check that out!


Posted By: pit crew
Date Posted: Mar/19/2018 at 12:43pm
For a "race car" person you are doing a great job on the details. It is looking great. Thumbs Up

-------------

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Mar/25/2018 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

For a "race car" person you are doing a great job on the details. It is looking great. Thumbs Up

Thanks!  Now I have a few questions which show my lack of AMX knowledge:

1)  For the life of me, I can't figure out how this attaches to the hood pull latch.  My car did not have this on it but I ordered and am trying to figure it out how to mount?  Anyone have any pics?  

https://www.amarkamc.com/product.sc?productId=111&categoryId=-1

2)  The jute cowl padding, asssume it should be glued on with 3M Super 77 or something similar?  Anyone have pics of their cowl after attaching the repop jute padding?

3)  The firewall pad/insulation, with the four plastic push in clips.  Was it glued to firewall, or were the push in retainers meant to hold it on.  Carpet go on over these push in clips or does the carpet stop before these retainers (pad overlaps carpet which in that case, pad should go in after carpet)?  Also have to say, these sure don't line up very well with the cutouts and holes in my firewall.  Going to take some significant trimming.

Doug


Posted By: 1970390amx
Date Posted: Mar/25/2018 at 5:16pm
You hood latch has two rods one goes straight down from the latch to a pivot mounted on the hood latch support and one from the pivot straight out under the bumper-above the plate. The second rod goes through that bracket to support it.

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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box


Posted By: DoughertyAMX
Date Posted: Mar/25/2018 at 6:20pm
Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

You hood latch has two rods one goes straight down from the latch to a pivot mounted on the hood latch support and one from the pivot straight out under the bumper-above the plate. The second rod goes through that bracket to support it.

Ok, so the bracket I listed from Amark mounts under the front bumper.  That's what I thought but wanted to make sure I mounted it correctly.



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