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Ford 8.8 conversion

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Topic: Ford 8.8 conversion
Posted By: Floorman
Subject: Ford 8.8 conversion
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 7:09pm
I've searched the forum. I came up with a lot of posts that spoke about it, but I couldn't find one that listed all the details involved. I am considering putting it into a 73 javelin. If some one could send me a link that would be awesome. Another thought, if some one who has done the swap had the time to put a post in the technical section would be great! Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 7:28pm
73 Javelin has a wide axle... Explorer rears fit pre 71 cars better, though I would think rear wheel spacers would need to be done to place wheels out more. Don't like the idea of using wheel spacers on the rear, as customizing for brakes will need to be done.

IMO for the money used to make a Ford 8.8 fit a 71 to 74 Javelin, I would stick with the AMC20 and have the axles keyed and use a 69 to 71 Sure Grip unit. If you want disc brakes there are kits. May run a wee more in the long run over a disc explorer rear after everything is done.

Back in the 80s it was a cheap option to grab a 68 to 70 B body rear, ad they are a fairly quick drop in. Though they had big drums, which negated wanting to mod for discs.

-------------
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 7:48pm
I'm putting one in my Javelin as soon as I get the trans swap done which should be in a few weeks. I'm putting the trans together now. I picked up an 8.8 from a Explorer and I will tell you that it's 1.5" narrower from axle flange to axle flange. The rotors are a bit thicker than the drums so maybe 1.25".
 
Not a deal breaker to me if you run aftermarket wheels but if you want to stay with stock wheels, the spacers could be a turn off. To get a 3:73 limited slip, with disc brakes for $125 makes it a way better deal to me than swapping gears, changing axles and buying a L/S carrier. (which I would have to do) Depending upon what they bring near you, a "wee bit more" is nowhere close IMO since there's tons of them out there and they're pretty cheap. Just saying.... Wink


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: Floorman
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 8:14pm
1.5 narrower? Hum makes me wonder. I haven't had my hands on an 8.8 from an explorer yet. So now I wonder if you grabbed two of them and extend the short side to the same length if that is the answer. Personally I'm not good enough to cut and weld an axle tube. But, my buddy is. He has a jig for cutting the tubes. Perfect square cuts every time. Unless some one has an 8.8 handy that can put a tape on it, it'll have to wait till I go to the pick n pull.


Posted By: Floorman
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 8:20pm
Another thought. I'm going to measure the 20 in the javelin now, then see if there are any nine inches close enough to work. If it is any where's close to the Torino. I'll be furious. I scrapped two that I couldn't give away at $50 apiece.
A disc brake conversion on a nine is super cheap. It's a little work, and time going to the pull it yard but for about $150. It is worth it.


Posted By: amx2bfast
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 8:44pm
I am using an explorer 8.8 disc brake in my gremmy. Had to weld in new spring brackets. driveshaft runs a slight angle to right side but does not seem to hurt anything except being close to the muffler. fabbed new brake lines and used the 5.5 inch offset wheels off my jav. have not done anything with master cylinder or proportioning valve. still has manual brakes. 4 wheel disc - now it stops. the javelin is wider so you may need to extend short side which would put carrier centered. I thought I was going to have to shorten. cannot remember but I think short side was 1.5 inches different. so if you put extended short side of axle with long axle it would probably be ok with right backspace


-------------
1975 gremlin
1973 javelin
1976 pacer wagon


Posted By: tufcj
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by Floorman Floorman wrote:

1.5 narrower? Hum makes me wonder. I haven't had my hands on an 8.8 from an explorer yet. So now I wonder if you grabbed two of them and extend the short side to the same length if that is the answer. Personally I'm not good enough to cut and weld an axle tube. But, my buddy is. He has a jig for cutting the tubes. Perfect square cuts every time. Unless some one has an 8.8 handy that can put a tape on it, it'll have to wait till I go to the pick n pull.


That probably wouldn't work either. The axles are 2 7/8" different in length. Two long axles would make it almost 1.5" wider than your current rear.

Bob
tufcj

-------------
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford


Posted By: GreggR
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 10:06pm
Since spring perches would have to be moved from the ford location to the AMC location, could a Mustand rear be used?

Cut off the trailing arm mounts and weld on your leaf spring perch...?

Is the Mustang unit lighter than the truck unit...?


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No matter where you go, there you are... Buckaroo Banzai.'75 Hornet Hatchback


Posted By: 1970390amx
Date Posted: Jan/09/2017 at 10:22pm
I would like to see the whole cost to install a 8.8. I know you can buy a complete diff cheap but lots of applications require modifications. narrow an axle, buy an extra axle, weld new perches on. Have a new drive shaft made. It all adds up if you cant do it yourself. I can see the work if you dont have a model 20 to work with but to me the cost cant be that different.

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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box


Posted By: LakesideRamblin
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 12:08am
I did my 69 Rambler:

8.8 cost on Craigslist: $150
Cost to cut it down 2 7/8", weld it, put in new perches and axle and gears: $900
New u-bolts and u-bolt brackets: $125
I did the pulling of the old AMC 15 and installing the rebuilt 8.8. While I was at it I purchased and installed new leaf springs, shackles and shocks. So I am into it for between $1,500 - $1,700 with everything I listed above. If I were a good welder I could have saved $ but I wasn't going to take any chances with screwing up the rear so it was worth it to me.

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LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360
73 Javelin 360
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 6:41am
You have another choice for axles though -- the late model Ranger axle is 1.5" narrower than the Explorer axle. It's not hard to put Explorer disc brakes on the Ranger axle. See http://www.therangerstation.com" rel="nofollow - www.therangerstation.com , tech articles.


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Frank Swygert


Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 11:45am
Is an 8.8 Trac-Lok better than an AMC Twin-Grip?

Are Explorer 8.8 solid rotors better for fade resistance than a heavy-finned replacement drum?

For drums, higher CoF shoes for more braking torque and with a higher temperature range to improve fade resistance are available from Porterfield for about $100 a set. Match well to an equivalent front pad upgrade.

Anyone considered fitting Cherokee/Wrangler front rotors on the rear of an AMC20? Looking at specs, should pilot correctly and correct bolt pattern, so if you trimmed the drum backing plate or made a new axle retaining plate and added a caliper mounting bracket, e.g. a stock-car type GM caliper bracket, wouldn't take much to go to vented rotors on the back.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ben-prt1602fc/applications/?ibanner=SREPD2&retaillocation=int" rel="nofollow - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ben-prt1602fc/applications/?ibanner=SREPD2&retaillocation=int

Anyone know what an Explorer 8.8 weighs vs. an AMC20?

FWIW, my 74 Javelin AMC20 measured 61" flange-to-flange with the pinion offset 9/16" to the passenger's side. Perches are 43 1/2" on centre. It has the stock twin-grip and 3.15s. Wanting to change gears, so considering options ... not a fan of the C-clip retention on an 8.8.

Thanks,RD.


Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 11:58am
I'd say they weigh about the same. Track loc is weak and I have seen plenty with cracked cases. As with additional costs, an after market carrier would be looked into. When I got my F150 rear, it had 3.73 gears with a track loc. The ring gear had a broken tooth and carrier cracked. So, I would suggest opening the cover and checking it out.

My truck rear is 65" flange to flange and will be using Mustang GT wheels. I plan on cutting the the wheel opening lips on all corners, as I do not use trim.

Like I said, after all is said and done, a wee mods to strengthen an AMC20 will do well enough, and cost you about the same if not saving a few coin. Though pre early 72 Twin Grips are not two piece, so check your unit out for tolerances on the clutch pack. The one piece can wear out the case.

The main thing about AMC20, is to key the axle and strengthen the tubes near the center.

You should look around at costs for rebuilding your AMC20 to what you want, including strengthening, and compare the cost to redoing an Explorer rear to what your needs.

I chose to use Explorer 8.8 axles, once slightly modified outer flange diameter. As it was part of some DIY mod online for using 4x4 Explorer 12" front vented rotors on a rear end.

They slide over and are inboard. Just have to weld a bracket on the axle tube to mount a Ford or GM rear caliper.




-------------
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker


Posted By: ADAM12MATADOR
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 12:18pm
28 spine Trac-Loc  units are no longer available as they are now obsolete. Those were last used in 2004. The Explorer rears have the center sections offset 2" to the right. To do a correct swap you have to cut 2" from the left side tube and use a right side axle. 


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 4:24pm
So far I have $125 for the rear end, $30 in perches and $40 for U bolts = $195. I'm not swapping axles in the 8.8 because I don't really need to. I still need the drive shaft but I had to do it anyway with the o/d trans swap I'm doing now. There's no way I could buy a set of gears, bearings, seals, axles and a limited slip carrier to replace what's in there now. You can't buy a used AMC 20 with a decent gear and L/S for what I have in this - and I already have the disc brakes on mine. Oh and I can also do all the work too. This is one of those YMMV swaps for sure.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: 401harry
Date Posted: Jan/10/2017 at 4:33pm
The only good bolt in Ford 9 is the Granada/Versailles rear. They can still be had but are not easy to find. You can request the part through a recycler and they can locate one which worked for me in the past. I also found one on CL for 200 bucks with a good 3:50 carrier. Moser sells off the shelf axles for them and they have the big web housing. like you said disk brake upgrade is cheap but the Strange center with detroit locker pushed up the price considerably for me but its the last axle I need for the Spirit


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/11/2017 at 6:17am
Keying the axles on an AMC 20 is very old school and really doesn't help much, if any. For one you'd have to use hardened keys. The factory key is regular key material and is only there to assist in putting the hub back on the way it came off when removal is required (for bearings and/or seals). The strength is in the tight fit between the hub and tapered axle. Torque the nut every 10 years or so to 250 ft/lbs.  -- loosen then torque with the wheel off the ground. Under normal driving you can do this every 20 years or so, that's why AMC never specified an interval. Hard racing requires one piece axles, but people have run the two piece (kept properly torqued) with 500-600 hp, cheater slicks that fit the wheel wells (about 8"), and good hook-up in the lighter cars (Javelin, AMX, American, Hornet, etc.) with no issues. They usually re-torque the axles every couple seasons or so.

The rear brakes do no more than 30% of braking, in some cases less. Solid rotors are usually fine for the rear, and most manufacturers use solid rotors in the rear for cost and weight savings.  Vented certainly won't hurt, just cost and weigh more with little (if any) gain. Cherokee rotors will work as described. You lose the parking brake unless you use GM calipers with the parking brake built in. Remember to use the parking brake occasionally to keep those properly adjusted. You could also install a manual caliper in another location. The little go-cart calipers work fine for parking brakes, but don't expect much out of using it as an emergency brake.


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Frank Swygert


Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Jan/11/2017 at 8:06am
For the brakes, most cite the rear discs on the Explorer 8.8 as being an upgrade over drums. If the solid rotors don't have more thermal capacity than drums and don't dissipate heat quicker, not sure they are much of an upgrade ... other than not needing as much attention to ensure they are kept in adjustment.

Assume a junk-yard 8.8 should have the same attention to rebuilding as if rebuilding a stock high mileage rear? Main advantages seems to be availability (especially for something needing a narrow axle) ... possibly with gearing to suit an OD trans & with limited slip and eliminates the AMC20 2-piece shaft concerns ... if you are ok with the 8.8 C-clip retention and changing some other bits to fit.

Cost-wise, for me it's likely simpler just to do ring & pinion swap.

Thanks,RD


Posted By: 343sharpstick
Date Posted: Jan/11/2017 at 10:06am
I went through this entire thought process two years ago. The AMC 20 that was in the car had developed a nasty chatter, so rather then deal with how best to rebuild the posi unit, and as long as I was at it, upgrade brakes and axles.
I was certain I was going to do the 8.8 rear axle and get trac-loc and rear disc brakes etc.
Then I was having trouble getting a good core to use, so I looked at the new Dana 44 from Moser.
I did some number crunching, and at the end of the day I just conceded and went with a Moser 9-Inch, just like every car builder does.

It was more money than some other options but it was EASY. I love all things AMC, but having unique custom everything is a bit exhausting. Now at least the rear axle is a common high-perf part I don't need to worry about in any way.

Point is this, before you spend any cash, run the numbers on an aftermarket 9-inch if your are building a rear axle for a high performance application. The cost of a new housing, axles, and brakes is reasonable. The varying cost of center sections is where things can get expensive.


Posted By: Floorman
Date Posted: Jan/11/2017 at 7:58pm
Wow a lot to digest and consider. Thanks for the info. I appreciate everyone's time and input.


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/12/2017 at 6:40am
Disc brakes don't fade as much as drums because drums hold heat inside the drum, rotors are exposed to air except under the pads. Even solid discs will dissipate heat quicker than drums. The original disc brakes used for T/A racing were solid -- the Bendix four piston as used by AMC 65-70. Vented are better, than solid, but solid rotors are still better than drums as far as fade resistance. You CAN make drums perform, but takes some work. On a light car you can virtually eliminate fade, at least under all but the hardest driving conditions. See http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Drums/index.html%20" rel="nofollow - http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Drums/index.html

Lots of axle options. The Dana 44 is usually considered great up to around 500 hp. Want a stronger axle and don't plan on going much over 500 hp, or definitely under? Great choice, and doesn't weigh as much as a Ford 9". The 8.8" is a great choice IF it will fit your needs and you can get one cheap. Most pick-n-pull type yards have them now. Do some research and figure out what fits, add up costs of upgrades. Again, the late model Ranger axle is the right width for a Javelin, but will have drum brakes. You can lessen the impact of costs by running the drums for now, upgrade to rear discs later.


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Frank Swygert


Posted By: Floorman
Date Posted: Jan/13/2017 at 9:12pm
Well, after mulling around everything. Come to find out, my son in law still has one of nines I thought we scrapped. So if I'm going to shorten a rear, I may as well start with a free unit. He also discovered he has a trac loc to go with it. I've done the disc conversion once, so now it's a breeze. If anyone is interested I'll share the disc conversion. Like I said it'll cost $150- $250 depending on what parts a salvageable.


Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Jan/14/2017 at 9:26am
We did a 8.8 in my sons Concord wagon...$200 for an low mile Explorer rear with 3.73`s posi disc brakes and a 2nd short axle...I bought 1/4 thick spring perch`s on line for $30...Had u bolt`s made for $40...made the spring plates...and bought a combination u joint $25...drive shaft fit back in but with the engine and trans swap the shaft is 4 inches to long...will be cutting down a full size ford shaft due to the larger joints....Very hard to beat that combo for $300....Here are some of the biggest pro`s...4 wheel disc...no more flange wobble...strength..price...multiple gear ratio`s.....

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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/15/2017 at 9:20am
How was the width of the Explorer axle in the Concord? I thought the Explorer axle is about 1.5" wider than the Concord axle -- about the same width as the Eagle and Jeep XJ axles (Explorer same width as those). 

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Frank Swygert


Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Jan/15/2017 at 9:38am
I shortened the one tube..we measured the face to face (With the drums and rotors on) the Explorer rear was a total of 5/8 of an inch narrower...I call that an exact fit....I was told it would be an inch narrower...This is why i do my own measurements...

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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jan/15/2017 at 9:43am
Looking at the wanted ad thread for a twin grip is why I'm doing this swap. In most cases there's just no way you can compare the cost even if I can do it all myself.

-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Jan/17/2017 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by one bad rambler one bad rambler wrote:

I shortened the one tube..we measured the face to face (With the drums and rotors on) the Explorer rear was a total of 5/8 of an inch narrower...I call that an exact fit....I was told it would be an inch narrower...This is why i do my own measurements...

I have been telling people about this swap Anthony. This is what I want to do for my Concord 4dr. The 8.8 is a great axle and probably good for 325-350hp.... 


Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Jan/17/2017 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by 1982AMCConcord 1982AMCConcord wrote:

Originally posted by one bad rambler one bad rambler wrote:

I shortened the one tube..we measured the face to face (With the drums and rotors on) the Explorer rear was a total of 5/8 of an inch narrower...I call that an exact fit....I was told it would be an inch narrower...This is why i do my own measurements...

I have been telling people about this swap Anthony. This is what I want to do for my Concord 4dr. The 8.8 is a great axle and probably good for 325-350hp.... 
I think the Explorer 8.8 with the 31 spline axle`s would be good for another 100hp over that...especially a lower torque 360...

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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8


Posted By: Lyle
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 11:45am
I believe NASCAR uses 8.8's for most builds - 800 to 900 HP. Failure of these units is almost always human error. Solid spacers, 31 spline, new bearings, correct setup, welded tubes and good for street or strip. 


Posted By: 304-dude
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 11:53am
Originally posted by Lyle Lyle wrote:

I believe NASCAR uses 8.8's for most builds - 800 to 900 HP. Failure of these units is almost always human error. Solid spacers, 31 spline, new bearings, correct setup, welded tubes and good for street or strip. 


Nope not on cup and grand national series.

The rears are based on the 9 inch rear.

-------------
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker


Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by Lyle Lyle wrote:

I believe NASCAR uses 8.8's for most builds - 800 to 900 HP. Failure of these units is almost always human error. Solid spacers, 31 spline, new bearings, correct setup, welded tubes and good for street or strip. 
I meant in the stock form.....I know guys putting some ray big power to these rears

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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Feb/23/2017 at 6:54pm
Here's a picture (not a good one) of the 8.8 I'm installing right now in my Javelin. The pinion is offset to the right by 1".  It's less than what I thought it would so I'm happy. It's not cut down since it's about an inch and a half narrower that the AMC 20 that was in it. I should have this finished this weekend so I can get the driveshaft ordered next week.



The lazar line is inline with the crankshaft. You can sure tell how much bigger this is with it in the car now. 2.5" tubes vs 3.25" tubes do make a difference. Shocked


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" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: Buzzman72
Date Posted: Feb/24/2017 at 6:14am
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:


   
   <div ="msg">
   Here's a picture (not a good one) of the 8.8 I'm installing right now
in my Javelin. The pinion is offset to the right by 1".  It's less than
what I thought it would so I'm happy. It's not cut down since it's
about an inch and a half narrower that the AMC 20 that was in it. I
should have this finished this weekend so I can get the driveshaft
ordered next week.



The
lazar line is inline with the crankshaft. You can sure tell how much
bigger this is with it in the car now. 2.5" tubes vs 3.25" tubes do make
a difference. Shocked



Just for giggles...if you want to get about an inch of that 1-1/2" back, there's a C-clip eliminator kit that will both upgrade your axle and give you some track width back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr

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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.


Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Feb/24/2017 at 6:42am
Originally posted by one bad rambler one bad rambler wrote:

Originally posted by 1982AMCConcord 1982AMCConcord wrote:

Originally posted by one bad rambler one bad rambler wrote:

I shortened the one tube..we measured the face to face (With the drums and rotors on) the Explorer rear was a total of 5/8 of an inch narrower...I call that an exact fit....I was told it would be an inch narrower...This is why i do my own measurements...

I have been telling people about this swap Anthony. This is what I want to do for my Concord 4dr. The 8.8 is a great axle and probably good for 325-350hp.... 
I think the Explorer 8.8 with the 31 spline axle`s would be good for another 100hp over that...especially a lower torque 360...

Wow. I guess I was off. I knew that they can handle so good power and that it would be a good swap axle. This is something I have been reading up on a lot lately. I want to put one in a small car Concord.


Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Feb/24/2017 at 6:50am
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

 

Just for giggles...if you want to get about an inch of that 1-1/2" back, there's a C-clip eliminator kit that will both upgrade your axle and give you some track width back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr

Buzz... that's a cool kit. I have been reading a lot about the 8.8 swaps. I want to put one in a AMC small body Concord and from what I gathered... I am supposed to do a short side tube and axle swap to get the right length. If I used this kit for an axle going into an AMC small car... how would that affect the dimensions? Would this kit end up making it too wide for a Concord? Thanks. 






Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Feb/24/2017 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:


Just for giggles...if you want to get about an inch of that 1-1/2" back, there's a C-clip eliminator kit that will both upgrade your axle and give you some track width back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Explorer-8-8-Rear-Axle-Upgrade-Chromoly-Axle-Shaft-C-Clip-Eliminator-Kit-/131735899069?hash=item1eac124bbd:g:BwoAAOSwf-VWUMjc&vxp=mtr

HA! Nice kit but that negates the value of the upgrade. I have less in this whole thing, including having another leaf to the springs than what that costs. LOL


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: RamblinMan
Date Posted: Feb/27/2017 at 4:16pm
I also wonder if that will work with discs. Most c-clip eliminator kits for the 8.8 are only for drum brake rear ends.





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The Right Reverend of Blessed Acceleration


Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Mar/02/2017 at 12:29am

 summit offers a c clip elimintor for disc allso  like all say hands down the 8.8 for the cost is the best option parts can be found at any swap meet  or mustang forum real cheap and they can handle big power and tires



-------------
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: 1982AMCConcord
Date Posted: Apr/03/2017 at 12:22pm
Hey guys.. found an old article I thought some of you might want to read or possibly send to someone else who might be interested in the Ford 8.8 swap for our cars...

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ford-8-8-rear-end/



Posted By: Lyle
Date Posted: Apr/03/2017 at 12:54pm
I did my 8.8 swap but shortened a 2001 Explorer donor, 31 spline, discs, posi. I don't think you need the "c" clip eliminators on the disc brakes as I don't know were the axle would go - the disk, pads and bracket would keep the axle in place regardless.


Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Apr/04/2017 at 12:16am

NHRA rules make it you have to run the cclip eliminator on that type rear end if your not racing then you can get away with out it its all about keeping the axles in the rearend if it breaks



-------------
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: Lyle
Date Posted: Apr/04/2017 at 8:15am
The NHRA does require this and if you look at some night time photos you see the rotors glowing red. They have axles breaking at the outer wheel bearings and wheels flying off - extreme conditions that a c-clip eliminator is not going to do much except keep one more piece of metal attached to the car in the crash.
As a street car and occasional race I don't see the point, even racing I don't see the point with disc brakes, but rules are rules. 


Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Apr/04/2017 at 11:49am
Another issue with C-clips is pad knock back due to axle shaft movement from the clearance between the C-clip and groove in the shaft. May need to pump the brake after a hard turn. Keeping floating calipers will help.


Posted By: StreetFreaksInc
Date Posted: Dec/16/2018 at 5:54pm
I know this is an older thread, but I am considering building retrofit 8.8s for AMC applications. I have a Gremlin on hand to determine all the pertinent info for them, and Hornets, and any other models this rear may fit. I plan to offer them narrowed where needed, with new internals. Anyone with interest in this please PM me. I'd be willing to build them for other applications as well, as long as you can provide a donor axle to use for measurements, or your own measurements.


Posted By: sweet dreams
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 10:33am
In 1995 I installed a 1978 Lincoln Versaille 9" with 11' disc brakes into my '69 Javelin . SIMPLE SWAP with no mods. 28 spline axels with 4:10 gears behind a 390 @ torque flite . More than ecstatic with results.


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 12:28pm
Originally posted by sweet dreams sweet dreams wrote:

In 1995 I installed a 1978 Lincoln Versaille 9" with 11' disc brakes into my '69 Javelin . SIMPLE SWAP with no mods. 28 spline axels with 4:10 gears behind a 390 @ torque flite . More than ecstatic with results.


Those are pretty hard to find now. I had a 9" built to the same width for mine and it fits great. I have 31 spline axles with an Eaton Tru Track in it and 3:70 gears. I used Explorer brakes since I already had new one from the 8.8 I pulled out.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: Jmerican
Date Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 1:35pm
I don’t like the stock limited slip from ford. Yes, the 8.8 is cheap in a junkyard. Yes, tons of aftermarket carriers avail. To me, the stock LS diff is a piece of junk. The factory AMC Power lock style with ramps is a winner, hands down. And the AMC rear is meant to fit, looks right, and has good engineering. Put some better brakes and shafts in one, and its solid. People hassle these 8.8 into Jeeps too. I don’t get it. Some of the truck units have big tubes or stepped tubes, but so what. 


Posted By: LakesideRamblin
Date Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 1:44pm
Originally posted by Jmerican Jmerican wrote:

I don’t like the stock limited slip from ford. Yes, the 8.8 is cheap in a junkyard. Yes, tons of aftermarket carriers avail. To me, the stock LS diff is a piece of junk. The factory AMC Power lock style with ramps is a winner, hands down. And the AMC rear is meant to fit, looks right, and has good engineering. Put some better brakes and shafts in one, and its solid. People hassle these 8.8 into Jeeps too. I don’t get it. Some of the truck units have big tubes or stepped tubes, but so what. 

An AMC 20 is a good piece.  But it always depends on what you have or find for your small or big application.  An 8.8 done right is bullet proof and I abuse mine regularly without a hitch.  And the disc brakes are an added bonus.  To each his own.


-------------
LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360
73 Javelin 360
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt


Posted By: Jmerican
Date Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 3:25pm
No doubt the 8.8 has its place. I’m throwing out there that the stock trac loc is garbage. The c clip sloppy for cornering and braking, and just junk. I think the junk yard swaps are questionable. The brakes off of an Explorer... they are ok to decent. That stock limited slip is weak and the preload method is crap. Fooling to think it’s limited slip. Unless it’s brand new to about ten thousand miles old. 


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by Jmerican Jmerican wrote:

I don’t like the stock limited slip from ford. Yes, the 8.8 is cheap in a junkyard. Yes, tons of aftermarket carriers avail. To me, the stock LS diff is a piece of junk. The factory AMC Power lock style with ramps is a winner, hands down. And the AMC rear is meant to fit, looks right, and has good engineering. Put some better brakes and shafts in one, and its solid. People hassle these 8.8 into Jeeps too. I don’t get it. Some of the truck units have big tubes or stepped tubes, but so what. 

As this has been discussed before,  if you have an open, low geared AMC 20 and you're adding some decent power to the car, the cost of upgrading the 20 gets pretty high and it still has its limitations. The LS unit in the 100k mile 8.8 unit I had worked great. Laid down a perfect pair of black lines every time. LOL  Just because you don't like them doesn't mean they're junk.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: mixed up
Date Posted: Dec/30/2018 at 6:42am
agree any factory ls as its limits and as far as cost and availability hands down the 8.8 is the best candidate for a swap in these cars it used to be most ford 8 or 9 inch  every car out there had one and now the 8.8 is the  rear end  every ford rear wheel drive has one  

-------------
69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd
80 ford fairmont


Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Dec/30/2018 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

Originally posted by Jmerican Jmerican wrote:

I don’t like the stock limited slip from ford. Yes, the 8.8 is cheap in a junkyard. Yes, tons of aftermarket carriers avail. To me, the stock LS diff is a piece of junk. The factory AMC Power lock style with ramps is a winner, hands down. And the AMC rear is meant to fit, looks right, and has good engineering. Put some better brakes and shafts in one, and its solid. People hassle these 8.8 into Jeeps too. I don’t get it. Some of the truck units have big tubes or stepped tubes, but so what. 

As this has been discussed before,  if you have an open, low geared AMC 20 and you're adding some decent power to the car, the cost of upgrading the 20 gets pretty high and it still has its limitations. The LS unit in the 100k mile 8.8 unit I had worked great. Laid down a perfect pair of black lines every time. LOL  Just because you don't like them doesn't mean they're junk.
....Agreed...First off they make an updated preload spring...the axle`s are bigger...the tubes are much bigger...and the disc breaks help hold the tire on if you should break an axle....all the parts are cheaper and easier to get...you can do rotors and pads for as cheap as 30 buck`s total and you don`t have to deal with flakey venders (Not all are flakey) we are running a turbo car in the mid 7`s with a 8.8 yes with upgraded parts but has never failed

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68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8


Posted By: amxron
Date Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 12:02am
Back in 1973 I built a rear for my 70 AMX. Had Ken Keir weld the tubes in and brace the mounts. Used a
AMC 4.44 gear set and put one extra steel in the clutch pack ( a 390 left hand thread unit ).  Henrys axles rounded out the install. Have made many, many  6000rpm hole shots with 9'' slicks over the years with no problems. I see no reason to change rear housings to Ford or Mopar unless you are deep in the 10's.
 
There is really no reason to use rear discs unless you are running a high horsepower road race car. AMX's and other short wheelbase cars will swap ends in a second anyway. Ford used 11" discs and 9" drums on Fox Mustangs for the right braking balance and 10" rear drums on Fox wagons.
 
I also have a Fox body Mercury Zephyr that I added a Mustang 8.8 and T-Bird rear discs to. Had to put a proportioning valve on it to dial down the rear pressure so the rear didn't lock up first even with a 109" wheelbase.
 
AMC-20's have 29 spline axles which are slightly stronger than 28 spline Fords, both 8.8"& 9" rears. 31 spline Fords are stronger of coarse, but, with them you need a nodular center section, Daytona pinion support and a big bearing housing and brakes. Of coarse you will have to figure out an e-brake system and fluid lines too.
 
So maybe it's better to modify your AMC-20, it was for me, your choice.
 
Good luck,
 
Ron.
 
 


-------------
AMXron
Fleet/Jeep Mgr.
Orbit AMC/Jeep
50-1787


Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 9:46am
The AMC20 29 spline is actually a fair bit stronger than the Ford 28 spline.



Posted By: Trader
Date Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 10:06am
I don't believe anyone is arguing that an AMC 20 cannot be built better or be better then the Ford 8.8.
The problem for many is part availability and cost comparison.
Many parts of North America you cannot locally find an AMC 20 let alone one that fits your specific needs. Then you have the cost of upgrading it.
For my location, I can buy 4 Ford 8.8's complete with disk brakes for the cost of one piece AMC 20 axles.
Then both need work but the Ford 8.8, I can get parts locally at a fraction of the cost.

Example would be a friend just spun a hub last year. He looked at the cost of finding, buying and shipping in an AMC 20 for an axle or solid axles vs putting in a Ford 8.8. The Ford 8.8 with modification was far cheaper. 

And don't even go to find a Ford 9", MIA, unless your willing to sell your first born. 


Posted By: tufcj
Date Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 12:35pm
The Explorer 8.8 I put in my Rogue cost me $110 out the door with rotors and calipers (3.73, posi) at the local pull-n-save.  The extra short axle was $20.  It cost me $135 at a local shop to have the long side of the housing narrowed for 2 short axles and tanked.  I have a total of $265 invested.  The axles in the Explorer 8.8 are 31 spline.

Bob
tufcj


-------------
69 AMX
74 Javelin AMX
67 Rogue

If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford


Posted By: 70BBOAMX
Date Posted: Jan/09/2019 at 7:29pm
The Explorer 8.8 in my 1994 Jeep Wrangler was a breeze to swap in. Just weld on some spring perches and shock mounts. The width was very close to stock. The driveshaft didn't even need to be modified. The stock posi did not care for rock crawling with 33 inch tires though and I bought a slightly used Richmond Traction system ( no setup required) on ebay for $400. So for a total of $600 I have a 31 spline 3.73 locked 5 on 4.5 disc brake axle. It has performed flawlessly on the street and trail for over 15 years. Whats not to love?


Posted By: iwantmyx
Date Posted: Jan/21/2019 at 2:12pm
What year Ranger and what do you have to do to to bolt in to the javelin


Posted By: 232jav3sp
Date Posted: Jan/21/2019 at 6:15pm
I would have no issues going to an AMC20 in my 1969 Rambler IF I could find one for a small body car, that is!  I have an Explorer 8.8 that I got for free.  It's an older drum brake unit with 3.27:1 gears.  Worst part, it's an open diff.  Still, not going to have much in it.  I want to go to the local "you pull it" and grab the short axle and disc brakes out of a later Ford.


Posted By: Trader
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 7:01am
This site will give you lots of info on the Ford 8.8:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml" rel="nofollow - https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml
For your application, you need to determine if you need 28 or 31 spline and your axle width. Your torque/HP will determine the spline count and there are many posts on the fouum on axle widths for your vehicle and year.


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 7:02am
A 93-09 Ranger axle is 58.5" wheel mounting surface to WMS. That fits some of the big cars (coil springs though) and the 71-74 Javelin nicely. You will have to change the driveshaft (have one made) and change the spring perch locations. That's about 1.5" narrower than the stock Javelin axle, but a pair of 3/4" spacers would fix that. The Explorer axle is 60" wide and perfect for the 71-74 Javelin. The diff is offset to one side a bit, but that's not an issue. For the 68-70 models use the Explorer axle and shorten the long side tube to fit a short side axle. That narrows it to about the same length as the original axle.



-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 5:02pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

A 93-09 Ranger axle is 58.5" wheel mounting surface to WMS. That fits some of the big cars (coil springs though) and the 71-74 Javelin nicely. You will have to change the driveshaft (have one made) and change the spring perch locations. That's about 1.5" narrower than the stock Javelin axle, but a pair of 3/4" spacers would fix that. The Explorer axle is 60" wide and perfect for the 71-74 Javelin. The diff is offset to one side a bit, but that's not an issue. For the 68-70 models use the Explorer axle and shorten the long side tube to fit a short side axle. That narrows it to about the same length as the original axle.


I'll beg to differ on the bold part of your statement Frank from the experience I had last year doing the exact swap you're talking about. I posted it in Frankenrambler and I'll repost it here again so someone else doesn't make the same mistake I did in my 73.

I know from experience earlier this year that having an offset pinion angle can add vibration if not properly done. I put an 8.8 Explorer rear in my Javelin and since I needed the full width, I ended up with the pinion 2" offset. With the standard 2.5° down angle on the engine/trans and the pinion going up 2.5°, I had over a 3° U joint angle and it vibrated so bad it wasn't drive able above 60 mph. I managed to raise the trans a little so I was at 2.1° and matched the pinion to it and it only lowered the operating angle to 2.9°. It still vibrates but it's not bad until I get to 75 -80 mph is where it's the worse. That rear is coming out and getting a 9" with a centered pinion because I can't straighten out the engine/trans angle enough to lower the operating angle. Since you're building it now, you can avoid a situation like this by reading that book and watching your angles and offset. The best tool I found to measure the angle is called "Bubble level" a free app I got for my phone. It reads angle with one decimal point which is enough. This whole deal was a big, time consuming, learning experience for me as I thought I knew what I was doing having messed with U joint angles when I worked at dealerships. Ermm

I highly suggest doing some reading in this book from Spicer before you start welding to much.
http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/4ohobHpp8jBQnRpq4/j3311-1-dssp.pdf?token=eyJhdXRoVG9rZW4iOiIifQ%3D%3D&store=original" rel="nofollow - http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/4ohobHpp8jBQnRpq4/j3311-1-dssp.pdf?token=eyJhdXRoVG9rZW4iOiIifQ%3D%3D&store=original
They also have U joint angle calculator and a Torsional Analysis calculator on their website that will show you what the operating angles will be. The latter is really good when working with compound angles but be sure to read how they relate to the angles when entering your numbers in.  http://spicerparts.com/calculators/torsional-analysis-calculator" rel="nofollow - http://spicerparts.com/calculators/torsional-analysis-calculator

Basically the offset adds to your total joint angle. For example, if you use the torsional calculator with the following numbers which is close to what I have, on the first page I entered 3700 rpm for shaft speed.
Second page, 0 angle and 38" long.
Third page, 2° down for driving and 2° up for driven - that's the parallel angels to cancel U joint vibration.
Fourth page, this is where you enter the offset. I have 2".
Now go to the results page and now it's showing 3.62° for each joint and 4.91° torsional. You'll note what the maximum angles are shown in the red down at the bottom.
If you go back to the offset page and change the number to 0" and then go back to the results page, you'll now see the U joint angles are 2° and the torsional is 0 because the parallel angels on the U joins are the same. I also have read somewhere, maybe in that manual, that above 3° U joint angle, it will cause vibration which I have come to find out is true.

One other thing to note is the shaft speed does play heavy on this. With the 3.73 gear and 26" tall tires on my car, 3700 on my car is about 80 mph but if you have a lower gear ratio, your torsional numbers are going to be lower. Try going back to the first page and lower the shaft speed to 2600 rpm and see what you get. By changing the numbers around and see the effect they have, you can get a good idea of how it all works together and what you need to change before welding it all up. Its a great tool to avoid driveline vibration while you build your car.
Here's a link to all their calculators. http://spicerparts.com/calculators" rel="nofollow - http://spicerparts.com/calculators
If it helps just one person with their build/problem, it's worth posting then. Smile

The post is here with tomj and I discussing it. http://theamcforum.com/forum/1964-rambler-classic-street-strip-conversion_topic90597_post804254.html?KW=#804254" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/1964-rambler-classic-street-strip-conversion_topic90597_post804254.html?KW=#804254




-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 5:25pm
Yes, it does need to be set up right... I over simplified.


-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Jan/22/2019 at 6:19pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

A 93-09 Ranger axle is 58.5" wheel mounting surface to WMS. That fits some of the big cars (coil springs though) and the 71-74 Javelin nicely. You will have to change the driveshaft (have one made) and change the spring perch locations. That's about 1.5" narrower than the stock Javelin axle, but a pair of 3/4" spacers would fix that. The Explorer axle is 60" wide and perfect for the 71-74 Javelin. The diff is offset to one side a bit, but that's not an issue. For the 68-70 models use the Explorer axle and shorten the long side tube to fit a short side axle. That narrows it to about the same length as the original axle.
 
Also of note, the 71-74 Javelin has a Tread Width = 60".  The WMS to WMS width = 61" (+/- depending on drum thickness).  The wheel disc is offset from the rim centreline, so the tread width is narrower than axle mounting surface width.   The pinion is also not centred.  I measured my '74 and it was offset 9/16" to the passenger's side.
 
Maybe a later Mustang rear would be a closer fit for the Javelin?
 
My conclusions from this thread:
 
(1) If you have an AMC 20 in good condition and your car is a cruiser, keep it.   There is a pretty good selection of ring & pinion ratios, carriers, disc brake kits (if you really have to have discs), differential covers, etc. ... and it keeps one more factory part in your AMC (... if you like to keep your car mostly factory).
 
(2) If it's a mild street-strip build with sticky tires, get one piece axle shafts, reinforce the perches and see (1).  Dr.Diff's for an economical option, if you have the ability to cut them to suit.   Moser, Dutchman, etc. if not.  Weld on Ford 9" ends or retube completely for more serious use, and to get better bearing and brake kit options ... but if not an AMC purest, option (5) may be a better plan.
 
(3) If you are a scrounger and trust your local fab shop to rework it, or your own skills, go to the boneyard and find a good Ford 8.8" or two and go from there ... but it may also need some upgrades, depending on application ... but a bit lower cost than similar upgrades to the AMC 20.  Some mating parts need to change.
 
(4) If you "know a guy" who has an early Ford 9" or Mopar 8 3/4" for sale that's the right fit, it may be the closest to a "bolt-in-no-weld" option ... without spending a bunch of cash to choose option (5).  Expect some bolt-on parts may also need changing, e.g. driveshaft, u-bolts, shock mounts, etc.
 
(5) If your AMC 20 is junk, you've had no luck finding one in the "Wanted" section, your build will push the old AMC 20 beyond its limits, or you simply want something with unlimited options, custom order a 9" to your specifications (as mentioned earlier in the thread) ... or if fewer options are ok and you hate Fords, a Dana 60 ... or a Mopar 8 3/4 ... or a custom 12 bolt if you like Chevies ... or a custom 8.8 if you really want an 8.8.   Depending on options, typically range from $2500 up.  Lots of places building various custom rear axle combinations ...  Ford 9" is still most popular with best selection of gear ratios, carriers, etc. ... but can get expensive quick depending which options you select.
 
Hope this helps, RD.


Posted By: iwantmyx
Date Posted: Jan/23/2019 at 10:06am
Thanks for everyone's help. The 74 I bought has a 6 cyl rear end in it. It also has a 360 with mild cam and a 727 with a shift kit. I just put 295 50 15's on the back and am afraid I will blow the rear end. I really don't have the resources to do anything myself and have limited funds. At least I now know my options and will really have to put some thought into what to do. Thanks again!


Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 7:13am
With the wide tires I wouldn't be doing many burn-outs. I don't think you'll blow the rear end, it's tougher than you think and you have no weight in the rear. What you're more likely to do is spin a hub, usually the right side. So go out there and loosen the hub nuts, then tighten back down (with tire jacked off floor... preferably tire not on) to 250-300 ft/lbs. No point in going over 300, that just adds stress. Factory says 250, and that's enough. If the nuts have never been off it will take more than 300 ft/lbs to loosen, but stuck isn't the same as properly torqued.

Barring spinning a hub you will increase the wear on the internals. With normal driving, even with the wide tires, you won't hurt anything. But with those tires and the power you have, I bet you REALLY want to show off a bit...


-------------
Frank Swygert


Posted By: iwantmyx
Date Posted: Jan/25/2019 at 10:23am
Although I am in my 60s I still love the smell of tire smoke in the morning. Actually any time if the day. I will definitely check the torque on the hubs. Thanks again for your help!


Posted By: Dan1500
Date Posted: Aug/28/2019 at 4:00pm
Sorry to bring up an old thread but my question is related.  For those who have went to the 8.8 with disc brakes are there any issues with caliper clearance when using 14" rims?


Posted By: Trader
Date Posted: Aug/29/2019 at 1:17pm
The Explorer 8.8 have different calipers listed on Rock Auto then the Ranger 8.8.
I have only worked with the Explorer. I always center the pumpkin and with it's calipers you need 15" rims. With the drum brakes the 14" rim is fine (these bolt on so you can switch back an forth).
I use bolt on adapters to get the width on large cars. 
No knowledge of the Ranger.
 


Posted By: Dan1500
Date Posted: Aug/29/2019 at 8:35pm
Thanks Trader, I kind of figured that would be the case with the 14" rims.  I would like to keep my original aluminum rims so I guess I'll have to investigate the ranger brakes.


Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Aug/30/2019 at 8:51am
Look into a Mustang 8.8. That might work.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin


Posted By: Dan1500
Date Posted: Aug/30/2019 at 9:53am
The Mustang appears to be 60.75 which is a little wider than I have now.  Looking at it last night though it appears there is more room to go wider than there is to go narrower so that may be an option



Posted By: Dan1500
Date Posted: Aug/30/2019 at 9:58am
This is what I've been able to determine are options (all from the internet) unless other noted.

Hornet - 58.5"  (I measured 58 but it's hard to do in the car)

93-09 Ranger 58.5 Not centered
95-03 Explorer 59.81 but if you use two short side shafts and narrow one side it can be 56.75" and centered
86-93 Mustang 59.25 Centered but will have 4 bolt lug pattern
94-98 Mustang 60.75 Centered from Factory
99-04 Mustang 62.75 Centered from Factory



Posted By: Mopar_guy
Date Posted: Aug/30/2019 at 10:45am
Your list looks right from what I remember. Keep in mind what wheel offset you want/need before buying anything. If you're wanting a stock or off the shelf wheel, that rear end width will come into play. If you want a wheel that is made to your specs, than it won't matter as much other than what the "look" will be. I went with a narrower rear so I could have a lot of dish showing on my wheels that I had made to my specs.


-------------

" http://theamcforum.com/forum/hemilina_topic95889.html" rel="nofollow - Hemilina " My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin



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