What's your starting routine?
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC V8 Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made V8 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=81984
Printed Date: Apr/19/2024 at 10:00pm
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Topic: What's your starting routine?
Posted By: dogbone
Subject: What's your starting routine?
Date Posted: Aug/19/2016 at 8:25pm
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Pat your head, rub your tummy, tap your toe, turn the key and it starts! I guess I've forgotten how to start a carbureted engine having been spoiled with today's electronic engine controls. I had a 1970 Ford LTD back in the 80s and remember it had a specific routine that worked perfect every time. My 6cyl Porsche with out chokes on the carbs requires A LOT of pedal pumping to get it started when cold, and just a small press of the pedal when warm. So far I haven't been able to dial in the routine on my 327. It's got a Edelbrock with electric choke. So what's your routine, what works best on your machine? ------------- 64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam |
Replies:
Posted By: 53w
Date Posted: Aug/19/2016 at 8:48pm
| My 401 cold, touch gas to set choke/fast idle once. Turn key and it goes, let it wsrm up for 1-2 min and drive. Warm it likes throtle just open a small bit. Soon as it fires it will idle. It has electric choke. |
Posted By: tyrodtom
Date Posted: Aug/19/2016 at 9:35pm
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When my 360, Edelbrock intake with Edelbrock carb. is cold, I give it 2 stabs of the pedal, releasing slowly on the second push. It starts immediately. That's when I drive it ever day or so. If it's in the winter, below 20, and I haven't driven it in a week or so, i'll usually give it 3 or 4 pushes on the pedal, releasing the last one slow. Usually cranks right off again. When the engine is already warm, winter or summer, I do nothing but turn the key. ------------- 66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va. |
Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Aug/19/2016 at 9:39pm
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First off i push it out of the garage...so not to totally piss off my neighbors..then i will give both the secondary accelerators a small squirt(Or it fires on half the engine)then a very little push of the gas fire it up and take a deep breath of all the wasted race fuel....The AMX and the American 1/2 pedal pump back to idle and hit the key...the Concord always took 2 pumps but we will see with the new set up... -------------  68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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Posted By: FSJunkie
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 12:12am
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Cold engine: Press pedal to floor, lift off completely, turn the key. Let the engine run for a few seconds, tap the pedal to drop the idle speed, and then drive normally. Warm engine: Hold the pedal about halfway, turn the key, lift off pedal when engine is started. Give it a few light revs and hold the idle speed up slightly until the engine smooths out before you drive. Pretty simple. Never takes more than a few seconds on the starter. If they take more than that it's because something is wrong.
------------- 1955 Packard 1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
Posted By: DaemonForce
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 3:19am
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I still fight these V blocks. The Ford pickup is equipped with a 2v 390 FE. Just starts up after half a rotation but sputters if I don't feather the throttle. CONSTANTLY fighting the starter if I stop anywhere for more than 2 minutes as it's completely heat soaked. The Ambassador that I'm trying to buy is outfitted with a 4v 360. I try feathering the throttle to start it up but without any success. The other guy stomps the throttle to the floor and races the starter before disengaging it. This is definitely going to be the first thing I fix. The Eagle was outfitted with a L6 258 and Carter BBD that I would fight constantly. It would stumble and die after setting the choke. After pulling a non-feedback Carter and overhauling it, my routine was to jump in, key the starter for a 1/4 second and it would fire off without hesitation, STABLE. If it sat for longer than 3 days I would slightly crack the throttle open while engaging the starter. The rebuild: a 285 L6 is another mythical beast that I'm still trying to figure out. It seems to prefer 1 full rotation before it fires off. Probably in part with the 96+ Chrysler EFI system. I'm starting to think I may have taken a step backwards. The new 4.0 head definitely flows better but the Ford ignition system and carb were definitely easier to tune and seem far more reliable. I'm probably going to try some TBI update on the Ambassador at some point anyway. I miss that instant engagement. |
Posted By: bikerfox
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 6:57am
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I like to build up oil pressure before the engine fires, so I don't give the engine any gas as I crank and crank. About ten seconds later, we have liftoff! ------------- 1969 Rebel SST (1970-1987) 1968 AMX (2005-2011) 1969 SC/Rambler (2011-2019) 1970 Javelin (2019 to ?)"Jane" |
Posted By: ccowx
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 8:10am
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One or two quick pumps when cold and she fires right up. It likes to have me hold the idle up for about 30 seconds before driving but otherwise ok. When cold I give it a few pumps and then hold it half open. It usually takes about 3-5 seconds of cranking then fires. I have an electric choke on a Holley, blocked heat crossovers, no carb spacer. Probably would start better hot if it had some heat isolation for the carb. Thanks! Chris
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Posted By: BDCVG
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 8:25am
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390 c.i. Sum. 8601 cam 10:1 comp. Holley 3310 electric choke. Air-Gap manifold. Crank for 5 secs. then pedal to floor, release and it starts right up no matter what outside air temp is. I start it every 7-10 days during non driving weather. It slowly goes from 1200 rpm to 1500 then I give it a light tap on the throttle and it drops to 1100 rpm. It's ready to go and drops to idle speed at about 160 Deg. on the temp guage.
------------- 1970 AMX 390 5 spd full Control Freaks front and rear suspension 2014 E63 AMG-S wagon 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III |
Posted By: dogbone
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 8:29am
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These are good. I also love the sound of big old american starters when they turn the engine over. Very manly compared to the little wimpy sounding import starters. ------------- 64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam |
Posted By: Boris Badanov
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 8:48pm
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Fuel and ignition off. Roll down the hill in 4th gear till I see 60+ oil pressure. I lived on a big hill. Starters and bearings are expensive. Ignition on followed by fuel pump(s). Quick jab of the throttles, and it lights up. I always tried to park in such a way to use a hill for starting. ------------- Gremlin Dreams |
Posted By: one bad rambler
Date Posted: Aug/20/2016 at 9:07pm
------------- 68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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Boris Badanov wrote:Posted By: dogbone
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 7:47am
you da man! I've been wanting to try that with my flash o matic, it's supposed to work if the hill is tall enough. ------------- 64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 9:47am
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Before FiTech: If Cold and not started in a few days, turn on electric fuel pump, let pump run about 5 seconds to fill the fuel bowls, press to pedal to floor once
turn off fuel pump and crank to start Once she ignites turn on fuel pump and feather throttle until the cold plugs get a little heat and idle gets smooth. If hot, don't turn on pump, don't touch gas, crank start and then turn on fuel pump. If cold but recently started, turn on pump 5 seconds, turn off pump, crank and give it a little throttle. After FiTech: If Cold, turn key to on wait 3-4 seconds turn key and start. If hot, same thing. If it has been a couple days, same thing. ------------- 
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Posted By: Boris Badanov
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 1:54pm
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If all is in good working order I liked to turn the motor till I see the oil pressure gauge get a little movement then light it up. This is not always an option. But with that oil pump in front (and well above the oil level) on a late model AMC it is better to give it a pre oil before ignition. Some of the big round aircraft engines have pre-oilers for the same reason. It saves on expensive bearing failures. I good reliable light weight pre oiler would be nice for any Rambler V8. I know of none at this time. ------------- Gremlin Dreams |
Posted By: shootist
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 2:04pm
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If anyone is super concerned about pre-oiling you could just add an oil accumulator. It will collect oil under pressure while running and then prime the oil system before startup not to mention provide you extra oil capacity above and beyond a deep sump or stock pan. You can add one easily enough by putting it inline with an oil filter relocation kit. Less than $500 bucks and never worry about dry start again. -------------
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Posted By: Red Devil
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 2:06pm
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When I still had a daily driver Hornet with 304, Edelbrock carb and manual choke, only difference in cold starting between summer and -30 winter was an extra throttle pump or two in winter, keep choke on a bit more and foot on the gas until idle was stable. By the time snow and ice was cleaned off the car, ready to go. When warm, depends how long it was sitting. Short time usually just turn the key. Longer time needed a bit of throttle opening. Hope this helps,RD. |
Posted By: 6PakBee
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 2:06pm
With everything I have that has an Edelbrock, or a derivative (AFB, AVS, WCFB), it depends on two things, ambient temperature and how long it has been sitting since it ran. Everything I have has the stock mechanical pump so if the car has been sitting more than a week it's start cranking and pumping until it starts. This is true warm or cold. If it's only been sitting a couple days, one pump warm, two pumps cold and roll it over. ------------- Roger Gazur 1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
Posted By: 70RebelGeezer
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 3:03pm
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An old GM Master Mechanic told me that "if I let the car sit for more then a few days before driving it again, I should always give it a little drink of gas, in the carb. to avoid putting extra wear on the starting system". My cars might sit for a week or two without being driven. I've followed his advice and the cars start, first turn of the key, every time. Bit of a different story if the car's been converted to electric fuel pump but for mechanical fuel pump, priming the carb only takes a minute and means a lot less cranking of the system. Ron ------------- '68 Rebel SST Selling Bellcranks '67-69,'70-up big body cars 3rd gen. American with V-8 Bellcrank assemblies Gremlin and Hornet Z-bar now available Z-bar Bronze Bushing Rebel Gas Tank Straps |
Posted By: dogbone
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 7:26pm
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After reading all these, I just cranked mine up after sitting for about a week. I did two pumps to the floor and it fired right off. Ran for about half a minute then blipped the pedal and the idle dropped down. After about 15 miles around the block I shut it off. Restarted and I don't think I hardly even touched the key! ------------- 64 Cross Country Wagon 770, 79 VW Scirocco, 70 Porsche 914-6, 82 Subaru Brat, 1991 Autozam |
Posted By: SC/3.00
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 8:56pm
The "cold engine" routine described above is how I start most street driven carburated vehicles. If you're having to do something outside of that, IMO, something needs adjustment or you need a fuel filter with an anti-siphon check valve. Only caveat is when a vehicle has been sitting long enough for the fuel in the float bowl to evaporate. Once you determine the timeframe for your float bowl to empty via evaporation, then a few seconds of cranking should fill the bowl again assuming an appropriate anti-siphon device is in place. After that, following standard starting procedure should work. I personally don't care for electric chokes. They're not well suited for vehicles that aren't given time for a full heat cycle between starts. Obviously they're functional and capable, but definitely have awkward periods when making multiple stops on errand runs etc. My personal non-efi vehicles usually get an additional switch/relay added to the ignition circuit hidden away, partially for security, and also so it can build oil pressure before powering the coil and starting. |
Posted By: BBO SPIRIT
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 9:05pm
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My 65' American always fired right off no matter how cold or hot it was when it had the 232 in it with the Carter 2bbl. You would barely turn the key and off it went. Running Edelbrocks on my 81'Spirit,74' F100, and now on my American. Electric chokes. Once I got them set up just tap pedel when cold to set and they fire right up. I just turn the key when they are warm same thing. It did get a little frustrating getting them to the right setting though... |
Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Aug/21/2016 at 9:14pm
| I only have the one AMC that runs. it sits alot. so usually the gas has evaporated. so I set the choke, (A YF, automatic choke) while cranking, I pump it so it gets gas while cranking, once it starts I just let it run on the fast ldle. Then I go in reverse, and go. (1974 Gremlin) |
Posted By: White70JavelinSST
Date Posted: Aug/22/2016 at 12:35pm
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Cold Put T5 in neutral, engage starter, let the engine turn over for 3 to 5 seconds, tap throttle pedal lightly, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of total travel. Engine catches immediately and goes to fast idle. After a few more seconds tap throttle again to release fast idle. I hate fast idles because the choke is on nearly full and the cylinder walls are getting washed with extra gas and the engine is revving to 1600 rpm. Warm, I merely put it in neutral and turn the key. Starts everytime Warm ------------- 70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972 |