How to long term store iron parts?
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Topic: How to long term store iron parts?
Posted By: bbrooks2
Subject: How to long term store iron parts?
Date Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 9:21pm
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Just traded for a Wagoneer with a lot of extra parts. I have 1 head that has been machined and looks great but I don't need it now. I live in NW Al. so we have year round humidity. What can I coat metal parts with for long term storage. ------------- 64 CJ3B 66 Classic 770 77 Wagoneer 401/400 88 J20 It's not how many words you use it's how you use your words. |
Replies:
Posted By: Lucas660
Date Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 10:39pm
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I have had really good results with Lanolin spray. That being said, I have done a quick search and it seems to be very much an Australian/New Zealand thing. If you can find some you will never use WD40 or CRC again! edit: Found this, it looks the same, I have only used Lanotec but I would assume this stuff would work as well. http://www.fluid-film.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.fluid-film.com/ |
Posted By: Photon440
Date Posted: Aug/23/2015 at 11:33pm
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I use that fluid-film all the time here in Canada. It's great for spraying into crevasses and the like too, letting it creep and coat everything.
------------- Faster is Better |
Posted By: AMXFSTBK390
Date Posted: Aug/24/2015 at 12:12am
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The US Army uses cosmoline to prevent rust even in salty conditions. Entire tanks were coated with it when shipped over seas. Have you ever heard the song" cosmoline.....keeps my rifle clean". Hate to be the one who has to clean the oily/waxy film off. Cosmoline is widely used in Cuba to preserve cars and parts. ------------- Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox? |
Posted By: 401MATCOUPE
Date Posted: Aug/24/2015 at 6:41am
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WD-40 just doesn't last, I use CRC 5-56 on the machinery in my shop, but for real long life protection....I prefer Boesheild T-9, this is the best aviation has to offer....we use for long term fuselage internal protection. http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3.aspx ------------- Ross K. Peterson 68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
Posted By: FuzzFace2
Date Posted: Aug/24/2015 at 10:47am
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Not knowing how large the parts are put them in a plastic bag and throw in a few of the moister absorbent bags in there and seal it up. That is after you spray it down for extra protection. BTW they make bags for cars too! Dave ---- ------------- TSM = Technical Service Manual 75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
Posted By: bbrooks2
Date Posted: Aug/24/2015 at 5:04pm
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I have a mil. surp. container of cosmoline but I never though of using it on car parts. I will check out the other products also.
Thanks Brad ------------- 64 CJ3B 66 Classic 770 77 Wagoneer 401/400 88 J20 It's not how many words you use it's how you use your words. |
Posted By: Green AMX
Date Posted: Aug/24/2015 at 8:46pm
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Chainsaw bar and chain oil and wrap in plastic ------------- 69 AMX 390 4speed go pack 72 Javelin 360 auto(sons) 82 Spirit (wife's 1st car)still not done |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Aug/25/2015 at 7:43am
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Eastwood has a product that works very well. Talk humidity - come to Iowa. Cars can rust in a garage unless it's air conditioned and climate controlled. I use Eastwoods metal prep - it was used on the roof of my car - I stripped the car to bare metal over most of the body. Winter came, things happened, I knew it was going to be a while before I got back to it so I covered it with their fast etch which leaves a protective zinc phosphate coating. I used metal wash on some areas, too. It says it's for limited time use but it kept that car's bare steel rust-free for several months. When I got back to it I simply picked up where I left off. No rust problems. Otherwise check the farm equipment stores - we used to have to treat our plow lays after each use or that highly polished perfectly clean bare steel would flash rust - and be very rusty by the next time you needed it, making it work badly until you got it polished up again. I treated an antique 2 14 plow right after last use and it held up for 2 or 3 years that way. I agree WD40 is fine - for short term use. I use it on saws and other wood-working tools I know I'll be using again in a few days or weeks, but not for anything over a period of months. It just doesn't seem to hold up. Cosmoline and things like it - ugh, what a mess..... I've had to remove that from new flywheels, etc. Messy, took a lot of acetone - but hey, it works. -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: RonFrancis
Date Posted: Jan/16/2017 at 10:14am
What is best for brake drums inside? It should be something that cleans off easily?
------------- Ron Francis 
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Posted By: 6PakBee
Date Posted: Jan/16/2017 at 10:20am
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I clean up surfaces and then paint them. A little stripper later and you are good to go. I've been doing this for years with cylinder bores and crankshaft journals with good success.
------------- Roger Gazur 1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
Posted By: Photon440
Date Posted: Jan/17/2017 at 11:08pm
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A few thick layers of Plasti Dip will keep things covered, and peel off later.
------------- Faster is Better |
Posted By: RonFrancis
Date Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 7:05am
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Do you have a name or link?
------------- Ron Francis
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Posted By: 401harry
Date Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 1:57pm
| I like the CRC stuff too. Current favorite is the 656 which is the marine version of 556 which is actually called powerlube now. The 656 seems to cling a bit more and is thicker. I have also used the CRC Marine fogging oil and replace the adapter hose with a regular spray head. Really oily stuff |
Posted By: bbgjc
Date Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 2:02pm
| I like Seafoam green. I have freshly machined parts from 2007 that I coated, sealed and shipped overseas and then back again. Still look great today. Scrub it down with acetone and build. |
Posted By: 401MATCOUPE
Date Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 2:47pm
I use the 6-56 aka Power Lube on Machinery in my Machine Shop that I don't use alot to keep everything from rusting, nice coating on fresh cast iron surfaces that lasts too. If I am going really long term, I have a bunch of Aeroshell 5 I coat things by hand....but the only reason I use it....it was free and I got like 3 cases of it, turned obsolete for newer model aircraft. ------------- Ross K. Peterson 68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
401harry wrote:Posted By: 401harry
Date Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 3:59pm
| Just realized i was on my last can of 6-56..3 more on the way from Amazon at 8 bucks a can no tax free shipping....life is good |
Posted By: amcenthusiast
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 8:01am
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IMO this question of how to store your parts is rather important so thanks for all inputs. From what I've read and learned, corrosion begins to form instantaneously on most metal surfaces with exposure to oxygen.. eg: 'iron oxide' and 'aluminum oxide' I like to treat bare iron surfaces with a phosphoric acid treatment like 'Oshpo' -brushed on sparingly (it will stain paint), let it 'work' for about three minutes, then rub it all off with a rag. This'll leave a more gray color with slightly shiny appearance. Then I like to wrap the part in several sheets of newspaper, then put it into a plastic bag, but making sure the bag is not fully sealed to let the part 'breathe' (otherwise I think the plastic bag will 'sweat' with ambient temp changes... sometimes I'll poke a few holes in the plastic bag to reduce chances of sweating) I think the newspaper insulates the part from potential moisture condensation inside the plastic bag and absorbs moisture away from the object if there is... makes like a 'barrier paper'... which is a technique picture framers use to protect a fine work of art inside a semi-sealed picture frame's airspace (sometimes done in 'museum framing') The 'cheapie' nylon bristle brushes work best to apply phosphoric acid type 'rust killers' (more expensive 'hair' type brushes get ruined quickly by the harsh chemicals) To clean the brush I just rinse them in a bucket of water and use compressed air to dry the bristles... This seems to work well for me, and when they are stored this way in a dry place, they seem preserved/not 'rusting away', the next time I open the bag to see the part... ...and I don't have to re-clean any oily coating if want to use the part... -I'm still cautious and curious to know more about what the phosphoric acid 'rust killer' does to a bare metal surface through microscopic inspection, so I don't really mean to give advice, but just to say what I do, and describe the results I'm getting...
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Posted By: 401harry
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 1:24pm
| I would never use OSPHO on a stored machined part. OSPHO is primarily Phos acid acid and will remove or convert rust to inert iron phosphate through chemical reaction but will also etch clean metal which is good for paint adhesion but destructive to machined surfaces. When doing paint and body if I have to leave a section of bare metal I would rub it down with OSPHO to prevent flash rusting overnight but never for long term even indoors. |
Posted By: RonFrancis
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 2:05pm
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My main concern is brake drums and I have a spare rebuilt (not for sale) 196 OHV and at this point I have filled the engine with a lot of oil. The cylinders could have a little oil in them but I want to be able to turn the crank a few turns every few months to keep it shinny in there. it's had a full rebuild and then the guys car burned up. It will be my back up in case something major happens to the one in my car. ------------- Ron Francis
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Posted By: White70JavelinSST
Date Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 4:21pm
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If the drums are on the car, about the only thing you can do is store it inside in a dry environment. If you take the drums off the car, put them in a big plastic bag and suck the air (and moisture) out of the bag, then seal it tight. Sort of like those food sealer things. Store inside. I've stored a pair of hot tanked, crack checked and cleaned but no machine work done 291 heads and several other tidbits using this method for at least seven years, no rust at all so far. I've also coated cranks with heavy grease, then bagged them. I sandblasted and cleaned valve covers and oil pans, then used PHIX (phosphoric acid solution) to coat them against surface rust, then bagged them. Seven years later they still are OK. ------------- 70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972 |