69 AMX coil spring dilemma
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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Suspension, Steering, Brakes & Wheels
Forum Description: What makes it stop, turn, and smooths the ride
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46954
Printed Date: Apr/16/2024 at 3:32am
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Topic: 69 AMX coil spring dilemma
Posted By: jackdk
Subject: 69 AMX coil spring dilemma
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 10:58am
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I have a 69 AMX with the Go-Pack and I am assuming the HD suspension. After putting on my 15' skinnies on the front, the car sits a little to high in the front for me. I want to get it down and inch or two. I have purchased American springs from two forum members.
Here's what I got in the car now. If they are heavy duty!
---------10 coils, with car sitting on the ground, 1/2" between each coil.
Here's what I got to replace.
#1. set out of a 1969 American,
---------both stand 19" off floor, no part numbers, and have 11 coils. (1 more coil than my HD's)
#2. other set 196? American are both different heights, with part numbers.
---------one 18-1/2" off floor #RS-3172895, with 10 coils
---------one 19-1/2" off floor #3169815*RE, with 10 coils
My dilemma is! If I use #1, the 11 coil springs, and they are lighter duty, the coils may be to closer together and bottom out.
If I use #2, the are both different heights, and supposedly came out the same car, will my AMX sit crooked?
Does anyone have access to part number look-up to check on the part numbers. I didn't realize that AMC put part numbers on springs.
What do you guys think on this matter?
Thanks for any help. ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Replies:
Posted By: bcsideshow
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 10:59am
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Have you thought about using lowering plates on the front? ------------- 1969 SCRambler "B" 1970 AMX 390 Auto 1968 AMX 390 Auto 1970 Rebel Machine Project 1969 AMX 390 4SPD Project 1969 AMX 390 Auto Project 1969 Javelin 390 project 1997 Cherokee lifted 1998 TJ Lifted |
Posted By: FuzzFace2
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 11:08am
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Did you drive the car around to settle it? How could the front be higher just by putting tires on unless they are a lot taller than what you took off?
You left out the spring wire dia.
Guess you dont have a measurement of yours out of the car do you? Kind of talking apples & oranges if not out of the car.
Lowering plates and dont touch the springs. Someone on here is making some looks like $100 + s/h for plates & hardware. see post "lowering bolts".
Dave ---- ------------- TSM = Technical Service Manual 75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 11:10am
I have Brian, and I have been reading the threads about them, and that would really do the trick. The only thing I didn't like about the plates was that it kicked the wheels out another 1/4", and I don't want to kick the wheels out any farther since I already need 1/8" for the wheels to clear the caliper. ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
bcsideshow wrote:Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 11:19am
Its settled down about as much as its going to be, the tire height is 24-1/2". So they aren't excessively tall.
 ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: scott
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 11:19am
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3172895 is 67 05 06 08 09 right side 6 cyl light duty no AC
3169815 is 67-69 01 right 6 light duty no AC
If you have a 69 service manual, check section 12 (I think, its the steering front end section). It lists the wire diameter & load rating of the springs used that year. That info may help you narrow your search.
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Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 11:38am
Thanks for those part numbers Scott...
Why would they use 2 different part numbers on the same car, and difference in spring heights (18.5 & 19.5)? Both springs are listed RS also!
I guess I need to find one more 3169815*RE if I want my car to sit level. ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: bcsideshow
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 8:56pm
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The plates are 1/2" thick so they kick it out even further. good luck. It's a great looking car! ------------- 1969 SCRambler "B" 1970 AMX 390 Auto 1968 AMX 390 Auto 1970 Rebel Machine Project 1969 AMX 390 4SPD Project 1969 AMX 390 Auto Project 1969 Javelin 390 project 1997 Cherokee lifted 1998 TJ Lifted |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 9:06pm
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you can't tell what happened with the car before the springs were taken out. For all anybody knows a 400 lb person sat on the side that settled more. Why not just take cut out a coil and get the height you want. On the other hand, I find it hard to imagine that they will stay where they currently are. The last set that settled too much after we cut out a coil out of new 70 AMX springs took nearly a year after which they ended up being too low. When I first did my green 68 AMX even though we did not replace the springs it was much higher than before we started due to having the springs unloaded for a couple of years. It now sits where I like it but it took a couple of years to get back where it started.
------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development 
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Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 9:59pm
What I'm saying, or asking Dan. If I use the springs that you sent me, with the two DISTINCT different heights, do the members think my car will sit crooked.(I do). OR! The other 6 cylinder springs with one extra coil (11 compared to my 10) Will the coils be almost touching, and bottom out because the spring is weaker. I don't want to go through all that work, and then have either one of the problems.
I wish you had just sent me the springs out of your American, instead of a pair dropped off by Kirk.
As far as cutting a coil out. I talked to Laura at Springs 'n Things about that. She told me NEVER cut a coil spring. It takes the temper out of the metal, and could cause big problems. So I'll take her word for it.
Or, hopefully, I can find another spring out of an American with either of the two part numbers in the original post. I think that's my best hope right now...
 ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Jan/29/2013 at 10:31pm
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I will look around for the other part number.The springs I sent you came out of the same exact car as the ones in my convertible - another convertible. There is no way to say if the other ones in the convertible would be any different unless and until I pull them, These are 45 years old cars and who knows what they have endured over the years. And like you, I can't think of any reason why there were two separate springs in the same car but that is what was in Kirk's car which he is replacing with V8 springs and were removed from his car together just like I will eventually do with my car. If you want the springs you sent me and want to send mine back, just say the word. I am sure I will find a use for them on something else and yours are still in the box they came in unopened. It takes a year or more for the new springs to settle and if you are patient, I am sure you will end up with what you are looking for.
------------- Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Posted By: uncljohn
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 7:14am
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Never cutting coils is a bit bogus. Cutting coils have been done for years successfully. It is the manner in how it is done that cause a problem if heat is the mechanism. Never heat a spring. Heating a spring takes the temper out and torches heat springs. Then again, a good man with a torch is an artist and can do that with out causing a problem. A cut off tool can go through a spring with out inducing heat. A general rule is just that, a generality. And that can cause a problem, but a general rule of thumb is one coil cut off equals 3 inches of drop. And three inches of drop causes no mechanical problem. usually. I have gone 6 inches of drop using cut springs. It worked, more or less but had an issue with clearance for tie rod ends. It was both accidental from not paying attention to what I started with AND road construction caused the front cross member to bottom out on anything less than paved roads. I solved it by obtaining another set of springs that I knew what they were and taking 3/4 of a coil out. I had bought a car and took it apart with out first checking what springs were in it in the first place, as it turned out. The wrong ones. The factory did select different springs for OEM application for different sided depending on what was factory installed. Aftermarket on the other hand did not. So if you have two spring pulled from a junk yard car and have no idea what or where they came from other than a junk yard car and they look different? The odds are they are different and now you have to decide what to do with them. And personally? I would put them back in the junk yard. ------------- 70 390 5spd Donohue 74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 12:59pm
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_________________________________________________________________________
What I'm saying, or asking Dan. If I use the springs that you sent me, with the two DISTINCT different heights, do the members think my car will sit crooked.(I do). OR! The other 6 cylinder springs with one extra coil (11 compared to my 10) Will the coils be almost touching, and bottom out because the spring is weaker. I don't want to go through all that work, and then have either one of the problems.
I wish you had just sent me the springs out of your American, instead of a pair dropped off by Kirk.
As far as cutting a coil out. I talked to Laura at Springs 'n Things about that. She told me NEVER cut a coil spring. It takes the temper out of the metal, and could cause big problems. So I'll take her word for it.
Or, hopefully, I can find another spring out of an American with either of the two part numbers in the original post. I think that's my best hope right now...
Wow those springs are way different! ------------- Tony Vancouver, BC 1970 AMX 1972 Badassador AMO#10333 |
Posted By: amc67rogue
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 1:33pm
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The factory springs in those yrs. had a p/n for the pass. side & one for the drivers side . The springs for the pass. side were longer than the driver side . That was because most of the roads were sloaped toward the pass. side, that was what was refered to as the crown of the road . The longer spring on the pass side made the car sit level . ------------- Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code |
Posted By: rockAMX
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 1:45pm
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I might be asking a stupid question, but why are you putting in coil springs out of an 6 cyl American to go into a V8 AMX? APD sells the heavy duty coils for a 68-69 AMX. Kennedy probably does too. I bought them, installed them and they are the correct height. They do have heavy pre-loads and are tricky to install. Is the cost an issue? ------------- DWR 1968 AMX  |
Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 2:00pm
Not a stupid question rockAMX, and cost is not the issue, or wouldn't keep buying used springs till I find a matched set. LOL. The car sits to high in front to suit me. Look at the picture of my BBG next to the yellow AMX. Our cars sit dead even in the rear, but mine sits much higher than the yellow one in front. There is nothing wrong with my heavy duty springs in there now. So I don't need new springs. I want to drop the front end about 2". It will look better, and its an old drag racing trick that others and myself used back in the 70's. Put in American springs, and 90/10 drag racing shocks. When you dump the clutch, or with a good torque converter, it picks the front end right up in the air, and transfers the weight to the back. So it serves to purposes here. Lower it, and better weight transfer... ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 3:15pm
It's the heat........... so IMO, the "general rule" is around to cover those who take a torch and spend 5 minutes cutting and get 10 inches of the spring too hot. I used to use the torch to cut exhaust pipes - I could slice one pipe either off or or out of another and hardly get the good pipe hot. Easier, faster, quieter and cleaner than an air chisel. When I had better eyes and a steady hand I could slice some parts off pretty thin metals and not get things so hot I couldn't work on them. I don't advocate cutting for reasons other than heat, but hey, it's been done............... and with success so can't say "never" or "always". Ha, if Never or Always were the rule, AMC would have never won any races. Now, can someone with a parts book and a great memory tell me which models and years of AMCs had TWO different part numbers for springs to be used - one for the left, and another DIFFERENT part number for the right? I've seen cases of a spring on one side settling more than the other side after a number of years. I've seen such cars going down the road - an obvious spring problem on one side. So, I guess when IN the car, it's a problem, when out of the car, I'd have to check the parts book >>And three inches of drop causes no mechanical problem. usually.<< Wow, 3 inches? Yeah it can and often does lead to troubles. At least it caused problems in the cars I've dealt with over 40 years of time, clearances, geometry, etc. I experienced such a thing with far less drop a few months ago. Camber was not adjustable to spec, caster was so far off I'd have been at the ends of the threads, parts started rubbing, and the bottoming bumpers wore the control arms shiny in spots. It was all due to incorrect springs under the car. Was told they were from a "1970 AMX" - ok, then I'll assume V8 springs, and that means they'd work in an Eagle. WRONG. Did that baby drop. Not 3", but nearly 2" and it caused no end of troubles. 3" is a ton of drop with no other changes. IMO cutting the coils to change height is easier on the trunnion cars - the later cars the top coils wind in to a smaller diameter to fit and the bottom end needs to fit the spring support so the end of the coil is all but at the end of the recess in the spring support. But then I ask - why not just spec springs to the need and have the correct rate, good ride, and not worry about bump steering, braking performance problems, and other weird stuff. "It went down the road fine" isn't the same as safe geometry that will behave in expected ways under adverse conditions. Anyway - back to springs of different heights - yeah, the factory didn't use matched pairs in all applications. Aftermarket said @#$% it and made fewer part numbers and sold 'em in pairs. (the factory never did completely properly solve the slight "lean" issue we had with our brand new special order Eagle wagon back then. It lost one service manager his job and it got upper level factory reps involved. They got it "close enough" for us finally and we lived with a slightly uneven look.) -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 3:19pm
That's it - wish I'd have seen and read your post first. It was a difference you could see in the springs. Yes, and due to road crown, alignment was done differently back then as well. One part number for the left, another for the right. Different parts of the country had varying percentages of roads with steep crowns. They used to be the rule here. In the older areas, it's hard to get out of the car when you park along the side of the road, you climb up and out. Around here it was drainage. ------------- http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: rockAMX
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 3:24pm
My worry would be the compression rate of a 6 cylinder spring versus a heavy duty V8 spring. Some of the posts allude to that. Obviously the 6 cylinder spring is for a lighter front end with less force in braking. Do both cars in your comparison have 15" wheels? ------------- DWR 1968 AMX |
Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 3:35pm
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My worry would be the compression rate of a 6 cylinder spring versus a heavy duty V8 spring. Some of the posts allude to that. Obviously the 6 cylinder spring is for a lighter front end with less force in braking. Do both cars in your comparison have 15" wheels? [/QUOTE] _________________________________________________ The other car has 14" wheels, and tires close to the stock E70 size. With the 90/10 shocks, the downward force is really tuff. So tuff, you have a hard to pushing the shock back in by hand. But to pull the piston out to its length, its like butter. 90% down force 10% up. So that will help with braking when you end the quarter mile at 120 mph or so, and have to stop. Never had problems years ago, with handling or stopping at all. ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: uncljohn
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 4:41pm
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Who in their right mind is going to cut a spring with an air chisel? You might as well lay it on the ground and beat it with an sledge hammer. I said cut off tool, not air chisel. I use'm all the time. Dang. Easier faster than a torch no matter how good you are at them and something most people are going to have in their garage tools. I don't even own a torch and never did. And don't really intend to. ------------- 70 390 5spd Donohue 74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
Posted By: uncljohn
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 4:52pm
 amc67rogue wrote:The factory springs in those yrs. had a p/n for the pass. side & one for the drivers side . The springs for the pass. side were longer than the driver side . That was because most of the roads were sloaped toward the pass. side, that was what was refered to as the crown of the road . The longer spring on the pass side made the car sit level . ===================== Of the couple dozen front suspension I have rebuilt I have yet to see this. If I did after 40 something years of questionable maintenance on what quickly turned into a beater or a throw away car I would have just figured some fool put what ever they could find in the car and called it good to go and then gone out and found some new ones or bought some. With absolutely no paper trail to verify what I took out of the car actually belonged in there in the first place I would verify that the springs I removed were identical to each other and if not, gone and found some that were. As I too neither like the nose in the sky attitude that seems to haunt AMC cars, when I take them apart I take about a half to three quarters a turn off the top of the spring and then put spring back in when I am done. ------------- 70 390 5spd Donohue 74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
Posted By: Hurst390
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 7:01pm
I have cut coils on the front of my Spirit...I have slammed the front end down from 3 ft in the air HUNDREDS of times and they keep coming back for more... ------------- SC/Hurst Rambler 11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
Posted By: amxdreamer
Date Posted: Jan/30/2013 at 8:01pm
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A friend of mine was an AMC parts guy in the 70's and 80's. He checked his parts books and confirmed that they DO NOT list left and
right springs for a '69 AMX. All '68 to '72 Javelins and AMX
V8 cars list 2 per car, no left and right per application. A few early 6
cyl. Javelins list left and right depending on A/C as did early Rebels, Matadors
and Ambos.This is coming from a guy that should know his stuff first hand. ------------- Tony Vancouver, BC 1970 AMX 1972 Badassador AMO#10333 |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 7:29am
I was referring to chisel for exhaust pipes when stating that anyone good with a torch could cut something without getting it hot much beyond the cut. I've owned and used a torch for 40 years - a lot of practice. Cut off saws were not available and when they were, they were not common, I find a torch more useful, portable, and flexible. Can do more with it from welding to brazing, soldering, bending, cutting, etc. A saw does one thing............ ya might be amazed at how fast, clean and good a person who is well-versed with a torch can cut something like that.  I was saying I used a torch to cut pipe off when replacing exhaust parts as it's cleaner and faster and quieter than an air chisel............ never said cut a spring with a chisel! ------------- http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 7:33am
I've rebuilt a few hundred over roughly 40 years time.................. From very early Ramblers (well, it we call late 50s to early 60s range "early" Ramblers) to the latest AMCs. I used the original dealer tools (and still own many of them) and a few home-made tools. There's no urban legend to the 2 part numbers. Maybe the cars done weren't included in that. ------------- http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: purple72Gremlin
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 8:56am
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Posted By: uncljohn
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 11:52am
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Out here where you get to live the code of the West and they don't use road salt, exhaust systems last almost forever and torches are not required to get things apart. An electric screw works for most pick a part runs and I use a saws-all to take cut out exhaust pipes. The skilful artistic capability of yielding a Red Hammer is not mandatory knowledge. But like you say when you have that knowledge it is a pretty handy tool to have around. I have a cheap wire feed electric welder and an Craftsman Stick Welder and between the two I have enough to set the car I am working on, on fire. So that works for me and goodly set of metal cutting tools and a 2 1/2 in disc cutting tool works quite well. I can trim and worry metal up to about 1/4 in thick with that. That tool is how I cut all the ugly out of the mounting brackets i used to install the accessories on the Mercury Marine engine I am using in my Hornet. ------------- 70 390 5spd Donohue 74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
Posted By: Hurst390
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 7:41pm
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I would agree that a torch could cut a coil spring and be ok..your not heating the entire spring just an end...Bill maybe you can bring your torch to GAD and we can have a torch off...I'll bring a piece of 5" thick steel and lets see who can cut through it clean and square...and maybe even have a circle cutting contest
That would show who is well versed in torch use and who is not... ------------- SC/Hurst Rambler 11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
Posted By: JavmanBBG
Date Posted: Jan/31/2013 at 11:49pm
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if you want an idea of what 45 yer old 6cyl springs will look like with VW front tires here are pics of my car with its original 6cyl springs and all of that long spring is shoved up in there. the newer MT street tires for skinnys I would use now are taller and would gain a little more GC and should sit above the wheel opening. Also if you have headers they will bottom well before the springs will but the polly strut bar bushings and 90/10 shocks helped that issue out a bit and a deep pan may not work. I still sit about where my friends drag car with newer v8 springs and cut his springs a good bit, but higher than a tube chassis car   here is a good comparison  I also used -1" caltracs springs in the rear and 275 50 15s  |
Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Feb/01/2013 at 10:26am
Thanks javmanBBG! That is the look I'm after! When I put a straight edge out from the top of my tire, I have 3" to the top of the wheel well openning. WAY to much clearance to suit me. Do you know off hand, how many coils are in your springs? and how much distance between each coil? Mine are 10 coils, 1/2" gap between each. I hope one of these days I can find the 90/10's for 68/69. They are impossable to come buy.
Nice car BTW, and what a great group shot!
     ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: JavmanBBG
Date Posted: Feb/02/2013 at 3:15am
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if you want 90/10s you can use something like this http://www.amazon.com/Explorer-Pro-Comp-690001-Adapter/dp/B002SJBXPC as for the springs there is not much space between the coils and I broke the stock replacement style shocks form them bottoming out. I Wold consider 90/10 shocks necessary for my car as to keep from bashing the headers on bridge transfers and RR tracks I have to accelerate over them so the front lifts and the shocks keep it in the air since the settle back out slowly. Also the springs have enough force to fully extend with a hard launch witch while fun is also pretty violent, I could never get below a 2.2 60' because I need limiter straps to keep the front end from coming up too far witch breaks the tires loose when it tops out and unloads. |
Posted By: JavmanBBG
Date Posted: Feb/03/2013 at 10:36pm
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I count 11 coils but the V8 set I was going to use that came out of a buddies S/C Rambler also have 11 coils and sit 18 1/4" with no cups fingertips space between all coils and 5" between the spring tool holes so there compressed ~11" with just the load of the car on them  shock travel about 2 1/2" to the bumpers (I think I need shorter shocks and limiter straps)  I have the smaller sized sway bar and it sits at a pretty good angle may need shorter end links but it seems to work  |
Posted By: jackdk
Date Posted: Feb/03/2013 at 10:57pm
So you have the 6 cyl springs in yours. The coils look a lot closer together than mine. I can get my fingers in between my coils up to my middle knuckle, and have 8-1/4" between the spring tool holes. I have another friend that has a 6 cyl Javelin. He is going to check his coils tomorrow. Do you have any problem with your springs, or shocks bottoming out? I'd be happy if I can get mine to sit where yours is...
Thanks for the pics... This sure does give me something to go by, as that one set of American springs are 11 coil... ------------- 69 BBG AMX #09007 "If it's to loud! Your to old!:" jax-AMXpress@msn.com AMO #1945 |
Posted By: BBO Steve
Date Posted: Jan/19/2019 at 7:18am
| I see mentions of lowering plates and lowering bolts, I want to lower the front of my 69 javelin and would like to know more, pictures would help also. |
Posted By: aussierogue
Date Posted: Apr/20/2019 at 5:18am
| What 90/10's were you modding the Explorer Pro Adapter to? I've looked for 1969 AMX 90/10's and there is nothing out there. I'm thinking 74 Charger with one of the adapters. What that they same way you went? |
Posted By: PHAT69AMX
Date Posted: Apr/20/2019 at 2:54pm
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No 90/10 Info, but for reference this is Gabriel Shock Info for '69 AMX Gabriel - "Classic" Front 82069 Classic - Gas Rear 82155 Classic - Gas #82069 Front Extended Collapsed Mtg Code Dust notes Length Length Stroke Upper Lower Tube a,c 14.59 9.31 5.28 S1 S1 Yes #82155 Rear Extended Collapsed Mtg Code Dust notes Length Length Stroke Upper Lower Tube c 20.70 12.34 8.36 S1 EB1 Yes a = Recoil Cutoff construction b = Compression Bumper construction - collapsed length shown at bumper contact c = Slim Design for limited environment application S1 = Stud Mount = 2.37 Length, 1.37 thread length, 3/8 stud dia, 3/8-24 Thread EB1 = Eyering & Bushing = hole for 5/8 Bolt / Stud, 1.44 free width, 1.31 compressed -------------  Link to a http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySiKQsmWxU" rel="nofollow - Short YouTube Burnout Video |
Posted By: aussierogue
Date Posted: Apr/22/2019 at 5:19am
| Thanks mate. I contacted Calvert and they only do 70 onwards. Closest I can find are some adjustable ones for 74 Charger. |
Posted By: jblue1555
Date Posted: Apr/22/2019 at 5:37am
| 785-376-6328 call this number they will make you some springs |
Posted By: aussierogue
Date Posted: Apr/23/2019 at 9:51pm
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So I found these shocks. Viking make a 90/10 to suit 68-69 amx. 2 way adjustable. B338xx - the xx is what sort of shock you want. DL is for drag lower horsepower (under 600HP) http://vi-king.com/Viking_Flipbook/mobile/index.html" rel="nofollow - http://vi-king.com/Viking_Flipbook/mobile/index.html
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Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/29/2019 at 6:56am
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Old thread, but... The different springs for each side of the car might have had something to do with road crown, but I doubt it. Theory does sound good, but it was mostly due to loading of the car. All accessory components were heavier back then. What side the 40-50# battery was on made a difference. Easy to see the with and without AC springs -- the AC compressor added weight to one side, as well as other AC components. Most cars will sit level with an average weight driver (160 or so #?) in the driver's seat. My best guess is that's how they were balanced from the factory. May or may not have been some compensation for road crown also. AMC printed the spring wire diameter, rates, and loaded/unloaded height info in TSMs through 69. After that they deleted that info, probably as irrelevant to servicing the vehicle. Coil Spring Specialties ( http://www.coilspring.com" rel="nofollow - www.coilspring.com ) has all the factory spring specs, but I don't know if they will give them out. Rates changed after 1969 due to the change in spring geometry between trunnion and ball joint cars. Moving the lower spring pivot/mount inboard a couple inches to clear the upper ball joint (rather than directly above the trunnion) meant that the spring rate had to be increased to get the same bounce and ride height over a 69 and prior spring. The longer the lever, the easier it is to move something. Moving the spring makes for a shorter lever out from the body, so it takes a bit more effort to move the same weight from the tire, hence a heavier spring. ------------- Frank Swygert |