Hydraulic clutch linkage
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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Transmission & Drivetrain
Forum Description: If it's between the engine and wheels, it goes here
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43884
Printed Date: Apr/18/2024 at 10:47am
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Topic: Hydraulic clutch linkage
Posted By: KLW
Subject: Hydraulic clutch linkage
Date Posted: Oct/08/2012 at 11:40am
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I have seen a number of posting on ebay for a hydraulic clutch linkage conversion for jeeps. Has anyone used one of these or something similar on a car - in my case a 1980 Spirit? If so, how hard was it and what pieces needed to be "manufactured"? Any info would be appreciated! Kurt |
Replies:
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Oct/08/2012 at 1:56pm
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If it will fit a Jeep with 258 it will fit the Spirit. The only problem might be the rod from the brake pedal to the clutch master cylinder. You can get that from an Eagle.
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: KLW
Date Posted: Oct/08/2012 at 2:13pm
| What I am concerned about is how does the slave cylinder mount? I am not too worried about the rod to the clutch, that can be lengthened or shortened, but I don't know how to mount the slave cylinder??? |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Oct/08/2012 at 9:20pm
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The pedal is different - not so much the pedal, but how and where the clutch master cylinder rod attaches/connects.
I'd not say "if it will fit a Jeep........" as the cabin is a lot different. The lower portion - slave, yeah, probably, but not the top end. The Eagle is a whole different ball game. Not saying "it won't work" but I'd not assume either......... The eagle layout is not as easy to get to or work on as the Jeep if my memory serves.
The slave mounts on the bell-housing.
The rod pushes the lever BACK. The lever rides on a ball in the bell housing. The slave pushes back on the lever on the outside, the lever inside moves forward to release the clutch.
The throw-out lever is different. It's got different angles. I have on my shelves a T5 / 258 bell housing and the clutch release lever from a Jeep (can't recall the model/series of Jeep, sorry) - and it isn't anything like the Eagle setup at all.
I've got some great photos of my Eagle setup - master, slave, etc.
This is looking down past the master cylinder (brakes) to the clutch master - and I'm using a flare-nut crows-foot to connect and tighten the line to the reservoir.
 Here is the clutch slave cylinder -
 Ignore the switch I mounted, but note the bracket welded to the clutch pedal for the clutch master cylinder rod........ up and to the left
 More of the slave cylinder mounting and placement.
 clutch master mounts here (hole to the right of the brake master hole in this photo, near the blue wire connector and the steel line):
 Eagle clutch pedal
 Clutch master tucked away between brakes and left fender - it's above where that rubber/steel line is hanging down. She's TIGHT.
 This was taken with me laying on my back on the floor under the car looking UP. You can make out the clutch slave bleeder screw and the shielded line coming down to the cylinder.
 More of the slave on the original engine.
 and again on new engine
 -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Oct/09/2012 at 5:00am
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I was referring to the slave cylinder, but I did forget that the throw-out lever was different. That has to be changed also. I do recall the Eagles and 81-82 Spirits and Concords (four cylinder models only!) had a hard to get to master cylinder with a remote reservoir. After 84 or 85 the reservoir was deleted -- there is enough fluid in the hose up from the MC for operation. The hose just had a vented end plug. The pedal is definitely different. Took a look at the TSM, plus Bills pics show the difference. If you can find an Eagle for the pedal, rod, and MC, you should be able to use the Jeep parts on the transmission (slave and throw-out lever). That is assuming it's a 70s or 80s CJ with a T-5, or an early 80s four cylinder Cherokee with T-4 (only the first 2-3 years). The Cherokee AX4 and both Cherokee five speeds (BA10/5 and AX15) use a different setup. So parts may be harder to find than you think. If the kits you speak of were specifically made to replace the normal linkage on a Jeep with a T-5 then you should be okay on the slave side. The slave cylinder may have been made to work with the manual linkage throw-out lever, or a lever comes with the kit. On the MC end you will likely have problems though. Not saying you can't overcome them -- but it might take a lot of measuring/thinking/fab work and trial and error to get it right. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Oct/09/2012 at 7:08am
My 82 (shown in the photos above) originally had that hose that acted as the reservoir - but it had been cut off short for some weird reason, so rather than try to find that, I grabbed the plastic one from a Kammback in a scrap yard and made a bracket. The factory bracket almost always rotted due to the design of the beast. I also made the steel line from it to the master. The plastic reservoirs are hard to find in any decent or usable shape at all, but as farna indicated, so LITTLE fluid is ever needed or used, the hose they used from the factory was far more than enough fluid! And yes, that kammie I took the reservoir from was indeed a 4 cyl model. Mine with the tube is a 6. You could easily make that 'tube' reservoir, or have one made. it's a simple setup - steel line with crimped-on plastic tube. The master is in a very tough spot. You almost need to remove the package tray and brake master/booster to get at it for replacement. What am I saying almost - that's what I had to do to replace mine! You'll need to remove any package tray and have good dexterity to replace or install a clutch master, and the pedals. Also watch the plastic bushings in the pedal assembly - Tip - it's this clutch setup that caused most Eagle "sticks" to have ROTTED firewalls. "convert at your own risk".......................  ------------- http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
farna wrote:Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Oct/09/2012 at 11:00am
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Brake fluid gets on the firewall and eats paint off, leading to rust, or is the firewall just not strong enough in that area and eventually weakens and cracks out due to slight movement (like bending a piece of wire back and forth until it breaks)?? In the later case you might want to put in a reinforcement plate. I changed the clutch MC on an early Toyota truck for my bro-in-law and found a cracked firewall. Toyota had already issued a fix which was a reinforcing plate. I think it has an oversize piece for both sides so it sandwiched the cracked firewall, but don't recall for sure now -- was a long time ago. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: KLW
Date Posted: Oct/09/2012 at 11:50am
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Thanks everyone! The Spirit I am buying used to me a manual. The seller still has the pedal for the clutch. I don't know how tough it is to find the proper linkage to fit. I have the correct bell/fork and I know what I need to do to the Ford WC T5 I have to make it fit. I also have some clutch linkage from both a jeep commanche and some from a 1969 American. I just don't know if any of it is correct. Any ideas here or does anyone have any spare clutch linkage that would work? |