I decided to convert the system to O-ring fittings. The evap coil now has O-ring fittings and has been flushed out using the appropriate flushing chemicals. I purged the air out of the coil with Argon while silver soldering O-ring fittings that were fabricated from soft copper tubing and brass flare fittings. (more on fabricating soft copper fittings in another post) The expansion valve was easy, I just ordered one for a later AMC with O-ring fittings. I'm going to hard tube most of the system except bridging across to the compressor. Those will be flex hoses.

My questions are

 

What other condensers made by the factory that will fit the Javelin platform came with O-ring fittings?

 

Per chance is the 74 Javelin condenser an O-ring equipped coil?

 

Does it bolt up without mods to the 70 body?

 

I've got a Sanden compressor with -8 and -10 O-ring connections. The -10 is the suction side of course. The evaporator coil is -6 mostly except where it exits the coil, it changes to -8 via a silver soldered brass fitting. I've got an adaptor to convert to a -10 aluminum bulkhead fitting. From there I plan to use -10 hard aluminum pipe to the hose connection for flex. The -10 will go in front of the radiator support and then back towards the compressor.  Would a -8 suction line be adequate? or does it really need -10 tubing for the suction side?

 

If I use an expansion valve made in recent times (R134A) and the original sensor tube controls from the factory (you know the thin tube that goes into the condenser) and fill the clean system with R-134A PAG oil, do you think it will perform OK?

 

How much R134A should I put it in?

 

All you A/C knowledgeable guys, please help !!!

 

 

Thanks,

I guess the bolt up shouldn't really be different anyway, 70 to 74 Javelin/AMX front ends are basically the same platform sans fenders, hoods, grille, brackets etc. the chassis is the same.

 

Happy motoring,

 

Armand

 

Thanks,

 

Armand

Previously I bought a new dryer from Vintage too, I haven't decided which way to go yet, NOS dryer or new dryer, my fear is the NOS dryer will have bad dessicant in it, even though it's been sealed all these years.  Anyway the parts should arrive in a few days and with any luck I'll be making more progress on this install.

I purchased a cast iron compressor adaptor through ebay that bolts to the original aluminum compressor mounting bracket on a 70 V8 to convert to the Sanden compressor. It really made the compressor squat down and fit right where it should. Bought a Gates V-belt and installed it all. Appears like it oughta work great. hopefully I can post some pictures soon, been a bit relaxed with that lately....

 

Armand

 

The cars used the same condenser from 71-73, but AMC tweaked the design in 1974 so that the condenser and receiver/drier were different from previous years. This makes finding a correct receiver/drier for 1974 models next to impossible.

I recently purchased the NOS condensor from the same vendor in Arizona and it is an exact match to my original condensor, it is stamped with factory part numbers and date coded.

As far as the drier, I had to have my original drier rebuilt by a company in Fort Worth, Texas.

 

pitcrew,  I've contacted one of those companies that rebuilds driers and I'm back to leaning toward having them rebuild my original 70 drier to fit the 74 condenser with new O-ring style fittings and a -6 outlet which they tell me they can easily do. If I knew where to find the dessicant, I'd try doing it myself.

 

Armand

Now are you going to use a machine that can be set to do it automatically or are you using 1. lb cans (these are only 12oz) and a set of hand gauges ?Depending on which way you go could make the world of a difference .If you are under or over by 1 oz on the charge your vent temp will be widely effected .

You will need to take into consideration ambient air temp ,head pressure ,High and Low side,compressor temp and condenser temp at both corners .You can google 134A ambient temp charts. Are you installing electric fans or using the stock one? Air flow is a huge factor .

You guys are right on the money, have either of you ever herd of a product by the name Ice 32 ?

It is an additive for your pag oil. And yes it does work . Most of the after market compressors are in stalling when they rebuild them.

You can reuse the old condenser ,Receiver dryer and expansion valve with out any issue`s. 

Now after you get it all together your going to need to pull a vacuum on the system. Todays machines do this in 10 minutes . I will never do a 10 minute vacuum on anything that has been exposed to the atmosphere . This is where you should do a 30 minute vacuum . What I will do is add enough 134A to get the compresser to cycle with the car running, with the hood closed until it`s up to normal temp then recover and vacuum. heres the reason why I will do it this way. Once the system is open you allow moister into the system. By adding some freon into it and running it up to temp your turning all that into a gas form . It`s a heck of a lot easer to recover gas than liquid.

Now lets go back to Air flow. This can be one of the most important things when dealing with any A/C system. If air is allowed escape around the condenser by way of the sides top or bottom you can actually raise your vent temp by 10 to 20 deg easy .

I have used everything from plain house sponges to foam wrap for the house,heck I`ve even used plastic part out of other cars or trucks force air over the condenser . So if you have any space between the radiator and the condenser find some way to fill the gap. 

Paul

My Eagle has the 94 Jeep compressor otherwise EVERYTHING is 100% stock 1982 AMC, except the new receiver/dryer.

The hoses, lines, evap, condenser, you name it, it's original from the Jeep or the Eagle save for the receiver/dryer.

The lines from the Eagle were welded to the stubs of lines at the compressor fitting.

It was charged with 134a and it works just fine. 

I think perhaps the drain is partially plugged as it's leaving a lot of water in the garage after I park it and it doesn't run out as fast as it did when I first got things working, but it works fine. 

It was put together initially over 3 years ago, it was charged and made working the summer of 2012.

When I asked the shop that did the custom line and fitting work about needing new hoses and so on, and they said no, they do many of those systems every year and don't have problems unless it was a system that was also having problems with the R12. They told me that if it was working with R12 I should not expect issues. 

I've not had issues.

If you did not say welded...  I would not have noticed...  Mainly by the cleanlyness and my wee tablet.  I zoomed and had to find it. 

It is nice to know the hard parts stand up to R134A without failure.

I guess once you start putting things together for fit and finish,  exact parts may be different especially for year and model, let alone how one wants to arrange hoses and fitment. 

Your welcome 70 Donohue 390.

For clarification purposes, the drier that you're showing in your post doesn't look like the one from a 70 Javelin. The one that came with the 70 Javelin I got all the parts from doesn't have the brass nipple thing to begin with.

I'm not sure what the brass nipple does either, maybe you can elaborate on that for us 70 Donohue 390.

OK, that explains what that thing is that looks like a brass nipple, it's the service cut off valve.

I'd have to dig out the drier from the 70 Javelin (that I didn't use) and compare, I can't remember it having a cut off valve on it.

OK, I remember that valve, it looks like a check valve when you look into one end of it, and that's what it is.

The drier 70 Donohue 390 found just doesn't have the valve in line with the hose.

IIRC I got it from American Parts Depot.

May not longer be available though, I dunno.

I reproduced the underhood seal for 68/70 AMX/Javelin, I am out of them right now and my rubber extruded can't find my die.  He is looking, as soon as I have them back in stock, I put them int he For Sale Section.

Thanks.