AMC Eagle - front axle diff cover removal
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Category: The Garage
Forum Name: Transmission & Drivetrain
Forum Description: If it's between the engine and wheels, it goes here
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42455
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Topic: AMC Eagle - front axle diff cover removal
Posted By: Nightpath
Subject: AMC Eagle - front axle diff cover removal
Date Posted: Aug/15/2012 at 11:37pm
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Howdy all, Was checking over all the fluids in my Eagle. Got the seized bolt off the front axle housing to check the oil, but when I stuck my finger in it came out wet, clear and a bit greasy. It doesn't look like the oil has been changed, unless there's some crazy form of clear oil I've never heard of (yeah right...). How do I get the cover off so I can inspect it to see what has to be done? There's a I beam right in front of it. I tried jacking it up a bit but I never noticed the axle dropping much. There any tricks to getting the cover off? It's pretty late here atm, and I'm basically getting ready to do it tomorrow so any info will help. ------------- 1985 AMC Eagle |
Replies:
Posted By: Nightpath
Date Posted: Aug/15/2012 at 11:38pm
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And while I'm at it, is it OK to use the Make-a-gasket stuff in place of buying a gasket if I can't find one? ------------- 1985 AMC Eagle |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Aug/16/2012 at 6:59am
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I walked into a parts store and bought a gasket right off the shelf. I've not had good luck myself with "make a gasket" on differential covers, dunno why, it's just never lasted long-term for me. I've also been able to find gaskets in almost all cases, though. You can check the rockauto.com site to get part numbers then go to a local store - that's what i did. (I also took the cleaned up cover with me to be sure) Good clean modern gear lube is fairly clear, slightly golden if seen in a thick enough sample. but a bit spilled on a bench will look fairly clear. I put synthetic in mine and checking it even lately, it's pretty clear on my finger, but still has a distinctive smell to it. If you are talking of the differential, it won't drop, or gee, it had BETTER NOT! It's bolted directly to the engine mounts. (see photos below of differential mounted to the engine while the engine is sitting on one of my engine stands.) If it drops at all, that means the engine is falling out, or the brackets that hold the differential up to the mounts are broken and you have real issues. For checking lube - are you taking the right end - the axle disconnect area, or the left side, the actual differential? (this first photo shows the axle disconnect on select-drive models)   Do you mean the fill plug as shown in this photo below was stuck or seized? That's a new one. I've never seen a fill plug seized. Difficult to remove at times, but not seized.  -------------  http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: Nightpath
Date Posted: Aug/16/2012 at 7:32am
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Original fill plug was just stuck like a s.o.b. Going to pop the fill plug out again and take a longer better look, but as far as I could tell the fluid was slick and transparent. I always thought gear fluid was dark and thick(er) like the rear axle ------------- 1985 AMC Eagle |
Posted By: billd
Date Posted: Aug/16/2012 at 10:02am
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You can use modern fluids that flow more or are less viscous than the old style 90 EP hypoid gear lube. I use a synthetic, it's like a light colored honey in color, but if you were to tip the bottle, it would run out not much slower than a 50w engine oil. Stick a finger in, pull it out, and it drips off. (in reality, a SAE 90 gear oil is roughly the same viscosity as a 40 or 50 weight engine oil. They just use different standards or tests, so if run through a funnel, they'd flow out about the same) I'm not saying that what is in there is right, but it might not be wrong, either. It may be a 75w90 GL-4 rated and/or synthetic which can look more clear. Hardly anyone uses the old 90w gear oil/lube any more. When I was refilling the differential in my Eagle, when I got it full, the fluid ran out rather quickly from the hole. Maybe buy a bottle of the right stuff and compare to what's in there? Without seeing it, it's hard to say for sure. ------------- http://theamcpages.com" rel="nofollow - http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com" rel="nofollow - http://antique-engines.com |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Aug/17/2012 at 10:48am
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If the car has sat fro a long time the fluid may be clear -- all the dirt in it has settled to the bottom. You should be okay as long as it has lubricant (oil) in it. Certainly won't hurt to pop the cover and clean it out though!
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: SirDigger
Date Posted: Aug/17/2012 at 12:25pm
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Front diff=no Limited slip Traclok, so the oil stays much cleaner. For your question to the "Make a Gasket" Stuff We use it quite often in the "EquipmentRepairShop" of my Construction Company. We prefer Products from Caterpillar(works quite often better as their "normal" gaskets  )Make a Gasket products are just as good as how clean and tidy work u put in. Quick and Dirty will leak for sure. My tips -RTFM = Read the FuXXing Manual these Products come with an manual, take the time and read it, some are coated on one side, some others on bothsides, some need to rest some Minutes, so read it. -Clean Work is the Key to succsess, clean the surfaces from old gasket rests, prevent movements with tools/sandingpaper in the shortway, along the line of the gasket surface please not across the line, use finest grainsizes. -the Surfaces must be oilfree, so first lay the part dry, on diffs, wipe out every oil rests on the bottem of the diff with kitchenpaper and a lot of brakecleaner. -Clean the Screwholes on the diff, brakecleaner and a round steel brush on an powerdrill works fine, blew them out with compressed air till dry, every rest of oil will come back to daylight when u put in the screw, and will make the way for the rest of the oil, bottom screws are the one to take special care for it, clean the Bolts too, remove gasketrests and oilrests. -coat the surfaces as adviced, not the mass of product is important, the line must be closed. Torque the bolts not too tight, if the gasketmaker squezzes out on the sides its ok, give it time to harden, the manual will say how long recommended. If u have gaskets onside, they are quicker, if not, Gasket makers a good choice when used clean and propperly. ------------- SirDigger&his german Friends are looking for Parts http://theamcforum.com/forum/the-german-amc-forum-ambassadorsirdigger-needs_topic83570.html 1970 Javelin SST 304 1970 Javelin SST 360 |
Posted By: carnuck
Date Posted: Aug/21/2012 at 1:10am
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I undid the diff from the driver's side, loosened the bolt on pass side and lowered the diff a bit. I'm re-installing mine with studs on the top 2 bolts of the diff (lowering the front axle slightly to fix the CV joint angle)
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