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AZ road racer project

Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: Competition
Forum Name: Autocross, circle track
Forum Description: Ralleys, autocross, non-drag racing events and conversations
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40054
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Topic: AZ road racer project
Posted By: Javelin74
Subject: AZ road racer project
Date Posted: May/30/2012 at 10:39am
Thanks to Asif and Scott, I've got some great pics and info to get this build rolling (FINALLY!!!)  I'm going to be realistic after seeing how long their builds took and I'll be happy if I get this thing rolling on its own power by fall 2013.  Hopefully I can learn a few lessons from their ups and downs so maybe it will happen sooner, but I'm biting the bullet and accepting the fact that this could take a while.  Even my blue Javelin took over a year to get the 401 in, wired up and running, and that wasn't nearly the project this is going to be...and speaking of which, that car still has a few bugs to sort out but that's another thread.
 
The eventual goal is a NASA TT car or maybe some form of AI car down the road.  For now, it will be built with HDPE in mind and something that can be driven to and from the local events (in the Phx area) til I work up through the classes and have the car sorted out to the point I feel it will be at least fairly competitive.  It will have a streetable 360 with mildly ported stock type heads to start, as a result.  I plan to run a Astro geared T-5, fairly stock-type front end with grand cherokee fast ratio box, boxed A-arms, solid bushed strut arm and a coil-over conversion.  I have a 3.54 geared posi AMC 20 that I thought I might keep but the floating 9" setups are really starting to look like the way to go, so the AMC 20 is likely to get sold to fund the new rear.  I'll start with stock leafs with upgraded shocks, sway bar, and a panhard rod to start.  Nothing too fancy out back just yet.  Brakes will like be 12.88 fronts with narrow bodied 6piston SL6 calipers up front with a 12" to 13" brake on the rear
 
Anyway, here's the are project ready for getting picked up this weekend to have the cage installed.  Again, thanks to Asif and Scott for their the time they took for posting their pics so I had a great resource to work with in dealing with my builder...wish me luck!
 
 
 



Replies:
Posted By: GreggR
Date Posted: May/30/2012 at 7:59pm
WooHoo...another road race project...go get 'em. What track(s) do you have within easy reach...?

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No matter where you go, there you are... Buckaroo Banzai.'75 Hornet Hatchback


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: May/31/2012 at 12:34am
Firebird is the main one (3 different tracks in the facility) and Arizona Motorsports Park is finally reopening after a long legal battle with the city.  Those are both in the metro area.  Phoenix Intl Raceway is undergoing major changes for NASCAR so the infield track got torn out so its gone. 
 
For those a little more daring, Inde Motorsports Ranch just opened south of Tucson and Chuckwalla (just across the border in to California) has been added to the NASA AZ schedule.  So we have a decent selection here in AZ.  I ran Firebird West when I blew up the 360 that was in the blue Javelin.  Its a fun little track that reminded me of Second Creek where I ran a few times up in Denver.


Posted By: asifnyc
Date Posted: May/31/2012 at 4:28pm
Thumbs UpBeerClap  ok, this is SUPER EXCITING!!!!!!!!!!!   ClapCoolParty

can't wait to see more.  maybe when you're done we can meet up at Buttonwillow for a track day :)

also, just my opinion, but I would stay with the AMC 20 until / unless you build a motor with a lot more power and / or want to change the rear  suspension (get rid of leafs).

it will keep it cheaper for now and let you finish sooner.  maybe upgrade to 1 piece axles in the amc 20 or get stock axles double keyed/welded...


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https://asifnyc.com" rel="nofollow - asifnyc.com
'74 Jav/'74 Mat Race
'73 Jav/'75 Grm street
'75 Grm, '62 Amer, '70/'71 Jav - projects


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: May/31/2012 at 6:14pm
Thanks for the advice on the rearend.  I thought about 1-piece axle setups but tough to justify the $400+ for them when I'd really like a floater setup ultimately.  However, the double keyway trick is something I had forgot about and will probably do for some cheap insurance for the short term.
 
I've seen some real neat things done with rears (including the Control Freak setups) and am still looking over options.  I'll likely make a final decision when time comes for a fuel cell upgrade since that will probably cause the biggest space limitation.  I still need to make a trip to Hal's place (only about 20 miles from my house) and check out the road racers he's got and see how they are setup, too. 
 
Anyway, I don't know enough now to make a good decision so I'll do like most people do with their taxes and put it off.  Wink  As for the trip to Buttonwillow, I sure hope to take you up on that deal!!!!


Posted By: kellysguy
Date Posted: Jun/10/2012 at 11:50pm
Scott is really good at spending moeny...both his own and other's.LOL


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Jun/16/2012 at 8:10am
Great to see another Humpster racer in the works!
 
I'm with Asif on rear diff - AMC 20 is fine for now.  Double keyed isn't a bad idea.  At least make sure the axle nuts are torqued to spec (250#, IIRC). 
 
You may chew up  your "posi" unit after a few events, but I think you'll be fine with a peg leg until you upgrade to a different rear.
 
I would try the stock rear suspension w/o the panhard bar and rear sway bar to start.  That way you'll have a baseline, and I'm not sure you'll need/want/like a rear sway bar.
 
Front suspension sounds good to me, but please explain what you mean by "solid bushed strut arm."
 
13" brake is overkill for the rear.  I would use the stock car stuff (11"?) - see my thread for the Wilwoods that I have on the rear.  Good brakes for not a lot of $.
 
Scott
 
 


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jun/16/2012 at 11:53am
 


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jun/16/2012 at 1:06pm
Thanks again for the tips and advice, Scott. At one point, I had thought it would be cool to have the AMC 20 converted to a floater, but then the reality of $$$ hit me when I saw how cheap one could get the 9in. The car came with the rear sway bar, so I may yank it at an event just to compare, but I realize the rear suspension will likely be a work in progress for a few years.
As for the solid bushed strut arm, I basically had the struts cut and thread for a turnbuckle and large heim end and then welded the mounting bracket to accept the heim. Made a big difference when I was autocrossing the Javelin in being able to get a little quicker responsive and feeling in the front end. Those cars are REALLY hard to run at a Solo II event...talk about a bull in a china shop! Anyway, here's a pic.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jun/26/2012 at 10:36am
Made some headway since the last post.  Looks like I should have it back after the 4th of July at this rate.  In the meantime, the 360 I'm planning to run has been stripped and I'm doing a little prep to it such as improving oil drainback, deburring, and oil flow improvement.  My plan is to drop it off at the shop to late this week or early next week for machine work and confirming the piston size I'll be running.  Plan is to run the Wiseco flat top and K1 combo.  I have a set of bowl ported heads that will be getting cleaned up and will probably run 2.08/1.6 valves. 


Posted By: Slate
Date Posted: Jul/02/2012 at 6:51am
Was this Javelin a state or city government car at one time?
TS


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jul/02/2012 at 9:59am
You noticed the holes in the roof, huh?  ;)  No I think it was privately owned but the guy that owned it for most of its life had a private security job with Motorola...it also had a trailer hitch on the back.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jul/02/2012 at 10:25am

Here's a few pics of the engine mods to help oil flow and drain back.  I'm hoping to get motivated enough to drop the 360 off at the machine shop to get started on the build.  I opened up the front drainback holes here...

Below, I added a couple of 3/8 drain back holes at the front and rear of the block near the drains from the heads.  I was debating on adding holes near each lifter but that seemed like overkill.  However, I did like the idea of how that causes the oil to drip on each cam lobe.  But I've also read that some do not like it because of oil windage...ah, the debate continues...
2 more holes a the rear of the valley...
Lastly, I tapped the front oil supply port for a plug since I'll be running an external pickup.  I'll also plug the hole at the stock pickup location.  You can also see where I blueprinted the oil port going back into the block from the timing cover.
 
I had considered running some type of restrictor, but since its going to see road race use, I don't want a shortage of oil from that.  I'd rather just make sure I got enough capacity with a good accusump to protect from deprivation.  I'm also going to look at the old ported heads I was running and plan on getting them cleaned up for this motor with a set of new valves.
...tips and advice are welcome.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jul/28/2012 at 9:14pm
Got the car back from the welder today with the cage (minus full door bars) in place.  The engine is at the shop and I'm waiting on a set of Wiseco pistons/K-1 Rods (should be here this week) and some other stuff for the rotating assumbly.  Ordered the Astro gear kit for the T-5 upgrade and it should be here in 3-4 weeks (was on serious back order).  Things are slowing starting to roll on this project.  Getting the car back is a nice steps so I can start doing my chasis and body prep, but I really wish I had sorted out the running hot issue on the blue car so I didn't have that on the back of my mind...
Anyway, here's the progress report.
 


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Sep/21/2012 at 8:37pm
Looking good!  What's your next step?  Front suspension?  Whose coil overs are you using?  WSC?  
 
You mentioned door bars; are you going to gut your stock doors and run a NASCAR type door bar?
 
Scott


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Sep/21/2012 at 10:10pm

Yep, working on the front suspension now.  I got to boxing the front lower arms just before I had to go in for ACL surgery on my right knee (just blew it apart about a month ago).  The project is obviously hit a dead stop for a bit while I recover, but I do have some updates.  BTW, thanks for posting the oil pan and pickup setup you have.  I actually have an old Aviad with the same Bulltear pickup for my setup, so I got a good idea of how that will all go together.  Of course, I'm only playing with a 360. 

Speaking of which, just got the short block assembly back from the shop.  Looks good, just need to keep it under wraps until I'm ready to drop it in.
 
Here's the one lower control arm I got done just before the surgery.  Running out of MIG gas toward the end, but my rookie welding skills aren't much to brag about.
 
Started mocking up a set of QA1's but I want to use the stock type bar rather than the brackets the AMC kits come with.  I have the WSC's on my blue Javelin and had those bracket bow on me after some autocrossing.  Didn't really like that, so I'm hoping the T-bar works better.  Unfortunately, they don't make an aftermarket T-bar that fits.  I checked out the Nova bar but even it was too short, so I took my bars to a machinist who turned them down (burnt them out of the stock spring perch while I was burning the rubber control arm bushings out for the polyurethane set I got.  The stock bars are around .875 diameter, but the QA1's use .75 diameter) and added the groves for a lock ring.  I don't have pics of the finished product, but they came out great and it cost the same as having to buy a set.
 
 
Previous owner got a little too excited torquing down the uppers on the driver side as I discovered during disassembly, so I had to do a little patch work with some 1/8" steel. 
 
 
 
Lastly, got the patching done on the firewall, chopped down the channels so they won't hold 20 lbs of dirt, gravel and whatever else and then sprayed it with truck bed paint.  Should hold up nicely.
 
 
 
I got the Coleman Impala type spindle snouts being welded onto some 1" blocks for my new spindles and already picked up a set of matching hubs.  I plan on running some 13"x1.1" front brakes for now since I already have the (narrow body) Wilwood SL-6 calipers.  Probably going to need to upgrade someday to some 1.25" thick rotors and proper calipers, but I'm hoping some good ducting and pads will work through the HDPE and TT process.  At that stage, I'll probably start measuring up your last question as to what type of door bars I'll run.  Not sure I'll do the NASCAR style.  I may opt to run something like the Jim Richards Javelin. 
 
In the meantime, I'll be working on the strut arms, getting the engine compartment prepped and painted, and hopefully drop the motor in.  Also, my Astro A-5 gear kit came in this week, so I'll have the T-5 to build up.  Between knee rehad and this "short" list, I ought to be busy well into the New Year.
 


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 10:24am
Nice work! 
 
On the firewall patches, did you butt weld or lap weld?  18 or 20 ga metal?  I've got to tackle that this weekend.  Also, did you patch anything on the driver's side?  If so, what?  Are you going to keep the windshield wipers?  Going with the stock steering column or aftermarket?  Stock dash or are you going to fab something up?
 
Thanks
 
Scott


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 11:35am
I just ground down the contact area real well and made lap joints with some 18g sheet.  Here's the pic showing the driver side. 
 
Since I won't have a trailer rig (and the guys will run here in the rare event of rain in the desert), I am keeping the wipers.  The column is still stock.  I made upgrade at some point, sooner rather than later, but I'll worry more about that once I move to the passenger compartment.  Ive got a nappy old dashpad I may use and then form the panel from sheet and/or fiberglass.  I like the simplicity of Asif's layout, so it gave me food for thought.


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 12:11pm
I made/bent up some 20 ga metal to use as a blockoff for the wipers.  I will screw it into place so it won't be permanent.
 
Going with an aftermarket column and fabbed dash.  Will get to that one of these days.
 
What about the pedals - stock or aftermarket?  If aftermarket, floor mount or hanging?  Going with a hydraulic throwout?
 
Scott


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 12:28pm
Very nice!  That could be an option to have the wipers be removable down the road.  I'll keep that in mind.  The pedals/linkage/etc, will all be stock style for now.  Again, I saw how Richards set up the floor mount pedals. 
 
 
I kind of liked that, so that may be an option for me down the road, but I generally like the mechanical clutch linkage with a centerforce.  If I need more clutch for some reason, the hydraulic will probably come into the picture.  Its supposed to hit 105 in PHX today and the foot is still swelling up if I sit up or stand for over an hour so I'll probably have to write this weekend off in term of getting work done so I'll have to live vicariously through your project at least one more week...good luck!!!


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by Javelin74 Javelin74 wrote:

Very nice!  That could be an option to have the wipers be removable down the road.  I'll keep that in mind.  The pedals/linkage/etc, will all be stock style for now.  Again, I saw how Richards set up the floor mount pedals. 
 
 
I kind of liked that, so that may be an option for me down the road, but I generally like the mechanical clutch linkage with a centerforce.  If I need more clutch for some reason, the hydraulic will probably come into the picture.  Its supposed to hit 105 in PHX today and the foot is still swelling up if I sit up or stand for over an hour so I'll probably have to write this weekend off in term of getting work done so I'll have to live vicariously through your project at least one more week...good luck!!!
 
I'll go with hanging pedals; they'll be mounted to my dash bar.  If you go with floor mounted pedals, you have to make sure that the floor is strong enough in that area, otherwise, you'll torque it too much during heavy braking.
 
Scott


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: asifnyc
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 6:15pm
looking good Dan.  Can't wait to see this thing finished!  Clap

btw, my car is running again and I'm signed up for the Oct. Buttonwillow race!


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https://asifnyc.com" rel="nofollow - asifnyc.com
'74 Jav/'74 Mat Race
'73 Jav/'75 Grm street
'75 Grm, '62 Amer, '70/'71 Jav - projects


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Sep/22/2012 at 6:28pm
Thanks, Asif.  I'm really glad to hear you got the AI car back up and running!!!  Good luck out there in October!


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/06/2012 at 11:23pm
As the knee slowly starts to loosen up and work, I'm finding it easier to tackle some projects again.  The fact that we are out of our 100+ degree days helps quite a bit, too!  So I pulled out the grinder and welder and finished boxing and painting the lowers and welding braces to the upper arms and got them painted as well.  Also got around to sqeezing the new urethane bushings in...well, all except one on the upper that is hangin up a bit on the old bushing shell.  I'll deal with that guy tomorrow and start prepping the engine compartment for paint.  Once that's done, I can start putting the front end together and I should have enough strength in my knee/leg that I can hump the crank around and begin assembling the 360...ok, I'm getting ahead of myself.  Here's the update on what got done today...pay no mind to the amateur welding, again.
 
 
 
 
 
 


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Oct/07/2012 at 10:03am
Dan - 

Looks good from here.  My lowers have been done for a while (really nice TIG welds by Jeff Puras) but I need to do something to the uppers.  How thick are your braces?

Thanks

Scott


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/07/2012 at 1:08pm
I just used some 1/8" by 2" material you can pick up pretty much at anyplace like HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace, etc...  A little tricky getting a good angle on the grinder and welding gun since the space is tight if the bushing shells are still in but some planning as you groom the braces will make that job easier.


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 8:04am
What's on the agenda for the weekend?  Prepping engine compartment for paint?  If so, I may be in the same boat.  What's your plan for that?  I have a new DeVilbiss gun that I'm itching to use, but have zero experience painting.

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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 9:43am
Bingo!  I started some sanding on the engine compartment this week and hope to have all the prep done by next week.  I still want to get some type of caulk/sealant into the little nooks and crannies around where the roll cage goes into the passenger compartment, but I haven't figured out what to use for that just yet. 
For painting itself, I have an old conventional gun I used to spray the blue car (single stage enamel, about 15 years ago.  That was my first time spraying a car), but I did pickup a HVLP gun setup to use this time.  Just a set from Harbor Freight.  I'm planning on use a single stage urethane this time.  Best tip, most simple tip I could give a novice is to have something you can test the gun on to get a feel for how it sprays and setting your spray pattern up.  I've never really heard of a magic bullet sollution for being a good painter other than "practice, practice, practice."  But if you're patient and have done good prep, you'll end up with a good looking product.


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by Javelin74 Javelin74 wrote:

Bingo!  I started some sanding on the engine compartment this week and hope to have all the prep done by next week.  I still want to get some type of caulk/sealant into the little nooks and crannies around where the roll cage goes into the passenger compartment, but I haven't figured out what to use for that just yet. 
For painting itself, I have an old conventional gun I used to spray the blue car (single stage enamel, about 15 years ago.  That was my first time spraying a car), but I did pickup a HVLP gun setup to use this time.  Just a set from Harbor Freight.  I'm planning on use a single stage urethane this time.  Best tip, most simple tip I could give a novice is to have something you can test the gun on to get a feel for how it sprays and setting your spray pattern up.  I've never really heard of a magic bullet sollution for being a good painter other than "practice, practice, practice."  But if you're patient and have done good prep, you'll end up with a good looking product.
 
I'm also in need of seam sealer; figured I'd pick some up from Napa or Advance Auto.
 
Thanks for the tips on painting.  I still need to do a bit more reading up on it before I pull the trigger.
 
 


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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 3:50pm
Can I get some more info on your front suspension QA1's?
I'm looking into coilovers for my street/strip/track 73 amx


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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/11/2012 at 4:23pm
Adam,
I ordered the DD502 QA1 coilover shocks for the front end along with the bearing kit and stud mount conversion.  The length seems to work best if you use the stock type T-bar connector to the upper control arm, but the poly bushing is .750 so you'll either need to open up the bushing or mill the stock ones down (I think they are .875) and then have some type of lock ring grove cut in them or some other way to keep the shock from sliding around.
For springs, I ordered the QA1 GM type 550lb springs that are 10" in length and open up to 3.5" on top to fit in the stock seat.  
Just a big FYI-  I haven't had a chance to get the car on the ground to make sure this setup will work.  The QA1 coilovers are not threaded all the way up the body, so I may have issues getting the adjustment I need to get the body up, but I took a bunch of measurements along the way so it should work.  If nothing else, a custom spun spring may be needed to get ride height and stiffness where I want.  Just wanted to make sure you knew where I was with that part of the project and some remaining questions I haven't had a chance to answer yet.

EDIT #1
I ended up pulling the 10" GM type springs and went with the 8" Mustang II style coilover springs. The 10" ones were just too tall for a road racer. They might work with some looking for a lighter rate spring (450 lbs) and looking for an original ride height.

EDIT #2
See on page 11-12.
I ended up going with a set of 3/4" thick drop spindles.  My buddy Dave had a pair that were way too thick for his Spirit setup and was getting rubbing so I got some 3/8" thick ones and swapped him.  The 3/4" is probably overkill but hey, he already had them.  I have 1/2" too which would probably be very good for this type of setup and gaining some suspension movement.  Got these from bcsideshow on the forum.  Very nice quality and a Kudos for working with the guy.
The plates drop the front about 1.75" by raising the spindle/hub and brake caliper bracket for those who don't know what they are.  It ended up requiring raising the coilover over about 3/4" which is pushing the 8" springs to the limits of adjustment on the QA1 shocks.  May need to go to 10" springs for more height if needed/desired.  8" spring get you LOW!!!  but in a good way for a track car.  I noted that Donohue/Penske raised the hub about 3/4" on the trans-am cars based on the book Unfair Advantage so this mod is probably a decent idea.


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Oct/15/2012 at 8:02pm
Sure looks good Dan!!!!


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/21/2012 at 9:19pm
Spent the weekend cleaning up some more odds and ends for prepping the engine compartment and remembered I wanted to make a bracket for a shock tower brace so I spent most of today getting that part of the project done.  Good thing my welding skills are getting better...not!  Shot a couple of holes through the sheetmetal on the driver side and my beads still look like something coming out of a sick kids nose, but it should do the job and look decent after I spent some time cleaning it up for paint.
 
 
 
 
 
 


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/24/2012 at 10:06am
Got my new, custom built spindles using an Impala style snout back from Tim at AZ Custom Machine.  More great work from Tim!  Thanks again to Adam and Scott for the tips on how to get this done.  Here's a pic of the Coleman hub I'll be running on that spindle, also. 
 
 


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Oct/24/2012 at 11:22pm
Looks Beefy!!!!!! When is the kit coming to market?


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 3:47pm
are you using gas or gasless wire? good ground and clean welding surface?
hows your gun components look?


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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 3:53pm
Ran out of gas so I'm using flux now.  Been grinding the metal to get good contact between the material and at my ground.  Gun parts look ok and I'm not having any feeding issues.  I think 99.9% is operator error of not being smooth with my movements or not getting the puddle to move all the way to the prior weld.


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Oct/26/2012 at 4:08pm
I've been in the same boat. I will NEVER weld with flux wire again. I ended up grinding and going back all over my welds after I replaced my gun because I had problems with the welds not only looking like crap but they were weak and would break easily with a little hitting and prying.
Just not the same penetration.
I've ran into the problem with shooting holes and your best bet is to pause every so often so the metal doesn't get too hot that you shoot through it. If you do just slowly fill the hole up allowing time for the metal to cool as you fill up the hole.


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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/04/2012 at 1:28am
I finished up the strut tower braces...
 
 
...and finally got some orange sprayed in the bay.  Now to start focusing on putting the suspension together up front and begin building up the 360
 
 
 
 
 


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Nov/04/2012 at 4:24pm
Looks great!!!!!! Nice progress.


Posted By: bulletpruf
Date Posted: Nov/25/2012 at 4:57pm
Hey Dan -
 
Anything else to update? 
 
Scott


-------------
Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/25/2012 at 9:40pm
Just got back from a weeklong vacation but I did make a little headway...

 

Tackled the front suspension a couple of weeks ago and got the QA1 coilover setup in place.  Still not sure how the 10"/550lbs springs will work with the setup, but the car sits at about the same height as my other Javelin with the WSC coilover setup when that car was motor/tranny-less.  If it doesn't drop down enough and I can't dial it lower with the coilover, I may try the 8" Ford/Mustang II type coilver spring.  Those come in spring rates of about 350lbs all the way up to 700lbs...

EDIT: Ended up going with the 8" springs...the 10" spring was too tall for a lowered road racer.
 


 

 


Scott, I saw those brake brackets G.D. cut for you...that and the strud rod bushing elimination are my current 2 projects (well, once I get done putting the intake back on my blue car).  I like the idea of doing multiple holes for both 13" and 14" rotors.  Since I'm using the narrow body SL6 calipers, I like the idea of the extra meat on the 14" to control heat, but having the option to run the cheaper 12.88" rotors.  I may have to talk to my machinist about doing something like that.   Other than that, I've just been talking some odds and ends for the project.  I picked up my T5 with the Astro A-5 gear set from the builder, started basic shortblock assembly and measurements, ground up the strut rod frame bracket for welding the mounting tabs for the heim joints...oh yeah, and put up the Christmas tree!  Star

 

 

 

 


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/17/2012 at 12:57am
I guess I'm about due for an update, but find myself caught in the middle of several projects.  I've been spending the last couple of weeks building up the short block once my rod bearings came in.  I got the Wiseco flat top/K1 combo in last weekend and spent some time getting the old Aviad pan bolted up while pulling the heads out from storage that I had on the 360 I blew up 2 years ago.  Those have a 2.05/1.6 chevy valve setup and had a bench port job done years ago.  I'm going to take them in and get them checked out since I'd like to run them on this build. 
My front brake brackets and strut rods are getting machined and hopefully will be done before Santa comes so I can get the chasis back on 4 wheels soon.  Clutch/brake pedals setup should be in this week, too.  In the meantime, I've been struggling with the thought of putting an EFI setup Indy intake on the blue car to match the heads (and help resolve that oil leak that I can't seem to make go away) and then running the EFI Torker and my old Haltech setup on the new racecar project.  I've gotten so spoiled working with EFI that the idea has become more tempting...TBD!?!?


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jan/12/2013 at 9:47pm
Made a little bit of headway getting the motor together.  Stud girdles are on but since the pushrods didn't make it by this weekend, I'll have to hold off til next week to button the valvetrain up.  Still a 99% chance the EFI Torker ends up on this motor and I go with an EFI converted Indy Intake for the 401 in the blue Jav.
Ported set of 993's with some 2.05/1.6 Manley race flos ready to go.
 
 
 
Not much to report on the progress with the chasis.  The brake brackets are still with the machinist, as are the strut rods but I do have the parts for the front brakes and have started gathering the rear brake parts (12.19 x 1.25 with wilwood FSLI 4 piston (1.38) calipers) as well as a adjustable prop valve and a master cylinder. 
 
 In the meantime, I finally cured the nasty oil leak the blue car had...Hope to make it up to the Scottsdale Pavilions' car show finally next weekend...just in time for the Barret-Jackson weekend!


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jan/27/2013 at 9:32pm
With all the rain this weekend and a trip from the parents taking some priority, I was still able to make a little bit of headway on the project over the last couple of weeks.
Got the 360 painted and started fitting up brackets, oil lines, etc...
 
Also picked up my brake brackets from Tim and AZ Machine.  Another very nice product...
 
 
 
 


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Feb/15/2013 at 11:47pm
Finally dropped the motor in, started running break lines, dropped the steering column back in, and started checking wheel clearances...still a lot of work to go but I hope to get the T-5 in this weekend and start working my way back to the rearend...
 
 


Posted By: 70 Donohue 390
Date Posted: Feb/16/2013 at 4:59pm
Lookin great Dan Thumbs UpThumbs Up I don't think I've ever seen a BBOrange Javelin RoadRacer before.  I also like the BBS? wheels on the blue car. Where did you find those? and what are the dimensions/backspace and tire sizes? I've been thinking about a set of BBS with gold centers to match my stripes on my 72 JavAMX. I also see what looks like nice comfortable seats in the blue car. What did they come out of?


-------------
67 Rogue 290 Convert

70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction


Posted By: asifnyc
Date Posted: Feb/17/2013 at 1:18am
look great! when's the first race? Clap

-------------

https://asifnyc.com" rel="nofollow - asifnyc.com
'74 Jav/'74 Mat Race
'73 Jav/'75 Grm street
'75 Grm, '62 Amer, '70/'71 Jav - projects


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Feb/17/2013 at 9:56am
Thanks, fellas. 
The wheels on the Blue Jav are a set of Simmons I had made about 15 yrs ago.  They are 17x9/17x11 with 6.5" front backspace and 5.5" rear back space.  My current tire combo is a set of 255's in the front and 315's in the back.
The deeper front wheel was possible by having a 1" aluminum spacer block installed between the upright and spindle/brake bracket.  I get a little bit a brake knockback from the flex in corners, so I had some floating disks made to help eliminate most (but not all) of that.  The rearend is a Versailles 9" that later got a set of baer brakes.  I think with a fairly stock suspension, you are limited to about 4.5-5" backspacing with most wheels on a 71-74 Javelin w/o using spacers of any sort.  The seats are out of a late 80's Thunderbird.  Had them recovered to match the rears.  They are super comfortable but unfortunately, pretty heavy too.
Asif,
If I'm lucky, I'm hoping to do some shakedowns with the new car before the full heat of summer hits AZ!


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Mar/10/2013 at 8:13pm
Looks great love the color.

Have you dropped the car yet to see how the qa1s and springs are?
Why didn't you go with WSC again and just modify the "T" like you did here?
What did the bracket that bent look like?
Also would you say you have more clearance between wheel and spring/coilover with WSC or the QA1?

Sorry for all the questions!


-------------
73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Mar/11/2013 at 1:51am


Thanks!  I did have the car down with the motor in it and it was sitting fairly high, but probably no higher than the other car sat when the 401 1st went into it.  I wish the QA1's were threaded up further so I could've just run the 8" Mustang II type springs, but I may still end up going that route.  Those come in 500, 600 and 700 lb rates which should work well on a track car.  But these 550's should work for now.  I figure I may be able to get away with the 700's since they won't compress as much but I want to see where everything ends up when I get the T5 in along with the rest of the stuff.
 
I'll have to take a pic of the bracket from WSC.  It basically just bowed in the middle.  I had a funky issue with the 1st set of springs they sent me.  They end up binding and they thumped on the bracket pretty hard a couple of times and caused it to bend.  I liked the T-bar better since it seemed like it would be stronger than the plate WSC used and was probably a bit lighter.  Probably not by much, but I liked the simplicity of just having the T-bar.  As for clearance, I'd say its about the same since both setups seem to use a similar width/diameter spring.
 
EDIT: Ended up going with the 8" springs...the 10" spring was too tall for a lowered road racer.
As for updates, I had a failed effort to get the T5 installed on Friday.  End up thumping the pilot bearing so hard it actually turned slight so it wouldn't let the snout line up.  Spend the rest of the weekend tearing it back down, lining the pilot and clutch assembly back up, cutting the hole for the shifter to come through the floor, routing break lines, and oil lines, making brackets...Obviously, I got sick of dealing with the tranny, so I'll try tacking it again next weekend.  Wink
 
 


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Mar/11/2013 at 2:21am
Good luck with the install!
I'm pretty new to spring rates and have trouble thinking how much the suspension will travel which is why I've been looking to you for advice. When you said its sitting high were u adjusted near the bottom? Maybe you could get away with 8" springs and if anything get a spacer?


-------------
73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Mar/11/2013 at 8:54am
I'm pretty much smack in the middle of the 3" or so range you have to adjust the QA1's.  Once everything is on the car, my guess is that I may have some room to lower it about an inch, which should get me about the same ride height I have on the blue Javelin.  Since there is about 3" of adjustent, I figure changing to an 8" spring that is a bit stiffer should work fine and give me a little room if I need to slam the car lower.  Since its going to have to haul itself to events until I get a rig setup, the higher setup should be safe for the street and still work pretty decent at the track.
 
BTW, I ended up going with an Astro Performance A-5 gear set for the T5 and this car is running a 360.  From what I hear, it should hold up with the A-5 gear set.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/12/2013 at 10:35am
Long overdue for an update, but most of the progress hasn't been to visual inspiring. Plus I got sidetracked with getting my EFI Indy intake to put onto the blue Jav, so I could pulled the EFI Torker from it and place it on the track car. Lot's of plumbing and such to be sorted out for that so the swap probably won't happen until next weekend, the earliest. I'll toss a pic of the Indy intake on the Blue car's build link soon enough.

As for the track car, I did manage to get the T5 in and made a solid mount for it to bolt to the cross-member...pics to come. Also began plumbing the rear brake lines/proportioning valve, with the valve near the shifter, and the accusump plumbing to the rear seat area. I also started sorting out all the spaghetti that is going to be the new electrical and EFI harnesses that need to go into the car. The goal this weekend is to sort out the wiring along with the components and the accusump and pull the Torker on Sunday night so prep for the swap. I'll take some pics over the weekend and get those up early next week.


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Apr/23/2013 at 12:35am
Updates?! 

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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/23/2013 at 1:39am
Its a rather messy update, but at least its some much needed progress.  I also got some pics of the Indy intake I'm swapping onto the blue car with the 401 and the old EFI Torker going onto the track car.  I also have a pic of the coilover next to a tape measure to give you an idea of how much adjustment I get with the QA1's and a pic of the ride height difference of the 2 Javelins.  I definitely think I can plan on using the shorter 8" mustang type springs and go to a 600lb or 700lb spring, if needed...anyways, here's the current state of chaos!


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Apr/23/2013 at 11:28am
Woh there are those fr500s? :D

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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/23/2013 at 1:28pm
Well, they're a set of 17x9 knock-offs that I was able to pickup for $400, including a set of tires on them with a good amount of tread left, but they were 235s and 255s.  I'm going to try to unload the 235's for a set of 275's and place those on the rear.


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: Apr/23/2013 at 3:24pm
Cool I'm running some on my car.

-------------
73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/25/2013 at 11:56pm
BTW, How's your project's coming along?


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: May/01/2013 at 11:19pm
Slow... Just did the annual moving of the car from storage barn to work barn tonight... 10 years this year.
I would like to be done with sheet metal work by the end of May but most likely wont be done till end of June.
I wanted to have it on the road in paint this summer but isn't looking promising.
I'm real anxious been way too long. Maybe I'll take a week off work and put in 60+ hours and get a jump start.

Anymore progress? I love your build.

-------------
73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: May/02/2013 at 3:01am
Thanks! I hope to get a picture worthy update sometime in the next couple of weeks. Been busy getting the Indy EFI intake mounted up on the blue Javelin and dealing with plumbing issues. Should have that done this coming weekend as the last couple of fitting come in and then start focusing 100% back on the track car.

Problem here is that its starting to hit those triple digits, which will really slow down my progress. As June creeps up, I'm good to go for about 3-4 hours and then the heat gets impossible to deal with. My goal is to get it running this summer and have it track ready by the time temps start coming down this fall.


Posted By: GTspiritracer
Date Posted: May/12/2013 at 3:56pm
very cool


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: May/13/2013 at 10:14am
Thanks, GT. Wish I had more updates to post this week, but most of my time was spent with home projects (mother's day honey-do's, of course) and the free time I had was spent sealing up the last couple of leaks from the intake swap on the blue car and getting the tune dialed in. With that running again, I'll be able to focus more on the new project again...


Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: May/13/2013 at 11:48am
Stop slacking

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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Jul/10/2013 at 10:35am
Long overdue for an update, but the heat and many other projects (the blue Javelin, rental repairs, daily driver Jeep overheating, the most important -vacation travel!) have slowed the progress.  There is more but its limited to very unappealing and confusing wiring and plumbing of oil  lines.  I did have a free couple of days to get the oil coolers mounted up, at least.



Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Aug/06/2013 at 1:32am
Here's a somewhat more meaningful update.  The little details don't look like much but I'm starting to realize how close I'm getting to being able to try firing up the motor.  Still plenty to do but at least this is proof I'm sweating it out in the 100+ degree garage trying to hit my goal of getting it running this fall.


Got the power steering cooler mounted up and had to redo the shock tower brace since I hadn't planned on running the EFI originally.  It was mounted too low for the fuel rails so I welded a piece across the top to raise the mount point...so much for that nice looking orange paint.

Lot's of wiring going on at this phase and you can see the brace mounted up now.  Some stuff you can't see include mounting up the EFI fuel pump to the rear frame rail along with the fuel filter.  I'm planning on making a fuel tank trap to control slosh and help with the EFI and then upgrading to a safety fuel cell down the road.

For those weak of heart and not a fan of carving up original parts, you may want to look away...  I've decided to stick with a stock type dash so I've had to do some significant trimming to make it work with the cage.  After the bar padding is added, it should help cover up my butchers work.




I also got around to building mounts for the Accusump and bolting down the battery box.  I've decided to mount it on the rear seat panel.  I added a large piece of 1/8"x2" steel to the back side of the floor/panel to keep it secure in the event of a crash, but I'll probably add a little extra security.  I'm not to keen on the idea of a battery bouncing around the passenger compartment with me should the unthinkable happen.






Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Aug/17/2013 at 7:36pm
Ugly hot outside these days in PHX, but I was brave (or dumb) enough to knock a few things off the list today. Started by cutting up the stock tank to build a sump for the EFI system.  I remember how bad the slosh was in the other car before having a custom tank made for it with an in-tank pump.  Since I'll probably go to a safety cell in the future, this was a low buck option for getting things running for a couple of years.  I also plumbed the fuel lines back to the rear filter and fuel pump.

Also started shaping the sump tank...

Also laid the fenders back on the car to make a little space to work on the rear of the car (where the fenders have been laying for about a year) and get a sense of where the ride height is.  Looks like I will be swapping over to the 8" Mustang II style springs and go with some 700lb springs for road racing.


Going to try to make more progress with the dash and working on the fuel tank sump tomorrow, but if its still in the 110 degree range, I may spend the day checking on the pool and beer temperatures instead!


Posted By: XRX744
Date Posted: Aug/18/2013 at 11:27am
Coming along nicely!



-------------
69 AMX, pro touring /track car, TEAM tribute, aka: "The Kenosha Corncob"


Posted By: SirDigger
Date Posted: Aug/23/2013 at 4:36am
This will be an real nice racer....

Seems I have to Visit Phoenix again Wink


-------------
SirDigger&his german Friends are looking for Parts http://theamcforum.com/forum/the-german-amc-forum-ambassadorsirdigger-needs_topic83570.html
1970 Javelin SST 304
1970 Javelin SST 360


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Sep/27/2013 at 1:39am
Great to see progress. 


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Dec/03/2013 at 12:13am
Hey Dan,  Question on the seats for the Orange Javelin and the Blue one. What seats are you looking at for the Orange car? The blue one has late 80's tbird seats correct? Same as Joe's orange AMX. Do you have any pictures of the blue cars brackets? I have been told they are not to bad to bolt in.

Thanks,

Dave


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/03/2013 at 1:10am
No pics of the brackets that I can think of (yes, you're right about the blue car's seats), but I recall using some braces between the stock brackets to locate the seats upon. Joe may have his sorted out better than mine because I thought it was a bit of a bigger pain than I expected it to be (I.e., bolt heads hitting the seat or bracket when trying to use the slider and needing some grinding).

I'm going to use some fiberglass/composite FIA type race seats for the project car. I have some used, dated Momo's that I could make legal with a back brace. I'll probably run those for a while or switch to some Sparco's or something like that depending on how the Momo's fit my butt by the time I actually finish that project. I made some progress finishing up the hood and getting the carbon wrap complete. Honestly, you can tell it was my first time try to play with carbon. Looks like crap, but it will pass the 50ft at 50 mph test so I'm good with that for now. The fuel tank mods are almost done, too. Hopefully I get those wrapped up in the next week or two, finish the wiring and dash panel and try putting some gas in the tank and firing it up before New Years.


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Dec/03/2013 at 1:17am
Thanks for the update. Post some pictures of the carbon wrap. Was thinking of using that on the interior on the Spirit. I will talk with Joe about his seats. Glad to hear you are making progress on it. I have about 200 mile on the Spirit and it's working well. Love the wheels and tires, no longer living in fear of them blowing up. See you for Christmas in Denver?


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/03/2013 at 4:42pm
Yep, I'll be up for the holidays before Christmas!  I'll get some pics posted this weekend!


Posted By: Prafeston
Date Posted: Dec/04/2013 at 8:07pm
Well, this is awesome!! I'm subbed!

-------------
1983 AMC Eagle SX/4


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Dec/12/2013 at 1:04am
Pictures????


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/17/2013 at 12:41am
Well, life has slowed down the project once again and the worst part is that its during the nice time of year in Phoenix.  I've made some progress patching together a cowl hood I picked up from Restodude aka Matt.  Big thanks to him for the effort to pack and have it delivered.  As you might be able to tell, I've spent a good amount of time replacing some rust and impact damage to the metal frame and then smoothed out the fiberglass skin a fair amount before making my first attempt at playing with carbon fiber...and it completely looks like a rookie job.  But, it should pass the 50/50 rule (looks good at 50 ft going 50 mph)!


I've also spent a little more time working on the stock gas tank and getting it EFI friendly.  Once that's done, I still have a dash panel to build and I'll need to finish the wiring and get the distributor set before I can try to fire the 360 up.  Well, at least I know what my New Year's resolution will be.




Posted By: amx39068
Date Posted: Dec/17/2013 at 7:24am
Dan and I met up at the Scottsdale Pavilions show last weekend and his other car looks and sounds terrific. If this one comes out anywhere near as nice a his other one it too will be a killer of a car.

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Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Jan/11/2014 at 7:04pm
Hey Dan,
 
When you dig out of doing everything else. I have a spirit hood we could practice the carbon fiber on as well.  I just bought a set of ProCar seats for the AMX. Should have them hom ein a few weeks. Hope you are making progress. Dave


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Feb/17/2014 at 12:59pm
Finally back to work on the race car this weekend and I'm hoping the next few weeks are even more positive in terms of getting work done now that I made it through the holidays and some life hurdles that got tossed my way.
First up, I finished the fuel tank to make it more EFI friendly and got it mounted and plumbed.  I'll still need to wire up the fuel pump, but that side of the car is a lot closer to being able to crank the motor.






Pulled the hood off to do some final epoxy touch up, sanding and clear coating.  Should be ready to throw back on the car by the weekend.


This week, I also hope to finish getting the exhaust bolted up (just need to pick up 2 bolts for that), drain the rear end and get ready to fab up the brake caliper brackets (that will likely be getting outsourced so the rear's going to need to get pulled), and get back to building the dash/interior and finalizing the wiring/ignition setup.  Goal is to try to put some fire in the motor by March and have something rolling on its own power before May.




Posted By: restodude
Date Posted: Feb/20/2014 at 8:31pm
The hood looks great , I am so glad you got it! Also glad I could help! I hate seeing classic cars and parts go to waste, the car looks awesome as well , I hope it all comes together for you in your time frame , take care, and thanks for the kind words! Matt

-------------
restodude


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Mar/20/2014 at 10:43pm
Time for another long overdue update. Finally got the hood where I can feel I can live with it for a track car, mounted up the hood pins, patched up some holes, replaced bushings for the clutch pedal, and got some material to make my brackets for my dash, which I hope to start tackling this weekend along with the wiring. The weekend after that, plan is to drop the rear, mount up a panhard bracket, rear brake brackets for the calipers and mount the rotors...ok that's probably optimistic! ;)
Here's some pics of where she's at now...




Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/06/2014 at 12:03pm
Spending some time getting some cutting and welding done. Started welding up the panhard bracket, cutting the drum brake backers so the rotors and calipers can be mounted, assembling the distributor, and really hope to get the dash done this weekend or the next.



Posted By: sprit81
Date Posted: Apr/13/2014 at 5:32pm
i give you credit you are really doing a good job on the car.


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Apr/13/2014 at 5:46pm
Nice work.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Apr/21/2014 at 11:02am
A few more updates. The details definitely take time. To start, I'm getting closer to finishing up the dash panel. I welded up some brackets for some carbon fiber scraps I picked up online to use as panels and started mounting switches, lights and gauges. Here's the status...




I also have been tinkering around with the rearend for the panhard and rear brakes. Waiting on some brake hats so I can get things mounted up. Lastly, I got in some 8" coilover springs. As you can see, the ride height is way better than with the 10" springs.



Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: May/06/2014 at 5:11pm
Here's the dash a little more complete...I'm in the phase of wiring, painting the interior sheet metal gray and tidying up but those pics aren't ready yet.





Posted By: Ant
Date Posted: May/06/2014 at 10:42pm
Mmm carbonfiber

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73 AMX project 401 stroker, t-56 mag
Full-time machinist


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 2:54pm
Long overdue for an update, but spent most of the Phoenix summer trying to stay cool, traveling a little and taking on some projects on my blue Javelin.  Now, back to it...

I hope to add some pics soon, but here's what's new and may interest you all.  I got some Flex-a-form composite springs and slipped them on last night.  I also took a second to weigh the difference.  The Flex-a-forms are 10 lbs each.  A stock steel leaf spring off a 74 Javelin is 27 lbs each.  Total weight savings- 34 lbs.

I've also been fighting some wiring bugs and have been slowly making progress.  The whole new harness, added EFI and other components has caused some extra headaches, but I hope to fire this thing up this month finally.  The ignition switch turned out to be bad so I just added a racecar style setup since I'll probably dump the stock column at some point for something lighter.
 
As I'm slipping the rearend back in, I'm going to try to finish up the panhard bar bracket on the frame.  It's really tight back there so I need to make sure I get it right.  Here's a few pics of the latest...
 
 
 


Posted By: asifnyc
Date Posted: Nov/08/2014 at 1:05am
Thanks for the update. My javelin rebuild is nearing completion. On the backside of a project to lower the car 2".

Let's see more pics. Or maybe some video. Can't wait to see this thing on track!

-------------

https://asifnyc.com" rel="nofollow - asifnyc.com
'74 Jav/'74 Mat Race
'73 Jav/'75 Grm street
'75 Grm, '62 Amer, '70/'71 Jav - projects


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Nov/09/2014 at 11:28pm
Looks great!!!!!!!!!!!! 

I was looking at different fuel pumps as I am dreaming of EFI some time soon for the Spirit AMX. You might want to look up Robmc performance and look at their Power Surge fuel pump kit. Not sure if you baffled your tank or not. 

It looks like a great solution if there are any fuel starvation issues. 

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/powersurge.html

Just a thought. 

Dave


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/12/2014 at 11:44am
Thanks for the tip, Dave.  I did build a sump in the stock tank and will put a cell in it some day.  I have some pics of the sump build somewhere on this thread.
I tried firing up the old Haltech E6 this weekend to prep it for start up and make sure all the electrical connections and sensors were good to go only to learn my old Windows 95 laptop has died on me, which I needed to test-n-tune the system for start up.  The program is DOS based and I was trying to work around that issue when I finally said, "time for an upgrade!"  Did a little searching and found a used, but much newer-than-what-I-had, Accel DFI 7 setup that only needs the V8 injector harness (chevy style) and the Dual Sync distributor cable and I should be good to go.  Now I'll be able to run the injectors sequential rather than batch and have wide band auto-tuning capabilities among other improvements.
Over the weekend, I also dealt with a few other wiring issues (tail lights, accusump, etc...) and finished bolting in the composite Flex-a-form leaf springs and put the rearend back in place.  I'm waiting on new U-bolts to bolt it down.  I installed new stock type shackles and used rubber on the upper end since I've read that the leaf spring bushings need some give to avoid competing roll centers with a panhard bar.  Flex-a-form warns that you should not remove the poly-bushings that come with it.  I'm hoping the single rubber bushing on the upper shackle link offers enough give, but I may have to change the front leaf bushing if I notice problems.
Once the rearend is bolted in, I'll mock up my frame-side bracket and get something welded in (or maybe outsource that project if it gets too complicated since room is TIGHT!).
The new EFI should be in by this weekend so I'll be ripping out the E6 harness and installing the DFI harness, too.  I promise pictures by the end of the weekend.  Hopefully she'll be rolling again and I can get the new wiring harness gremlins all sorted out!


Posted By: garsod
Date Posted: Nov/15/2014 at 4:09pm
Great update. Makes my weekend of getting the oil changed, high side A/C line and fuel filter changed pretty weak. The cold just decided to come to Denver so any further progress is on hold here.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/19/2014 at 12:15pm
Asif,  I watched the video of your lowering project.  Pretty neat and interesting setup Al put together for you!  It would be great if you and him get that IFS package really sorted out for road racing rather than just a street car performance upgrade!  That's one of the reasons I haven't taken the plunge for that setup yet, but that could change depending on the results...yep, sorry!  You're the guinea pig for now! ;)  One thing I really wish Al would look at doing is developing a stock-type knuckle that lowers the AMC spindle!  I'd imagine that would do wonders for keeping the geometry happy while bringing the car lower...For those who don't follow Asif's AIX Javelin and/or know what I'm talking about, check out the link:

http://asifnyc.com/going-for-low-nasa-american-iron-amc-javelin-update/

As for me, sorry, I still haven't remembered to take any more pics for the update.  However, I got brave and took out the welder and began building the frame bracket for the panhard.  Still need to sort out some cross bracing and make the bar itself, but overall, I was pleased with how it was looking.  My new DFI 7 setup came in and I'm waiting on a couple of odds and ends.  If all goes well, the panhard will be done this weekend and the removal and replacement of EFI systems will be well underway.  Also, if the panhard is completed, I'll be able to bolt the rear brakes up and try to finish plumbing brake lines so I can put her on the ground again.


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Nov/30/2014 at 10:30pm
Quick little update on the track car since I spent the last couple of weekends working on the blue Jav.  The pics show the panhard frame bracket welded in place, rear brakes and wheels on and the car back on the ground.  Still sits about 4 inches higher than I want it in the rear even with the flex-a-form "low" springs installed.  May have to go to lowering blocks, but I'll see where it sits when its all back together and loaded with fluids.  Also ripped out the Haltech harness and started routing in the DFI harness.








Posted By: iapexl8r
Date Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 6:36pm
Did you torque the rear leaf spring bolts, the forward and aft mounts that attach the leaf springs to the car before you let it off jacks? this will make it sit very high. Just fyi , you may already know this.

                   chris


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 6:41pm
Thanks a bunch, Chris.  I didn't think of that.  I'll tinker with that and see if it gets me lower, and how much.


Posted By: asifnyc
Date Posted: Dec/03/2014 at 12:28am
Love those fr500 wheels! Thought about running them on my car. Do you know what they weigh? What size diam/width are they?

As for getting the rear lower you could put a 100 lbs of something in the trunk to simulate 15 gals of fuel and see if that lowers it at all.

Can't wait to see more

-------------

https://asifnyc.com" rel="nofollow - asifnyc.com
'74 Jav/'74 Mat Race
'73 Jav/'75 Grm street
'75 Grm, '62 Amer, '70/'71 Jav - projects


Posted By: Javelin74
Date Posted: Dec/03/2014 at 11:23am
Asif, those are the 17x9 replicas.  I bought them used with the tires so I haven't weighed them first hand but this site might help you get an idea of weights.  Certainly not as light as a lot of race wheels, but they were a great deal at $400 for the set with fairly new skins on them.  These supposedly weigh around 20 lbs, but the 18's run about 26-28 lbs

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-1007UAS/1994-04-Mustang-Silver-Fr500-Wheel-17X9



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