Engine mystery????
Printed From: TheAMCForum.com
Category: The Garage
Forum Name: AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
Forum Description: AMC-made I-6 engine mechanical, ignition and fuel from basic repair to high-perf modifications
URL: https://theamcforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37624
Printed Date: Apr/18/2024 at 11:58am
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Topic: Engine mystery????
Posted By: hpva
Subject: Engine mystery????
Date Posted: Mar/07/2012 at 6:02pm
Last year I had the engine rebuilt in my 59 American(196 L head).I put about 800 miles on it and decided to rebuild the carburetor since it didn`t idle as smooth as I thought it should. This October my friend rebuilt the carb and I reinstalled it ,the car ran good for a day.The next day I took it for a drive and it started to buck and sputter I had all I could do to get it back to my garage with a top speed of only 20 mph.After a month of fustration I bought a carburetor on ebay and installed it on the car and as soon as I took it for a test drive I started to have the same problem,bucking stalling and loss of power.Now I`m really confused and last week I bought a remanufactured carb from a place in California they set the choke and all the ajustments so its a bolt on and go.You guessed it after i installed it yesterday I took it for a drive and it idled and drove great for a half mile then started doing the same thing again.Today after some thought I started to think it may be a fuel pump problem but before I check the flow out of the pump I decided to plug the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pump to the vaccum operated wipers.Again I did a test drive and lo and behold the car ran and idled great,I drove it for about half an hour and 5 miles with zero problems.I plan on driving it tomorrow to see if it acts up.Could this be the answer has anyone else ever had a problem like this?Does anyone have a theory or an answer to this?
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Replies:
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Mar/07/2012 at 8:17pm
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Sounds like you found the problem. Check the vacuum line from the pump to the wiper motor. If it's rubber just replace it. They get old and don't seal very good. The wiper motor itself could have a leak. You can get it rebuilt for under $100 by Peter Stathes (www.amcrambler.com). Cheaper than converting to electric, and it should be good for another 40-50 years. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: hpva
Date Posted: Mar/11/2012 at 3:13pm
| Well the car ran fine for three days,today when I took it out it started bucking again.Every time I stepped on the gas it it would act as if it was running out of fuel but put it in park and it would idle ok.Could it be a failing fuel pump,the gas tank is clean and it has a new fuel filter also.I`m running out of ideas . |
Posted By: gtoman_us
Date Posted: Mar/11/2012 at 3:36pm
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Sure sounds like a fuel pump. ------------- Moderator - Emeritus Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Mar/11/2012 at 4:49pm
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The wiper leak could have been in the diaphragm of the fuel/vacuum pump. So the pump is the most likely culprit at this point. sometimes one of the diaphragms go, but the other is usually close behind it.
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: maximus7001
Date Posted: Mar/11/2012 at 7:19pm
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Sounds like maybe the timing advance is sticking sometimes.
------------- 1968 Javelin SST 1997 GMC Safari AWD 2001 Daewoo Nubira SX (Winnipeg only model) 1997 Honda Accord EX (Canadian Model) Winnipeg, home of the Jets. |
Posted By: 59ramblersuper6
Date Posted: Mar/12/2012 at 11:42am
| I would suspect a clogged fuel filter. I would replace it with a clear one. I have a 59 classic with the original tank. I cleaned it out real well (MEK, Marine Clean) but at this point I think the lead lining is gone and surface rusts is an issue. Right now I'm changing the fuel filter every hour of running or 60 miles. It will clog with rust and block flow to the electric fuel pump. If you get a see-through one (Spectra, Pep Boys, it has a replaceable filter) you can rule out any fuel supply problems. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Mar/13/2012 at 8:13am
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There never was a lead lining. Gas tanks are bare metal inside (well, many are plastic now). There could still be residue from old gas, but the cleaning should have taken care of that. What you need now is a liner to seal the metal and stick the rust down. It should eventually clean out, but doing it like you are could take a while. Pull the tank and stick a handful of gravel or 3/8" nuts (any odd ones will do, or a short piece of chain) in there. Put in a little water and shake it around as best you can. That loosens all the rust. Wash out real good and let dry. Then get some liner. I use Hirsch Auto tank sealer, but Eastwood sells a sealer that's about the same. DO NOT use the POR-15 liner! It's a polyurethane. If you don't have 100% coverage fuel can get behind the lining and cause it to separate from the metal. The Hirsch/Eastwood stuff is really thin and won't separate. I used a POR-15 kit once, never again! It might work fine with 100% coverage, but that's hard to ensure inside a tank. The 20 gallon kit left a few uncovered spots in my 18 gallon tank. I've used the Hirsch stuff with no such problems, three cars and four motorcycles. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Mar/13/2012 at 6:49pm
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have u checked the fuel tank lines? and hoses? ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: Pdok
Date Posted: Mar/13/2012 at 9:39pm
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Something sticking in the needle/seat? Had similar issues with a bit of crud in my truck fuel system, but sharp tapping on the Holley cleared the stuff out. You could also just have a moderately failed fuel pump, putting out low volume, enough to fill the bowl at idle. Restricted flow or clogs give the same thing, but no way to know unless you go through the whole system and pull lines and check. Does it happen when the fuel level in the tank is very low, like it could be sucking up some grunge from bad gas? You said the tank was cleaned, tho. The kit was less than $75, and I did it all in a few days with cure/dry time.
------------- 76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap. |
Posted By: hpva
Date Posted: Mar/14/2012 at 6:23am
| I ordered a fuel pump and waiting for it to arrive. I will post results after I install the new fuel pump and after I run it for a few days.Keep your fingers crossed. |
Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Mar/15/2012 at 12:16am
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The TSM outlines a simple test for checking fuel pump volume. But it wouldn't be surprising in an car this old that the tank is filled with rust and leaves, the lines partially blocked, etc. Is the sight glass on the pump (if it has one) clean? If there's rust in there, there you go. A simple test is to drop the hose off the pump inlet and run it into a coffee can... should flow OK, and not just drip. *possibly* the fuel filler cap vents are plugged (or wrong cap on); unlikely, but easy to test for! |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Mar/15/2012 at 8:31am
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If you determine that fuel (or enough fuel) isn't getting TO the pump, there is a strainer inside the tank as well. If you have an air compressor blow back through the line into the tank (remove the cap, and don't do this with more than half a tank to keep from blowing any fuel out). What will likely happen, assuming the strainer is clogged, is the strainer will blow off or burst. Either one will then let more fuel to the pump. You might want to put a clear filter between the tank and pump before running. Alternately, just drop the tank and clean it. The strainer can be replaced with a unit for a 65 Mustang. Same size -- just slips over the end of the fuel pickup tube. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Mar/15/2012 at 11:11pm
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I hope your problem resolves easily. Mine didn't -- it was about as bad as they get. it's fine now, but man it was a PITA!! PS: I tried nails, a box of nuts, etc. But the best thing was my 6 foot length of chain i use on my engine hoist. HEAVY! But easy to get out. http://wps.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Gas-tank/index.html" rel="nofollow - http://wps.com/AMC/1963-Rambler-American/Gas-tank/index.html |
Posted By: hpva
Date Posted: Mar/20/2012 at 3:11pm
Well I`ve been running the car for five days now with the new fuel pump installed and it is running great. I hate to jinx it but I am almost confident that the fuel pump solved the problem.
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Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Mar/20/2012 at 9:27pm
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congratulations! yup, it's entirely reasonable that the fuel pump was bad, and sounds like you nailed it. It is simply a common -- not universal -- problem that tank crud, etc plugs filters etc and causes similar symptoms. May your fuel tank stay clean forever! When in doubt, add filters :-) Wouldn't hurt to chop one open next time to change one, just to see! |
Posted By: hpva
Date Posted: Apr/07/2012 at 6:44am
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hpva wrote:Posted By: gtoman_us
Date Posted: Apr/07/2012 at 9:08am
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This may be a far reach but I experienced the same conditions and the fuel pump resolved the underling issue until again intermittent sputtering. Turns out that ethanol fuel was the culprit. Acted like vapor lock in the old days. Switched to non Alchy fuel and not an issue for 20 plus years now and my GTO has the tri-power set up.. An inline electric supplemental pump may solve the problem if you only have access to ethanol gas. ------------- Moderator - Emeritus Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 5:37am
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It could actually be "old fashioned" vapor lock. Alcohol will vaporize easier than gasoline, so the alky blend fuel may vapor lock under conditions non-blended maynot. Could be other additives in the fuel causing the problem as well. If you have a metal fuel line running from the pump to the carb either insulate it or replace it with a rubber line. A piece of rubber hose that will fit over the flare nuts makes a good insulator. I had to cut my metal line and replace it when I was on a long trip. Blamed it on the elevation/fuel blend changes. Had driven the car 6-7 years with no problems, drove it from SC to Ohio in the mid 90s and it started vapor locking up there! Couldn't drive it unless I parked at least 30 minutes when stopping.
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: hpva
Date Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 7:31am
| I don`t think its a vapor lock problem. As soon as I start the car and take it out on the road cold it bucks and it ran fine all last summer and I am using the same fuel as last year. I have a pertronix unit to install and and my friend suggests we put that in next before I take back the new fuel pump I bought from carquest for an exchange for a replacement.This way we can eliminate an ignition problem. I am still thinking it is a problem with the rebuilt fuel pump I got from the auto parts store. |
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Apr/08/2012 at 8:54am
| I had a similar engine running rough problem in a 64 196 that was cured with a new condenser. |
Posted By: tomj
Date Posted: Apr/09/2012 at 8:49pm
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I suggest doing the capacity test as suggested in the TSM. Then you can know, by measuring, if the fuel pump is delivering or not. Why guess? Hard tests are the way to go especially when things get weird.
------------- 1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/16/2012 at 9:40pm
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similar issues... i have a 65 American with a 232. after finding a problem with the distributor gasket. i made a new one and it was running better than ever for about two days. the reason i figured it was the gasket was because i went to adjust the timing and once i had it perfect id go to tighten it down and it would mis run super rough and die. it had me scratching my head for a minute. up until the point where i pulled the distributor and noticed the gasket wasn't it good shape. so that i thought had fixed my rough running from time to time problem. so after two and a half days it acts up again. it got progressively worse on that drive home. to the point where is dies a couple times and i barely make it home. once i get home it wont even start. so at that point in time i think timing... so i pull the distributor again. check everything and it looks fine. this time i double check the timing by placing piston one at TDC and going through all of that. double check the TSM for proper firing order and rotor rotation. i also realize it has been about six months since the last major tune up. so i get a new cap, rotor, condenser, and plugs. spending less than 40 bucks i figure this shotgun effect will solve my issue. still nothing.. it cranks and cranks and cranks. but wont start. it just backfires up through the carburetor sometimes even catching it on fire.. i have noticed that while cranking the engine over if i pump the accelerator once or twice it kinda slows the cranking for a monent.. then will most likely backfire. at this point i dont know what to do hence the reason im on here. my next moves are to do a compression test. (head gasket?) pull the carb and go through all that. even though it was just rebuilt approx 8000 miles ago and make sure the jets and everything are fine. and maybe check the fuel pump flow.. i did try blocking off the wiper motor to see if that helped. it did nothing. once thing i did notice after barely making it home that night after sitting for about an hour was when i pulled the distributor and looked into the crankcase it was filled with smoke.. please help!!! i want to enjoy this thing some more before summer hits! Thanks in advance! |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/16/2012 at 10:39pm
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Did you look at the wires going to dizzy..the primary wires that is. The ones that feed the coil and go into the dizzy and connect to the points? Could have insulation breaking down and grounding out inside dizz. Also how about the b+ wire to the coil. And it could be the coil itself. ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/16/2012 at 10:44pm
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Rambo. I wouldnt start pulling parts other than ignition, because it really sounds ignition related. ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/17/2012 at 4:53pm
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Backfiring does point to timing. Are you positive you have the engine on the compression stroke? Could be 180 degrees out now, which would cause back firing. You might just pull the cap and note where the rotor is pointing. Pull the distributor and point the rotor 180 degrees from where it was (exact opposite). Try cranking and see if that helps. If it doesn't help (or makes it worse) then reverse what you did. Doesn't matter where the rotor is pointing initially. Have you tried moving the distributor one way then the other while cranking? You might just be a few teeth off. Has the timing chain been changed? If it's a high mileage engine the chain may be a few teeth off. That will cause timing to be way off and backfires also. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 1:43am
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okay i replaced the wire that goes from the coil - to the condenser. checked the primary and secondary ignition resistance loads and everything is in spec. i tried flipping the dizzy 180. it didn't make anything better. i have been able to get it running. while cranking.. it backfires bucks and so on, then half rump runs. it order to have it somewhat idle the throttle needs to be approx 1/2 way down.. i keep hearing an occasional popping sound which seems to be coming from under the intake manifold towards the rear. (intake or exhaust manifold gasket?) at full throttle the engine might break 4000 rpms.. i dont have a tac.. also im not familiar with these older dizzy's. where is the dizzy suppose to ground and when? because im showing continuity from coil negative to anything that is metal on the distributor. is it suppose to be that way? as for the timing chain... i dont think it has ever been changed. the milage shoe aprox 10,000 so id guess it has 110,000 on it. the car is in too good of shape to have 210,000 miles on it. all original glass, trim and door panels.. are the timing chain gears known to brake teeth? if so im afraid that might be the issue... |
Posted By: kellysguy
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 6:39am
If the points are closed yes. I find it strange it started running bad when you tightened it down. A bad distributor gasket won't make it run bad. I'm wondering if somehow tightening it binds the distributor. Perhaps this somehow has lead to the drive on the dist to shear and become out of time.
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Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 10:28am
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Years ago I had a friend with a 304 in a Gremlin that was hard to start and took about ten seconds with foot to floor to get a few revs out of it. It hadn't had a tune up for so long that the points were no longer opening. Changing the cap, rotor, points and condenser as well as advancing the timing a whole lot really brought the engine to life. What does the spark look like from the coil wire if you pull it out of the distributor cap and hold it close to ground while cranking? |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 3:07pm
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i figured the reason the gasket was an issue was because it was grounding out once i fully tightened it down.. so once i made the new one all was well for a couple days. |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 3:13pm
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Also vinny i know for a fact that the points are opening and closing. I looked to see what the spark was like. at first it looked weak. then after testing the resistance loads of the primary and secondary ignition checked out i looked at at the spark again and seemed fine.. i could actually hear it "snap" Im afraid the dizzy is grounding somewhere it shouldn't be. or its the timing chain. which i haven't looked at yet..
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Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 3:33pm
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Do you know your dwell for sure? Also, the dizz shaft bushings could be worn out causing dwell to vary. Did u try as Farna said to crank while varying dizz ever so little both directions? ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/19/2012 at 8:48pm
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yes i did try what farna said. still no dice. the bushings seem fine so i would think the dwell shouldn't vary. i just now pulled the dizzy again the check continuity from the condenser wire to the rest of the dizzy and all checked out fine. points open.. no continuity, points closed there was continuity. so now im checking the wiring.. the coil shows continuity across the + and - now what i don't know for sure and im going to look at the service manual right after i post this. but the wire coming in to the coil + shows continuity to ground and not power (12v on the batt.) with both the key on and the key off.. |
Posted By: vinny
Date Posted: Apr/19/2012 at 10:41pm
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The next logical step would be to run a jumper from the battery to the + on the coil and try starting. That would have to be temporary but should work for trouble shooting. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/20/2012 at 9:56am
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Disconnect the existing + wire before jumping!! Sounds like you found the problem though, the resistance wire has probably fried. Rather than cut the wire harness apart to find it (the resistance wire is usually around 2' or wire folded up and wrapped in the harness -- resistance is so many ohms per inch) you can just run a wire from the switch (I'd disconnect the existing wire from the switch just in case) through a ballast resistor to the coil. If you're running an electronic ignition you don't need the resistance wire or ballast resistor. Though a Pertronix Ignitor I and II will work with the ballast resistor (III requires a full 12V), they don't have to have it and will work fine off a full 12V all the time.
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/20/2012 at 11:58am
| Hum... That makes sense! Because even though my coil checks out to be okay. When I disconnect the condenser wire and jump the negative post on the coil to ground.. (imitating the points to see if the coil is throwing spark) its either super super weak or no spark at all.. I'll have to check that wire when I get home! |
Posted By: Rambo
Date Posted: Apr/23/2012 at 8:36pm
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well replaced the wire from ignition switch to the coil +. and still it just backfires up through the distributor. i thought maybe its the ign switch it self. so i just jumped the coil + to the battery. and still nothing. i replaced the coil it self even though it tested out just fine and still nothing. i checked to see if the plugs are actually sparking by rotating the dizzy with the back and forth and there is good spark. so i tested my spark plug wires to make sure the resistance was in check. two of them were a little goofy so i bought all new ones. still the same problem. im really thinking it the timing chain... so ill probably check that out here after summer. phoenix is already 100+ degrees and without AC thats a little to warm for my liking. i appreciate all your guys input! Thanks again! |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/24/2012 at 9:16am
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Rotate it around until the TDC mark is at the pointer on the balancer. Pull the #1 spark plug and probe in with a screwdriver to see if the piston is at the top. If it's close but not at the top the timing chain has jumped. If it's not close at all rotate the crank one full revolution and check again. The balancer could be off, but more than likely it will be the timing chain due to the problems you're having. While you're doing this you can pull the dizzy cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If you're on compression stroke it should be pointing at/near #1 plug tower, 180 out should be opposite. Mark/note where #1 is before removing the cap. You can also try moving the distributor while cranking to see if that helps. If you set timing by the marks and the balancer has slipped you can have problems too. ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/24/2012 at 2:37pm
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Farna, we think alike because i was gonna put the same thing about finding TDC and making sure piston was at top. But then I thought about it, TDC would still be ok and not be thrown off by tim chain. Im thinking of no real easy way to see if tim chain has jumped. Cylinder pressure that is unusual for your car (hopefully you know its norm) can tell the tale. It can go up or down with repeatability in all cyl with a jumped chain. ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/24/2012 at 7:46pm
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But TDC along with the rotor position will tell if the timing chain has jumped! If you have it at TDC on compression stroke and the rotor isn't very near #1 sparker tower on the cap...
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/24/2012 at 8:26pm
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Right on....most amc's are still stock with stock position dizzers so that works in all those cases. ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 6:24am
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hey guys , for the last month my 232 has had the same type of symptons , its starts easy ,runs fine then starts to run rough, missing etc after say 2minutes .the once warmed up clears itself till the next mornin,or if the car has coooled right down ..... then it will do the same again. this is wot i have done ....checked for vacumn leaks on the manifold, replaced carby base plate +gasket, cleaned carby out , checked the vacumn wipers, checked the fuel lines/filter, checked removed fuel pump, everything still check s out fine , but car still runs like a dog , replaced points/plugs/ removed dizzy as was not advancing timing enough , checked vacumn advanced unit ....replaced pvp valve/air cleaner/ ..car still runs ok, but will miss and fart starve for fuel etc....so i removed all the useless smog pump set up ....no change...., i pulled apart the the auto choke unit , no change , checked float level , put another set of points in it , removed rocker cover and inspected while running if the lifters are "pumpin up " and not leakin down , all are running correctly ....all fine ......so after around 3weeks of chasin this problem tonight i think i have found the problem .....a dodgey /crap/faulty /sic......coil.. ..bloody mongral!!!! the car now runs like a clock......everything is fine touch wood ...
------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: huddy1955
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 6:55am
Hmmmm..... Touch wood. Good luck with the coil. I've got a car trailer if you need it mate . I may need a 66 parts car soon ------------- 1955 Hudson Hornet Custom 1963 Rambler Classic 660 wagon 1969 AMX 343 auto NO# 09 of 24 1973 Rambler Matador Wagon 360 1985 Jeep J20 pick up 360 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic plenty of parts cars |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 7:02am
i fixed the heater  ......and i didnt use the heater tap i bought off you today......bloody ramblers------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: PrerunnerScout
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 10:01am
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Not sure if you've already done this but- My fathers Ramcharger showed your same initial symptoms a while back so I replaced the fuel pump and after 2 weeks same problem- The cheap new fuel pump was DEFECTIVE- Replaced it w/a better quality one and has had no problems since. ------------- 73' 2wd Scout halfcab |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 1:18pm
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Well, at least you know everything else is in good shape for the next few years!!
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 1:24pm
But then, that was about Rambos car...so rambo are you gonna try a coil.------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 4:26pm
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We say "knock on wood" over here. I think you caught a few Americans off guard when you said "touch wood".... they may have had other thoughts and wondered about you...
------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 7:13pm
...you guys are funny!! ha ha !..its not my fault you guys dont understand proper english.....so i tookout the rambler this morning , and stuff me , it did it again, im REALLY gettin #%@# off ! any ideas guys????ps , this mornin i just changed the condensor , again , and put a new dizzy cap ,at this rate that 350 chev /turbo 400 i have may look really good in the engine bay ...... ps ..serious im thinkin of replacing the lifters ,wot do you think??? ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: May/03/2012 at 3:50am
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Wow, you must e ready to run it off a bloody cliff. Have you checked manifold bolts? or sprayed carb cleaner looking for vac leaks? ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: May/03/2012 at 4:15am
yep im over it , BUT i will not let no bloody rambler engine beat me !!!!!!, been on it just now, yep i tripled checked everything , even 'phoned a freind' for advice....do i put in the s/b chevy ...nup , the car it way to original...(and you guys would ex-communicate me).......well i just had it running with no rocker cover ,sum crazy noise on no.1 cylinder , soundss like the second lifter has been chewin nails.. ..and a high piched noise like when ya run ya fingers do a chalk board....(so you catch me drift it sounds like dog pooh!).i thin k its time to take the head off, S.O.B, ol cars are supposed to be relaxing .....f/me.... all this work on a 6clyinder.........oh well lucky i have 5 other fully registered cars to drive ....................the triolgy continuesbloody ramblers! ..................never had this problem with my "other " quality made in usa cars(dodge+chev) ....ps ...................................................................bloody ramblers ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: May/03/2012 at 7:22am
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NEWS FLASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! POSTIVE NEWS!!!!!!! .......................................................... F/ME..... there is a godOK , so tonight the car is running like a dog once it warms up , and now the lifhters are rattle so so bad.....now this sounds crazy ....but ....after i just got the car i changed as per usual , plugs ,oil/filter, points , car ran great then go worse, the alternator died ..i replaced it , but the car started to run like a ol junk yard dog.....only once it warmed up , backfiring etc....if i turned the car off when hot ,it would start up straight away , run perfect for a couple of minitues the splutter and backfire....so this is wot i did check for vacumn leaks on manifold titghted it /tested /tightend again checked /pulled off carby ,changed base gasket as was a bit dodgey .... checked vacumn wipers replaced petrol pump- filter replaced dizzy cap /leads/coil /capositor replaced /removed smog pump set up , installed new air cleaner set up BUT car still runs like a pig ........ .so i then removed cleaned rocker gear as seemed to have bugger all oil supply , thus maybe lifters not workin properly???, ..........car is now running bad only when warm........check cam lift etc , valve gear still noisey and car backfiring /poping .. .......burnt valve?????,,last resort...,off with the head i think ..............as per last post ..................LATTER TONIGHT , my brother comes over and when go threw everything from step one .....gunna be a long night ....everything is looking normal as the car is still running bad bad bad ,.......we get to the dizzy new cap /leads etc and BUGGER ME the points look like they have been NUKED! like the plastic is melted! dead /finished /el caputto.....and they are only 1 week old  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, hello hello ,hello ......we threw in a new set of points , the car now runns PERFECT!!!! BUT WHY ARE THE POINTS MELTING????? that is my question??? .....so we havent worked this out properly as our multi meter is at my brothers car yard ....a job for the next day ....Have you got a idea or wot to look for??? im thinkin something is weird as problems only started to happen after i changed the orignial motorall a alternator .as it stopped chargin......mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmWe now attack the noisey rocker gear , i t is not gettin enough oil .....plenty of oil pressure , i clean ed the rocker gear already and cleaned the oil gallery etc on the second rocker bolt at the back, i didnt do the head bolt as i dont have a lathe and was intending todo it at my mates place who has a lathe ......well off came the 3rd rear head bolt , and we thought "well %#$^ it" straight on the bench grinder , and grinded a big chunk off the sides , ........cleaned the bolt , sprayed carby cleaner down the bolt hole +oil passage ...used a bit of fence wire , more carby cleaner......threw the head bolt back on ...and stuff me mate , there is more "texas tea " coming out of the oil gallery than ol "jed clampets backyard".........no more rocker noise /gone .......unbelieveable ......im excited ...bloody ramblers !!!! ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: May/03/2012 at 10:28am
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Make sure your coil wire polarity is correct...even if thats wrong, that still shouldnt burn up points that fast. It sounds like a combination of chines points and no resistor wire. I havent put in points yet that were chinese, but my god, i know the quality has gone down on the point set i last bought 8 years ago and they probabably wer still american. It sounds like a straight 12-14.7 volts is going to points when in running mode. To check, you could prevent starter from turning by taking big wire off starter, connect VOM to coil and activate ign switch and look for the full 12 v during full key stroke, then less volts at run mode. Fix that bloody thing...hey, how much for 89 octane down under? ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: May/03/2012 at 5:12pm
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thanks mate ! will check all that out ,probably tonight , the points i bought recently are ol stock from the 60's bought about 20sets ....lucky hey,, from good ol ebay.........petrol down here is about $1.49 a litre for "E10" which has ethno in it , it is crap /rubbish ..never use it , preminum 98 octane i bought one the weekend for my 60'dodge cost me $1.64 per litre.......there are about 4ltrs to 1 gallon, so you get the drift..im lucky my daily cars run on lpg which is only about 77cents per ltr bloody ramblers ......yeh there ok ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: May/05/2012 at 7:58am
tonight i have success  , after replacing just about everthang..on the motor ..it looks like the culprit was the wrong coil fitted , a coil with a built in restitor was fitted and "wammo" perfect idling car , that now can do 70mph in second gear with out to much problems ......the motor purrrrrsss , is resonsponsive , and is quite i really cannot believe it , its almost like i changed the motor.....all because of a wrong coil......jezzzz it was really frustrating at times but thanks to everyone that helped me with clues/ideas wot to look for the rambler is all sorted and on the up side of things everything on the motor has been replaced so the car should give me now truble free cruizin!bloody coils ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |
Posted By: huddy1955
Date Posted: May/05/2012 at 8:38am
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Bloody Ramblers ------------- 1955 Hudson Hornet Custom 1963 Rambler Classic 660 wagon 1969 AMX 343 auto NO# 09 of 24 1973 Rambler Matador Wagon 360 1985 Jeep J20 pick up 360 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic plenty of parts cars |
Posted By: farna
Date Posted: May/05/2012 at 9:03am
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Well, it's not just Ramblers! Any car will run like crap until it's got the right parts. The coil is easy to miss. GM used internal resistor coils for the most part, Ford and Chrysler an external ballast resistor. AMC used either Ford or GM based electrics, depending on year/model/engine. Just keep them all the same and you're good! I know there are a few exceptions, like the Prestolite electronic ignition used in the late 70s, and there are exceptions with the GM/Ford internal/external resistors, but in general... just watch out for the exceptions! Unless you're just fascinated by points I'd replace those buggers with a Pertronix unit. No more burned points, more consistent fire, and you can run a hotter coil and a little more plug gap. Plugs will last longer and you'll get 1-2 mpg better on average. You'll also have more consistent power as the electronic unit doesn't wear/burn over time and have to be tuned every few months (depending on how much you drive it). You won't get more power than you will with fresh points just set correctly, but 2500 miles later you'll still have that power, whereas with points you may lose 5-15 hp (depends on how much they wear). Not real noticeable since the loss is gradual, but that extra mpg will help in the long run, and that little extra power might... ------------- Frank Swygert |
Posted By: Thikstik
Date Posted: May/05/2012 at 1:54pm
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Glad to hear it. Hopefully the blood will wash off ok. ------------- 75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258, 264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor! AC/PS/PDB. 72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC. |
Posted By: aussie rambler
Date Posted: May/05/2012 at 8:48pm
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Well today i have done sum cruizin, went to 2 swaps meets with the 66, NO PROBLEMS!!! it drives so nice espeicilly on the freeway ,im happy, still cant believe one wrong coil gave me so much greif! bloody ramblers ------------- bloody mongral bastard ramblers....lol.. |